WestKirsty
Active Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Next up: Viejo/Olvidado
Hi again! I'm just back from an incredible 8 days on trails, mostly in wonderful mountains! I thought I'd add a couple of posts here to share info on the Lebaniego in June 2024 and then some information on how we extended our walk in the Picos de Europa, as others might be interested.
Our itinerary was:
Camino Lebaniego: San Vicente de la Barquera - Lafuente - Potes/Santo Toribio
Camino Vadiniese: Potes/Santo Toribio - Espinama
Connecting Hiking Route: Espinama - Posada de Valdeon
Anillo de Picos (Vindio): Posada de Valdeon - Refugio Ario vía Ruta del Cares - Refugio Vegarredonda via Lagos de Covadonga - Refugio Vegabaño - Posada de Valdeon.
Camino Lebaniego/Vadiniese:
Day 1: San Vicente to Lafuente (28km)
We were lucky to have a mostly clear day for the first day of walking. We ended up taking the old route for day 1, which was unfortunately all tarmac. However, it was significantly shorter which was important for us as we had a limited time frame for this trip. And we were happy to find that the old route was very well way marked with new looking red arrows the entire way. Of course, we missed the nicer river walk but for others looking to reduce km, it's a decent option. When you get to Hortigal, there is a large red arrow pointing left and this is how you avoid the longer, newer route. It joins the official again just before Cades.
We stayed in the Albergue Los Pulmares. It's a great little place and Marta was very welcoming. There was just one other pilgrim there that night so the three of us had our choice of beds. You can also pre-order dinner, which is a good idea as there are no bars or restaurants nearby. We also ordered breakfast and my friend was delighted to wake up to cake with candles on it for her - Marta noticed it was her birthday when checking us in
Day 2: Los Pulmares to Potes (28km)
This was a (mostly) great walk with wonderful mountain views! It was also great to get off roads for a good part of the day. However, the last 7km or so heading into Potes started to drag. We stayed at the municipal Albergue and it's a great place! Only 5 euros, loads of beds, big kitchen, washing machine free to use (but no soap) and a large dining room. All right in the centre of town. We ended up staying there again on the way back home after telling the hospitalera our full itinerary! She was very helpful.
I also highly recommend eating at La Soldreria! The back terrace is gorgeous and they have a good choice of vegetarian options that were delicious
.
Day 3: Potes to Espinama
We started the day with the short walk to Santo Toribio and got our certificates. The office opens at 10am so we were able to enjoy a later start to the day.
So then we were now on the Vadiniese following yellow arrows instead of red. And it's another beautiful trail with mountains all around. We had a break in Cosgaya and then I'm not sure if the route has changed from here. The maps we were using had another 11km to go, with more elevation gain. However, at the bar we were told to stay down at the river for a much shorter, nicer walk into Espinama. We set off for this route and it turned out to have lots of arrows and markers for the Camino. So I'm not sure if this is now the official, but at any rate, it was a lovely approach into Espinama.
We stayed at Albergue Britz. It was just the 2 of us and were given a small room with private bathroom. It was pricier for an Albergue (24 euros each) but as we had a private room and use of a great kitchen in a separate outbuilding I'd say it was good value. There's a small supermarket in Espinama and a few bars though most were closed as folks were on vacation before the summer season.
Day 4: Espinama to Posada de Valdeon
Today was half on the Camino and such a lovely route! We left very late as there were storms in the morning and we were waiting for them to pass. Then we still were out in rain, but no more thunder and lightning. That lasted an hour or so and then we lucked out and the rain held off for the rest of the day. The Camino section of the day gave us gorgeous views on dirt roads. We could watch the cable cars going up/down at Fuente De. If you wanted to visit that, there's well signed trails off the Camino to get there.
While the Camino started down on the dirt road, we left it for a trail going higher and to get us farther into the Picos de Europa. It was a well marked trail (PR-15) and brought us up to about 1700m elevation where we had lunch at a mountain hut. It was then a great walk down to Posada de Valdeon.
Some pics of the route:
Our itinerary was:
Camino Lebaniego: San Vicente de la Barquera - Lafuente - Potes/Santo Toribio
Camino Vadiniese: Potes/Santo Toribio - Espinama
Connecting Hiking Route: Espinama - Posada de Valdeon
Anillo de Picos (Vindio): Posada de Valdeon - Refugio Ario vía Ruta del Cares - Refugio Vegarredonda via Lagos de Covadonga - Refugio Vegabaño - Posada de Valdeon.
Camino Lebaniego/Vadiniese:
Day 1: San Vicente to Lafuente (28km)
We were lucky to have a mostly clear day for the first day of walking. We ended up taking the old route for day 1, which was unfortunately all tarmac. However, it was significantly shorter which was important for us as we had a limited time frame for this trip. And we were happy to find that the old route was very well way marked with new looking red arrows the entire way. Of course, we missed the nicer river walk but for others looking to reduce km, it's a decent option. When you get to Hortigal, there is a large red arrow pointing left and this is how you avoid the longer, newer route. It joins the official again just before Cades.
We stayed in the Albergue Los Pulmares. It's a great little place and Marta was very welcoming. There was just one other pilgrim there that night so the three of us had our choice of beds. You can also pre-order dinner, which is a good idea as there are no bars or restaurants nearby. We also ordered breakfast and my friend was delighted to wake up to cake with candles on it for her - Marta noticed it was her birthday when checking us in
Day 2: Los Pulmares to Potes (28km)
This was a (mostly) great walk with wonderful mountain views! It was also great to get off roads for a good part of the day. However, the last 7km or so heading into Potes started to drag. We stayed at the municipal Albergue and it's a great place! Only 5 euros, loads of beds, big kitchen, washing machine free to use (but no soap) and a large dining room. All right in the centre of town. We ended up staying there again on the way back home after telling the hospitalera our full itinerary! She was very helpful.
I also highly recommend eating at La Soldreria! The back terrace is gorgeous and they have a good choice of vegetarian options that were delicious
. Day 3: Potes to Espinama
We started the day with the short walk to Santo Toribio and got our certificates. The office opens at 10am so we were able to enjoy a later start to the day.
So then we were now on the Vadiniese following yellow arrows instead of red. And it's another beautiful trail with mountains all around. We had a break in Cosgaya and then I'm not sure if the route has changed from here. The maps we were using had another 11km to go, with more elevation gain. However, at the bar we were told to stay down at the river for a much shorter, nicer walk into Espinama. We set off for this route and it turned out to have lots of arrows and markers for the Camino. So I'm not sure if this is now the official, but at any rate, it was a lovely approach into Espinama.
We stayed at Albergue Britz. It was just the 2 of us and were given a small room with private bathroom. It was pricier for an Albergue (24 euros each) but as we had a private room and use of a great kitchen in a separate outbuilding I'd say it was good value. There's a small supermarket in Espinama and a few bars though most were closed as folks were on vacation before the summer season.
Day 4: Espinama to Posada de Valdeon
Today was half on the Camino and such a lovely route! We left very late as there were storms in the morning and we were waiting for them to pass. Then we still were out in rain, but no more thunder and lightning. That lasted an hour or so and then we lucked out and the rain held off for the rest of the day. The Camino section of the day gave us gorgeous views on dirt roads. We could watch the cable cars going up/down at Fuente De. If you wanted to visit that, there's well signed trails off the Camino to get there.
While the Camino started down on the dirt road, we left it for a trail going higher and to get us farther into the Picos de Europa. It was a well marked trail (PR-15) and brought us up to about 1700m elevation where we had lunch at a mountain hut. It was then a great walk down to Posada de Valdeon.
Some pics of the route:
