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Looking for advice about Camino Le Puy

Andarin

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Past:A few
Next: From Ourense to Fisterra
Hi everyone

I've always considered to make the camino starting in Le Puy En Velay.It was like a distant challenge but i was visiting southern France a few weeks ago and since that moment i am asking myself: Why not this year?

I am a Camino veteran but when i check things about Camino Le Puy i feel like a rookie again

Planning my caminos i've always tried to look for a moment in the year with a good balance between to be crowded or go alone...In Spain most of times i choose october : there is enough people but not too much and most are foreigners,something i love...

I would start in Le Puy in september the 3rd or maybe 10th,but i dont really know what to expect.
What i will find ? Can you help me ? Maybe too much people?Most french people or foreigners?Most retired people?
My next(and last this year)chance would be in october 1 st,what do you think? It there will be too late? Many albergues closed?

Thanks in advance,dear pilgrims
 
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Sounds like fun. Keep an eye on the route as it is also a GR hikers route for weekend ramblers so for no reason whatsoever the 'Camino' will suddenly climb to a high ridge, go along the top for a bit, and then come back down again ... moment I realised this I paid attention and ignored those weird detours.

I have always found the French very friendly and civilised - a joy to walk through their country - and restaurants, even tiny ones in villages, post their menus outside so you can clearly see what you get and what you pay (always a cheap option on offer) ... most of the small places are family owned and in France if your cuisine is rubbish you close.
Once you get past Moissac you have the joy in one small town of passing the Hotel D'Bastard
and of course, you go through the pleasant town of Condom (huge comfy council run refugio there in an 18thC building) - always a good place to send a postcard home saying that you are practising safe walking .
and is a great run up to the Pyrenees ... you will be so fit and relaxed that you will just stroll over the mountain, kissing your hand at exhausted and unfit first day pilgrims as you pass - so what's not to like??

Buen Camino!!
 
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I walked the route in august- october.
Some things to consider :
It is not crowded, but surely not a "lonely" camino. The great majority of walkers are French. (For instance in the convent of Conques I was the only non French person out of about 80 persons) If you don't speak French this might be a problem, especially at common meals. The common language will of cause be French, not English. In individual contacts this is a smaller problem, while people then will do their best to find a common language.
The Le Puy Route is a GR route and is part of the network of the Grandes Randonnees. For many French walkers it is " one out of many" possible treks. For many non French walkers this route is part of the Camino.
There are some alberguestyle accomodationd, most people will stay in guesthouses with "demi pension" though. This will be a little bit more expensive, but the food at the common meals generally is better than a pilgrims menu. You will have to reserve a bed if you want to stay with demi-pension, so the host will know for how many people he will have to prepare food. You will find information about accomodatons, routes ans so in The Miam Miam Dodo guide which is well known. There exists a digital and a paper version ( it is in French though) i had the paper guide, but gave it away after a week because It was not very useful to me while walking. The markings on the route were very good, all the information I needed regarding accomodations was easily available on the Gronze website.
Lastly but perhaps most important it is a beautifull route. The stretch between Le Puy and Conques is the hardest but also the most beautifull. Be sure to start in Le Puy at the pilgrims mass, it is a special moment when the gates are opened ( even for a non-religious person like me)
If you decide to walk this route consider taking the alternative route through the Cleveleys, it is beautifull with less people
 
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September is a very busy month on the Le Puy, especially the first week. Try to start mid-week if you can, to miss the weekend surge. Lodgings will start to close for the season in mid-October, and most will close 1 Nov (but not all). About 85% of the walkers are French; everyone else will speak some English and the hosts will try to seat those of you together at dinner.
 
Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
David said:
ou have the joy in one small town of passing the Hotel D'Bastard
Click to expand...
Yes, it's in beautiful Lectoure - and right around the corner from where we live.

But, back to you @Andarin I think the Le Puy is a glorious path. I walked the path in 2014 and now live on the Way here in Lectoure. But a forum member who knows more than most about the Le Puy Way is @BlackRocker57 She is on the path right now for the XXth time - and I'm confident she'll chime in when she can.

Also forum member @Dave has written the English Language Cicerone Guide, published last year. I have it on my kindle and will be referring to it next week when my husband and I take a short walk from Figeac to Cahors on the Cele Variant. Merci @Dave
 
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This is an exceptional year--the trails are extremely crowded, and from Le Puy to Conques it is going to be crowded the whole month of September. Some walkers never go beyond Conques as it is a destination in itself. Although there are more gîtes than in the past available, there are fewer of them than in Spain, and fill up quickly as most can only accommodate 8-12 people. Note that September can also be hot, particularly the further south you get, although the weather can be spectacular. In October, expect more rain and note that the seasonal gîtes d'étape and some services [Malle Postale, Compostel'bus, some restaurants] close for the season starting the first week, but certainly by the second week ...
 
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I walked from Le Puy to Conques starting October 1, 2018 and saw few pilgrims on the trail but always a convivial, mostly French-speaking, group at dinner in the auberges. I reserved the auberges ahead and always had a great meal and decent place to stay. It got a little chilly in the mornings toward mid-Oct but the autumnal colors were a treat.
I picked up where I left off in Conques in mid-Sept 2021 and walked just past Moissac. That stretch is normally much less travelled past Conques, but maybe since it was post-covid, more people were out and doing the entire Le Puy-Santiago. I got a LOT of rain this last time but of course one can’t predict.
 
If it's helpful, I wrote up an introductory guide to the Le Puy route after my wife and I walked it in September - October, 2019. You can find it in the resources section, and here's a link:
 
I hiked from Le Puy on the Camino to Figeac, (mid-July) in undulating countryside, very easy to do really. It was fairly busy but I did meet a lot of nice people. Once in Figeac, I turned off into the Dordogne so I have no idea what the Camio walk is like from there to St Jen Pied du Port.
 
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Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
Couldn’t resist clicking the link Andy. Loved reading your guide. Your thoughtful comments and comparisons resonate. And I can ‘feel the love’

I recall when I was embarking on the Le Puy Way in April 2014 - after two times walking the Frances - I had a nagging concern that it would be different and I wouldn’t like it. What was I doing here - it’s not Spain! Well, it wasn’t Spain and it was different - and after a few days I leant into that - and I absolutely loved it. A glorious path and a wonderful experience.

@Andarin - I’d encourage anyone thinking of the Le Puy Way to take the time to read and enjoy the guide @andycohn has prepared.
 
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To follow on from the great introductory guide from @andycohn - some comments I made on another thread that may be of interest:


‘The Le Puy Way will be different to walking in Spain, as I'm sure you know. And even though it's very popular these days, you will meet more French people than any other nationality.

One thing you may read here on the forum is that many French people are 'just hiking for a week or two'. In fact, many French people you will meet on the Le Puy Way will be undertaking the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela over many years. They may leave from their home or from one of the 'starting points' of the major French routes or somewhere in between - and walk as much time as is available to them each year, given work or family commitments or financial considerations. The next year they recommence where they left off. I have met many French pilgrims doing just that. Their pilgrimage may take them 10 years. Imagine their joy and satisfaction on arrival after such a long commitment.

Also the majority I have met while walking in France refer to 'le chemin de saint-jacques or le chemin de saint-jacques de compostelle' rather than the individual route they are walking.’

Most of these ‘hikers’ are as much pilgrims as those you will meet on the Spanish Caminos. They are making their way to Santiago de Compostela. But they are not in a hurry.
 
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Hi Jenny, Thanks so much! What a great walk it is. Different from the Spanish caminos, but vive la difference!
 
Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I second the choice to take the CELE Variant from Figeac. I loved it! I stayed an extra day in Figeac and took the 30 min train ride ( plus 4 km walk from train station ) to ROCAMADOR. Well worth it.
 
Indeed! I was about to make this point. Perhaps that's the difference between being on the Chemin with a decent command of French and not. I took the Rocamadour varient, and those five-ish days was the only time I heard people referred to as hikers, and where "Bon Chemin" became less used, but otherwise, the French on Le Puy are most definitely pilgrims and see themselves as such - even if they are going a week at a time.

I would also echo the recommendation to go to the 7:00 Mass in Le Puy, even if it means you have to return to your gite for breakfast. An unforgettable experience.

Finally, to the comment "There are some alberguestyle accomodationd, most people will stay in guesthouses with "demi pension" though" I have no idea what the poster is on about. There is a very established system of gîtes and gîtes d'étape (which require the ability to use the kitchen) along the route, many of them are dorm-type of accommodations, but you won't find dorms of 100+ beds, that's for sure. Typically a four-course meal, your bed for the night and the petit-déjeuner cost 37 euro, no idea how that compares to Spain. One thing I heard that underscores the food comparison is that pilgrims lose weight on the Camino but gain weight on the Chemin . . .

Bon Chemin!
 
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The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Oui @Smash123 . On another thread requesting information about accommodation on the Le Puy way, I wrote this, which may also be of interest to the OP.

... many gites and chambre d'hotes offer demi-pension, and almost always so when in small villages or rural areas where other options for eating are limited. The wonderful thing is that even staying in private rooms you will be able to enjoy communal meals. And usually the food is of a high standard. Booking ahead is recommended - even if the day before - so that your hosts know you are coming and whether or not you will take demi pension. (edited to add: by booking ahead, I really just mean telephoning in advance.)

Regarding gites - There are private gites and gites communale - the latter is equivalent of municipal albergue in Spain. Another common feature of gites on the French caminos is that that they are smaller - i.e. fewer beds overall and fewer beds per room - and bunk beds are not as common as in Spain.

@andycohn also writes about this in his excellent introductory guide to the Le Puy Way, referenced at #11 above.
 
Prices in France are above prices in Spain.
They are some huge dormitories that should avoided by people who have difficulties to sleep, namely Ste Foy in Conques.
 
Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Camino Chrissy said:
Wow, so many fantastic replies! I too, absolutely loved the Le Puy GR/Camino route, including the awesome Cele Valley variant and walked as far as Auvillar.
Click to expand...
Oh Chrissy - hope you can come back one day. We are living in Lectoure, just a couple of stages on from Auvillar. Coincidentally, we are heading to Figeac tomorrow to walk to Cahors via the Cele! Excited!
 
My only real hassle with finding a bed on the Le Puy was in Oct 2012 when groups of families were also walking and taking up all the beds in the gîtes. I’d wander off-piste to alternate accommodations. I never called ahead, but as a solo walker, the places with demi-pension could easily feed me as one more person didn’t make much difference, even if dinner was simple. (I’d likely whatsapp them if I was doing it now.)

The Miam Miam Dodo guidebook’s maps were helpful for noticing work-arounds when the GR65 was meandering to a scenic spot but following a country road might knock off several km.

Miam Miam Dodo showed every relevant service within 5km of the chemin. It is in map form, with a legend. The legend is easy enough to follow (I think the multi-language translation was in the book).

Bon chemin!
 
I walked this route in May 2022 to Moissac, and then in May 2023 from Moissac to SJPP. I think the reason it is called the GR65 is because you have to be at least 65 years old to walk it ... (yes I more than qualify ) A few confirmations: French is the most common language; the French are the most populous pilgrims on the route; we found that since Covid restrictions have eased all pilgrimage routes have become far more popular, advanced reservations were very helpful and many times I found myself the only non-European pilgrim at a gîte ... as a matter of fact I was 'christened' with a new name ... "Beel de Canadá"; the restaurant food is fabulous; the locals are very kind and helpful; do some research because a few stages are quite difficult. Bon Chemin!
 
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When I walked the Le Puy there were a handful of French Canadians walking, and it was their native language. We didn't run into any English speaking countries represented. I was glad I had my two Camino girlfriends with me for company.
 
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Camino Preparation Guide
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Donny Camino said:
Nice info here...as my wife and I will begin the full Le Puy walk next week to Saint Jean PP.
Click to expand...
Bon chemin, Donny to you and your wife. Feel free to drop me a PM when you are close by Lectoure. We've been known to enjoy a coffee or an apero with pilgrims passing this way (the coffee) or stopping here (the apero).
 
Pelerina said:
Bon chemin, Donny to you and your wife. Feel free to drop me a PM when you are close by Lectoure. We've been known to enjoy a coffee or an apero with pilgrims passing this way (the coffee) or stopping here (the apero).
Click to expand...
Fantastic. Our itinerary has us going through Lectoure on July 28. Flying to Paris from Canada tomorrow, then down to Le Puy later next week. Maybe we will see you!
 
Donny Camino said:
Fantastic. Our itinerary has us going through Lectoure on July 28. Flying to Paris from Canada tomorrow, then down to Le Puy later next week. Maybe we will see you!
Click to expand...
Oh, we will be in Bordeaux that weekend with friends visiting from Australia but if it turns out you're a few days later ... and do feel free to be in touch if we may be able to help with anything. It's a wonderful path. Bon chemin.
 
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I am three days away from sjpdp now in Lichos. Walking solo. Started in Le Puy on May 13. May was very busy. I had booked the first 8 days two months in advance, but finding the gites before conques was very difficult. After Conques, it got easier, and after Cahors, even easier.

In May it was mostly French people doing a week or two as many have said. after May, the French percentage has gone down and it's an international crowd. French is still often the primary language at dinner, but not always.

I speak mostly survival French. I can make reservations, get food, find the toilet, but am mostly useless at dinner conversation. It's sometimes isolating. Especially after Cahors, I don't see a lot of people on the trail, and even if I do, we don't often get past "bonjour".

that said, people have been very nice, pilgrims and locals. I've thoroughly enjoyed this trip. My first time in France. Beautiful scenery up to conques, and nice after. It was exciting to see the Pyrenees for the first time, but it looks like I'll be finishing with clouds.
 
A lot, mostly French people when I walked March April this year. Many were retirees. You’ll have no problems at all with gites, and every night is a communal meal. I can’t recommend it enough, it was a beautiful Way
 
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Yes! The Le Puy route is everything!
Yes to the morning Pilgrims Mass before departure (arrive in town early for some local tourism, too). Arriving in SJPdP by foot also filled me with joy. And the evening mass in SJPdP was worth the meditation time (I don’t speak French).

I walked 5 years ago and booked ahead. I used Tourist Info offices to help me call for reservations, or occasionally a gite owner would call ahead for me.

The Camino Podcast recently uploaded a series of 10 remarkable podcasts to review the Le Puy Camino, including historical and cultural nice-to-knows. Exceptionally well done @Dave
 
Donny Camino said:
Nice info here...as my wife and I will begin the full Le Puy walk next week to Saint Jean PP.
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FYI, most pilgrims doing "the full Le Puy" end in Roncesvalles. I didn't know when I started, and planned to end in SJPdP, and I am so glad I had another day to cross the Pyrenees - it was a spectacular leg, and a great way to finish the journey.
 
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We’re 2 Canadian women (retirees) starting from Le Puy Sept 7th (arrive Sept 3 and planning to enjoy Le Puy first). I’ve prebooked us accommodation until Conques with BF and dinner as much as possible as it’s apparently a busy time for French retirees to walk this part of the GR65. We’re also doing the Gronze 9 stages in 12 days to enjoy our Camino and survive the climbs and descents. After Conques we’ll book ahead a couple of days as needed per busyness of the Camino thereafter.
 
Richmond Gardner said:
Auto correct is ruthless…apparently thinking that Lancashire is along the Le Puy route!
Click to expand...
A priest, a rabbit, and a minister were walking the Le Puy route, when they stopped in at a bar. The bartender asks the rabbit, "What'll you have?" The rabbit answers, "I don't know, I'm only here because of Auto-Correct."
 
à propos «the Cleveleys», perchance do you mean the «vallée du Célé»?? aka GR651 Voie du Célé from Figeac to Cahors?? the Célé valley variante
 
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Bon chemin et bonne continuation you’re sure to love it and the weather is looking good
 
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