Leaving Porto on September 24, 2011

[ConnachtRambler]

Along with my wife I will fly into Lisbon on Thursday, travel to Porto on Friday, and start walking on Saturday. We have it all planned in considerable detail but expect to be rewriting the plan by day 2

My thanks to all who have asked questions, provided answers and offered advice on the Camino Portugues - it has all been very helpful.

 

[JohnnieWalker]

Have a wonderful pilgrimage. See you in Santiago perhaps.

Buen Camino


John

 

[sulu]

Have a super caminho. Don't forget to post how it went, I'll be just behind you and still have lots of questions.
Bom caminho
Sue

 

[ConnachtRambler]

Have a wonderful pilgrimage. See you in Santiago perhaps.

Buen Camino


John

Thank you. Perhaps we will meet. We are taking it easy and hope to arrive in Santiago on October 6. We are there for just 24 hours - we fly home from Madrid and as we have never been there before we hope to spend three days there.

Liam

 

[ConnachtRambler]

Have a super caminho. Don't forget to post how it went, I'll be just behind you and still have lots of questions.
Bom caminho
Sue

Thank you. I'll have my smart phone with me and when WiFi is available I'll endeavour to post a few notes. However, there were days on the Camino Frances last year when I was just too exhausted at the end of the walk to write or type anything.

Liam

 

[IrishKate]

Hi from another Irish couple. We hope you have a wonderful trip. I look forward to reading about it whenever you manage to post a few lines. Our plan is to do this Camino in 2013 as part of a six month trip through France, Spain and Portugal. So we have plenty of time to train, buy the correct rucksack and walk through the blisters.
Go n-eiri an bothar libh!
Ca

 

[ConnachtRambler]

Go n-eiri an bothar libh!
Ca

Go raibh maith agat - after a pleasant 22 hours in Lisbon we are on the bus to Porto. Very pleased that we both managed to keep backpacks below 7kg, before food and water. Liam

 

[Arn]

Liam,

Keep up the pace my friend and thoroughly enjoy the CPort.

I will miss you in that I don't start until mid-Oct, but would be interested in any observations along the Way.

Buen Camino

Arn

 

[ConnachtRambler]

Day 1: Porto to Vila do Conde

Saturday, September 24, 2011

We followed Brierley's advice and took the Metro to Mercado and started walking at 8:00am. First lesson, if you are buying two tickets for the Metro from a machine, you buy one and then the other one. If you ask for two tickets you receive one ticket for two journeys for one person. We had that explained to us ("for the next time'') by a ticket inspector.

At Mercado the Metro stops at the steps to the bridge over the harbour. Coming off the bridge we continued straight for a short distance to a roundabout and there turned left down Rua de Hintze Ribeiro to the sea. For the next 15-16 km we were able to walk beside the sea on either promenade or boardwalk. We ventured on to the send once and found it difficult.

We had to use the sand briefly just short of Castro Sao Paio - the yellow arrows were very reassuring here. After S. Paio it was back to the board walk and in the next village we must have missed an arrow. We had to go back to the beach for short distance before climbing stairs to a car park. Not liking the look of the next beach without a boardwalk we turned inland for about 150 metres and found another arrow. We appeared to be in Vila Cha at that stage.

Following the arrows we again reached the sea at Bairro da Louca where we stopped for a long leisurely lunch at Dunas Restaurant. Head for the bar and not the restaurant as there seems to be a huge difference in price.

Brierley suggests a long walk along the beach from here. We chose to follow the arrows which took us away from the sea. They eventually took us on to a dirt track which seemed to go on forever. Shortly after joining the dirt track we came to a Y-fork without an arrow - bear right.

The arrows did their job and we arrived at the Estrogen do Brazao hotel, in Vila do Conde, at 4:30pm. The hotel, which I recommend, has a stamp for your credenciale, the beautiful old church nearby, where we attended Saturday evening Mass, does not.

We picked up our credencial at the Cathedral in Porto yesterday - perfectly straight forward. Desk to the right just inside the main entrance. About 12 others signed in ahead of us on the same day. We failed to see any other pilgrim today.

By the way the weather was perfect for walking. Cloud or hazy sunshine, light breeze, temperature about 18C. Liam

 

[Arn]

Liam,

Most assuring descriptions and cautions on routes and non-routes. Seems the beach is fine as long as there's a boardwalk or, at least, hard packed sand.

As for key info on twists and turns...I'm sure JW will incorporate any key changes in the update to the CSJ guide.

As to bars vs. restaurants...I've found that bars are for drinkers that want a tapas to go along. A restaurant is for a main meal with a drink to add a bit of class. I'll go for the drinking every time.

Buen Camino

Arn

 

[Portia1]

Have just returned. I want to amplify what Liam wrote about the coastal route between Matosinhos and Vila do Conde. Take the Metro (since we were in Porto for three days, including our start, we purchased the tourist card which gives unlimited metro, bus and tram access for three days for 15e. We used it a lot to get around.) to Mathosinhos Mercardo--you will step off the metro at street level. Bear to your left and go up the spiral stair to the bridge--again bearing left. Go over the bridge and bear left at the roundabout on the other side. Keep straight to the sea. You will have to cross a busy highway to get to the boardwalk. You will be turning to the right (north).

Follow the boardwalk--there are arrows here and there. Bars scattered here and there. We took the boardwalk all the way up to Barrios and then onto the sand for about 250 meters to a path (you will see a confusing arrow to the right--take the beaten path and not the one the arrow seems to point to. There will be a couple of monuments, you will cross a little bridge and then you will find boardwalk again. Lovely bar at the north end of the boardwalk. He signed a rock (just what a pilgrim needs, right??) for each of us with the date and location. From there it gets a little difficult. There are arrows but not enough of them. You will wander through neighborhoods, then through a sandy pathway through cane fields and then you will come to the intersection Liam talks about. There is a taxi stand there with an ATM (!!). There are NO arrows at all there. You can go straight along a shaded cobblestone street or turn right unto a paved highway. We made the mistake of asking the taxi lady--who told us to go straight. This was WRONG! You should, as Liam points out, bear to the right until you come to the main highway and turn left to go over the bridge into Vila do Conde. We went straight, meandering around on that road, until a lady on a third floor apartment balcony called out to us to turn right at the next street--then turn left at the next road (a little uphill, small houses). This then takes you to a road ending and onto a dirt road which then takes you along the river to a paved surface and eventually to the bridge. Far more complicated than it had to be. We never saw an arrow in Vila do Conde or on the bridge.

The next morning, the bar/cafe owner told us to follow the river. You do go straight, past the convent, past the silos (on your right) until you come to a T intersection. Go to the right and follow the road. Not sure we saw a single arrow. Now here is where things again get interesting. The Camino location has changed and the "alternative" in Brierly is now the Camino (and in my edition, Brierley's map is not only wrong but mislabeled which can lead to MUCH frustration). You will be looking for the sign to Junqueria (OK, I don't have the information in front of me so I'm not sure about the spelling)--but when you see this directional sign (right after a delightful little bar on the left), turn right and go over the stone bridge and keep bearing to the left. Then you are basically following the road (people are driving FAST and there are stone walls limiting the space for pilgrims and cars!!). Then follow the directional signs for Arcos. Lots of little towns. There is a farmacia in Junqueria and a beautiful little church and cemetary. Once you get near Arcos, you will join the regular Camino (entering from the right via a pathway through cornfields) and the arrows (which have been non-existent to this point) will suddenly appear in abundance. Although we had encountered several pilgrims on our Vila do Conde route (who were just as frustrated as we and we ended up walking all together as misery loves company), there were many more pilgrims when we hit Arcos.

When you reach Rates, there is an unnecessary detour which does take you to the church (to the right in front of you at the pedestrian crosswalk) but which routes you through the back alleys (it's longer, and more of those pesky cobblestones you will learn to hate) back to the main road you could have taken instead if you turn immediately right and follow it up straight to the albergue and/or continue on the Camino toward Barcelos.

The Rates alberque is nice. Get the key from the woman at the small tienda just up the street. There really isn't a sign at this shop (which is very small, has limited supplies)--she also has a sello. The Rates alberque (donativo) has nice showers, an equipped kitchen and turned out to be one of our favorites. There are picnic tables in the patio so sitting out and journaling is pleasant. There is a much larger supermarket close to and east of the church but in a modern strip center where we were able to get fresh lettace, etc. to make a lovely meal.

 

[sulu]

Liam and Portia,
Thank you both very much. Great detail.
Congrats Portia if you have now finished.
Bom caminho Liam
Sue

 

[McNickj]

Thanks for the detail Liam and Portia1....

I'm planning to this Camino in April 2011. Of course I could use all the help I can get so I'll be following your camino...

Bom caminho to you and your wife Liam - keep up the good work.

Go raibh maith agat,
Jim

 

[Arn]

Portia,

Great descriptions and you've convinced me that starting a bit farther north may be the answer to limited travel time. I am one for arrows and clear directions. It looks like the info you and Liam offer will go a long way to updating the CSJ guide.

Thanks very much and welcome home!

Arn

PS. would appreciate additional insight on remainder of the CP. A

 

[ConnachtRambler]

Day 2: Vila do Conde to Pedra Furada

Sunday, September 25, 2011

Breakfast was included in the cost of the hotel and as the local baker started work late on Sunday we didn't get on the road until 8:30am. We retraced our steps the short distance back to the bridge where we had noticed a Camino sign on our arrival. Unfortunately the arrow suggested going down stairs, under the bridge and back towards the sea. The map in Brierley's book shows the route going up river so we decided to ignore the yellow arrow on this occasion. Perhaps the arrow pointed to a coastal route.

There were no further yellow arrows so we followed the route as best we could. We passed through Touguinha and then Touguinho. Near the top of a hill we stopped for a rest and took out Brierley to see how we were doing. According to the map, if we were following the purple dots, we shouldn't have been in Touguinho at all, but I photographed the sign on the way into the village so I am not imagining things.

We decided to keep going and a short time later saw our first yellow arrow since leaving Vila da Conde. Shortly after that we arrived in Junquiera which reassured us that we were following our chosen route. I am still confused about the Touguinho sign. Brierley's positioning of it agrees with Nokia's Ovi maps - maybe it is more an area than a village.

We eventually joined up with the proper Camino just short of Arcos and immediately met our first fellow pilgrim, Nora who is living in Vienna. We walked with Nora for a while and our paths crossed frequently right into Santiago.

Our plan was to lunch in Sao Pedro de Rates but the only bar was off the route and we had gone too far when we learned about that. We survived on fruit and water until we reached Antonio's in Pedra Furada at around 4pm.

Those of you who have walked the Camino will know that it is mistake to feel any sense of relief when you reach your intended town or village - the bar or albergue that you are looking for will always be one or two kilometres away at the far end of the village. That's how it was with Antonio's but it turned out to be a very welcoming place. The room reserved for pereginos was already taken but we were offered a room that is used for storage and had a small double bed. We would have been willing to sleep on the floor. We learned later that two women pereginos, who we had chatted with before they passed us out, decided not to take the room because they knew we were hoping to stop there. We will be eternally grateful to Odile from Germany and Joy, her Filipino neighbour, for that act of kindness.

We had a very enjoyable evening there, having dinner with a Dutch couple, who were in the room we had hoped to get (they were more deserving, having walked from Lisbon), and learning about life in Portugal from Antonio. Herman and Marjet were of similar vintage to ourselves but very much fitter.

If you ever walk the Camino Portugués be sure and drop into Antonio's.

 

[ConnachtRambler]

Day 3: Pedra Furado to Alta da Portela

Monday, September 26, 2011

We said goodbye to Herman and Marjet on leaving Antonio's as they were taking the scenic route. That involved a climb and we only do climbs when we have to. We met them again in Barcelos and no doubt our paths will cross again.

The Camino follows cobbled roads much of the way from Pedra Furado to Barcelos and was mostly downhill, making for a very pleasant morning. We arrived at 11am and spent the next couple of hours sightseeing. Barcelos is both interesting and attractive but why is photography banned in the beautiful Bom Jesus church?

Brierley advises the pilgrim to stock up on food and water for the walk to Ponte de Lima. Going through Barcelos we were on the lookout for some sort of supermarket or grocery store but found none. Fortunately we were able to stock up at a very small shop near the albergue at Portilo.

If the morning was relatively easy, the afternoon was tough, mainly due to the heat. The temperature at 11am had been 25C and it got hotter.

We felt a great sense of relief when we came to the sign which said Albergue Pereginos 2.8km. Life got better minutes later when we heard a shout and looked back to see a woman who had come out of a vineyard to provide us with grapes. We were each given a bunch of the most delicious grapes; they tasted quite different from any I have eaten in the past.

That 2.8km turned out to be deceiving as it was uphill all the way. We were exhausted when we reached the albergue at Alto da Portela. The albergue, however, must be one of the finest on any of the Caminos.

Here we again met Nora and for the first time Manuela, another German.

 

[Portia1]

Arn--don't be afraid to take the coastal between Matosinhos and Vila do Conde. It really is nice to walk the boardwalks along the sea. Yes, the arrows could be better but I think you have good information between Liam and myself to do this route if you wish. Liam must have the same Brierley edition I have as we experienced the same confusions. The newest one is a little better, especially in this area of the CP. What information would you like about the CP? If you have specific questions, please ask and as well as follow Liam's information. His experience is mirroring mine for the most part, though we stopped in different places. We took it a little slower.

 

[Arn]

Portia,

My concern is more with the time I have available. I like to move with a purpose and the thought of second guessing leaves me cold. That said, being a trailblazer has its appeal also.

I find it most interesting how CR recounts the 2.8 km walk "uphill" to Alto da Portela. How true that so many times the albergue is beyond the town limits (so we walk farther than anticipated), or we set out sights on an albergue just a few kms ahead...to find it "uphill". Emmmm, I don't have much Spanish in my bag but I think alto means: high. Is there a message there?

After being on the Forum for these few years and completing the CF, I was sure I wouldn't get too excited about another Camino. Boy was I wrong!

I find myself going thru the same rituals that so many of the Forum members do: pack and unpack...then repack again. Take out the "might needs" and keep the Must haves. Read as much as I can...decide on a course of action...then modify and adjust - one more time. Yup, the Camino is taking charge again. I should just go along and enjoy the ride, er...walk. Not far to Oct 8th.

Thanks Portia, Liam and CR for the great updates.

Arn

 

[Portia1]

Arn: I spent a good hour this morning putting together a blow-by-blow all the way up to Ponte de Lima but it disappeared into cyberspace when I hit submit. I will try it again so that you have it before you leave.

If the weather good, I found walking along the sea to be really delightful. The boardwalks are a nice surface, relatively flat so you can make good time if you want to, and there is minimal sand walking required. I do think it is longer than Brierley protrays it. We started around 8 am (the metro connections took a while) made two stops along the way for refreshment, and got to Vila do Conde around 3 pm. I generally walk 2.5 mph (which has some time for stopping built in) and it took seven hours. That would compute to somewhere around 17 miles rather than his 13.9. It was a hot, sunny day but the steady sea breeze made ALL the difference.

The CP is not as well marked as the Frances and there is a tee-shirt in Santiago that says "Donde esta el (f----kg)" with an arrow?". We saw Several folks who walked the CP wearing them! But if you have walked the Frances, you have a good idea what to be looking for. I think it would be challenging for someone who has not been on the Camino before--but certainly not impossible. And it never hurts to ask! The Portuguese especially were helpful--though we certainly didn't find many who spoke any English.

 

[Arn]

Portia,

I like the T-shirt message. Now imagine one with key phrases:

Dónde está el baño;

ciudad alburgue;

camino;

Farmacia, etc.

Just point to the appropriate question and walk on. Oh yes, on the back in large letters:

¡gracias

Works for me!!!

 

[buffet]

Good morning, my wife and I are doing the Camino in May 2012 and we are living from Porto. Can you tel me your route, town or city where do you get your stamp on each stop. is it easy to find hotel or auger? . We plane 8 days from Braga to Santiago . Thank you

 

[ConnachtRambler]

We arrived in Santiago yesterday (Wednesday) at 3:45pm, a day earlier than planned. We have a few aches and pains but feeling great. Spent last night in S.M. San Martin Pinario. Had booked a hotel for tonight so have had to move. Had dinner in San MNartin last night and it seemed that everyone we met on the way heard we were there, or just found us, so we had a great evening.

Have daily updates omn my phone which I will transfer to forum when I get the opportunity.

Liam and Pauline

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Congratulations! Will your avatar picture now change to a Camino Portugues photo?

 

[Arn]

Liam and Pauline...congrats on completing the CP and your early arrival in SDC.

Seems like just yesterday I was among the many sending you two along the Way.

Depart this Saturday for Faro, Portugal arriving evening of the 9th. My initial intention was to begin in Barcelos, but based on your narrative and additions by Portia and Bieramar...I might start in Porto and make adjustments to arrive in SDC as required. Something about walking along the ocean that is a soothing draw.

Bom Caminho

Arn

 

[ConnachtRambler]

Day 4: Alta da Portela to Ponte de Lima

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

We we're on the road by 7:30am and arrived in Ponte de Lima almost nine hours later, after covering 24km. Walking conditions were good as the sun didn't really come out until well into the afternoon. It was, nevertheless, a very tiring day.

Brierley does well to urge caution over the first few hundred metres as the road is busy and twisted and without a footpath. After that we were on byroads or dirt tracks for a pleasant if uneventful walk. We were not looking forward to the climb half way through the day's walk. Although almost as high as the previous day it turned out to be quite easy by comparison.

We met Michaela from Germany for the first time and later Nora caught up with us. We chatted for a while before she went on her way. Having completed the climb it was time for lunch which consisted of a ham roll and some fruit, eaten by the side of a secluded woodland path.

It was downhill almost all the way for number of kilometres and after that we were mostly on level ground. We were making very good progress but not as good as we thought. We stopped to photograph a small wayside church and then got out Brierley to check our progress. I wrongly convinced myself that I had located the church on the map, which meant that we were three or four kilometres further on than we expected. It took another three or four kilometres before I realised my mistake. That made for a long last few kilometres although it was in fact very scenic once the first bridge in Ponte de Lima came into view.

The Camino crosses the many-arched medieval stone bridge and, once across, the peregrino has reached the albergue. We failed to read our guidebooks in sufficient detail and were surprised to learn that it didn't open until 5:00pm - we had 40 minutes to wait. By the time it opened about a dozen or so were ready to check in. I think we eventually had 18 people sleeping in what is a very fine albergue.

After showering and washing clothes we strolled back across the bridge for a bite to eat. We almost immediately met Odile and Joy, Herman and Marjet and, for the first time, Hari from Holland. The seven of us had a very enjoyable meal together.

 

[ConnachtRambler]

Day 5: Ponte de Lima to Rubiães

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

Light rain made for pleasant start to the day after the heat of the previous days. It wasn't wet enough to require rain gear but we did put the waterproof covers on our backpacks.

We like to combine breakfast with our first rest stop about an hour into the day, but Brierley had the first bar/cafe more than 8km away so we grabbed an orange juice at the cafe beside the albergue and started walking.

The further into the walk, the less appealing 8km before breakfast felt. Our luck was in, however, as a new restaurant/bar had sprung up along the path, 5.1km from Ponte de Lima according to the GPS on my phone. An orange juice, coffee and warm pain au chocolat set us on our way. While there we picked up an attractive stamp, depicting a trout, on our credencials. It was here that we met three Belgian peregrines that we were to bump into frequently in the following days.

By the time we had reached the recommended cafe/shop, 3km on at Arco, we were ready for a long cold drink. We were also able to order filled rolls for lunch which we had planned for the top of Alto da Portelo Grande.

Leaving Arco we started our first climb of the day. It is always a bit depressing to start climbing knowing that it will be followed immediately by a descent and then another longer, steeper climb. On this occasion I actually felt quite good as the initial climb did not take nearly as much out of me as I expected.

When it came to the real climb I still felt better than I had hoped and it wasn't until about the last third that I really started to wilt.

At the top, the highest point of the Camino Portugués, we enjoyed our lunch in the company of Herman and Marjet, who had passed us on the way up, and Joy and Odile who were just behind us.

The sun came out while we were at the top and it became a little too warm for walking, even downhill. We eventually covered the 5.2km to the albergue at Rubiaes. This is another fine facility, but unmanned in the afternoon. Someone arrived after I had fallen asleep and locked all the doors. In the morning I was unable to open any door to collect our washing, but one of the Belgian pereginos eventually figured out how to open a sliding door. Before we left someone arrived to register everyone and stamp our credencials.

Inside the albergue at Rubiaes leaflets told us of a cafe 400m away. A sign outside pointed to a restaurant 1km away. We thought we could make 400m so off we went only to find it closed until 7:30pm. There was nothing for it but to keep walking. It was worth it. We were provided with rolls and butter, mixed salad, more pork, chips and rice than we could eat, a glass of red wine and two cans of Fanta all for €15.50 for the two of us.

The mostly uphill walk back to the albergue was tough on a too-full stomach.

 

[sulu]

Hi all!
I´m currently in Rates having done Porto to Vila de Conde yesterday and onto Rates today.
Liams and Portias guidelines were very helpful though we didn´t find any difficulty with arrows until we got to the Caravan site at Avore then they stopped but nearly at vila do Conde then. Very sunny and windy, nowhere to fill up with water on last 5 kms or so. Many of the beack kiosks are now closed. There are some wonderful places for grilled sardines,but don´t leave it too late.
Todays walk was OK but very narrow roads are a put off. Lovely to see arrows again.Using computer in Rates and out of time!
Sue

 

[Arn]

Great stuff Sue...leaving on the plane tomorrow...

YES!!!!

Don't slow down.

Bom Caminho

Arn

 

[petro]

Hi Arn,

Wishing you lots of luck. Have a woderful camino!
God bless.

Petro

 

[IrishKate]

Liam and Pauline,
I scrolled to the end of the page so missed your post from Santiago that you are now finished. Well done, great achievement. I hope you enjoy the rest of your hols. We spent a day and a night in Santiago de C. a couple of years ago when we were driving around in our camper. It gave us the idea of some day doing the Camino.
Hope to be in touch with you when you return to Ireland.
Best wishes
Irish Kate.

 

[Portia1]

Bom Caminho, Arn! Am looking forward to your reflections on the CP. Travel safely.

 

[ksam]

Bom Caminho Arn!!! God...you off today!! Can't wait to see your posts on this route!! Hope the weather is as lovely as everyone else has been reporting so far this summer and fall...and nothing like what I saw three * years ago!! So excited for you!! Enjoy, Pax, Karin

 

[ConnachtRambler]

Liam and Pauline...congrats on completing the CP and your early arrival in SDC.

Seems like just yesterday I was among the many sending you two along the Way.

Bom Caminho

Arn

Thanks Arn,

I thought when I returned to Ireland I'd have lots of time to tidy up my notes and post the remainder of my diary but a million other things demanded attention and the task is still not complete. I hope to finish it by tomorrow.

You should now be well on your way and I hope it is as enjoyable for you as it was for us.

Bom Caminho

Liam

 

[ConnachtRambler]

Day 6: Rubiães to Tui

Thursday, September 29, 2011

The plan was to limit ourselves to a 16.2km walk so that we would have the afternoon for sightseeing at Valenca. Stops were well spaced out – a light breakfast at Sao Bento da Porta, ice cream and an Aquarious some 8km further on and lunch in Valenca around 1:00pm. I was disappointed with the lunch - ordered a tapas variety and was served some bread and a few very thinly cut slices of different chorizos, little more than you might receive free in a bar when ordering a drink.

Along the way we had again met our new friends and we all decided that we would have time to look around the Fortaleza in Valenca before heading on for Tui. Pauline preferred to rest so I was able to wander while Pauline took care of the backpacks and relaxed with a coffee.

Constant reference to Brierley's map is essential to find the best way out of the Fortaleza. We had the map in our backpack and thought we could find the best exit without it. That cost us a kilometre or two.

Crossing the bridge into Tui, and into Spain, we saw another peregrino ahead of us and when we eventually caught up, or rather when she stopped to rest, it was Michaela. (We don't catch up with people unless they stop to rest).

Once again we should have paid more attention to Brierley who would have sent us along the river before climbing to the Cathedral albergue. We instead took the more circuitous yellow arrow route.

I am not sure how much sightseeing there is to do in Tui. We got to see the Cathedral and surrounding streets but having climbed to the top of the hill we were not prepared to go down and climb it a second time.

Seven or eight of us had arranged to meet and we enjoyed the peregrino menu at a nearby restaurant. It was there that we said farewell to Herman and Marjet who would have left Santiago by the time we arrived.

Contrary to Brierley the Cathedral albergue did not have cooking facilities or a downstairs lounge, unless we hit on a language problem – it was a case of no eating or drinking inside the albergue. Upstairs was excellent, and just as he described, so perhaps downstairs was being renovated.

It was on Thursday that we became aware of a Russian family on the Camino. We exchanged pleasantries that night and again along the road on Friday but that was the last we saw of the couple and their teenage daughter. I have an extremely limited command of Russian but I think they know somewhat more about us than we do of them. I established that they we're from Moscow and that was it.

 

[ConnachtRambler]

Day 7: Tui to Porrino

Friday, September 30, 2011

We had hoped that we might be able to get breakfast on the way out of Tui but it was not to be; our first coffee was more than 9km away.

On route we had to cross a motorway which highlighted the Spanish approach to lavish spending on new roads. We left a minor tarred road to walk up a dirt track and enter a forest. Round the first bend the dirt track gave way to tarmacadam which led on to a fine new bridge over the motorway. It was wide enough to carry at least three lanes of traffic but as soon as we were across we were back on a forest dirt track.

A short distance further on we came to Cruceiro San Telmo. Six or seven locals were there with a variety of implements, presumably to tidy the site. They seemed to be bit grudging with their 'buenos dias'.

Coffee and a muffin were really appreciated when we reached Orbenlle and it was helped by meeting up with fellow peregrinos, including for the first time a German-based Iranian and his daughter.

Soon we were in Porrino's industrial zone which continues for a number of kilometres. The road was shortened for a time by the company of Hari, but we were slowing him down so we sent him on his way.

The next bit of excitement was the appearance of the Google camera car. Whether it was recording or not remains to be seen. (I suspect not as I have since checked Google Street View and that stretch of road has already been covered.)

Porrino seems to have a poor reputation because of its industrial zone but it is in fact a delightful town. We had lunch outside a restaurant on the main street and, soon after we finished, workmen started to put up barriers in preparation for some sort of festival.

In the evening the town was thronged with families - walking, eating, drinking and watching cyclists and runners compete in races around a circuit which started and finished in the town centre. Along with Hari we we're in among them enjoying tapas.

This was probably our shortest day. We stayed in Porrino's excellent albergue. The light sleepers we're not as impressed as I was, as the motorway was very close and the party in the town went on late into the night.

 

[ConnachtRambler]

Day 8: Porrino to Redondela

Saturday, October 1, 2011

This was to be another short day - we just wanted to reach Redondela. Our first stop was a very friendly cafe come shop opposite the albergue in Mos. We had again linked up with Hari minutes earlier and he joined us for coffee.

Coming up the hill to the cafe I was greeted with a very warm 'buenos dias' from a man I took go be a local. Chatting to him later in the shop I found that he had perfect English, spoken with an American accent. He turned out to be a Bolivian who had spent much of his life in southern California and was visiting his sister who lived in Mos.

We had a bit climbing to do after that which ensured that the Iranians caught up with us. We chatted for while before everyone returned to their own pace.

One more stop for refreshments brought us into Redondela and another fine albergue in the town centre. My only complaint was that it was a bit cramped but I think every bed was needed that night. Many Spaniards seemed to be on the Camino for the weekend.

We were in Redondela in time for lunch and were served much too generous bocadillos at the Cafe Bar Central close to the albergue. Afterwards the owner wanted to know where we were from and when he heard Ireland he took us over to show us a photograph hanging on the wall of another Central Bar, this one in some unnamed town in Co. Donegal.

Back near Mos, Hari diverted to Vigo Airport to meet his daughter, Marika, who was going to walk with him for the remainder of the Camino. We met Marika for the first time in the Redondela albergue.

It was Saturday evening and we wanted to get to Mass which was scheduled for 8:30pm, which was awkward. Finding a restaurant to have dinner before that time was difficult and waiting until afterwards would see us locked out of the albergue. We had to make do with a pizza in a fastfood restaurant.

It wasn't the albergue's fault but it turned out to be a very noisy place. I normally fall asleep immediately, but not this time. A festival in the town resulted in much merriment in the vicinity of the albergue. That seemed to be accompanied by a couple of stationary motorbikes being revved up interminably. I eventually got to sleep but others told me that the noise continued into the early hours.

 

[ConnachtRambler]

Day 9: Redondela to Pontevedra

Sunday, October 2, 2011

We left the albergue at Redondela just after 6:45am, our earliest start to date. We were anxious to complete as much of the day's walk as possible before the heat became too oppressive. This meant that we were walking in the dark for more than an hour and for the first time we had to make our way along a forest path by torch light.

The plan was to have breakfast at the cafe at Jumboli as mentioned by Brierley. That cafe wasn't open at 7:45am, at least not on a Sunday. At 9:00am it was the same story in Arcade where both cafes were closed. We were, however, carrying plenty of liquid as well as chocolate and figs so we were able to survive.

I should note that we had some difficulty finding the route at Jumboli. At the cafe the yellow arrow points across the road but almost immediately we were presented with three choices. We could find no markings in the dark and decided to take the right fork. After about 200m we found a scallop tile and at the same received a shout and a wave from three young Chinese pereginos who had stopped further up the road and saw that we were unsure of the route.

We learned later that a cafe was open in Arcade, but off the Camino. Perhaps if we had ignored the yellow arrows and followed the main road through the town we would have found it.

On leaving Arcade we first met two French peregrinos, a mother and daughter from Poitiers who had walked from Fatima. We met them again on a number of occasions after that and finally said goodbye to them on Praza da Quintana in Santiago.

There were two climbs during the day, one before Arcade and one after. The one after wasn't quite as high as the first but felt much tougher although we were over it by about 10:30am.

After Arcade it seemed as if we would not reach a cafe until the outskirts of Pontevedra. With still some 6km to go we came across a kiosk set in garden at Bertola. A cold drink and a toasted baguette with bacon and cheese set us up for the remainder of the walk into Pontevedra.

We had planned to stop at the albergue but as it is 1.5km from the centre we decided to push on. Instead we stayed at Pension Casa Maruja (€30), which is situated on one of the many fine Prajas in the town centre.

A late lunch of tapas turned out to be delicious and we had no need of a dinner. We spent much of the remainder of the day sightseeing or sitting outside cafes watching the world go by.

Anyone on this Camino should make a point of lingering for a while in Pontevedra. Apart from being a beautiful town with interesting buildings, it has a special atmosphere, particularly in the evenings when whole families come out for a stroll and maybe a drink at one of the many bar/cafes.

We were planning to stop at the new albergue in Briallos the following night and we tried to heed Brierley's advice about stocking up on food to cook dinner there, but I was unable to buy any type of vegetable in Pontevedra on a Sunday evening.

 

[ConnachtRambler]

Day 10: Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis

Monday, October 3, 2011

Once again the first possible breakfast stop was too far into the day for our liking but we were lucky to pass a panaderia where we were able to buy a couple of pain au chocolat, and bread with which to make bocadillas for lunch – we had obtained cheese and ham on Sunday.

After a few kilometres we stopped to eat the pain au chocolat but we had completed more than 9km when we finally had a coffee. Already at the café were two Portuguese men and we learned from them that, contrary to what our editions of Brierley, there is indeed an albergue in Caldas de Reis.

The two Portuguese men were no sooner on their way when Hari and Marika appeared and they were soon followed by three German men who had a great deal of experience of the various Caminos.

It was the apparent lack of an albergue in Caldas de Reis that prompted us to plan a stop at Briallos. We could still have stopped there but the night before I damaged my phone charger and I was without a phone which I was using as a camera, to make all my notes and to check on distances covered and remaining. There was a chance that I could buy a replacement in Caldas de Reis and indeed a visit to one of the China Bazaars, that have sprung up in Spanish towns, proved fruitful. For the princely sum of €4 I again had a working phone.

On arriving in Caldas de Reis I wanted to stop at the spa but Pauline was anxious to get to the albergue so we returned to the spa later. The spa, in the town centre, is a sunken water trough with two spouts pouring the hot spa water into it. At 40C I found it difficult to keep my feet in the water for long but eventually I was reluctant to take them out.

That night we were with Hari and Marika looking for a restaurant. We stopped outside one to read the menu and a member of staff immediately came out to turn the board to the wall and said with a smile ‘no food tonight’. At another restaurant we were told emphatically that they would not be serving until 9:30pm (it was around 7:30pm). I know that the Spanish eat late but the towns and villages on the Camino Frances catered more effectively for the strange ways of the peregrinos.

At the third, close to the albergue and probably the one we should have tried first, we were well looked after by the very friendly Jose. The three Germans that we met earlier were in the same restaurant and we got to know them a bit better.

The Caldas de Reis albergue opened in temporary premises in 2010 and the organisers are hoping that the politicians will step up to the mark and agree to fund a custom-built unit. It wasn’t the best albergue we stayed in but perfectly adequate.

I still have qualms of conscience about letting my phone dictate that I should bypass Briallos and continue to Caldas de Reis. When I had last spoken to the Iranians I said I would see them in Briallos and told them that if they had trouble stocking up on food I probably had more than we needed.

When we next met I learned that they and one other person were they only peregrinos in what they said was a beautiful albergue. They also said it appeared to be closed but that they eventually found an unlocked door.

 

[ConnachtRambler]

Day 11: Caldas de Reis to Padron

Tuesday, October 4, 2011

Another early start but now other peregrinos were also getting up early. We were on the road at 6:50am but stopped to make a birthday phone call to our son in Finland.

We made good progress in the dark and it was daylight by the time we stopped for breakfast at Cafe Esperon after 5.3km. The sun had just come above the hill opposite when we emerged.

We made our way past the church and onto the first height of the day at Cortina. Near the top there is school where the children had put greetings on the windows in the languages of many of those walking the Camino. It felt good to see 'Go n'eiri an bothar leat' among the messages.

We were overtaken by a number of peregrinos along the way, some we had met before and some for the first time.

At one point an SUV came up behind us on a dirt track. We stepped aside to let it pass and noticed that it was an emergency vehicle, the Spanish equivalent of the Civil Defence. The driver stopped beside us, not because we looked wrecked but to offer to stamp our credencials. We now have a stamp which reads, 'Proteccion Civil - Concello de Valga'.

Had we spent last night in the Briallos albergue we would be staying tonight in the new albergue near Pino. Instead we had decided to go on to Padron. There is 3km of woodland walk through Pino which is probably the nicest so far.

Curiously the centre of Padron is not well marked. Everything went well until we reached the market and there we ran out of arrows. At the end of the market there was no indication that we should continue along parallel to the river so I turned left to see if there were any arrows on the town centre roads but could not find any. A local assured me that the Camino was on up a busy road and while it got us to the albergue in the end, we would have been better staying close to the river. Of course we once again failed to refer to Brierley who would have kept us on the right track.

I have fallen in love with Pemento de Padron and Brierley suggested Restaurante Asador O’Pementeiro so we went looking for it. Locating it wasn’t easy and when we did find it, it was closed. Newspapers strewn on the floor inside the door made it look like a long term closure but tables and chairs piled up neatly outside suggested it might be temporary.

I later enjoyed my Pemento de Padron at another restaurant a short distance away, and followed it with a very tasty paella. We were again eating with Hari and Marika, with the three Germans nearby while two French women that we had already met a few times were eating with a Japanese pilgrim.

It was there that we said goodbye to the Germans who had walked into Santiago on a number of occasions but had never been to Finisterre and were diverting to there in the morning.

 

[ConnachtRambler]

Day 12: Padron to Santiago

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

We left Padron at 6:50am and required the help of a local after 750m. On crossing a bridge we saw two very large yellow arrows indicating a left turn. As soon as we made the turn a young woman, who had been walking towards us, made it very clear that we should have continued straight ahead.

We took her advice which turned out to sound. Could the arrows have been placed there by the bar owner whose advertisement in the albergue offered breakfast about a km along the Camino? We didn't see his restaurant.

A short time later we lost the arrows briefly - it was still dark - we took what we thought was the right road and quickly noticed arrows on a parallel road on the other side of an unguarded railway track. We were able to clamber across with ease.

Breakfast was scheduled 6.2km into the day, at A Esclavitude, but nothing was open so we settled for a picnic by the side of the road. Three km further on we did get our first coffee of the day.

We were again passed by Hari and Marika and later by the Japanese peregrino of similar age to ourselves but conversation was limited - we did learn that, like ourselves, he did the Camino Frances last year and indeed may have passed us.

The original plan was to walk from O Pino to Teo. Under the revised plan we were going to find a pension in Milladoiro but arrived there before noon. We decided to stop for lunch and then do the final 6.3km, even if it was in the hottest part of the day.

On crossing the bridge at Ponte Rio Sar we were presented with a quandary. Arrows pointed up a steep hill but pointing to a woodland path was a newish carved granite pillar with a scallop, a yellow arrow and the words Camino Portugués ***** (can't remember the third word or perhaps Roman numeral). We consulted Brierley and his advice to go up the hill.

It was very hot and a very long steep hill. The hospital entrance was near the top and I considered checking in then and there rather than calling out the emergency services a few minutes later when I reached the top.

Further on we found a nice bar where we both had an Aquarius, which set us up for another few hundred metres.

Following the yellow arrows took us to a busy road which was mostly uphill. We ran out of arrows and while my instincts said straight on, a local said turn left. We should have followed my instincts but we eventually made it to the Cathedral. It was a great feeling although without the sense of elation experienced the first time.

We were't long inside the Cathedral when we were spotted by Hari and Marika. We had only met them about six hours earlier but meeting them in the Cathedral at the end of our journeys was quite different.

We had no accommodation booked for that night and Hari and Marika told us about the Hospedería San Martín Pinario where they were staying. That is where we headed and it turned out to be the perfect location for anyone staying in Santiago. It is a beautiful old building a few metres from the Cathedral. Bed and breakfast for two in a hotel-style room was €64 but we settled for the basic pilgrim room, twin beds in a small ensuite room on the fourth floor for €46, buffet breakfast included. The building was once a Benedictine Monastery and more recently the Seminario Mayor and as far as I am aware part of it is still a seminary.

That night we decided to have dinner in the old refectory in San Martin, a beautiful room. It turned out that many of those we had met on the Camino either found us there by accident or heard we were there and popped in to say hello. The hellos and goodbyes were rather prolonged making for a wonderful end to our Camino.

Of course it didn't really end until we attended the Pilgrim Mass in the Cathedral the following day. Last year I think we attended the Pilgrim Mass on three days and failed to see the Botafumeiro in action. This year we were lucky.

 

[ConnachtRambler]

Some thoughts and observations:

I have probably gone into too much detail in describing our Camino but I must admit that I wrote it as much for my own records as to inform others.

I have frequently referred to Brierley and questioned him here and there. I should make it clear that we were using the 2009 edition of the Pilgrim's Guide and the 2010 edition of the Maps. There is a 2011 edition of the guide and I was unaware until I had finished walking that there is a web page with additional changes.

From the time we left Porto until we arrived in Santiago we did not meet another peregrino whose first language was English.

I walked the entire Camino in very open trekking sandals which others thought odd. Last year I only wore sandals for the final hour or two of each day but I found them such a relief that I decided to wear them all day. This year I did not experience the agonising pain in my feet that I can remember going into Larasoana, Logroño and Estella or coming down the steep hill into El Aceibo. That is not to say that my feet didn’t get sore. Like last year I managed to escape without a blister.

At my age my legs are no longer functioning as they were meant to. For anyone else in the same situation I would recommend Nordic walking poles. I doubt if I could have made it without them.

What is it about the Camino that you can feel such pain and tiredness near the end of a day's walk and yet never think of giving up?

For my part, how did I feel as fresh each morning as I felt at the start of day one? I probably didn't look it.

The whole experience now seems somewhat magical and all the aches and pains are long forgotten while the people we met are firmly embedded in our memory.

Time spent in Lisbon and Porto prior to the Camino and in Madrid and Toledo afterwards added to the enjoyment.

 

[ConnachtRambler]

Congratulations! Will your avatar picture now change to a Camino Portugues photo?

Took up your suggestion. That is me in ecstasy at the spa in Caldas de Reis

Liam