LIVE from the Camino Live from the Camino Salvador - it’s hot and very tough here, but incredibly beautiful

[Anita A]

I posted this below (day 2) in the thread called “overdoing it on the San Salvador, but I’ve decided to create a new thread since that one is very long now. Will try to post every day.

(Day 1 was also hot and I was exhausted when I arrived to the Pension Mundo. The hostess in the bar was so nice and gave me the most quiet room. There was a party in the bar..) and she also hanged my laundry in the back yard.

Day 2 La Robla - Poladura

I am on the San Salvador now and it’s very hot. Day 2 today and the uphill from Buiza was brutal. Started early in La Robla, but the tough climb started around noon when it was the hottest. Bring lots of water if it’s sunny. I also bought Aquarius, the energy drink, and it saved my day.

The private hostal in Poladura is closed today, Monday, and the albergue is full, only one bed left right now at 5 pm. The restaurant is also closed on Mondays so you have to buy food for dinner (and breakfast) in Pola de Gordon.
Two pilgrims didn’t know this and they now have to take a taxi back to the supermarket..
Good for the rest of us though since they are bringing back drinks and more water for us

BUT: it was absolutely GORGEOUS out there! Amazing amazing views

Day 3 Poladura - Llanos de Someron
This day was very hard but yet another day with stunning, incredible views. The toughest climb in the beginning was thankfully done in cooler morning temperatures, but the rest of the day was very very hot. We were completely exhausted when we arrived at the amazing albergue in Llanos. I strongly recommend that you stay here, those 19 kms where tough, especially if you walk in hot weather. Unless you are very fit, you should definitely stop here. And the albergue is super, new and wellplanned and run by a very nice family. I asked for gluten-free dinner in advance and breakfast and it was no problem.
Everybody from our group from Poladura , 11 pilgrims, are staying here, not even the super fast and fittest are going further. The las couple haven’t arrived yet though and that’s a bit worrying. It’s more than six o’clock now and we are waiting for them.

 

[trecile]

The private hostal in Poladura is closed today, Monday, and the albergue is full, only one bed left right now at 5 pm

Wow, when I walked the Salvador in June 2019 there were only three of us in the albergue.
It truly is a stunning route. Enjoy!

 

[peregrina2000]

We were completely exhausted when we arrived at the amazing albergue in Llanos. I strongly recommend that you stay here, those 19 kms where tough, especially if you walk in hot weather.

Thanks for posting, @anita. I’m wondering what the hospitalero says about the “Munisteriu” alternative. If you take it tomorrow, please report back. I walked on a day from Pajares and it was very hard. Starting in Llanos, you will be fresh, but I still think it is a very hard alternative. Ender has told me they have tried to find some better footing, because some of the parts of the ascent were really rocky and hard to navigate.

 

[BobY333]

Update…just walked by the Farmacía in La Robla. Sign reads 19:00, 33 degrees!

 

[Anita A]

Update…just walked by the Farmacía in La Robla. Sign reads 19:00, 33 degrees!

Not surprised

 

[LavanyaLea]

I posted this below (day 2) in the thread called “overdoing it on the San Salvador, but I’ve decided to create a new thread since that one is very long now. Will try to post every day.

(Day 1 was also hot and I was exhausted when I arrived to the Pension Mundo. The hostess in the bar was so nice and gave me the most quiet room. There was a party in the bar..) and she also hanged my laundry in the back yard.

Day 2 La Robla - Poladura

I am on the San Salvador now and it’s very hot. Day 2 today and the uphill from Buiza was brutal. Started early in La Robla, but the tough climb started around noon when it was the hottest. Bring lots of water if it’s sunny. I also bought Aquarius, the energy drink, and it saved my day.

The private hostal in Poladura is closed today, Monday, and the albergue is full, only one bed left right now at 5 pm. The restaurant is also closed on Mondays so you have to buy food for dinner (and breakfast) in Pola de Gordon.
Two pilgrims didn’t know this and they now have to take a taxi back to the supermarket..
Good for the rest of us though since they are bringing back drinks and more water for us

BUT: it was absolutely GORGEOUS out there! Amazing amazing views

Day 3 Poladura - Llanos de Someron
This day was very hard but yet another day with stunning, incredible views. The toughest climb in the beginning was thankfully done in cooler morning temperatures, but the rest of the day was very very hot. We were completely exhausted when we arrived at the amazing albergue in Llanos. I strongly recommend that you stay here, those 19 kms where tough, especially if you walk in hot weather. Unless you are very fit, you should definitely stop here. And the albergue is super, new and wellplanned and run by a very nice family. I asked for gluten-free dinner in advance and breakfast and it was no problem.
Everybody from our group from Poladura , 11 pilgrims, are staying here, not even the super fast and fittest are going further. The las couple haven’t arrived yet though and that’s a bit worrying. It’s more than six o’clock now and we are waiting for them.

Your story and photos so far (plus Laurie's comments) have convinced me now that the next next Camino should be Salvador/Primitivo

 

[antepacem]

Oooh, thank you for posting this! I'll be following along. Planning to do the Salvador end of June (when it will be almost certainly much hotter, eek!), but this makes me pumped.

 

[avichouser]

Thank you so much for this information. I"m heading to Spain in Early Sept and am thinking of switching from the Frances route and doing the Salvador - Primitivo - Muxia instead. Still waffling.

 

[PilgrimJames]

I posted this below (day 2) in the thread called “overdoing it on the San Salvador, but I’ve decided to create a new thread since that one is very long now. Will try to post every day.

(Day 1 was also hot and I was exhausted when I arrived to the Pension Mundo. The hostess in the bar was so nice and gave me the most quiet room. There was a party in the bar..) and she also hanged my laundry in the back yard.

Day 2 La Robla - Poladura

I am on the San Salvador now and it’s very hot. Day 2 today and the uphill from Buiza was brutal. Started early in La Robla, but the tough climb started around noon when it was the hottest. Bring lots of water if it’s sunny. I also bought Aquarius, the energy drink, and it saved my day.

The private hostal in Poladura is closed today, Monday, and the albergue is full, only one bed left right now at 5 pm. The restaurant is also closed on Mondays so you have to buy food for dinner (and breakfast) in Pola de Gordon.
Two pilgrims didn’t know this and they now have to take a taxi back to the supermarket..
Good for the rest of us though since they are bringing back drinks and more water for us

BUT: it was absolutely GORGEOUS out there! Amazing amazing views

Day 3 Poladura - Llanos de Someron
This day was very hard but yet another day with stunning, incredible views. The toughest climb in the beginning was thankfully done in cooler morning temperatures, but the rest of the day was very very hot. We were completely exhausted when we arrived at the amazing albergue in Llanos. I strongly recommend that you stay here, those 19 kms where tough, especially if you walk in hot weather. Unless you are very fit, you should definitely stop here. And the albergue is super, new and wellplanned and run by a very nice family. I asked for gluten-free dinner in advance and breakfast and it was no problem.
Everybody from our group from Poladura , 11 pilgrims, are staying here, not even the super fast and fittest are going further. The las couple haven’t arrived yet though and that’s a bit worrying. It’s more than six o’clock now and we are waiting for them.

You sell it so well. I met a wonderful Australian lady on the Primativo some years ago. She began her walk on the San Salvador and also raved about it. Tough but worth all the effort. This is definitely one I gotta do. Thanks for all your details and also concern for each other. Love your photos. Buen Camino

 

[BobY333]

Thanks for posting, @anita. I’m wondering what the hospitalero says about the “Munisteriu” alternative. If you take it tomorrow, please report back. I walked on a day from Pajares and it was very hard. Starting in Llanos, you will be fresh, but I still think it is a very hard alternative. Ender has told me they have tried to find some better footing, because some of the parts of the ascent were really rocky

Thank you so much for this information. I"m heading to Spain in Early Sept and am thinking of switching from the Frances route and doing the Salvador - Primitivo - Muxia instead. Still waffling.

FYI - met a young woman yesterday who bailed on the Frances in León because it was too crowded and “wasted too much mental energy”. She’s now doing the San Salvador/Primitivo.

The Frances is great (I loved it even with all the people in 2018). You won’t have any regrets - you’ll just have other Caminos to look forward to!

 

[Anita A]

Thanks for posting, @anita. I’m wondering what the hospitalero says about the “Munisteriu” alternative. If you take it tomorrow, please report back. I walked on a day from Pajares and it was very hard. Starting in Llanos, you will be fresh, but I still think it is a very hard alternative. Ender has told me they have tried to find some better footing, because some of the parts of the ascent were really rocky and hard to navigate.

Forgot to ask, and we missed the sign for the first alternative anyway, and took the second one that Ender recommends in his guide. That one was beautiful and tough enough so I can’t imageine how hard the first one is. Ender doesn’t recommend it either l.

 

[Anita A]

Your story and photos so far (plus Laurie's comments) have convinced me now that the next next Camino should be Salvador/Primitivo

It’s really amazing and I have been so lucky with clear skies, but it has also been very tough in the heat. But I definitely recommend it! But prepare for the tough terrain if you are not already used to that.

 

[rogersoncharles1951]

FYI - met a young woman yesterday who bailed on the Frances in León because it was too crowded and “wasted too much mental energy”. She’s now doing the San Salvador/Primitivo.

The Frances is great (I loved it even with all the people in 2018). You won’t have any regrets - you’ll just have other Caminos to look forward to!

Yes a great 2 caminos to do together glorious scenery and wild life definitely best caminos of my 17 caminos so far I'm doing the France's fromSJPDP to Astorga probably my final one ever starting 26 th MAY

 

[Anita A]

Day 4 Llanos de Someron - Pola de Lena
Yesterday the whole “camily” had a wonderful dinner that Pablo and Rosario cooked for us. And the breakfast today was also nice. Highly highly recommended, this albergue!

Another hot sunny day. We took the 2nd alternative, didn’t even notice the first one that apparently is extremely tough. This one wasn’t exactly a walk in the park either so I’m glad we didn’t see that option. The first kms was downhill on a road though, but hardly any cars and a very easy walk compared to the previous days. Then came this climb up up up into the woods. It was like walking in a jungle sometimes, very hot and green. Some parts were very overgrown with nettles and thorn bushes so the people with shorts got cut and burned. Nevertheless it was another gorgeous day with amazing scenery. When we walked on the sunny side of the mountain I was exhausted and had to stop and drink and rest very often. A little bit better when we turned around a “corner”.
The forest walk is so beautiful, with fern, ivy, waterfalls, and - of course - stunning views.
We took a very needed lunch break in Campomanes, at the first bar since Pajares, and after that the walk was easier, except for the steep and rocky climb up and down to the beautiful chapel Santa Christina de Lena which unfortunately was closed.
In Mieres me and two others called it a day and checked in at Hotel Ruta de la Plata de Asturias. it’s a nice hotel but the service is a bit strange.. (if you have seen the TV show Fawlty Towers you know what I mean.. ) The town is nice but we couldn’t get any dinner since we wanted to eat before 8 pm. Went to a very very nice bar called Lovermo and had tortilla patata and amazing wine that should have been accompanied with a nice meal

 

[LavanyaLea]

Day 4 Llanos de Someron - Pola de Lena
Yesterday the whole “camily” had a wonderful dinner that Pablo and Rosario cooked for us. And the breakfast today was also nice. Highly highly recommended, this albergue!

Glad to hear that! Funnily enough, before you started this thread yesterday, I was looking at places to stay in this Camino and I have saved Albergue Cascoxu on my list of dog friendly accomodation as an alternative to Pajares!

We took the 2nd alternative, didn’t even notice the first one that apparently is extremely tough. This one wasn’t exactly a walk in the park either so I’m glad we didn’t see that option.

I wonder if there is a GPX file available. Seems a good idea if it tends to be very quiet and marking signs not very obvious/obscured by overgrown vegetations.

Some parts were very overgrown with nettles and thorn bushes so the people with shorts got cut and burned

I remember watching this on Efren's video! When I don't wear shorts, I wear hiking pants (like yoga pants but supposedly more durable) and.... nettle thorns still go through that.

lunch break in Campomanes, at the first bar since Pajares, and after that the walk was easier, except for the steep and rocky climb up and down to the beautiful chapel Santa Christina de Lena which unfortunately was closed.
In Mieres me and two others called it a day and checked in at Hotel Ruta de la Plata de Asturias.

Ah a shame the chapel is closed, is that COVID related closures? According to the website it's only Mondays that they're closed, but they do have siesta 1-4.30pm?

You are staying at all the places I have bookmarked

 

[peregrina2000]

Ah a shame the chapel is closed, is that COVID related closures? According to the website it's only Mondays that they're closed, but they do have siesta 1-4.30pm?

Santa Cristina de Lena is open. You’re right about the schedule. I had slept in Pajares in September, and that meant I got to Santa Cristina in mid-siesta. Rather than wait for it to re-open, I walked into Pola de Lena, showered, dropped my stuff, and took a cab there for an afternoon visit. I think he charged me 20 (?). He waited there for 45 minutes while I enjoyed the church and the grounds, so I think it was quite a bargain!

I would schedule my Salvador to make sure not to pass by on a Monday. It is beautiful on the outside, but the inside is pretty stunning as well.

01/04 a 31/10: (Summer hours, April 1 - October 31)
11:00 a 13:00 y 16:30 a 18:30 h.
01/12 a 31/03 (Winter hours, December 1 - March 31)
11:00 a 13:00 h.

Cerrado: lunes y 01/11 a 30/11 (closed on Mondays and the month of November).

 

[APilgrim3393]

Santa Cristina de Lena is open. You’re right about the schedule. I had slept in Pajares in September, and that meant I got to Santa Cristina in mid-siesta. Rather than wait for it to re-open, I walked into Pola de Lena, showered, dropped my stuff, and took a cab there for an afternoon visit. I think he charged me 20 (?). He waited there for 45 minutes while I enjoyed the church and the grounds, so I think it was quite a bargain!

I would schedule my Salvador to make sure not to pass by on a Monday. It is beautiful on the outside, but the inside is pretty stunning as well.

01/04 a 31/10: (Summer hours, April 1 - October 31)
11:00 a 13:00 y 16:30 a 18:30 h.
01/12 a 31/03 (Winter hours, December 1 - March 31)
11:00 a 13:00 h.

Cerrado: lunes y 01/11 a 30/11 (closed on Mondays and the month of November).

The Camino Salvador is my favorite so far as I completed it recently. On the Camino Frances after the famed meseta, turning right (north) in Leon was a great decision, but as mentioned by original poster, it's harder than others. I was suprised how even on day one (midway) provided me with a few kilometers of a demanding mountain type terrain. I did it in 7 days (one day lost due to getting lost and sleeping (or not sleeping) outside. But many people do this in 5 days as an average hiker. I hear many do it in four. That's amazing to me. Of course it isn't a race and some don't have the luxury of time. But I suggest 1. Do it if you're wondering if it's a good idea. 2. Take your time. And as of May 5 2022, do not expect to stay in Munincipal albergues as I found them to be closed. 3. If you're walking the Frances, and have a few extra euros get the credential specific to the Salvador Camino and for a single euro get a certification of completion (similar to a compostela) at the cathedral in Oviedo and you'll get a discount to tour the cathedral. 4. There are many fountains to fill up your water bottle but have an extra bottle always near on this camino. 5. If you did the first week of the northern camino, this will be nothing out of norm, but if you have done only the Camino Frances and with limited hiking experience, be prepared for a different type of terrain and experience. I met a total of 5 walking pilgrims in 7 days. 6. Maybe I'm a slower average because I definitely would do this in 6 days. The route is well-marked and it took effort for me to get lost in the mountains after "Buezo" 7. Buen camino. Cruise director J Franconi

 

[Isca-camigo]

I did it in 7 days (one day lost due to getting lost and sleeping (or not sleeping) outside. But many people do this in 5 days as an average hiker. I hear many do it in four.

Me and my partner did it in 8 days in 2014, on one day we stayed at the albergue in Buzia, an Italian peregrina arrived at 6ish just as we were cooking fideo con sepia, a fresh fish van had turned up in the village earlier that day. The peregrina had come from Leon, she had no food etc etc we offered her some of ours and wine as well, she refused at first but as her situation dawned on her and our food smell drifted around the dorm she took some, she was going to Pola de Lena the next day and then Oviedo the day after, She could have joined us to eat but went to the far side of the dorm where she was probably nervous about the ' strange couple' talking in a mix of English and poor Spanish( mine).
If I have a gripe about long distance walkers it's not the distance, they can do what they want but it's they usually turn up with no or little provisions, get panicky when they realise there isn't what they are expecting, food, accommodation and turn tranquil moments into something else.
I'm back on the San Salvador in June - My partner requested to do it again, with some of her Spanish Family, but since then I keep seeing dates being put down from other members which coincide with ours, it seems crowded this year and probably will be until the big numbers on the CF have started going down in Sept/Oct and people are turning off at Leon. So I might find an alternative, but I am sure my partner likes very much this mini Camino and is set on it. At least I have a tent which I'm using in Andulicia for a week beforehand.

 

[PilgrimJames]

The Camino Salvador is my favorite so far as I completed it recently. On the Camino Frances after the famed meseta, turning right (north) in Leon was a great decision, but as mentioned by original poster, it's harder than others. I was suprised how even on day one (midway) provided me with a few kilometers of a demanding mountain type terrain. I did it in 7 days (one day lost due to getting lost and sleeping (or not sleeping) outside. But many people do this in 5 days as an average hiker. I hear many do it in four. That's amazing to me. Of course it isn't a race and some don't have the luxury of time. But I suggest 1. Do it if you're wondering if it's a good idea. 2. Take your time. And as of May 5 2022, do not expect to stay in Munincipal albergues as I found them to be closed. 3. If you're walking the Frances, and have a few extra euros get the credential specific to the Salvador Camino and for a single euro get a certification of completion (similar to a compostela) at the cathedral in Oviedo and you'll get a discount to tour the cathedral. 4. There are many fountains to fill up your water bottle but have an extra bottle always near on this camino. 5. If you did the first week of the northern camino, this will be nothing out of norm, but if you have done only the Camino Frances and with limited hiking experience, be prepared for a different type of terrain and experience. I met a total of 5 walking pilgrims in 7 days. 6. Maybe I'm a slower average because I definitely would do this in 6 days. The route is well-marked and it took effort for me to get lost in the mountains after "Buezo" 7. Buen camino. Cruise director J Franconi

I love the tone and calm consideration of your post. For me, the message is 'do it' and 'take my time! Thank you for taking the time to share your experience.

 

[czelnick]

We did the Salvador last month- there we just 2 others besides my wife and me for the 6 days. We had unexpected snow from Buiza to Pajares (2 days walking), so it was an adventure. We were knee deep in snow after Poladura, and for awhile it was a bit scary. The two men on the trail from Pamplona were helpful. They took the Monisterio trial and said it was awful- worse than in the snow over the pass. Very narrow and scary. They did not gain any time doing that route, we are slow old people and came out near Campomanes at the same time as they arrived. Today we are 20 km from Santiago, having come down the Primitivo. Buen camino to you all.

 

[APilgrim3393]

I love the tone and calm consideration of your post. For me, the message is 'do it' and 'take my time! Thank you for taking the time to share your experience.

Me and my partner did it in 8 days in 2014, on one day we stayed at the albergue in Buzia, an Italian peregrina arrived at 6ish just as we were cooking fideo con sepia, a fresh fish van had turned up in the village earlier that day. The peregrina had come from Leon, she had no food etc etc we offered her some of ours and wine as well, she refused at first but as her situation dawned on her and our food smell drifted around the dorm she took some, she was going to Pola de Lena the next day and then Oviedo the day after, She could have joined us to eat but went to the far side of the dorm where she was probably nervous about the ' strange couple' talking in a mix of English and poor Spanish( mine).
If I have a gripe about long distance walkers it's not the distance, they can do what they want but it's they usually turn up with no or little provisions, get panicky when they realise there isn't what they are expecting, food, accommodation and turn tranquil moments into something else.
I'm back on the San Salvador in June - My partner requested to do it again, with some of her Spanish Family, but since then I keep seeing dates being put down from other members which coincide with ours, it seems crowded this year and probably will be until the big numbers on the CF have started going down in Sept/Oct and people are turning off at Leon. So I might find an alternative, but I am sure my partner likes very much this mini Camino and is set on it. At least I have a tent which I'm using in Andulicia for a week beforehand.

There were two night that i tent and a good sleeping bag would've helped me but that's because I start late in the day and easily get lost. I had the few bucks for hostels and pensions easily reachable but slept in the cold on two nights- an adventure no less.

 

[Isca-camigo]

There were two night that i tent and a good sleeping bag would've helped me but that's because I start late in the day and easily get lost. I had the few bucks for hostels and pensions easily reachable but slept in the cold on two nights- an adventure no less.

View attachment 125772

I was hoping to do at least two 35 + days Caminos this year like I did in 2010 but I have health issues which are not going away. The San Salvador seemed an easy option but when I read the numbers on it and other people planning to start in groups on my planned day I have backed off this beautiful short route and will be doing something else which won't have the impact on the knees. I'm going to the coast in Asturias/Galicia and I'm going to camp and walk coastal paths.