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LIVE from the Camino Leaving Lisbon Live (May 2023)

Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances (2017 and 2022), Portugues (2023)
Bom Caminho everyone!

Today (Sunday 21 May 2023) I walked from Lisbon's Se Cathedral to Santa Iria, around a 23 kilometer distance. I'd like to share some updates with you, as a way to give back for all the great advice I've received from Ivar and many forum posters over the years. These notes are in chronological order starting at the Cathedral, and will be split into a few posts.

1. The Cathedral sells Credencials when they're open (generally weekdays 0930-1800, Saturdays 1000-1800, closed Sundays, hours may be reduced in winter). For 1 extra Euro, they sell a transparent plastic cover to protect the Credencial, a great idea! You must bring cash, as they will not accept credit/debit cards. They also greatly prefer small bills/coins.

2. The Cathedral is currently being renovated, so a gray work screen covers the initial yellow Camino arrow on its southwest corner. To start your Camino, as you face the Cathedral, keep it on your left side, and walk east down the street with green lampposts, trees, and an iron fence on your right.

3. The volunteers (Via Lusitania?) have done an excellent job overall signposting the Camino, but there are some tricky areas as you work your way out of Lisbon. This isn't like the Camino Frances, with seashells in the pavement and yellow arrows aplenty. It's very helpful that the Camino to Fatima (the main Portuguese pilgrimage route) and the Camino Portugues share the same path here. So if you see blue arrows, and/or a sign to Fatima, you're on the right track! Guidebooks, apps, and Google Maps are all good sources to find the path(s).

4. But there are a few specific spots where a pilgrim could lose confidence. I respectfully suggest that arrows be added (or freshened up) at:

a. where Rua do Paraiso enters Largo Gomes, instructing pilgrims to continue straight northeast;
b. along the serpentine crossing before and after Rua Mirante crosses Rua Diogo do Couto;
c. where Rua Calcada da Cruz dead-ends at Colegio Dona Maria Pia, there should be an arrow/sign telling the pilgrim to bear right onto Rua Me. Deus.
d. at the spot where Rua do Acucar dead-ends near the Marvilla Art District, there's a barely discernable arrow on the right bend on Rua Fernando Palha; please touch up this forlorn arrow;
e. the redeveloped section between Passieo do Baltico and Passeio Adamastor. Lots of development happening here, so the Camino is in flux, e.g., the pedestrian footbridge over Alameda dos Oceanos was chained off.

Again, I put forth these suggestions positively, and with great respect for all the volunteers' hard work.

5. When you reach the Tagus River, make sure to turn left on the Passeio de Neptuno bike path (by the Bike Shop Cafe); do not continue east past the parked cars onto the wharf, as the path north from there along the jetty is under construction.

(Continued next post)
 
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A selection of Camino Jewellery
6. The next five kilometer walk along the Tagus River is beautiful. Most of us pilgrims enjoy the historical aspects of Caminos (I assume), but it's nice to walk on a modern Way as well. There are many nice places to eat on this stretch (most open at 1100 or 1200) as you enjoy the view.

7. Ponte de Rio Trancao update: please see attached five pictures. It looks like the suspension towers, main deck, and footings are finished. The approach and ramp (at least on the south side where the Camino currently passes) are still a work in progress. I think the Bairro Boardwalk, leading north from the north (far) side of the bridge, is complete, but I was too far away to confirm this. A hospitalero told me she thinks the bridge will be opened by the Pope when he visits in early August, but none of the many signs around the bridge listed a potential completion date.

(Continued next post)
 

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8. The albergue in Alpriate, the traditional end point for the first day, has permanently closed. The pilgrim must find another place to sleep, so I have a suggestion for a variation until the Ponte de Rio Trancao opens:

The Camino currently crosses the Rio Trancao on the Ponte Sacavem (Highway N-10), about one kilometer west of the upcoming bridge crossing. On the north (far) side of this bridge, the Camino turns left (see first picture), and follows the north shore of the river north and west through Portela da Azoia to Alpriate.

My suggestion is to not turn left, but walk 1 block further north on the left side of highway N-10. On the left (west) side of the highway, past some industrial buildings, a small road called Rua Capitao Salgueiro Maia leads up a small hill to an old water tower. (It's the left-hand road in the picture below; the wider highway N-10 continues to the right.) Continue straight north through the towns of Bobadela, Sao Joao da Talha, and Santa Iria, which all have restaurants. Santa Iria also has a large modern hotel on N-10 which (solely based on my experience today) seems to have lots of available rooms.

Note: please support local and/or small businesses whenever possible, so if there are any open albergues on this section, use them instead. Also, Caveat Peregrino: only leave the Camino if you're comfortable using Google Maps or an app to navigate.

9. It is certainly feasible to walk north along highway N-10, but you may want to wear a yellow/flashy safety vest. There are sections with sidewalks, but also spots with a high concrete wall, a really narrow breakdown shoulder, speeding cars, possibly distracted drivers, and you (see third picture.) That's why I took the route above instead; there were still a few traffic circles to cross, but even these were much safer than the highway.

So all in all, a great first day! Big shout-out to Ivar, the Camino volunteers, and the many helpful posters on these forums. Please share any corrections / comments / questions / complaints here, and I'll add more information / clarifications / apologies as needed. Hope this helps and Bom Caminho! --- Lou
 

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8. According to Google Maps, the albergue in Alpriate, the traditional end point for the first day, has permanently closed. (If this is wrong, please fix your Google listing.) If true, the pilgrim must find another place to sleep
Yes it is true, and it has been mentioned in several threads.

Well done on completing your first day!
 
Thank you for taking the time to share your experience along the Camino Porteugues from Lisbon, very much appreciated! My brother and I will journey via bicycles, since we both have major knee problems and I have other major health concerns, and we can no longer hike long distance. So cycling more quickly than hikers, we might miss the camino indicators at the tricky parts, or take a wrong turn when there are no clear markers for the camino. Your tips are invaluable!

I am heartened that you suggest GoogleMaps, which is my goto in Europe. In this forum, in answer ro my question, some replied to use other apps than GoogleMaps.

“the redeveloped section between Passieo do Baltico and Passeio Adamastor. Lots of development happening here, so the Camino is in flux, e.g., the pedestrian footbridge over Alameda dos Oceanos was chained off.“
- What path did you then take?

If I’m able to, I will bring along yellow paint to help mark The Way. Or will this be considered graffiti, since I am not a camino volunteer?

In the words of the American baseball Hall of Famer and manager, Yogi Berra, “When you see a fork in the road, take it”.
 
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