Look back to Camino 2005

[alhartman]

Healthy age 62; 31 days SjPdP to SdC (skipped some kilometres from injuries of walking partner)

• Only guidebooks were Alison Raju and John Brierly
• Main navigation guide was SJpdP amis handout in SJpdP—great spreadsheet
• No cell phones. No wifi
• Only 12 kodak instamatic photos
• Used locutorio or 1eu kiosks in albergues for unreliable email. 8 total emails home to family.
• No pack forwarding.
• No taxis -hitchhiked, trains and buses when stuck
• No reservations; no booking.com
• No vegetarian options
• No expensive SLR seen; No drones
• Some Cold showers if late
• Bed cost 5, pilgrim dinner 6, café 1
• Albergues had well stocked kitchens—lots of communal self catering

Yes, there was a bed race even then!!

Camino Legends and other Memorable experiences

• Maribel Roncal—Cizur Menor
• Eunate was a refuge
• Jesus Jato, Villafranca, Av Fenix Quemada, snorers room, 3 tier bunks
• Marcelino Lobato—park after Logrono permanent pilgrim with photos all along the route
• Jose Maria Alonso San Juan Ortega—garlic soup
• Castrojeriz San Estaban-greeted at door and pack carried to nice mattress on floor—best greeting on the Camino
• Eduardo Merino—Boadilla As a Madrid music graduate, he practiced flute at our breakfast.
• Tomas Martinez—Manjarin Templar
• Vega de Valcarce Brazilian albergue and party house.
• Fonfria crepe extortion lady—I paid 2 eu for a offered crepe!!
• Samos a fantastic surprise—on the alternate route
• Could touch the Jesse Tree
• Could bump heads with St James to honor Maestro Mateo
• First thrill of the Singing Nun and botafumeiro.

I have gone nostalgic, since I doubt I will have another camino in my future. But I have 197 nights on the Frances and 347 total on all French and Spanish routes. And Camino was a consolation prize for a failed PCT—and one of the best things that ever happened in my early old age.

So many changes in nearly 20 years, but I have loved it all. I hope walking can bring as much joy to all the other forum members as it has for me.

 

[Sheesh]

Awwh, thanks so much for posting this Al. This brings back some very fond memories of my first time, though I was a few years behind you in 2009. I took a Confraternity guide that first time out, no maps. But ironically it was my favourite guide of all. Thanks again for this trip down memory lane.

 

[Mournes]

Fond memories for me too.Sept 2006 first camino St Jean to Santiago.Sleeping in the old albergue in Roncesvalles 100 pilgrims in the dormitory.Pinch points for us Hontanas slept on mattress on floor in house next door to the albergue and old albergue in O'Cebreiro slept on chair.Only stayed in municipal and donativos.Unforgettable experience .Big thank you to all.

 

[David Tallan]

Only guidebooks were Alison Raju and John Brierly

Going back a little further, this may be the only English-language guidebook from 1990.

That wasn't out yet for my first Camino in 1989, though. We had to rely on the long red one in Spanish by Don Elias and his team.

 

[Bradypus]

That wasn't out yet for my first Camino in 1989, though. We had to rely on the long red one in Spanish by Don Elias and his team.

I used Don Elias's red guide too in 1990. And a typescript supplement in English from the CSJ. I gave away my 1990 copy but they kindly sent me a free copy of the 1991 guide after I wrote a letter with a few observations for the update once I got back to the UK.

 

[lt56ny]

Healthy age 62; 31 days SjPdP to SdC (skipped some kilometres from injuries of walking partner)

That wasn't out yet for my first Camino in 1989, though. We had to rely on the long red one in Spanish by Don Elias and his team.

I used Don Elias's red guide too in 1990. And a typescript supplement in English from the CSJ. I gave away my 1990 copy but they kindly sent me a free copy of the 1991 guide after I wrote a letter with a few observations for the update once I got back to the UK.

I love it when the pilgrims like yourself who "were trailblazers of the modern camino" (or however you want to phrase it) share your memories and experiences from years back. The changes that have occured. I walked my first camino 11 years ago and didn't have any phone and then my second from Le Puy to Santiago with a flip phone that was only used by Gite owners to make a reservation for me. Did have the Brierley guide the first camino but the second was a almost completely useless Michelin guide. But compared to you early pilgrims I had all the modern conveniences. Hope you all share more of your early camino experiences with us in the future. Thanks

 

[Lydia Gillen]

I started my first Camino in Roncesvalles 2007. I have been on the Camino practically every year since and have volunteered in the pilgrim office , the Cathedral and with Camino Companions I was afraid in 2007 to start in SJPP as I did not know any French!!!!! I only knew of albergues and hotels. One evening some ladies who come from about 30 miles from my home teased me as I got up from the table to get back before the 10 pm. closure and said "Next time stay somewhere proper". I had no idea what they were talking about I think it was a year or two before I realised that there was a multitude of places priced between albergues and hotels. I never knew where I would be sleeping and was always head down walking as fast as I could.
Now in my 80th year I book private albergues, pensions and the odd hotel and get my rucksack sent ahead, The shear wonder of being able to stand and look at interesting places and things. This year my eldest granddaughter will come too. She will carry her rucksack. I am just so grateful that I have the health and the opportunity to be part of this wonderful pilgrimage.

1

 

[David Tallan]

I love it when the pilgrims like yourself who "were trailblazers of the modern camino" (or however you want to phrase it) share your memories and experiences from years back. The changes that have occured. I walked my first camino 11 years ago and didn't have any phone and then my second from Le Puy to Santiago with a flip phone that was only used by Gite owners to make a reservation for me. Did have the Brierley guide the first camino but the second was a almost completely useless Michelin guide. But compared to you early pilgrims I had all the modern conveniences. Hope you all share more of your early camino experiences with us in the future. Thanks

I was living in Madrid when I went on my first Camino. Like I did before going anywhere in Spain, I headed over to the Tourist Office to see what information they had for people following the Camino de Santiago. I weas handed these two pamphlets:

The one on the left (THE WAY TO SANTIAGO) is from 1977. The one on the right (The Pilgrim's Way to Santiago) was of of more recent vintage from ten years later in 1987.

Here is a sample page spread from the 1977 information:


It's a bit hard to make out, but if you look carefully you can see that they are sending you down the main roads and showing where all the gas stations are. I don't think they are expecting pilgrims to walk.

Ten years later they are a bit more ambiguous, but if you look at the wording, for example in the "From Sahagun to Villafrance del Bierzo" section shown below, you can still see that the assumption is still somewhat present.


Both of these pamphlets are focused on the route as detailed in the Codex Calixtinus (what we tend to think of as the Caminos Frances and Aragones now but which were then just two alternative beginnings to the same Camino, much as the routes from Malaga and Almeria are considered alternative beginnings to the same Camino Mozarabe). But by 1987 they were at least acknowledging that there were other routes, although they didn't share any information about them.

 

[David Tallan]

Looking through my stuff, I also found an IGN (Instituto Geografico Nacional) map of the Camino de Santiago from 1989 Scale 1:600.000. 400 pesetas.

 

[lt56ny]

I was living in Madrid when I went on my first Camino. Like I did before going anywhere in Spain, I headed over to the Tourist Office to see what information they had for people following the Camino de Santiago. I weas handed these two pamphlets:
View attachment 146090
The one on the left (THE WAY TO SANTIAGO) is from 1977. The one on the right (The Pilgrim's Way to Santiago) was of of more recent vintage from ten years later in 1987.

Here is a sample page spread from the 1977 information:
View attachment 146091

It's a bit hard to make out, but if you look carefully you can see that they are sending you down the main roads and showing where all the gas stations are. I don't think they are expecting pilgrims to walk.

Ten years later they are a bit more ambiguous, but if you look at the wording, for example in the "From Sahagun to Villafrance del Bierzo" section shown below, you can still see that the assumption is still somewhat present.
View attachment 146092

Both of these pamphlets are focused on the route as detailed in the Codex Calixtinus (what we tend to think of as the Caminos Frances and Aragones now but which were then just two alternative beginnings to the same Camino, much as the routes from Malaga and Almeria are considered alternative beginnings to the same Camino Mozarabe). But by 1987 they were at least acknowledging that there were other routes, although they didn't share any information about them.

This is wonderful!!!! It was a completely different ball of wax. Makes my concerns seem miniscule today!!!! Thanks so much for sharing.

 

[PilgrimJames]

Healthy age 62; 31 days SjPdP to SdC (skipped some kilometres from injuries of walking partner)

• Only guidebooks were Alison Raju and John Brierly
• Main navigation guide was SJpdP amis handout in SJpdP—great spreadsheet
• No cell phones. No wifi
• Only 12 kodak instamatic photos
• Used locutorio or 1eu kiosks in albergues for unreliable email. 8 total emails home to family.
• No pack forwarding.
• No taxis -hitchhiked, trains and buses when stuck
• No reservations; no booking.com
• No vegetarian options
• No expensive SLR seen; No drones
• Some Cold showers if late
• Bed cost 5, pilgrim dinner 6, café 1
• Albergues had well stocked kitchens—lots of communal self catering

Yes, there was a bed race even then!!

Camino Legends and other Memorable experiences

• Maribel Roncal—Cizur Menor
• Eunate was a refuge
• Jesus Jato, Villafranca, Av Fenix Quemada, snorers room, 3 tier bunks
• Marcelino Lobato—park after Logrono permanent pilgrim with photos all along the route
• Jose Maria Alonso San Juan Ortega—garlic soup
• Castrojeriz San Estaban-greeted at door and pack carried to nice mattress on floor—best greeting on the Camino
• Eduardo Merino—Boadilla As a Madrid music graduate, he practiced flute at our breakfast.
• Tomas Martinez—Manjarin Templar
• Vega de Valcarce Brazilian albergue and party house.
• Fonfria crepe extortion lady—I paid 2 eu for a offered crepe!!
• Samos a fantastic surprise—on the alternate route
• Could touch the Jesse Tree
• Could bump heads with St James to honor Maestro Mateo
• First thrill of the Singing Nun and botafumeiro.

I have gone nostalgic, since I doubt I will have another camino in my future. But I have 197 nights on the Frances and 347 total on all French and Spanish routes. And Camino was a consolation prize for a failed PCT—and one of the best things that ever happened in my early old age.

So many changes in nearly 20 years, but I have loved it all. I hope walking can bring as much joy to all the other forum members as it has for me.

Thanks for this wonderful post. I was still dreaming about doing my first Camino while you enjoyed yours. I was a little older to start but can relate so much with your experience. Your point about WiFi and few mobile phones brings a smile. I was "released" by my family to wander at 64 under strict instructions to "report" home on a regular basis. Thankfully, they now know that I eventually return home and wonder when I expect to take off again!

 

[Jarrad]

Thanks so much for that! I get very nostalgic every year at this time and start looking at the dates for where I was at that time on my first (and only) CdF.

I carried an ancient Nokia cell phone at the insistence of a relative. Used it maybe a handful of times. Not sure if I could easily separate myself from the iPhone today (the camera if just fantastic!), but I'll find out in 2025 if not sooner.

 

[lalaone]

Postcards that would arrive home after you did
Thanks for the great trip down memory lane!

My avatar photo is from a public phone booth in Villafranca del Bierzo. Now I wish I had taken a photo of the phone booth itself - blue with neon green, the same colors as countertop public phones at bars. They were immediately recognizable. It seems like the last ones are set to disappear now, and it's wild to think that 88% of Spaniards (if this article is true) haven't ever used a phone booth.

https://www.thinkspain.com/news-spain/33197/spain-s-15-000-remaining-phone-boxes-set-to-disappear

 

[Bradypus]

Postcards that would arrive home after you did

That sounds familiar! On my first Camino I made a couple of calls home from pay phones. I also picked up letters from my wife which she had posted to a few pre-arranged Correos offices to wait for my arrival. No internet. No mobile phones. A different century....

 

[David Tallan]

That sounds familiar! On my first Camino I made a couple of calls home from pay phones. I also picked up letters from my wife which she had posted to a few pre-arranged Correos offices to wait for my arrival. No internet. No mobile phones. A different century....

Aah, the memories of Poste Restante...

 

[alhartman]

@Mournes : Same pinchpoints in 2005. We were slow over Pyrenees and arrived at Roncevalles at 7pm for the last two upper beds--3 toilets and 3 showers, one broken for males. Alb in Leon was run by nuns and had separated male/female dorms--and locked the door at 930. (We opened for the unfortunate pilgrims. I developed my successful camino mantra on this first trip "I will do discomfort but I will not do misery"
I was a big fan of Brierley and my spiritual meditation was "How much is enough?" (Contemplating retirement at the time. Just outside Najera, I felt like Paul on the Road To Damascus. Out of the blue my mind said "Wrong question--the answer is always MORE" The right question is "How little is enough?" Happier camino thereafter!!

 

[nycwalking]

I used this guidebook in 2001 on first camino August 4th to September 9TH, Roncesvalles to Santiago. I picked up book at Spanish Embassy in New York City. Guidebook was free to would be pilgrims.



Also, in 2001, only bed race was in Nájera.

In 2002 Mirabel’s albergue in Cizur Menor offered to have pilgrims backpacks transported to an albergue in Puente de la Reina. That was the only bag transport I remember.

Finding Internet cafes and caking cards was an integral part of 2001 and 2002 caminos.

 

[David Tallan]

Interesting (to me) is that this other pamphlet I found from the late 80s, this time from the Xunta of Galicia and only in Spanish, shows more than just the routes from the Codex Calixtinus (although that is the route it describes and has photos from). You can see that the Frances, for them, starts in Puenta la Reina.

Also, it definitely acknowledges that there are modern non-motorized pilgrims who do no wear medieval attire but have "something" that distinguishes them from the simple walker.

 

[Bradypus]

this time from the Xunta of Galicia and only in Spanish,

One of the biggest changes since my first Camino in 1990 has been official recognition and use of minority languages. Government then was much more centralised. Almost no Basque to be seen at the eastern end of the Camino and very little Gallego at the other end. And lots of graffiti where local people were rectifying that themselves. Plus all the alterations to signs mentioning "Castilla y León". You used to be able to place yourself on the map by noting the local graffiti! The language conflicts have mostly vanished now but the "Castilla y León" business was still going strong in January.

 

[David Tallan]

One of the biggest changes since my first Camino in 1990 has been official recognition and use of minority languages. Government then was much more centralised. Almost no Basque to be seen at the eastern end of the Camino and very little Gallego at the other end. And lots of graffiti where local people were rectifying that themselves. Plus all the alterations to signs mentioning "Castilla y León". You used to be able to place yourself on the map by noting the local graffiti! The language conflicts have mostly vanished now but the "Castilla y León" business was still going strong in January.

Very true. Although my point about "Only Spanish" was more about the lack of an English version. The national government provided English pamphlets (and perhaps French and German and other languages - I was only interested in English). The Xunta tourism department wasn't catering to foreigners the same way.

 

[lalaone]

I used this guidebook in 2001 on first camino August 4th to September 9TH, Roncesvalles to Santiago. I picked up book at Spanish Embassy in New York City. Guidebook was free to would be pilgrims.

A guidebook from the embassy, so cool. Wow, did you return directly to New York City after your camino, September 9, 2001? I can't even begin to imagine that experience. The stories you must have! Mad respect.

 

[nycwalking]

A guidebook from the embassy, so cool. Wow, did you return directly to New York City after your camino, September 9, 2001? I can't even begin to imagine that experience. The stories you must have! Mad respect.

I was to have been back in NYC Sept 8TH. Needed an extra week to become a pilgrim, long story. Changed flights. Arrived second time in Santiago on September 9Th. 9/11, mom and me were standing on train platform in Santiago when IT was happening.

Train change in A Coruña conductor heard our American accents and told us what happened. We rushed into cafe at station. Cafe full of people, dead quiet, an English woman standing next to TV was streaming tears. We three watched implosion.

Crazy day. Mom and I were stranded in London 3 days. I was home in NYC 9/16.

Crazy, wild, sad times.

I now reside in Los Angeles to care for mom and dad.

 

[lalaone]

VERY poignant memories, @nycwalking. They will stick with me. Wishing all best to the three of you in LA now, and thank you so much for sharing