Hello everyone,
My boyfriend and I did the camino portuguese in may-june of this year. We really liked it. We wanted to start in Lisboa, however we heard that the road wasn't very pretty, so we decided to start in Coimbra.
The waymarking is really well all through the portuguese side. However, the spanish side is not as well marked. Since the arrows are not freshened up, some are not very visible. That said, we never got lost, but the use of a guide book was very helpful sometimes.
For those who want to start in the Sé Cathedral, I just want to say that I never saw arrows in the heart of the city. The way really starts there, but the arrows are more present starting at the Oriense station. We had some friends who started at the cathedral and who got lost, they finally arrived to the destination at 7p.m. Therefore, I suggest to start at the Parque de nacoes (oriense metro station).
Another important point on this camino is the road... it is a LOT on asphalt and village and car roads. You do not walk in the forests... You walk through beautiful villages however the asphalt is not very pleasant for the feet. That is why we decided to walk from Coimbra to Agueda and finally take the bus-train to go to Porto and continue from there. The way from Porto is a lot prettier and pleasant. I suggest to start from there. The views are prettier and more in the forests.
Also, the way Porto-Santiago has albergues. In January 2009, Barcelos and Ponte de Lima (two beautiful cities) will have albergues too. The first albergue that you will see is at Rates. The place is beautiful and the hospitaleros great. The only destination that does'nt have an albergue (except for Barcelos and Ponte de Lima for now) is Caldas de Reis... However, you can easily walk a little more and sleep in an albergue further away... But, even if there are not albergues everywhere, you can find a place to stay (pousadas, pensions, etc).
The albergue de Rates will be able to give you a lot of information on the road. It is there that we got our credencial. They have a web site that is VERY interesting
http://www.alberguederates.com. I strongly suggest to go visit it.
Hence, I recommand to start in Porto. I found the way a lot prettier and fun. If you want to do more kms, you can continue until Fisterra-Muxia. That is what we did and I can assure you that you will not regret it. It is simply beautiful.
If you need more information on accomodations or on the road, don't hesitate to write back.
Rita