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Great to see you are finding ways around your plans, even if somewhat costly. May the rest of your time and plans work well for you.Here goes. We are behind our itninerary because of injury and illness, but we are finally here! we decided to skip the first stage of the invierno because we are both still recovering from minor covid cases. We had planned to stay at the albergue at Vilavieja but we didnt want to risk that there would be other pilgrims there -- it seemed too soon to sleep in a dorm. So yesterday we took a cab from Ponferrada to Las Medulas. It was 41€, yikes! We are staying two nights at Complejo Rural Agoga. It is great. We are in a little cottage. Its lovely -- like a little fanciful wonderland. The owner is wonderful. We wanted to leave early today to hike up to Orellan because it is supposed to be 38 degrees today. She gave us a great to go breakfast, and will do so again tomorrow so we can beat the heat to Sobradelo. Las Medulas is completely absorbing. its had to imagine that is is a man made landscape! My mettalurgist husband cannot get enough. We walked a 10 km circle this morning that was really cool.
Tomorrow we will walk to Sobradelo. FYI we are using Manuel Mar for pack transport. He seems to deal with texts the best and is great. I'm looking forward to meeting him tomorrow. the pic isna panorama at Las Medulas!
Liz
So sorry to hear you have been ill. Glad you are on your way. I know your husband was particularly looking forward to the old mines. We're on our way to Spain in a week so keep posting so I can tolerate the wait with a little jealousyHere goes. We are behind our itninerary because of injury and illness, but we are finally here! We decided to skip the first stage of the invierno because we are both still recovering from minor covid cases. We had planned to stay at the albergue at Vilavieja but we didnt want to risk that there would be other pilgrims there -- it seemed too soon to sleep in a dorm. So yesterday we took a cab from Ponferrada to Las Medulas. It was 41€, yikes! We are staying two nights at Complejo Rural Agoga. It is great. We are in a little cottage. Its lovely -- like a little fanciful wonderland. The owner is wonderful. We wanted to leave early today to hike up to Orellan because it is supposed to be 38 degrees. She gave us a great to go breakfast, and will do so again tomorrow so we can beat the heat to Sobradelo. Las Medulas is completely absorbing. Its hard to imagine that is is a man made landscape! My metallurgist husband cannot get enough. Nor can I. We walked a 10 km circle this morning that was really cool.
Tomorrow we will walk to Sobradelo. FYI we are using Manuel Mar for pack transport. He seems to deal with texts the best and is great. I'm looking forward to meeting him tomorrow. The pic is a panorama at Las Medulas!
Liz
Liz - I just realized - you're walking the Invierno at the same time I did in 2019. There were a few times that I encountered those swarms of black flies! And they weren't little! My poles were swinging!It is a great walk down from Las Medulas to Puente de Domingo Florez. My only issue is that I walked the whole way with a personal swarm of flies! Tom was bothered by a few, but even he could see the blacksurrounding me. All I could think of is that kid's poem: "There was an old lady who swallowed a fly, I don't know why she swallowed a fly, Poor old lady, perhaps she'll die!" I can definately offer clues as to how one swallows a fly, and I do think this old lady will survive. But it was darn annoying!
I developed a technique of using one of my poles like a baton twirler in front of my face while I walked down the hill using the other pole for balance and knee support. I must have looked like a bizarre old lady, indeed!Liz - I just realized - you're walking the Invierno at the same time I did in 2019. There were a few times that I encountered those swarms of black flies! And they weren't little! My poles were swinging!
We are staying at the Albergue at Vilamartin. I've been texting with the person who runs it so I know there are beds for us and about the Ukrainian Refugees. The albergue in Vitoria was doing the same thing. We spent an hour the night we were there playing with kids in the common space!Good to hear that today went well, except for the flies. I didn't encounter them a few weeks ago.
Where are you staying tomorrow? I just wanted to mention that the albergue in Vilamartin is housing some Ukrainian refugees. There may still be beds for pilgrims if you call the posted phone number, but I chose to walk on.
Casa Rosa is on WhatsApp so I would give her a shout if you are wanting to stay there in the future!A couple route notes: if you take the short cut through Puente you will miss the lovely new albergue Casa Rosa. We walked by and it looked so nice. Past Casa Rosa on Calle Toral to the right is Bar/Cafe Los Arcos, which opens at 8 and was very nice, and is across the street from a Corviran that opens at 9. We did not see another open bar!
Totally agree about the flies. I wish I had a beekeeper's hat, I saw people wearing them on the West Highland Way a few years ago to keep the midges off. You are doing well - I am in O Barco for the night, A Rua tomorrow and then, sadly, duty calls and I must get home. I had intended to be in Santiago last year!Day 1. Las Medulas to Sobradelo.
@Glenshiro you were wise! We started this morning at 6:15 and still ended up walking in 30+ heat for the last hour of our walk because we are so slow! We arrived at Casa Mar which is a bit funky and odd, but comfy and Manuel Mar is absolutely lovely. He has our laundry, has fed us raciones and is looking after us well!
It is a great walk down from Las Medulas to Puente de Domingo Florez. My only issue is that I walked the whole way with a personal swarm of flies! Tom was bothered by a few, but even he could see the blacksurrounding me. All I could think of is that kid's poem: "There was an old lady who swallowed a fly, I don't know why she swallowed a fly, Poor old lady, perhaps she'll die!" I can definately offer clues as to how one swallows a fly, and I do think this old lady will survive. But it was darn annoying!
A couple route notes: if you take the short cut through Puente you will miss the lovely new albergue Casa Rosa. We walked by and it looked so nice. Past Casa Rosa on Calle Toral to the right is Bar/Cafe Los Arcos, which opens at 8 and was very nice, and is across the street from a Corviran that opens at 9. We did not see another open bar!
L
Yes, they were a tad shabby but clean. However, I was fine as I had a 4-bed room to myself, my laundry was done, and the price was right. The bed springs were so noisy, that I think mattresses on the floor would be better. Do you know if Manuel runs the albergue, the bar, and the luggage service all by himself? I wasn't sure what the hours of operation were, and he seemed to have a lot on his plate.I thought the accommodations at Bar Mar in Sobradelo were iffy.
I agree with all you said. I'm not sure if Manuel has any help but none was in evidence.... and he is a most dependable guy so far!Yes, they were a tad shabby but clean. However, I was fine as I had a 4-bed room to myself, my laundry was done, and the price was right. The bed springs were so noisy, that I think mattresses on the floor would be better. Do you know if Manuel runs the albergue, the bar, and the luggage service all by himself? I wasn't sure what the hours of operation were, and he seemed to have a lot on his plate.
I have just checked my much scribbled list (typed up tidily, then almost everything changed) of places to stay on the Invierno, and find that I spent a night at Bar Mar in Sobradelo. As it has not stuck in my mind, I guess that it was no better, not worse. than my other accommodation.I agree with all you said. I'm not sure if Manuel has any help but none was in evidence.... and he is a most dependable guy so far!
I guess I walked a couple of weeks earlier on my Invierno in 2018 and it was not as hot as these days and no flies. I always bring a headnet to put over my cap since I am from a mosquitoarea at home, but I was not bothered at all on the Invierno. Hope it gets better on the way.I developed a technique of using one of my poles like a baton twirler in front of my face while I walked down the hill using the other pole for balance and knee support. I must have looked like a bizarre old lady, indeed!
My only issue is that I walked the whole way with a personal swarm of flies!
Day 3: We decided to stop at A Rua today and not walk to Montefurado because of the heat. It's supposed to be 36 this afternoon and the air quality here in the Rio Sil valley is in the red zone. So we got to A Rua, and enjoyed a leisurely breakfast. We wanted to stop at a sports store because I left my long sleeve light weight UV shirt somewhere. We struck out, though. Maybe Monforte will have something. FYI, the Tri-Sports store in A Rua is closed. We were able to check in early at CR Pacio do Sil -- it lives up to its reputation! We have a fan in our room, screens in the windows, and a spa tub. I am in happy land!
Vilamartìn was a hard place to stay. The only open restaurant is at Hostal A Lastra, almost 2km from the albergue. We didn't want to cook at the albergue because we didn't want to get in the way of the Ukrainians (who were lovely and interesting, and incredibly stressed). We walked all the way back to the restaurant at 7:00 only to discover their kitchen closed at 3:30! They kindly made us bodadillos. Then we slogged our way back to the albergue in the heat.
I wanted to put in a plug for the alternative route between Vilamartìn and A Rua. Just after the Camino leaves Vilamartìn after the damn, where the senda starts, the Junta has a sign advertising an alternative, safer route. It has a very steep 200 meter-ish climb at the beginning and then goes along vineyard access roads. It's beautiful. And there is no big down. It's well signed and rejoins the main route near Bar San Roque. Here are some pics from the route.
I had a wonderful stay at Pacio do Sil! Julia and Alban were very kind - are they well?We were able to check in early at CR Pacio do Sil -- it lives up to its reputation
They are well and I told Alban that you recommended their place! I think he remembered you, but my Spanish capacity was being exceededI had a wonderful stay at Pacio do Sil! Julia and Alban were very kind - are they well?
Yes. The sign was a bit confusing. (Well, at least, I was tired and confused.) The problem was that the only mojón I saw was still pointing down the road. You have to cross the road to go under the highway overpass, and then you will see a new mojón pointing leftward to the new path on the north side of the highway. The first part of the path was a bit overgrown but it soon became a nice new path with great views.I wanted to put in a plug for the alternative route between Vilamartìn and A Rua. Just after the Camino leaves Vilamartìn after the dam, where the senda starts, the Junta has a sign advertising an alternative, safer route.
This is true, although the grass has been nicely mowed....You have to cross the road to go under the highway overpass, and then you will see a new mojón pointing leftward to the new path on the north side of the highway. The first part of the path was a bit overgrown but it soon became a nice new path with great views.
Day 4. Montefurado to Quiroga.what a beautiful walk. We took the train from A Rua to Montefurado.
An aside about the train. There is a Renfe ticket machine in the train station at A Rua. There is no ticket machine at Montefurado. I don't think the Renfe App works either. The app actually does not list Montefurado as a station. I thought maybe the stop had been eliminated, but I checked Renfe online and was able to book the tickets. I've used Renfe quite a bit and both their app and site can be funky. But paying with PayPal seems to work well.
We thought the scenery was fabulous and passing through wine country and abandoned or mostly abandoned towns was also interesting. The ups and downs were not too terrible and that's saying a lot coming from Tom and me!
We are staying in Hostal Quiper in Quiroga. It is quite nice.
Having said all of that, I have to confess the two of us are a bit of a mess. Today was only 16.4 and we are exhausted. Maybe it's the heat. It was 32 when we got to Quiroga. Maybe it's just lingering fatigue from COVID. We did not feel very sick at all, but we are really dragging. And I have developed a painful blister on the ball of my right foot. I have neuropathy and numbness because of my ankle replacement. And after feeling for weeks that I was getting a blister on the ball of my right foot and having nothing develop, I stopped checking. Aaaargh. It's developed. So tomorrow, we are going to take the train to Monforte and get a days rest.
They have definately renovated. Everything seems brand new and very nice! We are staying at Albergue Santiago 15 in Monforte.Quiper is nice. They have renovated their rooms now I think?
Monforte is wonderful - you will be well rested!
Are you staying in Pension Miño in Monforte?
Another covid casualty perhaps. This was clearly a family-run operation, and the couple in charge was of retirement age. Thanks for the heads up!But none of the phone numbers I had for Hotel Las Vegas in San Clodio wee good -- we discovered why this morning -- it is closed and for rent.
We treated ourselves to the Monforte Parafor when we transitioned from Miraz to walking. We took the train from Guitiriz near Miraz, stayed overnight at the Parador and then continued to Irun. What a treat it was. I'm trying to stay off my foot today but I think we will be tourists tomorrow with lots of time in between each stop and ending with drinks at the Parador. Thanks for that idea!Monforte is a good place for a rest day. I’ve never done most of the tourist things there, but both the wine center and the Escolapios get good reviews (theres an El Greco or two there, but I am not a huge fan). What I have done is splurged in the parador, and I can recommend a nice drink in the bar and sitting on the walls outside to enjoy the views.
Oh No! I had planned to stay there this summer, also to shorten the next stage. I think I will return to Quiper then. Thanks for the info.We had originally planned to stay in San Clodio to shorten the stage to Salcedo. But none of the phone numbers I had for Hotel Las Vegas in San Clodio wee good -- we discovered why this morning -- it is closed and for rent.
I think that if the people in charge of logistics had your skills, we would not have had a toilet paper shortage in the early stages of covid. You are a master.Here's what I think we will do ( I'm calling this Plan Z):
1. Monforte to Torre Vilariño
2. Torre Vilariño to Vilaseco (w/a cab from Diomondi to Iglesia S. Pedro) @16.7 km
3. Vilaseco to Vilanova (taking the low route through Mouricios and S. Vicente) and then cabbing forward to Rodiero to stay) @13-14 km
4. Vilanova (we'll cab back to it in the morning to start) to A Eirexe (we will cab back to Rodeiro and stay there a second night) 17.6 km
5. A Eirexe (we will cab forward to start there) to A Laxe 18 km
6. A Laxe to Bandeira 16.5 km
7. Bandeira to Outeiro 17.5 km
8. Outeiro to Santiago 17.4 km
Vilaseco to Vilanova (taking the low route through Mouricios and S. Vicente)
Sorry, I don't. But probably either Manuel of H. Vilaseco, or the people in Hostal Carpinteiras in Rodeiro could help.And does anyone know the number for a taxi in Rodiero?
Thanks! I did not process this. I figured out the distance just as you suspected. Where we stop at the top will likely depend on how we feelbut the “normal cab ride” from Diomondi to the church at San Pedro will not get you to the Miño crossing at Belesar.
Vilanova de Camba is on Gronze and on the Brierly map and the Wise Pilgrim guide. It's 7.1 km before Rodiero so we thought we would stay twice at Hostal Carpinteira. That way we also would just make our arrangements with one taxi if possible..... but maybe the Vilaseco folks will be more helpful??? I need to figure this out by tomorrow because I need to let Manuel know about bag transport.The only Vilanova I see is not exactly en route from Vilaseco and Rodeiro. Is there accommodation there? Maybe it would be simpler to just use Hotel Vilaseco as your base for 2 nights. M
I see now what you have planned for this part. I think you are wise to keep your taxi arrangements based in one place, i.e. Rodeiro. (While Manuel of H. Vilaseco might be very helpful, he is largely a one-man show, so you can't rely on him being available.)And you are right about Vilanova. After Peñasillas, it's the next town at the end of the windmills and after you cross the highway.....
Yes, that pazo is easy to identify.Oh, Vilanova de Camba! That’s where the beautiful pazo is.
I wrestled with the ticket machine at A Rua railway station for about 20 minutes before it finally give up and printed the ticket I wanted. I was given a choice of two fares for the same trip but one of then wanted amongst other things, my passport number! I had tried the app, but it refused to accept any credit card offered. In my frustration I forgot that I actually have an account with RENFE and should simply have used their website.Day 4. Montefurado to Quiroga.what a beautiful walk. We took the train from A Rua to Montefurado.
An aside about the train. There is a Renfe ticket machine in the train station at A Rua. There is no ticket machine at Montefurado. I don't think the Renfe App works either. The app actually does not list Montefurado as a station. I thought maybe the stop had been eliminated, but I checked Renfe online and was able to book the tickets. I've used Renfe quite a bit and both their app and site can be funky. But paying with PayPal seems to work well.
We thought the scenery was fabulous and passing through wine country and abandoned or mostly abandoned towns was also interesting. The ups and downs were not too terrible and that's saying a lot coming from Tom and me!
We are staying in Hostal Quiper in Quiroga. It is quite nice.
Having said all of that, I have to confess the two of us are a bit of a mess. Today was only 16.4 and we are exhausted. Maybe it's the heat. It was 32 when we got to Quiroga. Maybe it's just lingering fatigue from COVID. We did not feel very sick at all, but we are really dragging. And I have developed a painful blister on the ball of my right foot. I have neuropathy and numbness because of my ankle replacement. And after feeling for weeks that I was getting a blister on the ball of my right foot and having nothing develop, I stopped checking. Aaaargh. It's developed. So tomorrow, we are going to take the train to Monforte and get a days rest.
I'm doing the Invierno this September so really appreciate this.Here goes. We are behind our itninerary because of injury and illness, but we are finally here! We decided to skip the first stage of the invierno because we are both still recovering from minor covid cases. We had planned to stay at the albergue at Vilavieja but we didnt want to risk that there would be other pilgrims there -- it seemed too soon to sleep in a dorm. So yesterday we took a cab from Ponferrada to Las Medulas. It was 41€, yikes! We are staying two nights at Complejo Rural Agoga. It is great. We are in a little cottage. Its lovely -- like a little fanciful wonderland. The owner is wonderful. We wanted to leave early today to hike up to Orellan because it is supposed to be 38 degrees. She gave us a great to go breakfast, and will do so again tomorrow so we can beat the heat to Sobradelo. Las Medulas is completely absorbing. Its hard to imagine that is is a man made landscape! My metallurgist husband cannot get enough. Nor can I. We walked a 10 km circle this morning that was really cool.
Tomorrow we will walk to Sobradelo. FYI we are using Manuel Mar for pack transport. He seems to deal with texts the best and is great. I'm looking forward to meeting him tomorrow. The pic is a panorama at Las Medulas!
Liz
I tried too, but gave up and locals told me I should just pay on the train, which I did.I wrestled with the ticket machine at A Rua railway station
It's funny, I have now ridden different sections of this line three or four times and Only once have I seen a conductor. Using the Renfe website worked OK. I "printed my tickets as pdfs and shared them to iBooks on my iPad so I would have them offline. A screen shot would also work.I tried too, but gave up and locals told me I should just pay on the train, which I did.
Laurie....It may be a very useful thing (for those of us who are planning an Invierno) to post the current link to your famous Invierno guide.Another covid casualty perhaps. This was clearly a family-run operation, and the couple in charge was of retirement age. Thanks for the heads up!
Monforte is a good place for a rest day. I’ve never done most of the tourist things there, but both the wine center and the Escolapios get good reviews (there’s an El Greco or two there, but I am not a huge fan). What I have done is splurged in the parador, and I can recommend a nice drink in the bar and sitting on the walls outside to enjoy the views.
Hoping your rest will put that spark and pep back in your steps. You have had quite the eventful camino so far. Sending hopes that the last few days go well.
At the moment, I am going in the opposite direction. With my walks on the Le Puy, the Bayone, and the Frances to plan this year, as well as the final walk on the Invierno, I am busily trying to get up to date on all these routes, with the Invierno being the one that I have walked most recently and, I hope, am least likely to get lost on or not find a place to stay. I feel that I must look at it last. But there are so many changes on the Invierno. I rely on the forum posts, and particularly, on @peregrina2000 , to update me on that route. For ongoing reliable information along all these routes, I rely on and very grateful to, Gronze. It is wonderful to have one place that is generally the most up to date on all things camino, on all the routes that I shall be walking.Laurie....It may be a very useful thing (for those of us who are planning an Invierno) to post the current link to your famous Invierno guide.
I am hoping that @Albertagirl will share her updates to the Brierley guide if and when she makes the updates in her guide.
In late September I shall only be halfway through the Le Puy, so I am afraid that I shall be of no use to you.I had thought you meant you were going to note some of the changes in your Brierley guide and did not notice that it was far down your list.
I will, no doubt, use Laurie's guide and personal experience to get a final guide together for late September. I have had to cancel several routes over the last couple of years so I am waiting until the last minute for route planning so as to not waste the effort on a cancelled Camino again.
This is wonderful news.Just after the Camino leaves Vilamartìn after the dam, where the senda starts, the Junta has a sign advertising an alternative, safer route. It has a very steep 200 meter-ish climb at the beginning and then goes along vineyard access roads. It's beautiful. And there is no big down. It's well signed and rejoins the main route near Bar San Roque. Here are some pics from the route.
I made a guide for our trip and have made notes on it. I am not returning to the US until Aug 2 but will try to post my notes then.I had thought you meant you were going to note some of the changes in your Brierley guide and did not notice that it was far down your list.
I would very much appreciate it if you would post any notes that you may have about the Vasco Interior as well.I made a guide for our trip and have made notes on it. I am not returning to the US until Aug 2 but will try to post my notes then.
I suspect they will be closed unless we stumble on a care taker at one of them, but they will still be interesting.....I hope that you will have some access to the Romanesque churches along your route, b
I suspect they will be closed unless we stumble on a care taker at one of them, but they will still be interesting.....
With our joint issues, I think avoiding downs when possible is high priority! We will find out tomorrow haw much of a slog it isI found the way up and down Monte do Faro to be easier than the way around!
Yes. We should walk by San Cristovo in Mouricios, San Vicente de Argonzón and San Miguel do Monte in that order. My thoughts are the same as yours. It's supposed to be raining so whether we find folks out and about is a question. But the outsides should be interesting.Based on my very sketchu geography, it looks like you will walk by churches 12, 11, and 10?
That will be great!I made a guide for our trip and have made notes on it. I am not returning to the US until Aug 2 but will try to post my notes then.
Bandeira: Do NOT miss the café-pastelería Dulce Deza. The best cafetería in the northern hemisphere. This time they gave me a pastry that I never had tasted before. It was the best thing I ever had. Softer than croissant, cream inside but more buttery than in a napolitana, and a white powder on top... Ah! I wish I had taken a photo of it so I could ask you if you know what it is called! But it ended up in my stomach all too soon. That cafetería deserves a pilgrimage on its own!
I do enjoy seeing heather no matter where. When you say at A Laxe there are no utensils, do you mean fork/knife/spoon? Is there a kitchen with pots and pans and cooking utensils? Curious to know if the flies and mosquitoes followed you indoors and bugged you all night.Days 10 and 11: A Eirexe to A Laxe and A Laxe to Bandeira
We stayed at the Xunta Albergue in A Laxe last night and were not able to get on the internet. I had read reviews saying the albergue was not well maintained. We thought it was very good for a Xunta Albergue (no utensils). The hospitalera was very kind. The only issue is that the area where the albergue is located is very thick with flies and mosquitos. ugh!
The walk from A Eirexe to Lalín is quintessentially Galician, deep paths with lots of overgrowth, small farms and lots of cows. On a rainy day there is also no place to sit! In Rabanal del Camino on the Frances, one of the Benedictine priests, Father Pius, made benches for pilgrims that are along the way in that area. I was channeling Father Pius or someone like him! But no luck. Stil it was a great walk. After Lalín, the path follows a beautiful linear park for several kilometers.
Today the walk from a Laxe to Bandeira was more ordinary. We still walked in the Galician mist, past cloud islands. The highlight of the day was the beautiful ancient bridge at Ponte Taboada. The way takes you down the side od a fairly significant canyon through a wooded area and under a high motorway overpass, and the, all of a sudden you come to this incredible ancient bridge! It's very cool.
We are staying at the Xunta Albergue in Bandeira. It is quite nice. The hospitalera is the sister of the hospitalera at A Laxe and is equally as kind. BTW, Bar Atly in Bandiero opens at 6 on weekdays and Saturdays and 7 on Sundays and holidays for desayunos.
Tomorrow we are walking to Outeiro, but we plan to stay at Hostal O Cruciero in Ponte Ulla. The Xunta Albergues do not accept bag transport and there is nowhere around Outeiro st which Manuel could leave our bags. So we will walk to Outeiro, taxi back to Ponte Ulla and then taxi to Outeiro the next morning to start our last stage to Santiago.
Here's some pics (although not from today as I haven transferred them from the camera).
OMG you remind me I have to eat them again this summer! And investigate if I also can find them in the panadería in Silleda! But maybe @ebrandt beats me to it!@ebrandt, you're in Bandeira? OK, caution to the wind. Go out and eat those fabulous cakes at Dulce Deza that @Bad Pilgrim was raving about.
Buen camino to you both! May the next days be only a joy.
Yum is all I can say!Go out and eat those fabulous cakes at Dulce Deza that @Bad Pilgrim was raving about.
Yes I do mean no pots or pans. No Nothing. That's been my experience with all Xunta de Galicia Albergues. We have plastic cups and sporks so..... And unfortunately the flies and mosquitoes did make it into the albergue so it was a long not great nightWhen you say at A Laxe there are no utensils, do you mean fork/knife/spoon? Is there a kitchen with pots and pans and cooking utensils? Curious to know if the flies and mosquitoes followed you indoors and bugged you all night.
Ok. I have to walk the Invierno again.Yum is all I can say!
Oh my sympathies are with you! I'm really glad you have the bug nets!We are on the Aragones and I must say that the Spanish flies are my cryptonite. I can barely eat at a bar knowing flies are heavy in the kitchen. In a former life, I was married to a pig farmer and the insects just make me super uncomfortable. I purposely went to Sportsman's Warehouse and bought bug netting to go over our hats based on your earlier post about the 'old lady who swallowed a fly'! Thanks for the heads y up!
Yep, those were big misses! They demand a repeat!Ok. I have to walk the Invierno again.
I missed this - and the bread in Rodeiro, too.
Yum is all I can say!
Yes I do mean no pots or pans. No Nothing. That's been my experience with all Xunta de Galicia Albergues. We have plastic cups and sporks so..... And unfortunately the flies and mosquitoes did make it into the albergue so it was a long not great night
Good job! Congrats!A couple of notes on today's stage: I didn't think that Hostal Curceiro in Ponte Ulla was anything special. It is right on the highway and quite noisy. The restaurant at Pension Taberna Gundian was nice. The pension is a little pricy but.... Also, the Xunta Albergue in Outeiro is in a beautiful location. If you took food up, it looked very nice.
We completely lost the Camino signs coming into Santiago. We got to the Colexiata do Sar and never saw another arrow. For some of the time we could see the cathedral spires and after that we broke out the gps tracks!
We really enjoyed the Invierno. We knew it was a quiet route, but I thought there would be more pilgrims than we ran into. It wasn't as quiet as the Vasco, but almost. We crossed paths with others a couple times, but until the last 100 km we never stayed with other pilgrims.
I definately think that with some creative planning and willingness to take a cab or two this route is doable in short stages -- less than 20 km. The only place that is a problem is the long stage from Quiroga to Monforte. We ended up skipping this stage because of post COVID fatigue and a very deep blister I developed on my right foot. Salcedo is the only current option and I think it's about 23 km if you take the way from A Ponte.
We thought the route was very beautiful. We loved the rugged landscape mixed in with wine country. We are really glad we walked this route and while we would have loved to meet a few more pilgrims on it, we were very happy not to be with the hordes on the Frances.
Day 12: Bandeira to Outeiro. Today was great. The Xunta albergue in Bandeira is nice. It's a bunch of pods connected by roofs, so you have to go outside to go from the dorm to the shower, etc. So not a place to stay in cold weather. But the common space is light and the dorm was nice. The hospitalera (sister of the hospitalera in A Laxe) was kind and funny.
I used correos on workingdays, they did that Monday to Friday. Had to mail them.I can't wait to start the Invierno around Sept 2-3. Your descriptions and recommendations are much appreciated, especially Manuel the luggage guy.
Did you notice if the albergue was open in Quiroga. Its on Wise Pilgrim but not mentioned on Gronze or in the Brierly Guide.....Day 4. Montefurado to Quiroga.what a beautiful walk. We took the train from A Rua to Montefurado.
An aside about the train. There is a Renfe ticket machine in the train station at A Rua. There is no ticket machine at Montefurado. I don't think the Renfe App works either. The app actually does not list Montefurado as a station. I thought maybe the stop had been eliminated, but I checked Renfe online and was able to book the tickets. I've used Renfe quite a bit and both their app and site can be funky. But paying with PayPal seems to work well.
We thought the scenery was fabulous and passing through wine country and abandoned or mostly abandoned towns was also interesting. The ups and downs were not too terrible and that's saying a lot coming from Tom and me!
We are staying in Hostal Quiper in Quiroga. It is quite nice.
Having said all of that, I have to confess the two of us are a bit of a mess. Today was only 16.4 and we are exhausted. Maybe it's the heat. It was 32 when we got to Quiroga. Maybe it's just lingering fatigue from COVID. We did not feel very sick at all, but we are really dragging. And I have developed a painful blister on the ball of my right foot. I have neuropathy and numbness because of my ankle replacement. And after feeling for weeks that I was getting a blister on the ball of my right foot and having nothing develop, I stopped checking. Aaaargh. It's developed. So tomorrow, we are going to take the train to Monforte and get a days rest.
It was open in late May.Did you notice if the albergue was open in Quiroga. Its on Wise Pilgrim but not mentioned on Gronze or in the Brierly Guide.....
Did you notice if the albergue was open in Quiroga. Its on Wise Pilgrim but not mentioned on Gronze or in the Brierly Guide.....
Did you notice if the albergue was open in Quiroga. Its on Wise Pilgrim but not mentioned on Gronze or in the Brierly Guide.....
Mmmm - maybe they have decided to close up for winter. I'm not planning to be there until the end of November, so I'll drop them an email nearer the time and see what they say. Thanks for the updates all.I emailed them. All I got back was "Right now it is closed."
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