LIVE from the Camino Live from Camino del Norte, followed by Camino Inglés!

[Caminogoat]

Hello, finally after 2 years of waiting, I will be walking the Norte. Flying into Madrid on 10/12. I will keep you posted. Please pray for me. BTY, I purchased a new app called Guthook. I like its hybrid map that gives me a 3-dimential areal views. If this map is accurate, I will never get lost. I called several of the lodgings I liked in 2019, but sadly quite a few of them were no longer in business.

 

[ItAintARace]

We start the 17th from Irún, go get em. I’ll be on the lookout for a goat with a plurality of colors.

 

[Bob from L.A. !]

I purchased a new app called Guthook. I like its hybrid map that gives me a 3-dimential areal views. If this map is accurate, I will never get lost.

I have used Guthook in the past and have found them to always be accurate.

 

[Caminogoat]

We start the 17th from Irún, go get em. I’ll be on the lookout for a goat with a plurality of colors.

Oh hello, I am slow as a turtle, or more like a snail. Once I met naked snails on the Camino, and was very concerned about their wellbeing because I knew a bunch of French were on their way. I prayed very hard for those snails, whom I feel kinship to, would cross the road before the French group encountered them and viewed them as a good lunch. Anyway, because I am so slow, our paths might cross somewhere. BTY, getting a QR code from QR-SpTH was cumbersome. Entering a local address was difficult because they did not list all the autonomous region-Basque was missing. I ended up listing Oviedo instead of San Sebastian. The friendly goat wishes you a Buen Camino!

 

[ItAintARace]

Oh hello, I am slow as a turtle, or more like a snail. Once I met naked snails on the Camino, and was very concerned about their wellbeing because I knew a bunch of French were on their way. I prayed very hard for those snails, whom I feel kinship to, would cross the road before the French group encountered them and viewed them as a good lunch. Anyway, because I am so slow, our paths might cross somewhere. BTY, getting a QR code from QR-SpTH was cumbersome. Entering a local address was difficult because they did not list all the autonomous region-Basque was missing. I ended up listing Oviedo instead of San Sebastian. The friendly goat wishes you a Buen Camino!

As we are 2 and I am hairy, we will be easy to espy.

 

[mspath]

Oh hello, I am slow as a turtle, or more like a snail. Once I met naked snails on the Camino, and was very concerned about their wellbeing because I knew a bunch of French were on their way. I prayed very hard for those snails, whom I feel kinship to, would cross the road before the French group encountered them and viewed them as a good lunch. Anyway, because I am so slow, our paths might cross somewhere. BTY, getting a QR code from QR-SpTH was cumbersome. Entering a local address was difficult because they did not list all the autonomous region-Basque was missing. I ended up listing Oviedo instead of San Sebastian. The friendly goat wishes you a Buen Camino!

Mera,
Many of us who have walked in the past are, indeed, snails !
You must be very excited now that you are setting off. Please do report on the conditions along the way.
Carpe diem and Buen camino!

 

[Caminogoat]

Mera,
Many of us who have walked in the past are, indeed, snails !
You must be very excited now that you are setting off. Please do report on the conditions along the way.
Carpe diem and Buen camino!

Thank you for your encouragement. I will post as much as I can. Although I am not really sure how to do that correctly. I am not sure if I am doing it right. I am heading out to get COVID test because vaccinated people don't need it to enter Spain but need negative test result to fly domestically. I plan on taking an ALSA at T4 terminal but wanted to have that option open.
Mera

 

[mspath]

Mera,
Thanks for your update.
I agree it is best to be prepared. One never knows exactly what proof will be needed and when.
I hope that you were bemused/amused by the snail tale hot link above.

Margaret

PS. The snails we eat here in France are not the same as you see on pavements.

 

[Caminogoat]

Margaret,
Once, while walking along the river Seine, decided to order some food, escargots of course. I love them here in the States. I got greedy and ordered 2 dozens, thinking they were going to be tiny and would be in butter and cheese like how they serve in the United States. To my very big surprise, they all came in their own shells and each one was so HUGE that I could actually make out their eyes, mouth, especially two long antennas. Not wanting to lose my face, I mustered enough courage to eat them all but felt a bit queasy afterwards. Soon after returning home I started seeing them in my dreams occasionally. In my dream they were all alive, chasing after me. It was good thing that I could run a bit faster than the snails. I stopped ordering them for a while, about 2 years, but now I am completely recovered. I enjoy them occasionally.

COVID test was painless because I made a reservation yesterday. They wanted to push 30-minute-result rapid PCR test but I asked for a regular PCR-takes 24 hours to get the result on my phone. Heading out to the airport. I was somewhat apprehensive due to COVID situation; however, as it gets closer I remembered all the joy on the Camino, now I recovered my usual enthusiasm. Mera

 

[Caminogoat]

Arrived in Madrid around 8 am. I knew there was a bus to San Sebastian leaving around 9 am but did not buy a ticket in advance because I didn't want to worry about missing it due to a flight delay. It turned out that I had a plenty time to catch it except it was sold out. The next bus was at 1:30 pm. Instead of hanging around for 5 hours at the airport I took a taxi to Chamartin train station only to find out the best possible option was departing from Principe Pio train station. Of course I took another taxi there. It left at 12:25 pm. Just before San Sebastian, all the passingers had to get off and continue the trip by a bus due to track repairs. Took another taxi to a lodging, which was on the Camino. After a plane, taxi, train, and bus, I am on the Camino. Except it occured to me that I had not eaten anything the whole day. It just so happened that the hotel I checked in does not serve dinner Moreover, the nearest restaurant was 30-minute-walk away. I begged for anything edible. They kindly came up with some bread, butter, ham and a bottle of local wine. I asked them a glass, but they said they only sell by a bottle , honest! The bread came frozen, fresh out of a freezer but eventually thowed enough to cut through with my teeth. Whew!

 

[Caminogoat]

My dinner.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

My dinner.

A lot of wine for such a little bit of food. Don’t get hung over.

 

[Bob from L.A. !]

So then you are saying you are off to a good start!

 

[Caminogoat]

I am up at 5 am all refreshed, no hangover.

Something like last night happened once on the CF. My daughter can stay up late but can't waka up early. I still don't know how she managed to finish her degree. She always started late and arrived late. I forget where it was but there was a place with just one bar/restaurant in town. When she finally showed up late I told her just take a shower and do the laundry later. If any of you out there think that she listened to me, you have better children than I, ones with more common sense. By the time we made it to the restaurant, everything edible was gone, not even a piece of bread was left. The bar was filled with happy and content people with full tummy now even happier with more drinking. I learned what it was like to go to bed hungry after walking 20 miles. My daughter not only learned what it was like to go to bed hungry but also realized that her mother could kill when hungry. BTY, did I mention that the COVID procedure at the Madrid airport was super simple? They just scanned my QR code, no fever check unless they were scanning some other way. Yesterday on the train there were only two people that looked like peregrinos.

This friendly drinking goat is off to start the Camino with a heart filled with joy. Hope you all have a great day. A lovely clock at the hotel.

 

[mspath]

Mera,
Hope you have good weather for your first day of walking. Looking forward to reading your next posted update.
Eat well and Carpe diem.

 

[Caminogoat]

Hello Peregrinos, as if to be compensated for last night's poor dinner, I was treated to a lovely breakfast with a view. It was simple but good quality food and excellent coffee. I usually don't find cafe con leche very good, and Cafe Americano isn't much better either but the coffee this morning was super. And the views, which was the reason for choosing this place, were just lovely.

 

[Caminogoat]

So, having had taken a taxi last night, I took a bus back to San Sebastian old town, farther end of la Playa de la Concha, which the city is known for. I intended to visit Museo de San Telmo and San Vicente churche, then start my Camino. When I did el Norte, in 2019, I just walked through the city hurridly thinking the city was just a tourist attraction. I was much more interested in visiting the Altamira Cave. However, once I started seeing the exibits, I got into it so much that I didn't get out until the afternoon. Usually I get easily overwhelmed by museums in big cities like Paris, London, Madrid, Amsterdam etc., probably because I don't know much about fine arts. This one was different. Small enough yet interesting enough. Those who are interested in can download STM app or visit their website and digitally explore it. I could very easily understand and relate to the exibits about Basque way of life and history. Especially the exibit about Masellan's voyage: truly brave people who endured unthinkables. Compare to this Shaklton's failed expolration didn't seem so bad. At least they had penguins and fish to eat. Most advantageous of all, Shaklton's crew had unlimited supply of water.

 

[Caminogoat]

After the museum I continued to walk all over. Do you see the Christ Statue on top of far righthand and a castle-like structure on the far left? Well if you don't see them, just Google the city please. I climed to see both, walking one end to the other. I enjoyed today's outing.

 

[Caminogoat]

I got tired. I just came back to the same hotel. I wanted to check out so I can leave early tomorrow. I told them no breakfast for me tomorrow, but when I found out that 40 Euros for each night included that lovely breakfast, I changed to "yes breakfast." I figured Getaria can wait. I will get there eventually.

 

[Caminogoat]

I saw only one peregrino today the entire time. The weather is very fine, a great temperature to walk, like San Fransisco in the fall.

 

[Caminogoat]

My first full day of Camino: from San Sebastian to Getaria. The weather is around lower 70's, just a wonderful temperature. After walking only about 30 minutes,I could feel that my lungs were getting filled with oxgeon. Sense of wellbeing and joy of being alive were also abundantly clear. The difficult part was being re-introduced to my backpack. After neglecting it for two years, it wasn't making things easy for me. I used to just swing it to my back and then literally just pulled the right strings to get the best possible posture and the weigh distribution. This morning I struggled quite a bit to make it work. Nevertheless I am so fortunate to be able to do this. Everything else is just a minor glitch. I am sincerely thankful to my husband who is watering our plants in addition to feeding a spider who just showed up from nowhere and decided to build a web in my orchid pot. The web is usually empty as we live in a highrise. I started finding a dead gnats, which I also don't know how or why come to our condo and die, and put it in it's web.

 

[Caminogoat]

My good deed of the day was opening a chesnut for local chipmunks.

 

[Caminogoat]

BTY from my point of view,, the reasons that nobody ever try to take anything from the peregrinos are: we stink too much to come near; unstrapping a peregrino/a from his or her backpack is a near impossible task: even if the backpack is detached it is too unpleasant to go through the poorly washed stinky clothes.

 

[Caminogoat]

Near Zaraus, just when the Camino starting to decend, across the camping ground I followed a good smell and found a delighful lunch. A first decent meal since my arrival. First they wanted to chase me away saying that they don't have a "pilgrim lunch". I had to do some serious convincing talk to pursuade them that I will order from their menu. The wonderful food came with free views.

 

[Caminogoat]

The people at the next table were having something that looked even more tastier than mine. I asked a permission to take photos. And here they are. They said I could take a bite if I wanted to. How nice!

 

[Caminogoat]

Made it to Getaria and checked into the same pension where I stayed before. I was so looking forward to seeing the kind elderly owner again only to find out that she passed away last year. Her daughter took it over. The place looked the same from the outside but the impeccable cleaness was no more.

 

[norelle]

Do you mind sharing the name of the pension? It looks lovely!

 

[Caminogoat]

Pension Iribar. Perhaps because the previous owner has passed away and the new owner is busy with her restaurant, I don't feel this place is special any longer. The bathroom tiles were moldy. I was rather disappointed. However the restaurants here are serving good foods.

I stop here partially because I am not keen to hectic atmospher of Zaraus and mainly because of town's historic significance in seafaring. Getaria is one of the oldest towns in the province, forned second half of the 12th century. The following is from the Wikipedia:
"Getaria is known for being Juan Sebastián Elcano’s hometown, a seaman well-known for being the first man to circumnavigate the earth. He was captain of the Nao Victoria, the one ship in Magellan's ill-fated fleet which completed the voyage. Today, Getaria is also famous for its restaurants serving grilled fish and a white wine with a protected designation of origin which is cultivated in the surroundings of this coastal town and takes the name of Getariako Txakolina. Moreover, the Cristobal Balenciaga Museum is also located in this village.
its most famous sons are Juan Sebastián Elcano, captain of the Nao Victoria, Admiral Miguel de Oquendo,[citation needed] who commanded the Guipúzcoa Squadron of the Spanish Armada, the explorer Domingo de Bonechea, and the couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga Eizaguirre.

In May 2012, a two-man team from Getaria won Google's "Model Your Town" competition by creating a complete 3D representation of their hometown.[2]"

Ok, let me be more honest. Those grilled fish and other sea foods they serve here are to die for. Every restaurant has BBQ grill outside. Starting at 8 pm, the whole town is filled with irrigistable good smell.

​

 

[Caminogoat]

Yesterday a lot happened and I hope to post it someday. Today, I had a 9-hour day and just got in about half an hour ago. Staying in a small pension with a lovely view. Nothing was available in Markina-Xemein so I ended walking another 3 miles for a room outside the Camino route..

The upside is that I got in so late, I can now go to a restaurant and eat in. The downside is that the hotel I stayed last night was really lively and I miss it, although also Camino route.

 

[Caminogoat]

Just got back to my room. Tha little bamboo garden looks even more lovelier with light.

 

[Caminogoat]

The gatherer: I thought that I would be checking in at an odd hour for dinner so I gathered some food along the way. A cookey and a pastry from the breakfast table that I shamelessly took, and chestnuts along the way. I tasted one and found out that they were sweet and juicy, in addition to being totally organic. So perhaps there are local squerrels going to bed hungry tonight. My bad.

 

[Caminogoat]

Some updates on my equipment. The chest strap which releases a lot of pressure off of my shoulder, broke yesterday. Lucky I had an extra strap, which I use to strap my hiking umbrella to my backpack. I hand-knotted it hoping that it will do the job for now but it keep getting loose. When I arrive in Bilbao, i will have to find an outdoor store to see if there is something that can fix it. My new liner soxes are working great. The ones I had before contained cotton, which gave me some sore spots. I had to use compeed to those spots every morning to prevent blisters. The new ones are made from some kind of fast- drying synthetic materials. They are soft, keep my toes dry so I don't have to air my feet out often. I love them. Of course the cool temperature is making everything easier.

 

[Caminogoat]

Got up early this morning to find a place in advance. Since Guernika is a good-size city there should be a room but wanted to do some research to find a quiet one. Also there will be other ethnic restaurants other than Spanish. Hooray!

 

[Caminogoat]

Some photos from yesterday.

 

[Caminogoat]

Some parts were stckey thanks to a tractor. Some gate appeared completely shut scaring me.

 

[Caminogoat]

Some photos from the day before yesterday taken from the Playa de Xagoneta where not only I got lost but also fell off the cliff. It was still worth detouring (since I eventually made it back alive) to see such a wonderous slight. I was awe struck.

 

[Bob from L.A. !]

You stayed at Txomin? I have also. Very clean little place with a really nice couple who run it.

 

[Caminogoat]

Yeah, and has a nice bamboo gsrden.

 

[Caminogoat]

Markina Xemein to Guernika was rather difficult with not much beauty to talk about. Wanted to avoid crowded Guernika on Sunday so found a country lodging about 2 Kilometers away from the center: a lovely place.

 

[Caminogoat]

After walking around the farm I realized the place was not what a passing outsider might quickly conclude. The fields were messy crops were dying, the dog was lethegic and seemed depressed, perhaps the dirty water bowl is an indication of his busy owner and the capasity of attention giving. If I just drove by this house, I would have thought the farm was an ideal place. In actuality the young couple with two kids appeared to be tired and overworked. He said he gets help only occasionally. They don't live in the lovely building. They live in a tiny place right next to it.

 

[Caminogoat]

Oh by the way in my previous posting did I say that I fell off the cliff?? So sorry I meant to say that I "almost fell off the cliff". After la Playa de Xakoneta, there were no way markers to make it back to the Camino. Well it's not a place usually visited by peregrinos. I headed toward the general direction of the Camino, hoping that I will eventually meet someone or something. The narrow path seemed well traveled so I was confidenr that it will lead to somewhere. It kept going up and toward the cliff and the ocean. I though may be if I just make it up to the top of the mountain, there will be a road or at least I can figure something out. I should have suspected something when I saw a lot of sheep/goat droppings on that very narrow path. I am an orientation challanged person. Whether I drive or walk I tent to just keep on going straight: usually to the wrong way. The path eventually ended at the cliff thinly veiled by some bush. Literally one more step would have been a dive or more like a tumbling down to the sea. This path was made by sheep, perfectly fine for them but not to be traveled by a human especially someone like me with a big backpack. I will attach the Xakoneta map here for you to see so you can get an idea. I started from S14 and got lost after S2. One good thing out of it is a good areal photo from the top.

 

[OzAnnie]

Looks like a pleasant ‘wander’ @Mera
Glad the sheep made sure you didn’t go too close to the edge. Gorgeous pic you managed to get from it though.
Take care
Buen camino.

 

[Caminogoat]

Thank you. I am just glad and thank God nothing happened . It was worth visiting though. Not only to see the Flysch but also the park itself was pictureque. Just don't follow any narrow path with animal droppings. For F.Y.I., please Google or do something similar.

 

[peregrina2000]

. It was worth visiting though. Not only to see the Flysch but also the park itself was pictureque.

Beautiful pictures!

For anyone who is tempted to go see this beautiful section of coast — the ruta del Flysch is a trail that connects Zumaia with Deba. So you can skip the official camino and still get from Zumaia to Deba. Every local in Zumaia can point you to the start of the route and there are many good tracks on wikiloc.com.

The “coastal alternatives to the Norte’s asphalt” thread has more info and other ways to get off the asphalt and enjoy the coastline. The camino so often tracks alongside the highway while the coast with its gorgeous paths is just a few km away.

 

[Caminogoat]

So far yesterday, I saw only 6 pilgrims: 2 Brazilians, and 4 Spaniyards. One of them told me there is one young Korean guy but I've never seen him. Probably at leasr 20 miles ahead somewhere

 

[Caminogoat]

Today, Guernika to Bilbao had too many whenever I saw a dirt road. I was going to find a lunch in Lezama. At the enterance of the village I saw a lady and two men talking to each other. I asked them if there was a good restaurant, and please recommend me one. They started discussing amongst themselves and soon it turned into a heated discussion. I could see that the lady was clearly in control. Finally the two men obediently nodded their heads and the lady solumely announced with a straight face: "Such and such have good foods but you can't eat there." I was totally confused but mustered up enough courage to meekly ask the reason why. All three said in unison that all the restaurants in Lezama are closed on Mondays. Yes, today is Monday! I had no choice but to walk another 3 miles to Zamudio. I found some berries on the way to tie me over. I saw relatives of those goats who made that misleading trail in la Playa de Xakoneta. Goats are stronger suspect than ship because only goats will go so close to the narrow edgy.

 

[Caminogoat]

I met a Croatian pilgrim at a laundromat this morning in Guernika. She is traveling with her partner who injured his or her foot. Together we figured out how to operate her washer and my drier. Mine was washed yesterday but still damp. BTY, wearing the completely dry clothes out of the drier was heavely. I brought 3 pairs of socks but only two pairs of everything. More often than not, I end up wearing something damp in the morning, sort of becoming a walking drier. I think I will hug and kiss my washer and drier first before anyone else when I return. Adriana the Croatian pilgrim was torn between going to a pharmacy and staying and watching her clothes. I assured her that nobody would want our clothes. She readily agreed.

 

[OzAnnie]

I see you found a meal of fruit (kiwi fruit vine & blackberries.. yum) on monday - the day all the restaurants were close in Lezama ..
… it would have been hard not to show disappointment when they were choosing best recommendations for a place to eat — and to be followed by the msg that : oh but they are closed on Monday.
Enjoying your posts.
Buen camino.

 

[keith duke scott]

Today, Guernika to Bilbao had too many whenever I saw a dirt road. I was going to find a lunch in Lezama. At the enterance of the village I saw a lady and two men talking to each other. I asked them if there was a good restaurant, and please recommend me one. They started discussing amongst themselves and soon it turned into a heated discussion. I could see that the lady was clearly in control. Finally the two men obediently nodded their heads and the lady solumely announced with a straight face: "Such and such have good foods but you can't eat there." I was totally confused but mustered up enough courage to meekly ask the reason why. All three said in unison that all the restaurants in Lezama are closed on Mondays. Yes, today is Monday! I had no choice but to walk another 3 miles to Zamudio. I found some berries on the way to tie me over. I saw relatives of those goats who made that misleading trail in la Playa de Xakoneta. Goats are stronger suspect than ship because only goats will go so close to the narrow edgy.

Hi Mera
I must admit that I think you have the making of a very interesting and hilarious book about your csmino. Each story makes me smile.
Regarding your story about Mondays restaurants being closed, I brought a large jug of peanut butter for those days when food is limited. It saved me on my than one occasion and many other pilgrims were very interested to share sone with me. It was a good conversation starter for sure. I was doingvthe Norte at the time and oddly I had a hard time finding more peanut butter when I ran out.
Please keep posting and buen camino

 

[Caminogoat]

Hi Mera
I must admit that I think you have the making of a very interesting and hilarious book about your csmino. Each story makes me smile.
Regarding your story about Mondays restaurants being closed, I brought a large jug of peanut butter for those days when food is limited. It saved me on my than one occasion and many other pilgrims were very interested to share sone with me. It was a good conversation starter for sure. I was doingvthe Norte at the time and oddly I had a hard time finding more peanut butter when I ran out.
Please keep posting and

I see you found a meal of fruit (kiwi fruit vine & blackberries.. yum) on monday - the day all the restaurants were close in Lezama ..
… it would have been hard not to show disappointment when they were choosing best recommendations for a place to eat — and to be followed by the msg that : oh but they are closed on Monday.
Enjoying your posts.
Buen camino.

Hi OzAnnie, yes I was surprised to see kiwi growing in Spain. I always thought that kiwis (fruits) were grown by Kiwis(the ever so lovely New Zelanders) who live with kiwis(the birds). I was lucky to see live kiwis for the first time when I visited the National Kiwi Hatchery at the Rainbow Springs. They showed a movie about their concervation efforts They train dogs to find eggs, hatch them, and release them when sufficiently grown. They are so cute in their very own and unique ways. Thanks for reading my post.
P.S. I ate the berries but didn't touch kiwis. I once read somewhere that you can eat if fruits are on the ground but never to touch anything still hanging on the trees or vines

.​

 

[Caminogoat]

Hi Mera
I must admit that I think you have the making of a very interesting and hilarious book about your csmino. Each story makes me smile.
Regarding your story about Mondays restaurants being closed, I brought a large jug of peanut butter for those days when food is limited. It saved me on my than one occasion and many other pilgrims were very interested to share sone with me. It was a good conversation starter for sure. I was doingvthe Norte at the time and oddly I had a hard time finding more peanut butter when I ran out.
Please keep posting and buen camino

You carried a jar of penut butter? That is amazing, Yummy.

 

[Caminogoat]

Today supposed to be a short and easy day to Portugalete. Instead of taking the traditional way, I decided to just walk along the river all the way. Still only half awake, I went into a cafe and ordered chorizos and hot chocolate. The waiter was incredulous and looked quite confused. I didn't understand why but not easily detered, I patiently (please note that Koreans are not known for this virtue and I am a pure Korean born and raised there ) explained to him, with my broken Spanish and very lively hand gestures, that I wanted to deep chorizos in the hot cholate and eat them. The waiter had even more confused and pained look, like the first photo here. Finally he turned to a young man who spoke English but looked reluctant to get involved in any conversation with this pilgrim who is either weired or lost her mind somewhere on the Camino. It turned out what I wanted to order was churros. I admit that I tend to get these two words mixed up. It's not my fault. They both starts with the same sound. Nevertheless the waiter probally felt like telling this pilgrim to go and do the photo number 2.

 

[Caminogoat]

The happy ending.

 

[Caminogoat]

Checked into a hotel with lovely views. Put up my beloved REI clothe line and sun drying.

 

[Caminogoat]

None of us was around when this was used. Right?

 

[Caminogoat]

Perhaps this night view remind you of that famous painting?

 

[Caminogoat]

Today's route wasn't that great. Too many paved roads and dangerous hyways. I felt like this when I finally arrived in Castro Uridiale.

 

[Caminogoat]

When I saw this sign I took the shorter route because I thought it would be lovely to walk wthin the coastal view but it wasn't worth the danger I had to face.

 

[Caminogoat]

Who can think about views when trucks, ALSA buses, and cars are driiving by 70K speed.

 

[Caminogoat]

I am so tired thst I cannot keep my eyes open..

 

[peregrina2000]

When I saw this sign I took the shorter route because I thought it would be lovely to walk wthin the coastal view but it wasn't worth the danger I had to face.

Oh, @Mera,

I don’t know if you have a GPS or if you are interested, but the coastal alternatives thread I linked to above has just what you need. None of them include dangerous highway walking. I don’t specifically know the route you took into Castro Urdiales, but it’s not a coastal alternative that anyone suggested to me.

The stages I list below are all specifically on the Norte (don’t know if you’re going to dip down to Oviedo and the Primitivo) but I have walked all of these. Some contributors to the thread have added accounts of other options they have taken but I can’t comment on those from first hand experience. You might find something to tempt you. I think maybe one of the most popular, though not heavily trafficked, is Santander to Boo. The “official camino” out of Santander is an asphalt slog and has a long stretch alongside the pipelines of a huge chemical facory, if I remember!

These are the alternatives that are specifically coastal and are on the Norte, and still ahead of you

Castro Urdiales to Laredo
Santander to Boo via the coast
La Franca to Llanes
Llanes to Playa del Poo (and beyond)
After La Nueva to Ribadesella
Soto to Cadavedo
La Caridad to Ribadeo

Good luck, get a good rest. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Caminogoat]

Oh how kind of you. Thank you! I will take a look. Yesterday's route was well-marked "official" route. I only saw two pilgrims yesterday that you can see next to the car. Castro Uridiale is beautiful

 

[Caminogoat]

My cellphone charger broke last night. I don't know how people did before the smartphons came along. Suddenly I felt like the whole world turned back to the dark age. I hoped and prayed all night that I could buy a new one. I had to wait till 10 am for the store to open but I did find one. Whew×10!
Exiting Castro Uridiales was pleasant, passing the light house and Iglesia Santa Maria. The very first day of light rain lasted about a half an hour. My poor German hiking umbrella was disappointed.

 

[Caminogoat]

Instead of following the Camino map, I decided to go along the coastine. I hope Spanish government will pay a little more attention to the Camino routes. When there are such beautiful alternatives I don't know why they would send pilgrims through the city pavements and N634 hyways unless they wish to reduce the number of annoying and smelly pilgrims. I sincerely hope that all the Spanish drivers continue to be good drivers. Also may Spanish mechanics continue to keep eyes on the brakes. I passed a statue (James Steward by any chance?) and continued on.

 

[Caminogoat]

I paid more attention to the glorious morning glories than where I was going.

 

[Caminogoat]

Of course I soon ended up....yes you saw right, the dead end.

 

[Caminogoat]

Again the hyways for a short while. Which is more scarier? Falling off or getting flattened by a car? The man's choice was different than mine. I hung on to the rail for my dear life.

 

[Caminogoat]

A dog went out of his way to say hello. My dinner tonight. I am in Liendo.

 

[Caminogoat]

Steady rain yesterday. My Gossmer hiking umbrella was finally out. One of my favorite segments is walking along the beach in Santona going over the mountain, and then walking 3-mile beach in Noja. It is heavenly beautiful! I am getting ready to walk so I will just post some photos.

 

[Caminogoat]

The cat was not happy to be disturbed. Horses huddled together. Nature reserve/bird sanctuary was worth the detouring.

 

[William Mckenzie]

Oh hello, I am slow as a turtle, or more like a snail. Once I met naked snails on the Camino, and was very concerned about their wellbeing because I knew a bunch of French were on their way. I prayed very hard for those snails, whom I feel kinship to, would cross the road before the French group encountered them and viewed them as a good lunch. Anyway, because I am so slow, our paths might cross somewhere. BTY, getting a QR code from QR-SpTH was cumbersome. Entering a local address was difficult because they did not list all the autonomous region-Basque was missing. I ended up listing Oviedo instead of San Sebastian. The friendly goat wishes you a Buen Camino!

Planning in walking dec/jan is there much open

 

[Kanga]

Steady rain yesterday. My Gossmer hiking umbrella was finally out. One of my favorite segments is walking along the beach in Santona going over the mountain, and then walking 3-mile beach in Noja. It is heavenly beautiful! I am getting ready to walk so I will just post some photos.

I found that path up and over the headland quite scary - with a large 14kilo backpack containing camping gear I felt I was going to topple backwards... But yes, it is beautiful.

 

[Caminogoat]

I found that path up and over the headland quite scary - with a large 14kilo backpack containing camping gear I felt I was going to topple backwards... But yes, it is beautiful.

I agree. I didn't try to take any selfies

 

[keith duke scott]

I found that path up and over the headland quite scary - with a large 14kilo backpack containing camping gear I felt I was going to topple backwards... But yes, it is beautiful.

That was the one thing that struck me while doing my Norte camino. So many miles of the most beautiful and expansive beaches I've ever seen. Usually not a soul on the beach except myself and other pilgrims! I really fell in love with that part of Spain and long to go back.
One of the singers I like tells a story that he had writers block really bad. In desperation he flew to Spain from Los Angeles and went to sit on one of those awesome beaches to regain his MOJO. It worked and he gives all the credit to that amazing place and a stray dog that befriended him there. The artist is Joshua radin and I recommend him for those who love ballads and lovely songs. Buen camino

 

[Sunopo]

You get my vote for the most entertaining and charming posts. What a pleasure to read.

 

[Caminogoat]

You get my vote for the most entertaining and charming posts. What a pleasure to read.

Thank you so much for your kind words. I am glad you like my posting. I know there are so many of you who would like to be here but cannot because of various reasons. I know what it's like to be longing for the Camino. I cannot be having all these beauty, solace and peace all to myself. I carry all of you with me in my heart. If you like, please walk with me in your imagination.

 

[Caminogoat]

Going back to yesterday, the building far on the right is a prison. But for the watch tower, one would think that it's a monestry, a boarding school, or a resort complex. Whatever it could be, the surrounding wall is so high I don't think any of the inmates can see the ocean. If that is the case, wouldn't that be a cruel and unusual punishment? Living (although I am not sure if I can call a prison life a living rather than just surviving) so near to such a beautiful beach and hear it yet never be able to see it is indeed cruel. Sad.

 

[Caminogoat]

Today leaving Galixano was blessed by a beautiful crispy fall temperature with a absolutely gorgeous blue say. I took a coastal route and within 5 minutes of walking, I spoted the cocean graced by various shades of jade.

 

[Caminogoat]

That is until I started smelling something not so pleasant; fermented cow manure. If you think a regular cow manure is unpleasant, just wait until you smell the fermented one. Behold, far ahead of me is a cow-manure-spreading tanker truck ( I made this term up because I don't know what it's actually called) spraying you know what in the fields. The scene remind me of how hippopotamus does theire business in the wild. In case you have never been interested in hippopotamus' toilet habit, let me tell you that they spin their tails as they depacate so their output spread far and wide. Sort of how a sprinkler water your lawn. If you ladies saw this in the wild, which I have, you will never complain about your husband not putting the toilet seat down. Anyway, see the photo closely and you will notice the sprinkler action. The problem was that the truck was working just a bit ahead of me that I had no way of avoiding it for some time.

 

[Caminogoat]

Then as if that wasn't a enough rain on my parade these dreaded goats (very unusual black polka-dot goats) showed up reminding me of the time I got lost following the trail they made. Do you think there was an affair between a goat and a milk cow??

 

[Caminogoat]

When I got to Santander I looked for some Japanese food and went to a restaurant called Sakura. The place was cozy but the food was less than acceptable. I can say confidently that I have a great talent in eating but not very accomplished in cooking. Nevertheless, even I can make something better. A big disappoinment! Incindently Koreans use the word "sakura" to say something is a fake. That restaurant lived up to that term.

 

[Caminogoat]

In the end I found a cute B&B on the Camino. Very attractive, reasonable with a friendly owner. That is where I am now quite happy with almost everything except that cow-dung tanker.

 

[Caminogoat]

When I arrived at La Roca B&B yesterday there was this little balck dog with Betty Davis eyes who welcomed me and followed me around. This morning he followed me to the breakfast and gave me that irrigistable begging look. I finally gave a tiny peace of bread. Then he wanted to jump on my lab to get a better view of what I was having. When I was leaving he was like "wait, where are you going without feeding me more." He wistfully staired at the leftover.

 

[Caminogoat]

What a pleasant temperature to walk today. Almost everyday it's in the lower seventies or upper sixties. The sea is calm and lovely. Yesterday, the sea was shimmering in multile shades of jade green. Today in multiple shades of aqua blue.

I saw people collecting a mass amount of red algae that we Koreans and Japanese love to eat. It's very expensive there. I saw it laid in the fields before but didn’t know for what purposes. So curious I had to ask what they were doing. They explained that it is being used to produce medicine and comestics. They dry it in the fields before selling it. When I told them that Asians eat it they said Galicians eat it too and call it "lechuga de mar" lettuce from the sea. What a nice name! Americans call it seaweed, a bit disrespectfull name in my opinion. I believe the name itself turns people off. Did you know that sea bass used to be called Patagonian tooth fish and back then not too many people tried it? After the name change, it's very popular now.

 

[Caminogoat]

From now on I am not going to ask for a direction to an older couple. More often than not, the husband start answering but then the wife does a few eye-rollings or head-shakings. I know this means that the wife is taking over the answering process. The husband usually tries to put a few words unsuccesfully, but gets helplessly brushed off by the wife. I feel bad for the husband. I have to wonder whether the couple's pleasant stroll would continue after I thank them both and leave. After seeing many incidences like this, now I am beginning to think that the reason why the "Invincible Armada” was defeated by English was because no women were on board. Had Spanish women commanded, they just might have won the naval battle.

 

[Caminogoat]

F.Y.I. Today's trail from Santander to Liencres is a bit dangerous for someone with balancing issues or height phobia. Their warning should be taken seriously.

 

[Caminogoat]

Last night in Liencres I saw this on the internet menu. I happily strolled into the restaurant with a great anticipation. Guess what? The chef got sick and went home They offered sandwiches.

 

[Caminogoat]

Today I took a break and went to Cabarceno. I was interested in seeing how they set up the environment for the animals. I was not disappointed with what I saw. The place was so huge it took a long time to walk just a few enclosures yet my Fitbit logged 10 miles. In fact I only saw big & tall ones, namely elefants, bears ziraffes etc., and none of the shy or elusive ones like leopards. It would be best that we never force any animals out of their natural habitats. If we must, the least we can do is providing them with adequate spaces. I wish all the zoos in the world could be like this place.

 

[Caminogoat]

For the inadquate conditions that animals suffer all over the zoos in the world, here is what one ostrich said.

 

[Caminogoat]

After Cabarceno, took a taxi to Santillana del Mar to stay the night and continue my Camino tomorrow. Someone once said (Was it Victor Hugo?) that it is the most beautiful town in all of the Europe. If you have never seen this town just imagine a place like Strasbourg or Carmel-by-the Sea or anywhere that melts your heart. Here are a few photos.

 

[Bob from L.A. !]

There is a really good pizza restaurant in that city named Bitinia !!!!!!! Worth walking to and enjoying. Check out the reviews online

 

[Caminogoat]

I happened to peak into a private alburgue, and a man came running with open arms, wildly waving in the air. If I didn't know any better I would have thought he was my lost first love, or something like that: may be he was delusional, and in his wildly delusional status of mind he believed he was Don Quixote and I was Dulcinea. I quickly glanced an escape route. Actually there was a simple explanation. He had no pilgrims staying there for some time. When I told him that I just wanted to see inside for other pilgrims he was VERY disappointed, even crossed a little bit. He asked 2 Euros to see it and I didn't mind it. Once I was inside I was pleasantly surprised at what I saw. The place was like an antique shop or a museum. When I started asking questions about his possessions his face lit up. He showed me everything he had, even things in his storage. They all looked really antique and quite lovely. He insisted they were all from 16th centry. Who am I to argue. He said I could post photos of him and his things so here they are.

 

[Caminogoat]

These are pretty funny. All husbands out there, if you folks remember what's on the photo #1, your married life will be a lot more blissiful.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

After Cabarceno, took a taxi to Santillana del Mar to stay the night and continue my Camino tomorrow. Someone once said (Was it Victor Hugo?) that it is the most beautiful town in all of the Europe. If you have never seen this town just imagine a place like Strasbourg or Carmel-by-the Sea or anywhere that melts your heart.

I've been to Santillana del Mar and Carmel-by-the-sea...both are extremely unique and special. I could probably think of a dozen other favorites if I gave myself an hour to think on it.

 

[Caminogoat]

There is a really good pizza restaurant in that city named Bitinia !!!!!!! Worth walking to and enjoying. Check out the reviews online

Thanks!

 

[Caminogoat]

Not much to report today. I was sad to leave Santillana del Mar. Today's segment to Comillas wasn't particularily lovely. Saw two pilgrims who were speaking Spanish, but can't be sure if they are Spaniyards. I will posting a few photos with short story.

My body is well conditioned now that I think I will walk longer distances starting tomorrow. I plan on walking 25 to 30 miles. That means I won't be checking into a hotel until around 7 pm. I won't have much time to write so even if you don't hear from me much please do not think thst I followed another goat trail and got stuck somewhere in Cantabrian or Asturian mountain.9i

 

[Caminogoat]

Photo 1 Early Christmas?
Photo 2 A tree prison?
Photo 3 The dreaded snails in my dream (it relates my earlier posting.

 

[Caminogoat]

Went for some lunch. I though the restaurant people weren't very friendly until a lady server brough out a big bowl of soup and started ladling it into my bowl. One scoup, two scoup, and I said thank you that is enough, but she added couple more scoups anyway, and said " you eat this, you need this". My heart just melted. Then I asked her to give me some tomatoes instead of French fries. Gosh did she give me some! Because of a moment like this, my heart stays here in Spain.

 

[Caminogoat]

Saw this fruit tree with cute looking red fruits that I have never seen before. The owner was near by so I asked what it was. It sounded like he was saying they were called "tamarillos". I cannot be sure about this because I am writing it as I heard. I told him I had never seen it before in my life. He actually picked one, broke it in half with his strong hands and showed me the bright red flesh inside, in the process the fruit juice splashed all over his jacket. I apoligized for it. He said that I shouldn't be worrid about it, and it was nothing. For a moment like this, I keep coming back to Spain.

 

[Caminogoat]

A very convincing store sign saying we sell milk here.