LIVE from the Camino Live on Camino Mozarabe / Malaga

[dsharpe]

Hello, first time posting. Had problems getting wifi first few nights but here we are in Villueneva de Algaidas.

Day 1 started in Malaga. Took the #21 bus to get out of town to El cortijuelo (1.40 euro), can pay on bus.
Crossed the street and started our walk. This was a very difficult walk to Almogia. I found the incline was really hard. I also had backpack problems. Who knows. All I can say is that it went up, up and well never stopped going up. Stayed at Alburgie, clean, no fridge. Had someone call the number posted and they were there within 10 minutes.

Day 2 Villanueva de La Conception. Closed albergue is open. The walk was difficult but not like yesterday. Lots of dogs on this walk. Came in on a Monday, everything closed except for super market. Put together supper with what there was, no plates, no pots or pans, no cutlery but the place was clean.

Day 3 Antquera. The El Torcal decent was awesome. Would do it again in a heart beat. Walk into town was scary. We walked in the ditch most of the time. In town, everything available. We stayed in a hotel. Found a laundry mat, Wash & Dreams. Lots of churches in this town.

Day 4 Villueneva de Algadas. Lots of olive trees. Little shade but a good walk. Tired after 25km. Leaving Antquera at the roundabout we made a wrong turn. Should have stayed on left but went right. We Left early in the dark, out first backtrack so far. The locals, very friendly and curious as to what you are doing and where you are going. The water fountain at the last 2km mark was well needed. Our water supply was low. It was nice to enjoy the cold water without worrying about running low. Alburgie is awesome. Full kitchen, plates etc…lots of room.
Temperature starts 18 and quickly rises to 25 c with mid day sun at 30c. Hot, hot hot.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

This was a very difficult walk to Almogia. I found the incline was really hard.

I hear you. When you look around at the top, you can see all the way back to the ocean, but actually I was too tired to enjoy the view...

I am glad to hear they showed up within 10 minutes at the albergue. I waited for hours and began to think they wouldn't let me in at all...

Lots of dogs on this walk

People who are scared of dogs will drop dead at this stage I think. They come from everywhere and seem to roam the fields as they want. People are walking here all the time so of course they don't attack, but they sure put up a show to look menacing...

We stayed in a hotel.

Good choice. The parochial albergue is ok I guess, but very basic. I think I will stay in a hostal/hotel next time in Antequera. Where did you stay and do you recommend it??

Alburgie is awesome. Full kitchen, plates etc…lots of room.

In Villanueva: were you alone or were there other people staying there? When I was there I met two Italian students who worked with the kids at the school, as part of a European project or something. There sure is room for a whole bunch of people... Amazing for a Donativo, I think!

 

[Freewalker]

Hello, first time posting. Had problems getting wifi first few nights but here we are in Villueneva de Algaidas.

Day 1 started in Malaga. Took the #21 bus to get out of town to El cortijuelo (1.40 euro), can pay on bus.
Crossed the street and started our walk. This was a very difficult walk to Almogia. I found the incline was really hard. I also had backpack problems. Who knows. All I can say is that it went up, up and well never stopped going up. Stayed at Alburgie, clean, no fridge. Had someone call the number posted and they were there within 10 minutes.

Day 2 Villanueva de La Conception. Closed albergue is open. The walk was difficult but not like yesterday. Lots of dogs on this walk. Came in on a Monday, everything closed except for super market. Put together supper with what there was, no plates, no pots or pans, no cutlery but the place was clean.

Day 3 Antquera. The El Torcal decent was awesome. Would do it again in a heart beat. Walk into town was scary. We walked in the ditch most of the time. In town, everything available. We stayed in a hotel. Found a laundry mat, Wash & Dreams. Lots of churches in this town.

Day 4 Villueneva de Algadas. Lots of olive trees. Little shade but a good walk. Tired after 25km. Leaving Antquera at the roundabout we made a wrong turn. Should have stayed on left but went right. We Left early in the dark, out first backtrack so far. The locals, very friendly and curious as to what you are doing and where you are going. The water fountain at the last 2km mark was well needed. Our water supply was low. It was nice to enjoy the cold water without worrying about running low. Alburgie is awesome. Full kitchen, plates etc…lots of room.
Temperature starts 18 and quickly rises to 25 c with mid day sun at 30c. Hot, hot hot.

How wonderful to hear from you.... I've been thinking about you and husband !
I leave a week tomorrow and will follow your posts. First day sounds tough so I better be ready for it lol... Wishing you guys a blessed and joyous Camino !!

 

[Freewalker]

I hear you. When you look around at the top, you can see all the way back to the ocean, but actually I was too tired to enjoy the view...

I am glad to hear they showed up within 10 minutes at the albergue. I waited for hours and began to think they wouldn't let me in at all...



People who are scared of dogs will drop dead at this stage I think. They come from everywhere and seem to roam the fields as they want. People are walking here all the time so of course they don't attack, but they sure put up a show to look menacing...



Good choice. The parochial albergue is ok I guess, but very basic. I think I will stay in a hostal/hotel next time in Antequera. Where did you stay and do you recommend it??


In Villanueva: were you alone or were there other people staying there? When I was there I met two Italian students who worked with the kids at the school, as part of a European project or something. There sure is room for a whole bunch of people... Amazing for a Donativo, I think!

Is the parochial albergue in Antequera really that bad ? I plan to stay there.

 

[Bradypus]

Is the parochial albergue in Antequera really that bad ? I plan to stay there.

I stayed there a few years ago. Seemed fine to me. Small and simple but more than adequate.

 

[dsharpe]

I hear you. When you look around at the top, you can see all the way back to the ocean, but actually I was too tired to enjoy the view...

I am glad to hear they showed up within 10 minutes at the albergue. I waited for hours and began to think they wouldn't let me in at all...



People who are scared of dogs will drop dead at this stage I think. They come from everywhere and seem to roam the fields as they want. People are walking here all the time so of course they don't attack, but they sure put up a show to look menacing...



Good choice. The parochial albergue is ok I guess, but very basic. I think I will stay in a hostal/hotel next time in Antequera. Where did you stay and do you recommend it??


In Villanueva: were you alone or were there other people staying there? When I was there I met two Italian students who worked with the kids at the school, as part of a European project or something. There sure is room for a whole bunch of people... Amazing for a Donativo, I think!

Hotel in Antiquera - Manzanito, more like a 3*. Very quiet.

Villanueva - We were with one other person. Amazing how much space we had.

 

[dsharpe]

Day 5 - Encinas Reales. Lots of ups & downs. It never seemed to end today and when the terrain was flat, it wasn’t for long. When leaving VdeAlgaidas you get to a dead end. It was still not bright. The marker is on the other side of the ravine to your left. There are other paths so stop, take a good look around and try and find the marker.

We lost the marker in Cuevas Bajas. Wasted a lot of time getting out of there and when we did we had this terrible back road to deal with. When the traffic finally stopped it was straight up hill all the way to our destination. We stayed at Alburgie, go to police station, sign in & get key. There was a problem with the door when I got to Alburgie so I went back to see the policeman and explain the problem. Key will not open door. He is currently busy with crosswalk duty. Go back to Alburgie and wait. When he showed up, yes we were right. In the end he had to kick the door open. After that the key no longer worked. Someone will come to fix it but not today. No kitchen, beds & showers though. Got to sit outside in a shady church courtyard.

 

[Freewalker]

Day 5 - Encinas Reales. Lots of ups & downs. It never seemed to end today and when the terrain was flat, it wasn’t for long. When leaving VdeAlgaidas you get to a dead end. It was still not bright. The marker is on the other side of the ravine to your left. There are other paths so stop, take a good look around and try and find the marker.

We lost the marker in Cuevas Bajas. Wasted a lot of time getting out of there and when we did we had this terrible back road to deal with. When the traffic finally stopped it was straight up hill all the way to our destination. We stayed at Alburgie, go to police station, sign in & get key. There was a problem with the door when I got to Alburgie so I went back to see the policeman and explain the problem. Key will not open door. He is currently busy with crosswalk duty. Go back to Alburgie and wait. When he showed up, yes we were right. In the end he had to kick the door open. After that the key no longer worked. Someone will come to fix it but not today. No kitchen, beds & showers though. Got to sit outside in a shady church courtyard.

Sorry to hear about the frustrating circumstances as annoying after a tough long walk. Hope you slept well ! Tomorrow will be better...

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

We lost the marker in Cuevas Bajas. Wasted a lot of time getting out of there

Probably because the arrows point in the wrong direction... Down by the church. I think the majority of pilgrims will loose time in Cuevas Bajas because of this. I will go through my phone to see if I took a picture of that weird waymark, as I usually do...

 

[Freewalker]

Probably because the arrows point in the wrong direction... Down by the church. I think the majority of pilgrims will loose time in Cuevas Bajas because of this. I will go through my phone to see if I took a picture of that weird waymark, as I usually do...

Do you know which direction we should be going ? Right vs left or left vs right ? Thanks.

 

[dsharpe]

Do you know which direction we should be going ? Right vs left or left vs right ? Thanks.

You should be going left.

 

[dsharpe]

Day 6 - Encinas Reales to Lucena
Easy walk, met Gardia Cival Police about 3.7km into our walk. At the same place looks like a new picnic table and bench. He wasn’t very talkative, busy looking out through his binoculars. We ran into him a few times that day.

At some point on our walk we started to notice objects hanging from the olive trees. First a plastic place mat, then childrens toys, boots, odd plastic items. Garbage art I guess.

There is another wooden picnic table about halfway into the walk. A nice break.

Once you get into the outskirts of Lucena the feel of the walk changes. You are in the industrial area with a long walk into the city. It was a shock to the system.

 

[dsharpe]

Day 7 - lucena to Cabra
The only difficult part of the day was getting out of the city.

In Lucena, If you get off track get yourself to Ronda del Paseo Viejo and you should be able to find your markers.

The walk on the Via Verde was busy with runners and cyclists. So many people from rarely seeing anyone. It was definitely a change from the last few days.

Short walk, got in early to Cabra. Enjoyed being a tourist.

Staying at Pension Guerrero. The owner is a very nice person. She did our laundry which was a bonus.

Tomorrow we head to Baena, 25km.

 

[J Willhaus]

We had a volunteer hospitalero in Ares on the Aragones who is a full time officer in the Guardia Civil. He was volunteering on his vacation and wanted to talk to us because he wanted to improve his English.

He told us one of the the full time missions of the GC is the Camino. The officers assigned to the area came by while we were there and checked the signin roster and spoke to the hospitaleros and some pilgrims.

Our hospitalero said it is a rural mission to ensure pilgrim safety. He also said one of the other important roles is drug interdiction. I had not paid much attention before, but my husband is a retired law enforcement scholar and says the GC is a military style law enforcement organization. Different now from Franco times, but still living in barracks and wearing uniforms daily.

Glad to know they also patrol the lesser walked Caminos.

 

[Freewalker]

Day 6 - Encinas Reales to Lucena
Easy walk, met Gardia Cival Police about 3.7km into our walk. At the same place looks like a new picnic table and bench. He wasn’t very talkative, busy looking out through his binoculars. We ran into him a few times that day.

At some point on our walk we started to notice objects hanging from the olive trees. First a plastic place mat, then childrens toys, boots, odd plastic items. Garbage art I guess.

There is another wooden picnic table about halfway into the walk. A nice break.

Once you get into the outskirts of Lucena the feel of the walk changes. You are in the industrial area with a long walk into the city. It was a shock to the system.

Did you stay at Hostal/ Pension Sara in Lucena ? Would you mind saying how much the rooms are please ? Many thanks... I am so enjoying your daily entries ! Nothing online about prices etc..

 

[Bradypus]

He told us one of the the full time missions of the GC is the Camino. The officers assigned to the area came by while we were there and checked the signin roster and spoke to the hospitaleros and some pilgrims.

Our hospitalero said it is a rural mission to ensure pilgrim safety.

There was a news report just yesterday of a Camino-dedicated Guardia Civil patrol giving assistance to an injured peregrina on the Camino Frances. Responding to reports of her accident from other pilgrims, finding the woman and then driving her to a medical centre for treatment. A very valuable service.

Auxiliada una peregrina croata tras sufrir una caída en Urbiola

Agentes de la Guardia Civil atendieron a la afectada, que presentaba una brecha en la cabeza y contusiones en brazos y piernas

www.diariodenavarra.es

 

[LTfit]

When I walked the Mozárabe September 2014 from Granada the Guardia Civil stopped me on several occasions asking if I needed help or water. The Policía Local was also quite attentive. I remember having to pick up the key to the albergue (can't remember which town) at their office and when they heard that I was walking alone they told me I could stay an extra night to see if another pilgrim would come along. I didn't.

From Granada to Mérida I met no one walking, that is till I reached Mérida. I hear that there are many more pilgrims these days.

Ultreia!

 

[dsharpe]

Did you stay at Hostal/ Pension Sara in Lucena ? Would you mind saying how much the rooms are please ? Many thanks... I am so enjoying your daily entries ! Nothing online about prices et

Pension Sara booked, hotel Al-yussana booked. Convention in town. Arrived on a Friday. Couldn’t have been worse.

 

[dsharpe]

Day 8 - Cabra to Baena
Lucked out on seeing the Saint Sierra (mountain) being paraded through the town. The townspeople came out en mass. What a sight for a Sunday morning 7:15am. Our understanding, will have to do research is that they carry the decorated Saint up the mountain with the citizens leading up front, the saint then the horse riders (at least 30-40 horses). What a sight. The energy was very up lifting.

After that it was the walk on the via verde. Lots of cyclists, a few runners. We saw a shepherd with his flock of lambs. Unfortunately there was one left behind. The fragility of life. So much to reflect on today.

Dona Mencia, welcome back to the Camino. Ups, downs, gravel, olive trees, the solitude, good or bad.

Here we are in Baena. Wash, fed and feet up.
Tomorrow is another day.

 

[dsharpe]

When I walked the Mozárabe September 2014 from Granada the Guardia Civil stopped me on several occasions asking if I needed help or water. The Policía Local was also quite attentive. I remember having to pick up the key to the albergue (can't remember which town) at their office and when they heard that I was walking alone they told me I could stay an extra night to see if another pilgrim would come along. I didn't.

From Granada to Mérida I met no one walking, that is till I reached Mérida. I hear that there are many more pilgrims these days.

Ultreia!

I would say 1 per day, give or take based on the log in books. I think it is starting to have more walkers. It is just a very lonely/quiet walk. You have to be ready for this type of experience.

 

[dsharpe]

Pension Sara booked, hotel Al-yussana booked. Convention in town. Arrived on a Friday. Couldn’t have been worse. @Freewalker messedvup somehow.

 

[dsharpe]

There was a news report just yesterday of a Camino-dedicated Guardia Civil patrol giving assistance to an injured peregrina on the Camino Frances. Responding to reports of her accident from other pilgrims, finding the woman and then driving her to a medical centre for treatment. A very valuable service.

Auxiliada una peregrina croata tras sufrir una caída en Urbiola

Agentes de la Guardia Civil atendieron a la afectada, que presentaba una brecha en la cabeza y contusiones en brazos y piernas

www.diariodenavarra.es

You know, I thought for sure he was coming over to ask for our credentials. And then out come the binoculars. As we saw him twice more, we figure he had other things on his mind.

 

[Freewalker]

You know, I thought for sure he was coming over to ask for our credentials. And then out come the binoculars. As we saw him twice more, we figure he had other things on his mind.

Oh God I hope there isn't a creep in the area as I'm walking alone !!!

 

[henrythedog]

Oh God I hope there isn't a creep in the area as I'm walking alone !!!

There are many more likely possibilities; not least that the GC are simply tasked with having a visible presence on the route and - if there were someone to look for, then it would appear that they are already looking for him/her (or whatever the correct non-judgemental pronoun for a person of unknown gender is)

 

[dsharpe]

Oh God I hope there isn't a creep in the area as I'm walking alone !!!

We did not feel any reason to worry. When the binoculars came out I immediately thought, poachers.

 

[dsharpe]

There are many more likely possibilities; not least that the GC are simply tasked with having a visible presence on the route and - if there were someone to look for, then it would appear that they are already looking for him/her (or whatever the correct non-judgemental pronoun for a person of unknown gender is)

Them, they.

 

[dsharpe]

Day 9 - almost feels like we cheated the Camino. We woke up to no coffee, a make shift breakfast as the Mercado was closed yesterday. We have been having breakfast in our room with cold cappuccino coffee, not today. But today we had the luxury of cafe con lèche, hot. Further on down the road a bakery to add bread for lunch later.

The walk to the orchard required full attention. Most of the cars were leaving town, like us. We made our right into safety and walked to the next highway in the olive orchard. We met a local with his two dogs, looked like a regular and he waited for us to catch up. We had an interesting conversation about weather and olives. The time passed by quickly when we parted ways at the next highway.

The rain was 2-3 minutes away. We geared up for rain. The rest of the walk was in the rain. That was one of the fastest 20km that we have done in a long time. We were in Castro del Rio before 12:30pm. The rain stopped when we arrived.

We are staying at Hostal A ka La Sole. Met by an energetic person who wanted to share everything about the area with us. Quiet road compared to last night. Looking forward to a good nights sleep later today.

Lunched at Bar Cordoba. Nice and relaxing.

Will play tourist when the town wakes up from their siesta.

 

[AlanSykes]

Castro del Río is one of the places that can claim to be the birthplace of Don Quijote - it is known that the idea for him came to Cervantes when he was in prison, and CdR is one of two places (three if you count being captured by the Berbers) where that happened to him. The very jolly local police, whose predecessors presumably locked up Cervantes, have the key to the (extremely comfortable) local albergue.

 

[dsharpe]

Castro del Río is one of the places that can claim to be the birthplace of Don Quijote - it is known that the idea for him came to Cervantes when he was in prison, and CdR is one of two places (three if you count being captured by the Berbers) where that happened to him. The very jolly local police, whose predecessors presumably locked up Cervantes, have the key to the (extremely comfortable) local albergue.

I wished we had stayed at the Alburgie. I have no regrets, would probably do it differently. Thanks for the history info.

 

[dsharpe]

Day 10 Castro del Rio to Santa Cruz
It is always a nice start with coffee con lèche. We followed the left arrows to Santa Cruz and not straight ahead to the non stop 39km to Córdoba.

Once we got off the scary highway we were able to breath better. Not my cup of tea. It wasn’t long before the Camino Mozarabe association caught up with us. Pictures and high energy made for a memorable moment.

It got lost quickly when we got to Espejo. The signs were not clear and we ended up going into the town, which meant way up. I must say the views were awesome. Only a slight regret.

So now we are heading to Santa Cruz. Thank goodness for cloud cover. Otherwise this would have been one hard walk.

The closer we got to Santa Cruz, the weirder the walk got. East, west, north, south now north west. East again. It was the all elusive Santa Cruz. Right up until our final destination. I will stop there, this was a difficult walk in.

We are registered, had a great lunch. Found the Mercado. Hoping for a quiet evening by the highway.

Tomorrow we rest in Cordoba, maybe.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

to Santa Cruz and not straight ahead to the non stop 39km to Córdoba.

That would be a marathon. But if you like 40 kms of fields...

we got to Espejo. The signs were not clear and we ended up going into the town, which meant way up.

I liked Espejo, but not the hike up to the town's centre. Do you know if there is accomodation there? It would be a nice place to stay, I think.

Tomorrow we rest in Cordoba, maybe.

I am already jealous.

There was talk of an albergue there this summer - I guess there still is none? Any news?

 

[dsharpe]

liked Espejo, but not the hike up to the town's centre. Do you know if there is accomodation there? It would be a nice place to stay, I think.

Yes, T 34 957 376 001 / 608 174 629 / 634 642 581
A small hostal for pilgrims. Police station close to top. You can inquire there.
We moved on.

There was talk of an albergue there this summer - I guess there still is none? Any news?

I did not find any. Santiago church is also closed due to renovations.

 

[dsharpe]

We are in Cordoba. My husband tested positive. I had to take him to the clinic/hospital. He needed antibiotics for the throat infection which is related to COVID. I found us an apartment type place with small kitchen. The room we are currently in is too small. We are fixed for 3 more days. The perils of traveling and living with COVID I guess.

 

[nycwalking]

We are in Cordoba. My husband tested positive. I had to take him to the clinic/hospital. He needed antibiotics for the throat infection which is related to COVID. I found us an apartment type place with small kitchen. The room we are currently in is too small. We are fixed for 3 more days. The perils of traveling and living with COVID I guess.

May hubby get well soon.

Buen camino.

 

[Freewalker]

We are in Cordoba. My husband tested positive. I had to take him to the clinic/hospital. He needed antibiotics for the throat infection which is related to COVID. I found us an apartment type place with small kitchen. The room we are currently in is too small. We are fixed for 3 more days. The perils of traveling and living with COVID I guess.

Oh gosh I hope he improves very quickly.
A word of warning coming down El Torcal to all pilgrims as slipped on loose rocks and pulled something in quad am babying it with 2 nights at Parochial in Antiquera. Very kind people who run it.

 

[OzAnnie]

We are in Cordoba. My husband tested positive. I had to take him to the clinic/hospital. He needed antibiotics for the throat infection which is related to COVID. I found us an apartment type place with small kitchen. The room we are currently in is too small. We are fixed for 3 more days. The perils of traveling and living with COVID I guess.

I hope you are both feeling fit to walk soon
Buen camino
Annie

 

[dsharpe]

Hi, we are on day 9 in Cordoba. We both ended up with COVID. It has taken all our energy to get were we are today. We will not continue on to Merida as planned. It just wasn’t in the stars. If there is anything we have learned from past Camino’s, you need to listen to your body and this decision was made with that in mind.

 

[J Willhaus]

So sorry to hear it. Take care of each other. Praying for your return to health.