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Magna Via Francigena - April 2024
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[QUOTE="jungleboy, post: 1247716, member: 77691"] [B]Day 2: Santa Cristina Gela to Corleone — 24km[/B] Santa Cristina Gela is sleepy when I leave this morning, and it should be, because it’s 7am on a Sunday. But though the village hasn’t woken up yet, the spirit of the camino still manifests itself in the form of several pieces of MVF-themed street art around town that serve to animate a tired pilgrim trying to find his camino rhythm. [ATTACH type="full" alt="IMG_7417.jpeg"]168373[/ATTACH] It’s cloudy this morning, and the sun comes and goes. When it’s out, the light is soft, as is the trail underfoot — a marked contrast on both fronts from yesterday’s relentless sunshine and asphalt. The urban setting is gone now, replaced by rural scenery that seemingly popped up overnight. But it’s not vineyards and orange groves and the stuff of your Sicilian dreams; instead it’s a rugged landscape of boulders and pine trees and wildflowers. Oh, the wildflowers! They light up the landscape in yellows and purples and that’s the biggest constant of this stage. Sometimes I have to hack my way through them with my hiking poles just to create a path and that makes it feel like an adventure reminiscent of my favourite pilgrimage trail, the Caminho Nascente in Portugal. [ATTACH type="full" alt="IMG_7456.jpeg"]168372[/ATTACH] There are pilgrims today (I count 11), but no villages, food or water. I eat snacks from my pack for breakfast, second breakfast and lunch, and I’m glad I’m carrying two litres of water instead of my usual one litre, because by late morning the sun is out for good and it’s a shadeless walk from then on. The trail passes two rocky massifs and they’re the visual highlight of the day, along with the neverending flowers. Then the flat paths that have characterised the stage disappear and it’s down, up and down again as I gingerly approach my destination. [ATTACH type="full" alt="IMG_7454.jpeg"]168371[/ATTACH] And just when I think I’m in the middle of nowhere, looking at wildflowers and craggy mountains in an idyllic rural setting, having not seen a village all day and rather unlikely to stumble onto the town that produced ‘the most violent and ruthless group ever to take control of the Mafia’ (per Wikipedia), that town suddenly appears in front of me: Corleone. … Some practicalities: Trail: mostly dirt today, at a guess 80 per cent. Long trousers are a good idea because otherwise your lower legs will get scratched on a particular stretch early on (the hacking part). Shortcut: both the tracks I’m using and the signage direct pilgrims towards a silly-looking extended detour soon after the sanctuary. I tried to see if I could bypass it but there is a barbed-wire fence on the other side of the main road, so I gave it up and went the long way around. But when I came back to that area I saw that there is a gap in the fence just before the road barricade so it’s totally possible to skip this detour and save 15-20 minutes. Follow my green lines here: [ATTACH type="full" alt="IMG_7426.jpeg"]168370[/ATTACH] Food: none. There is supposed to be food (restaurant?) at the sanctuary about halfway in, but it seemed all closed today, possibly because it’s Sunday, or because I was there too early (around 11:30). There’s not really a decent store that I found in SCG either, so getting extra supplies in Palermo/Monreale/Altofonte would be a good idea. Water: no water either though the same place at the sanctuary would have some if open. Before that, at 7km, Maps.me has a fountain symbol but it’s actually a fairly still creek with bugs in it. To be safe, carrying 2L is a good idea; I drank about 1.5L. Data network: there was no data for me for a fair bit of the stage (I have Fastweb), especially the first half. Worth keeping in mind if you’re relying on online tracks. Accommodation: I’m at Chiaro di Luna in Corleone, another B&B type place that I picked from the list on the official website. €30 for a single, nicer than yesterday. [/QUOTE]
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