LIVE from the Camino Live from the Camino (Portugues)

[Noel & Annie J]

We’ve spent a wonderful day in Porto. We arrived yesterday via the IC from Lisbon. We got of the train at Vila de Nova Gaia and walked (5 km) to our accommodations in Porto. We’re at the Hostel Alegria which seems to be the highest point around. Everywhere we went today was downhill. Tomorrow, we’re planning to walk to Vila de Conde along the Coastal Route. The forecast is rain for the next couple of days. Today, though, it’s been 20 and sunny.

We collected our stamp at the Cathedral yesterday and will try to grab another tomorrow. Wheee!

 

[mspath]

Noel & Annie J,
Glad to read your happy news. Looking forward to following your journey as you progress.
Stay safe, Carpe diem and Bom caminho to you both.

 

[AlainC]

I plan to do the Costal in September, so I will be interested in reading your account of your pilgrimage.

 

[Vince Rollason]

We’ve spent a wonderful day in Porto. We arrived yesterday via the IC from Lisbon. We got of the train at Vila de Nova Gaia and walked (5 km) to our accommodations in Porto. We’re at the Hostel Alegria which seems to be the highest point around. Everywhere we went today was downhill. Tomorrow, we’re planning to walk to Vila de Conde along the Coastal Route. The forecast is rain for the next couple of days. Today, though, it’s been 20 and sunny.

We collected our stamp at the Cathedral yesterday and will try to grab another tomorrow. Wheee!

Hi.
I walked the costal route from Porto in April and it was my wettest Camino. When the rains come in off the Atlantic, they are biblical but when the sun shines it is a beautiful walk. Take care as you pass thought Vigo it is a nightmare to negotiate both in and out. However, it is worth the effort to see the old town and port.
Buen Camino
Vince

 

[PNeer]

We’ve spent a wonderful day in Porto. We arrived yesterday via the IC from Lisbon. We got of the train at Vila de Nova Gaia and walked (5 km) to our accommodations in Porto. We’re at the Hostel Alegria which seems to be the highest point around. Everywhere we went today was downhill. Tomorrow, we’re planning to walk to Vila de Conde along the Coastal Route. The forecast is rain for the next couple of days. Today, though, it’s been 20 and sunny.

We collected our stamp at the Cathedral yesterday and will try to grab another tomorrow. Wheee!

Glad to follow your adventure as I prepare for the Portugues in September

 

[Adelina]

Yes, looking forward to following in your footsteps in early May! Keep the posts coming, please!

 

[Gii]

I'll be joint you folks on the 17th best of luck on your journey!

 

[Noel & Annie J]

Hi.
I walked the costal route from Porto in April and it was my wettest Camino. When the rains come in off the Atlantic, they are biblical but when the sun shines it is a beautiful walk. Take care as you pass thought Vigo it is a nightmare to negotiate both in and out. However, it is worth the effort to see the old town and port.
Buen Camino
Vince

It was raining today but not nearly as bad as predicted. We appreciate the advice regarding Vigo.

 

[Noel & Annie J]

Today was a 28km day for us, 8km by bus and 20km on foot. (We used the bus to shorten the walk through Porto.) We followed the Central route until the Mira Maia shopping center where we had a nice break, good restrooms and food. Then we broke towards the coast and are spending the night in the beautiful city of Vila do Conde in a private room. We’ve collected our two stamps after arriving, from the tourist office and the library. The weather was rainy and windy, but less so than predicted. The same weather has been forecasted again for tomorrow. We saw eight other peregrinos on the road today. The only one that we spoke to was a solitary women from Taiwan.

In the mornin, we’re planning to spend some time here in Vila do Conde before heading towards Rates.

 

[FourSeasons]

It appears there are a lot of September Portuguese Camino walkers getting ready, myself included. We are all looking forward to following your adventure here. Buen Camino!

 

[BigT]

Thank you for sharing your daily travels. Would you consider some comments on your accommodations and terrain? We have a group of over 70 gents Caminoing from Porto on October. Your comments would be appreciated, as we gave up double decker beds for Lent 50 years ago, and are still holding to that pledge.
We wish you a wonderful Camino.

 

[J Willhaus]

Thank you for sharing your daily travels. Would you consider some comments on your accommodations and terrain? We have a group of over 70 gents Caminoing from Porto on October. Your comments would be appreciated, as we gave up double decker beds for Lent 50 years ago, and are still holding to that pledge.
We wish you a wonderful Camino.

Wow! That's a crowd! Are you considering youth hostels or how will you house a group that large!

Edited: I hope you mean gentlemen over age 70 and not more than 70 men.

 

[Kel L]

Wow! That's a crowd! Are you considering youth hostels or how will you house a group that large!

I was assuming he meant over 70, as an age, but I could be wrong. I am also 70 plus and hope to stay on the lower bunks. lol

 

[trecile]

We’ve collected our two stamps after arriving, from the tourist office and the library.

Nothing wrong with collecting as many stamps as you like, but the requirement to have two stamps per day doesn't start until you are 100 km from Santiago.

We have a group of over 70 gents Caminoing from Porto on October.

Wow! That's a crowd! Are you considering youth hostels or how will you house a group that large!

That's what I thought at first too, but I believe that @Kel L is correct and they are a group of gents over 70 years old, hence the reference to giving up double decker beds 50 years ago.

I was assuming he meant over 70, as an age, but I could be wrong. I am also 70 plus and hope to stay on the lower bunks. lol

 

[BigT]

Wow! That's a crowd! Are you considering youth hostels or how will you house a group that large!

Edited: I hope you mean gentlemen over age 70 and not more than 70 men.

Well, I guess I misspoke, as I intended to mean over 70 years old gents. So I got a laugh out of that and hope others did.
Now you have started the wheels turning about 70 men walking together, well, straggling together.
If we could do that with people from many countries, that would be quite interesting. And rewarding. I wonder if one could learn a new language or two over a month of that type of immersion.

 

[Airfix]

Well, I guess I misspoke, as I intended to mean over 70 years old gents. So I got a laugh out of that and hope others did.
Now you have started the wheels turning about 70 men walking together, well, straggling together.
If we could do that with people from many countries, that would be quite interesting. And rewarding. I wonder if one could learn a new language or two over a month of that type of immersion.

Well, I guess I misspoke, as I intended to mean over 70 years old gents. So I got a laugh out of that and hope others did.
Now you have started the wheels turning about 70 men walking together, well, straggling together.
If we could do that with people from many countries, that would be quite interesting. And rewarding. I wonder if one could learn a new language or two over a month of that type of immersion.

Now that's cleared up (and I've managed to delete a vision of 70 guys turning up at a small café along the route) can I ask if you intend to carry all your gear or send it on each day?
We did the Porto route last September, stayed in some wonderful places using a courier service to transport the bulk of our stuff and carried only a day sack. This enabled us to walk further, linger longer and recover quicker.
At 60+, I've lugged enough in my life!

 

[BigT]

Now that's cleared up (and I've managed to delete a vision of 70 guys turning up at a small café along the route) can I ask if you intend to carry all your gear or send it on each day?
We did the Porto route last September, stayed in some wonderful places using a courier service to transport the bulk of our stuff and carried only a day sack. This enabled us to walk further, linger longer and recover quicker.
At 60+, I've lugged enough in my life!

Airfix,

We plan to carry daypacks and have our other stuff transported.
I would really appreciate seeing your trip details, if you are willing to share them here or via private message. Your trip splits, daily mileage, your accommodations,etc.
When people have joint and or back/neck issues, good single level beds are a necessity.
We did part of the Camino Frances in March 2020 and used a similar plan and that worked well.
Well, until covid struck and we had to skedaddle quickly and drop our SDC to Finisterre to Muxia and back to SDC legs.
Covid cramped our thoughts, but not our spirits.

 

[Airfix]

Airfix,

We plan to carry daypacks and have our other stuff transported.
I would really appreciate seeing your trip details, if you are willing to share them here or via private message. Your trip splits, daily mileage, your accommodations,etc.
When people have joint and or back/neck issues, good single level beds are a necessity.
We did part of the Camino Frances in March 2020 and used a similar plan and that worked well.
Well, until covid struck and we had to skedaddle quickly and drop our SDC to Finisterre to Muxia and back to SDC legs.
Covid cramped our thoughts, but not our spirits.

BigT
I'll send you details by PM. Don't want to distract from Noel & Annie's Live From Camino Thread.

 

[Noel & Annie J]

Yesterday, we walked from Vila do Conde to Sao Pedro do Rates (about 12 km). We followed the alternate Aqueduct Route to avoid the road traffic as much as possible on this segment. You do literally follow the aqueduct for kilometers in spite of the sometimes sketchy way marking. Because of the heavy rains, at one point on a dirt road connecter segment we removed our shoes and waded through 10-15 cm of standing water. We overnighted at the Rates albergue with a large group of pilgrims from Germany. Our room had bunk beds for 15 but there were only 11 of us. At some point in the night, a large cat visited my wife for a bit. The host is very friendly. The showers were hot. We ate dinner at the restaurante next door to the albergue, but the kitchen is well outfitted if you prefer to prepare your own dinner.

 

[KSimons22]

We’ve spent a wonderful day in Porto. We arrived yesterday via the IC from Lisbon. We got of the train at Vila de Nova Gaia and walked (5 km) to our accommodations in Porto. We’re at the Hostel Alegria which seems to be the highest point around. Everywhere we went today was downhill. Tomorrow, we’re planning to walk to Vila de Conde along the Coastal Route. The forecast is rain for the next couple of days. Today, though, it’s been 20 and sunny.

We collected our stamp at the Cathedral yesterday and will try to grab another tomorrow. Wheee!

Following your journey here. We leave in 10 days from Porto to follow the coastal route.

 

[Noel & Annie J]

I’m posting twice today, because the albergue in Rates doesn’t have Wi-Fi. We had an enjoyable walk (about 16 km) from Rates to Barcelos—up and down with many nice vistas. I love rivers, so Barcelos is a spectacular location. We’re staying tonight in a small hotel close to the water in order to catch up on sleep. We’ve got twin beds and a private bath. (Between the crinkle of the plastic sheets, the sleeping sounds of our roommates, and the cat, it wasn’t a great night as far as sleeping goes.)

After a pilgrim lunch close to hotel, I got an Oreo cupcake at Pingo Doce for dessert. I’m now thinking of relocating to Portugal so they can be a steady part of my diet on a go-forward basis.

Following your journey here. We leave in 10 days from Porto to follow the coastal route.

The weather forecasts have not been great—Mon thru Wed—but the weather itself ha been good. It has rained heavily at night, but the daytime weather has been fine. I loved Vila do Conde and Porto both, because I’m a water and boat guy at heart. Bom caminho!

 

[Noel & Annie J]

Thank you for sharing your daily travels. Would you consider some comments on your accommodations and terrain? We have a group of over 70 gents Caminoing from Porto on October. Your comments would be appreciated, as we gave up double decker beds for Lent 50 years ago, and are still holding to that pledge.
We wish you a wonderful Camino.

I’ll try to remember to include that type of information. I’d characterize the terrain so far, though, as hilly.

 

[Dysie]

Now that's cleared up (and I've managed to delete a vision of 70 guys turning up at a small café along the route) can I ask if you intend to carry all your gear or send it on each day?
We did the Porto route last September, stayed in some wonderful places using a courier service to transport the bulk of our stuff and carried only a day sack. This enabled us to walk further, linger longer and recover quicker.
At 60+, I've lugged enough in my life!

How much was it per day to have your bag carried? I guess you also booked ahead so your bags could be delivered. Thanks

 

[Airfix]

How much was it per day to have your bag carried? I guess you also booked ahead so your bags could be delivered. Thanks

Our bags and accommodation were arranged together, so can't be precise about the baggage rate. Shop around, I suspect 10 to 15 Euro's would be about right, if you weren't staying in a remote location.

 

[trecile]

Our bags and accommodation were arranged together, so can't be precise about the baggage rate. Shop around, I suspect 10 to 15 Euro's would be about right, if you weren't staying in a remote location.

Actually, depending on the company, and if you book a package of luggage transfers it can be as low as about 5.5 Euros per day.

 

[Dysie]

Actually, depending on the company, and if you book a package of luggage transfers it can be as low as about 5.5 Euros per day.

Thank you, buen camino

 

[Sheila516]

BigT
I'll send you details by PM. Don't want to distract from Noel & Annie's Live From Camino Thread.

I would appreciate that information too, BigT. I click all the buttons, of over 65, want the experience but would like to transport backpack ahead, etc.

 

[Kitty2022]

Thank you for sharing your daily travels. Would you consider some comments on your accommodations and terrain? We have a group of over 70 gents Caminoing from Porto on October. Your comments would be appreciated, as we gave up double decker beds for Lent 50 years ago, and are still holding to that pledge.
We wish you a wonderful Camino.

Hi, is your group over 70 age wise or are there 70 of you? Lol. When in October are you starting? We are walking the last half of October also.

 

[BigT]

Hi, is your group over 70 age wise or are there 70 of you? Lol. When in October are you starting? We are walking the last half of October also.

We start in late September or early October and don't plan to reach SDC until late October.
We are a group of guys over age 70, no a group of 70 people.

 

[Dojo]

Noel and Annie - please keep posting. I step off from Porto on 22 May and hope to stay on the Coastal route, then over to the Spiritual route before getting to Santiago on 3 June.

 

[Noel & Annie J]

How time flies when you’re on the Caminho! Since my last post, we’ve completed three segments—1) Barcelos to Balugães, 2) Balugães to Ponte de Lima, and 3) Ponte de Lima to Rubiães. First of all, the weather has been absolutely gorgeous. We couldn’t have asked for better! Segments 1 and 2 were very similar as far as the terrain goes—ups and downs but nothing too hard or challenging. Segment 3, though, has a serious uphill segment, lasting for kilometers. It gets steep and rough enough to almost require scrambling on all fours as you near the top. We’re definitely getting more acclimated to the workload as we go, but today was demanding to say the least.

The Way is only lightly traveled at the moment. Today, we saw only four other Peregrinos all day. The prior two days, we saw only eight others. We literally hike by ourselves for hours. We’re fine with that, but if you’re expecting a social experience, you might be disappointed.

We’ve been staying in private rooms rather than albergues and have been paying between € 30-40 per night with breakfast included. The accommodations range from satisfactory to wonderful. One night, we even had a bathtub.

Final note, we have learned to be proactive about shopping and eating. There haven’t been a plethora of options, and the Holy Week celebrations have trimmed things even further. We felt blessed today by angels on our path who we’re working and serving on Holy Saturday.

Bom caminho, friends! Happy Easter and God bless!

 

[Noel & Annie J]

Noel and Annie - please keep posting. I step off from Porto on 22 May and hope to stay on the Coastal route, then over to the Spiritual route before getting to Santiago on 3 June.

We just decided not to add the Spiritual variant today based on our mountain climbing experience on today’s segment. I also don’t like the tenor of the “boat” description in the Wise Pilgrim guidebook. If you do end up doing that, I’d love to hear about it!

 

[Ho ming chan]

We’ve spent a wonderful day in Porto. We arrived yesterday via the IC from Lisbon. We got of the train at Vila de Nova Gaia and walked (5 km) to our accommodations in Porto. We’re at the Hostel Alegria which seems to be the highest point around. Everywhere we went today was downhill. Tomorrow, we’re planning to walk to Vila de Conde along the Coastal Route. The forecast is rain for the next couple of days. Today, though, it’s been 20 and sunny.

We collected our stamp at the Cathedral yesterday and will try to grab another tomorrow.

Try HI at v d Conde. Great place including great brekki.

 

[Ho ming chan]

Try HI at v d Conde. Great place including great brekki.

Have a chocolate drink at Novo Rumo at Praia de Labruje (Labruge), best one ever for £2, especially on a wet cold day.

 

[Ho ming chan]

We just decided not to add the Spiritual variant today based on our mountain climbing experience on today’s segment. I also don’t like the tenor of the “boat” description in the Wise Pilgrim guidebook. If you do end up doing that, I’d love to hear about it!

The spiritual variant has no climbing, just walking slowly to 450m elevation, the first km is quite steep but zig zag along small villages. If not using boat (which supposedly a high light which I missed reluctantly), one can walk to villagracia da arousa, take train to Pontecesures or Padron. I stopped at Millodorie (private albergue) b4 the 2 hours walk to finish. A good decision because walking upward to Millodorie was a chore after 11 days.

 

[kenwilltravel]

I agree with Ho ming chan that the walk up to Armenteira on the Spiritual Variant is not a "serious" climb like the one after Ponte de Lima.

 

[BigT]

Thanks for your descriptions.

 

[Dojo]

Is or Has anyone stopped in Padron to get the Pedronia credential??

 

[Noel & Annie J]

I agree with Ho ming chan that the walk up to Armenteira on the Spiritual Variant is not a "serious" climb like the one after Ponte de Lima.

Good to know. How about the boat arrangements. My guide book makes it sound sketchy. Any insight?

 

[Ho ming chan]

Is or Has anyone stopped in Padron to get the Pedronia credential??

There is a place right after the huge long plaza, cafeteria Don pepe II and tourism office.

 

[Ho ming chan]

Good to know. How about the boat arrangements. My guide book makes it sound sketchy. Any insight?

WhatsApp these two outfits, see pic. They also have 3 pm schedule plus mornings (not everyday in low season, departure time depends on tide). And this hostel (A Corticella) is short walk to pier.

 

[Ho ming chan]

WhatsApp these two outfits, see pic. They also have 3 pm schedule plus mornings (not everyday in low season, departure time depends on tide). And this hostel (A Corticella) is short walk to pier.

Book this hostel with booking.com. me not getting commission, just my experience 1 month ago.

 

[trecile]

Is or Has anyone stopped in Padron to get the Pedronia credential??

Yes, I spent the night in Padrón and received the Pedronia certificate.

 

[Susan Peacock]

Good to know. How about the boat arrangements. My guide book makes it sound sketchy. Any insight?

Loved the spiritual variant. The uphill to Armenteria is long if it comes at the end of the day (its not rocky like the one after Ponte de Lima), but if you have time stay in the small village on the water, Combarro and break the day up. It is small, lovely and has great seafood. The way down from Armenteria is one of the most beautiful of all my Camino's.
We loved our sunrise boat ride into Padron, passing the 17 maritime crosses. We called the number in the guidebook and it was easy. I say if you have the time and it won't rush you then do it.

 

[Ho ming chan]

There is a place right after the huge long plaza, cafeteria Don pepe II and tourism office.

Sorry. I mis read your msg. May be tourism office has a credential.

 

[kenwilltravel]

Good to know. How about the boat arrangements. My guide book makes it sound sketchy. Any insight?

That's a complicated subject. Here's a recent Forum thread that contains some good insights into that topic: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...ontecesures-2022-timetable.73083/#post-994642

 

[kenwilltravel]

Is or Has anyone stopped in Padron to get the Pedronia credential??

We got one in 2018, from a tourist information kiosk located on the Avenida Compostela near the center of town. The requirement, at least at that time, was to visit the major sites in Padron related to the story of St. James. The document is in Latin, like the Compostela itself.

 

[Kitty2022]

We start in late September or early October and don't plan to reach SDC until late October.
We are a group of guys over age 70, not a group of 70 people.

Ah….. very good! We are in our late sixties and hope to reach SDC by October 31st maybe our paths will cross.

 

[Adelina]

I enjoy following your journey and was wondering if you decided to go inland for a reason? I thought you were doing the coastal? Thanks so much.

 

[dreid88621]

We collected our stamp at the Cathedral yesterday and will try to grab another tomorrow. Wheee!

I’m arriving in Porto on Friday and plan to start my walk on Saturday. I’m disappointed to hear about the rain. Good luck, and enjoy your adventure.

 

[Noel & Annie J]

I enjoy following your journey and was wondering if you decided to go inland for a reason? I thought you were doing the coastal? Thanks so much.

Yes, I was more interested in the historical aspect provided by the Central path. For example, between Ponte de Lima and Valenca there are multiple interactions with the ancient Roman road.

 

[Ho ming chan]

I’m arriving in Porto on Friday and plan to start my walk on Saturday. I’m disappointed to hear about the rain. Good luck, and enjoy your adventure.

My first day on March 12 was heavy rain and strong wind along the coast. Everything soaked including my water protected shoes, except my stuff inside the pack. Great to enjoy a chocolate shot at Novo Rumo (Labruge beach). Then almost no rain at all b4 Santiago. Temperature is warmer now,. So enjoy what the Way bring upon. Buen Camino.

 

[Noel & Annie J]

We are resting today in Tui after seven days of walking. Tui is a beautiful city by a river, and the possibility of crossing back over to visit Valenca again is a bonus. The walk yesterday from our room in Rubiaes to the beautiful albergue here was about 22 km. Much of the first half of the walk was on Roman road and bridges. History and tradition was why we selected this route, so today was a special experience. It was a misty, cool morning and the a sunny afternoon. The the terrain was up and down, with an emphasis on the downside direction.

We ate a delicious lunch at the Quinta do Caminho conveniently located on the trail at almost the exact halfway point. We were grateful for the food and the courteous, friendly service. The people we have encountered in Portugal, almost universally have been friendly and gracious.

We spent the night in the Albergue Pallanes in Tui. It’s a palace, and the couple running the place are very friendly and helpful. They’ve got washing machines, dryers, and nice clothes lines. We‘ll definitely hit the road tomorrow fresher and smelling better.

Happy trails, friends, and buen camino!

 

[design4life]

@Noel & Annie J a few questions-
Where did you stay after the big climb to Rubaies? I reserved at Ninho -- which sounds great -- but it's the last accom after the climb so I worry whether I'll be so beat that I should stop at the first albergue.
Which luggage transport did you use? I have "ok" to my itinerary with Caminofácil and Tuitrans but haven't committed to either.
Heaviness of rain: an observation that perhaps I should carry by big, bulky Altus rather than just a rain jacket. Do you think the rain is heavier on the coast because of the wind?

 

[Mike Long]

Thanks for all the news and your experiences on the coastal route. We will be starting out from Porto on 17 May so will take advantage of your provided info. Enjoy your walk and we look forward to more walk details. Mike & Liz

 

[Airfix]

If you have time take a tour of the Catedral de Santa, Great views from the roof (stairs in South West corner) and garden looking over Minho.

 

[Adelina]

Yes, I was more interested in the historical aspect provided by the Central path. For example, between Ponte de Lima and Valenca there are multiple interactions with the ancient Roman road.

thank you so much - we are still not sure which route we will take. Thanks for your insights!

 

[Noel & Annie J]

My first day on March 12 was heavy rain and strong wind along the coast. Everything soaked including my water protected shoes, except my stuff inside the pack. Great to enjoy a chocolate shot at Novo Rumo (Labruge beach). Then almost no rain at all b4 Santiago. Temperature is warmer now,. So enjoy what the Way bring upon. Buen Camino.

@Noel & Annie J a few questions-
Where did you stay after the big climb to Rubaies? I reserved at Ninho -- which sounds great -- but it's the last accom after the climb so I worry whether I'll be so beat that I should stop at the first albergue.
Which luggage transport did you use? I have "ok" to my itinerary with Caminofácil and Tuitrans but haven't committed to either.
Heaviness of rain: an observation that perhaps I should carry by big, bulky Altus rather than just a rain jacket. Do you think the rain is heavier on the coast because of the wind?

We stayed at Casa das Lagas which is a little closer, but Ninho is reachable. We ate at a little trailside cafe (Roullote) before Rubiaes for a pick-me up. We're carrying our own bags, so I can't help you with that choice. As far as rain goes, I have a basic (light) poncho, and my wife has a rain jacket. Either has been sufficient so far. The heaviest rain has been overnight rather than while we have been walking. It's supposed to be rainy again for the rest of the week, so I'll let you know if I change my mind later.

 

[Noel & Annie J]

If you have time take a tour of the Catedral de Santa, Great views from the roof (stairs in South West corner) and garden looking over Minho.

It has been great today. Thanks for the tip.

 

[design4life]

We stayed at Casa das Lagas which is a little closer, but Ninho is reachable. We ate at a little trailside cafe (Roullote) before Rubiaes for a pick-me up. We're carrying our own bags, so I can't help you with that choice. As far as rain goes, I have a basic (light) poncho, and my wife has a rain jacket. Either has been sufficient so far. The heaviest rain has been overnight rather than while we have been walking. It's supposed to be rainy again for the rest of the week, so I'll let you know if I change my mind later.

Thanks so much @Noel & Annie J . I have direct "on my honor" bookings at both Ninho and Casa das Lagas so I'm trying to toss a coin before I leave for Portugal to give the owner a fair chance to re-rent. I'm traveling alone so Ninho looks like it has a welcome communal feel after a long day. The rain is also a coin toss -- I remember slogging through the downpour from Sarria to Santiago 4 years ago.

 

[Susan Peacock]

Thanks so much @Noel & Annie J . I have direct "on my honor" bookings at both Ninho and Casa das Lagas so I'm trying to toss a coin before I leave for Portugal to give the owner a fair chance to re-rent. I'm traveling alone so Ninho looks like it has a welcome communal feel after a long day. The rain is also a coin toss -- I remember slogging through the downpour from Sarria to Santiago 4 years ago.

I can't speak to Casa das Lagas but I have stayed in Ninho twice and was happy. They were very nice, had a washer and dryer (a bonus) and we walked down the road to the restaurant. All was good.

 

[Noel & Annie J]

I can't speak to Casa das Lagas but I have stayed in Ninho twice and was happy. They were very nice, had a washer and dryer (a bonus) and we walked down the road to the restaurant. All was good.

Ninho certainly has a great location!

 

[Noel & Annie J]

The Jensen's hit the Way this morning at 7:45h with O Porriño as our goal. We're both suffering some lower limb discomfort so we opted for the shorter, industrial path through O Porriño. It ended up being the wrong choice based on the location of our accommodations as well as being less scenic. Unless you have a definite reason, go left at the O Porriño fork.

We did backtrack a little to get off the road and walked all the way to Veigedaña, where we had a nice pilgrim lunch plate. (My wife rates this as her favorite Camino meal.) Our host (Pension Mosende) picked us up after lunch and is returning us tomorrow so we can start walking again at the same.

As long as you take the scenic bypass, this segment is generally a nice country walk, some ups and downs but nothing too bad. The support--bars and cafes--is also quite good. The weather has been partly cloudy with pleasant temperatures for walking.

 

[Ho ming chan]

The Jensen's hit the Way this morning at 7:45h with O Porriño as our goal. We're both suffering some lower limb discomfort so we opted for the shorter, industrial path through O Porriño. It ended up being the wrong choice based on the location of our accommodations as well as being less scenic. Unless you have a definite reason, go left at the O Porriño fork.

We did backtrack a little to get off the road and walked all the way to Veigedaña, where we had a nice pilgrim lunch plate. (My wife rates this as her favorite Camino meal.) Our host (Pension Mosende) picked us up after lunch and is returning us tomorrow so we can start walking again at the same.

As long as you take the scenic bypass, this segment is generally a nice country walk, some ups and downs but nothing too bad. The support--bars and cafes--is also quite good. The weather has been partly cloudy with pleasant temperatures for walking. View attachment 123088

Hope u two have a good day of rest.

 

[auburnfive]

Today I walked from Matosinhos to Vila do Conde, mostly along the coast, beautiful walk, small number of pilgrims. Very high winds, I ended up going inland towards the end to avoid being sandblasted, the wind lessened considerably away from the coast.

 

[Noel & Annie J]

Day 11: Redondela to Pontevedra (Peregrino Albergue) — there’s a storm moving into the area. Today was cooler and we were rained on for an hour or so. The terrain, again was up and down for most of the day. By the time we hit the “complementario” bypass we were hungry and looking for almuerzo. I’m not sure we got it much earlier since we were almost to Pontevedra before encountering food. The lunch, though, was one of or best. The humor for the day was one of the dishes on the menu…Sautéed green beans with ham…in Spanish is saltiadas judías con jamon. Since I wasn’t familiar with the dish, the waiter used Google translate to tell me that is was sautéed Jews. I told him, “No es correcto.” We finally did get it figured out. More peregrinos every day, but I still wouldn’t call it crowded. Buen camino!

 

[Noel & Annie J]

Today I walked from Matosinhos to Vila do Conde, mostly along the coast, beautiful walk, small number of pilgrims. Very high winds, I ended up going inland towards the end to avoid being sandblasted, the wind lessened considerably away from the coast.

Windy for us yesterday as well, and the temperature was definitely cooler. Today, it’s cloudy and we walked in rain for 30 minutes or so.

 

[kenwilltravel]

More peregrinos every day, but I still wouldn’t call it crowded. Buen camino!

Redondela is where the coastal route merges with the inland, so it's natural to see a pickup in traffic there.

 

[Gii]

Windy for us yesterday as well, and the temperature was definitely cooler. Today, it’s cloudy and we walked in rain for 30 minutes or so.

I too walked in the rain. Not as long as you guys though. I was over prepared and wore two pairs of pants. The rain lasted maybe 10 mins then off and on. I was too hot so I had to change somewhere.
Hopefully better weather for you folks!

 

[Gii]

Redondela is where the coastal route merges with the inland, so it's natural to see a pickup in traffic there.

Ahh. Okay, thanks for the information. I was assuming people aren't here due to the off season and COVID.

 

[Zennor]

Day 11: Redondela to Pontevedra (Peregrino Albergue) — there’s a storm moving into the area. Today was cooler and we were rained on for an hour or so. The terrain, again was up and down for most of the day. By the time we hit the “complementario” bypass we were hungry and looking for almuerzo. I’m not sure we got it much earlier since we were almost to Pontevedra before encountering food. The lunch, though, was one of or best. The humor for the day was one of the dishes on the menu…Sautéed green beans with ham…in Spanish is saltiadas judías con jamon. Since I wasn’t familiar with the dish, the waiter used Google translate to tell me that is was sautéed Jews. I told him, “No es correcto.” We finally did get it figured out. More peregrinos every day, but I still wouldn’t call it crowded. Buen camino!

We'll be doing that walk on Monday and having a rest day in Pontevedra. Weather is looking quite iffy. Am preparing to get pretty wet. Have you decided to do the Variante Spiritual? We will be.
Fortunately I know what Judias are in a menu!

 

[Noel & Annie J]

We'll be doing that walk on Monday. Weather is l

We'll be doing that walk on Monday and having a rest day in Pontevedra. Weather is looking quite iffy. Am preparing to get pretty wet. Have you decided to do the Variante Spiritual? We will be.
Fortunately I know what Judias are in a menu!

We're going to stick with the vanilla route and use our extra day visiting the coast a little farther to the north after Santiago. Buen camino!

 

[design4life]

Day 11: Redondela to Pontevedra (Peregrino Albergue) — there’s a storm moving into the area. Today was cooler and we were rained on for an hour or so. The terrain, again was up and down for most of the day. By the time we hit the “complementario” bypass we were hungry and looking for almuerzo. I’m not sure we got it much earlier since we were almost to Pontevedra before encountering food. The lunch, though, was one of or best. The humor for the day was one of the dishes on the menu…Sautéed green beans with ham…in Spanish is saltiadas judías con jamon. Since I wasn’t familiar with the dish, the waiter used Google translate to tell me that is was sautéed Jews. I told him, “No es correcto.” We finally did get it figured out. More peregrinos every day, but I still wouldn’t call it crowded. Buen camino!

Unfortunately this part of the world had a sad history of sauteing Jews. Weird stuff like this comes up all the time in language - in foods, in street names, etc. I like to think going on Camino is a way of honoring the past, and doing it with a good sense of humor!
As for the rainy forecast for the next week, I'm not thrilled about starting my walk tomorrow morning, but taking it "in stride."
Thanks for your terrific posts!

 

[Former member 22438]

We'll be doing that walk on Monday and having a rest day in Pontevedra. Weather is looking quite iffy. Am preparing to get pretty wet. Have you decided to do the Variante Spiritual? We will be.
Fortunately I know what Judias are in a menu!

Judias verdes Green beans

 

[Noel & Annie J]

Unfortunately this part of the world had a sad history of sauteing Jews. Weird stuff like this comes up all the time in language - in foods, in street names, etc. I like to think going on Camino is a way of honoring the past, and doing it with a good sense of humor!
As for the rainy forecast for the next week, I'm not thrilled about starting my walk tomorrow morning, but taking it "in stride."
Thanks for your terrific posts!

We’ve been blessed on the Way with great weather in spite of the ugly forecasts. I’ll hope the same for you! Buen camino!

 

[Noel & Annie J]

Judias verdes Green beans

Spanish is such an interesting language with all its country-specific variants. I learned my Spanish in South America, so I’m enjoying the “th” here in Spain.

 

[Former member 22438]

Spanish is such an interesting language with all its country-specific variants. I learned my Spanish in South America, so I’m enjoying the “th” here in Spain.

The “ Spanish” in Spain is called “ Castillano “ and indeed there are different dialects .
the Castillano is rapidly spoken , south American Spanish is much more relaxed.Same with Portuguese from Portugal compared to e.g.Portuguese from Brasil.
This makes studying languages interesting.And languages develop and change all the time.

 

[Ho ming chan]

Ahh. Okay, thanks for the information. I was assuming people aren't here due to the off season and COVID.

At Caminha, one can switch to inland route towards Valenca via the Ecovia (a newer walk along the river).

 

[Ho ming chan]

Unfortunately this part of the world had a sad history of sauteing Jews. Weird stuff like this comes up all the time in language - in foods, in street names, etc. I like to think going on Camino is a way of honoring the past, and doing it with a good sense of humor!
As for the rainy forecast for the next week, I'm not thrilled about starting my walk tomorrow morning, but taking it "in stride."
Thanks for your terrific posts!

Weather forecast is one thing, actual event likely will be different. And weather pattern in that area is affected by a v large water body. Back in mud march, I got first day of pouring rain then unusually dry for the next 9 days. So true, take it in stride and enjoy. Bad weather makes the lunch stop indoor much more enjoyable.

 

[Noel & Annie J]

The “ Spanish” in Spain is called “ Castillano “ and indeed there are different dialects .
the Castillano is rapidly spoken , south American Spanish is much more relaxed.Same with Portuguese from Portugal compared to e.g.Portuguese from Brasil.
This makes studying languages interesting.And languages develop and change all the time.

We learned our Spanish in Chile. We lived at the southern-most border of the historic Spanish South American Empire. The conquistadors in that area were slaughtered by the Mapuche shortly after their arrival In the 1600s. The Incas also didn’t make in any farther. The Spanish is famously bad in Chile, but interesting enough when a Chilean would ask if I spoke Spanish, he would say “Habla Castillano?”

 

[Noel & Annie J]

Weather forecast is one thing, actual event likely will be different. And weather pattern in that area is affected by a v large water body. Back in mud march, I got first day of pouring rain then unusually dry for the next 9 days. So true, take it in stride and enjoy. Bad weather makes the lunch stop indoor much more enjoyable.

Today was a bad forecast, but ended up being a great day for walking!

 

[Noel & Annie J]

Day 12: Pontevedra - Caldas de Reis. This was a very pleasant 20 km walk with a few gentle ups and downs. In spite of a soggy (90% chance of rain) forecast, I needed my poncho for less than 30 minutes. Just past the halfway point, we ate lunch at the O’ Eira Taperia. (My wife rates this as the best food on the Caminho and suggests that everybody try the wonderful mixed salad.) We did really enjoy the lunches on both sides of Pontevedra—yesterday on the way here and today on the way out.

We enjoyed Pontevedra for both the scenery and the shopping. Lots of good stores if you need to pick something up.

 

[jlamont808]

Day 12: Pontevedra - Caldas de Reis. This was a very pleasant 20 km walk with a few gentle ups and downs. In spite of a soggy (90% chance of rain) forecast, I needed my poncho for less than 30 minutes. Just past the halfway point, we ate lunch at the O’ Eira Taperia. (My wife rates this as the best food on the Caminho and suggests that everybody try the wonderful mixed salad.) We did really enjoy the lunches on both sides of Pontevedra—yesterday on the way here and today on the way out.

We enjoyed Pontevedra for both the scenery and the shopping. Lots of good stores if you need to pick something up.

Headed in your footsteps May 15, thank you for your posts!! And thank you for the food recommendations, we are foodies, too.

 

[Former member 22438]

We learned our Spanish in Chile. We lived at the southern-most border of the historic Spanish South American Empire. The conquistadors in that area were slaughtered by the Mapuche shortly after their arrival In the 1600s. The Incas also didn’t make in any farther. The Spanish is famously bad in Chile, but interesting enough when a Chilean would ask if I spoke Spanish, he would say “Habla Castillano?”

We have been once in Chile, cruised from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia and Punta Arenas to Valparaiso and Santiago de Chile.
As I worked by then in Catalunya I found it easy to understand the Chileneans .
I loved the country and we only have seen half of it.

 

[Noel & Annie J]

We have been once in Chile, cruised from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia and Punta Arenas to Valparaiso and Santiago de Chile.
As I worked by then in Catalunya I found it easy to understand the Chileneans .
I loved the country and we only have seen half of it.

It is a beautiful country, and the people are so, so nice.

 

[Noel & Annie J]

Headed in your footsteps May 15, thank you for your posts!! And thank you for the food recommendations, we are foodies, too.

I'll post some more info on our best of Caminho meals in a summary entry later. Best wishes for a bon caminho!

 

[dreaminggypsy]

Good to know. How about the boat arrangements. My guide book makes it sound sketchy. Any insight?

The boat ride was perfect. We loved the Spiritual Variant.

 

[Noel & Annie J]

Day 13: Caldas de Reis to Iria Flavia (20 km). We went a little longer today in order to shorten the walk tomorrow. We're staying In a nice little cottage all on our own. (We'd like to catch up on a little sleep as well in this quieter, peaceful location.) The terrain today was the norm for Galicia, meaning up and down sections connected by comfortable level walks. The support--eating establishments--is plentiful. The weather was also brilliant in spite of a dismal forecast. Buen camino!

 

[JLV]

I learned my spanish in Lima, Peru. Also I married a beautiful Peruana. We honey mooned in Chile.

Santiago, Valparaiso, Vina del mar, We loved it

 

[Noel & Annie J]

I learned my spanish in Lima, Peru. Also I married a beautiful Peruana. We honey mooned in Chile.

Santiago, Valparaiso, Vina del mar, We loved it

We were able to spend some time in Peru while we were in South America. We loved the food, the history, and the Spanish there.

 

[Former member 22438]

It is a beautiful country, and the people are so, so nice.

Interesting that you lived there
see now that you live in the Netherlands. Ik ook

 

[Noel & Annie J]

Interesting that you lived there
see now that you live in the Netherlands. Ik ook

Ja, ik zag het in de video met Ivar. Ik heb meer moeite met het leren van Nederlands dan met Spaans!

 

[Noel & Annie J]

Day 14: Iria Flavia - Santiago (20 km) We finally made it! Our check in today—at 18h—was the latest yet. The highlights today were 1) a stop at the beautiful chapel in A Escravitude—El Sanatario de Nuestra Señora de la Esclavitud—with a ornate baroque altar and a sello, 2) a therapeutic ankle soaking in a cold water rest stop, 3) a Turkish kebab for dinner, and 4) our first sighting of the Cathedral in Santiago. The terrain again was up, down, and level with one decent uphill section. The weather was perfect for hiking. It was consistently overcast today, which meant less “wardrobe“ changes were necessary. We also only experienced 15-30 of rain. The biggest difference today were the number of bicycles sharing the Camino. They’ll surprise you on the downhills, where they’re able to overtake you suddenly and then fly by.

Bom caminho fellow peregrinos and “May the sun shine warm upon your face; the rains fall soft upon your fields and until we meet again, may God hold you in the palm of His hand.”

 

[LRH]

We’ve spent a wonderful day in Porto. We arrived yesterday via the IC from Lisbon. We got of the train at Vila de Nova Gaia and walked (5 km) to our accommodations in Porto. We’re at the Hostel Alegria which seems to be the highest point around. Everywhere we went today was downhill. Tomorrow, we’re planning to walk to Vila de Conde along the Coastal Route. The forecast is rain for the next couple of days. Today, though, it’s been 20 and sunny.

We collected our stamp at the Cathedral yesterday and will try to grab another tomorrow. Wheee!

Buen Camino Noel & Annie!
Planning my second Camino in 2023 and will do the Portugal Coastal route with friends. Will be interested to follow your journey; learn of your experiences; and live vicariously through your pilgrimage. Enjoy!

 

[Former member 22438]

Ja, ik zag het in de video met Ivar. Ik heb meer moeite met het leren van Nederlands dan met Spaans!

You are not Dutch originally ? Depends from which language you start learning Dutch
I am a volunteer teacher in Dutch here in the region I live ( Goeree Overflakkee) and help a Brazilean and a Portuguese lady learning Dutch For them it is hard to learn it.
and I help a lady from London and for her it is easier because English and Dutch have a lot in common.

 

[Airfix]

Day 12: Pontevedra - Caldas de Reis. This was a very pleasant 20 km walk with a few gentle ups and downs. In spite of a soggy (90% chance of rain) forecast, I needed my poncho for less than 30 minutes. Just past the halfway point, we ate lunch at the O’ Eira Taperia. (My wife rates this as the best food on the Caminho and suggests that everybody try the wonderful mixed salad.) We did really enjoy the lunches on both sides of Pontevedra—yesterday on the way here and today on the way out.

We enjoyed Pontevedra for both the scenery and the shopping. Lots of good stores if you need to pick something up.

Thanks for the thread Noel & Annie, most enjoyable and definitely heightened our anticipation ready for our Portuguese Coastal Camino starting next month.
We were lucky enough to walk the central route from Porto last September and enjoyed it so much we decided to return this year.
For anyone reading this thread one diversion to consider is the short walk (500 metres) to the waterfalls at Parque Natural Dr Ria Barosa, about 7 km before Caldas de Reis. A beautiful natural location not to be missed.
Buen Camino.

 

[PNeer]

Loved following your journey and anticipate your "best of" suggestions to come. I will be following your path in September. Thank you

 

[Noel & Annie J]

You are not Dutch originally ? Depends from which language you start learning Dutch
I am a volunteer teacher in Dutch here in the region I live ( Goeree Overflakkee) and help a Brazilean and a Portuguese lady learning Dutch For them it is hard to learn it.
and I help a lady from London and for her it is easier because English and Dutch have a lot in common.

We’re Americans, so our original tongue is that form of English. We also both speak German and Spanish. I thought the German would be a little helpful, but it hasn’t helped much so far.

 

[HSkogerson]

We’ve spent a wonderful day in Porto. We arrived yesterday via the IC from Lisbon. We got of the train at Vila de Nova Gaia and walked (5 km) to our accommodations in Porto. We’re at the Hostel Alegria which seems to be the highest point around. Everywhere we went today was downhill. Tomorrow, we’re planning to walk to Vila de Conde along the Coastal Route. The forecast is rain for the next couple of days. Today, though, it’s been 20 and sunny.

We collected our stamp at the Cathedral yesterday and will try to grab another tomorrow. Wheee!

Have an amazing time! We did this same route in May along the coast and into Spain four years ago with our two sons ages 11 and 14 years at the time. It was magical, challenging, memorable and such a blessing. A time we will never forget. Enjoy!!!

 

[Noel & Annie J]

Have an amazing time! We did this same route in May along the coast and into Spain four years ago with our two sons ages 11 and 14 years at the time. It was magical, challenging, memorable and such a blessing. A time we will never forget. Enjoy!!!

We finished our Camino last Sunday. Next up for us will be a walk along Hadrian's Wall in the north of England.