LIVE from the Camino Le Puy to Santiago. Finally!

[michael heitzman]

Today I walked from Le Puy to St. Privat d'allier. The hike was rough. It wouldn't have been so bad but I only had a croque monsieur the day before at 13:00 and decided to check out chapelle st. Clair and notre-dame du France with my 22kilo pack. I figured I could just grab a croissant on the way out of town, nothing was open that early but everyone was baking and it all smelled so good. Took a wrong turn at the first gr65 sign and walked into the wrong town then walked back. Finally got some food in Saint-Christophe-sur-dolaizon and by food I mean a baguette with a can of green olives stuffed with anchovies which was amazing when you're starving. Then I had anchovie burps. I almost stopped in Montbonnet but remembered reading there is a huge hill just outside of St. Privat d'allier. Wrong, it's actually outside of Monistrol d'allier. Payed 66 euro for the only Demi-pensione available but at that point I would have payed 100 for a hole in the wall. Got four blisters, fell skating and got a goose egg on my elbow, and my allergies are bad.

This thus far is the greatest thing I've ever done. I knew right when I climbed out of Le Puy and saw my first poppy. The people are kind even when I say, "je parle pas francais" they just laugh. I heard a cuckoo bird today that wasn't in a clock. The landscape is picturesque and it's cold, which I'm grateful for. It's only my first day and I'm so exhausted but I can only hope I continue feeling the way I do, except being sore and covered in blisters.

 

[Deleted member 36903]

Le Puy and Le Monastier are beautiful places good food for the soul. The evidence of this is there in your heart-warming attitude; finding happiness despite your various physical discomforts. Buen Camino Michael!

 

[SabsP]

Ultreia to you Michael!

 

[wotbus@]

by food I mean a baguette with a can of green olives stuffed with anchovies which was amazing when you're starving. Then I had anchovie burps.

Nothing to do with the Camino; just to let you know there are other delights...
I recall a tour (bike) with a mate Cherbourg - Bordeaux - Cherbourg. There was one day so hot, the roads so open, the roads were the only things open (strike/Sunday/Holiday who knows) and we were in the middle of nowhere.
Late evening, completely whacked, dehydrated and starving with no option but to rough camp and tough it out, we ate what we had as our evening meal - shared a tin of Mackerel in Spicy White Wine sauce with Capers and Chopped Onion from the tin, and half a bar of dark chocolate each!
Bon courage

 

[GettingThere]

Great to hear you're in good spirits after a tough first day! Take care of those blisters so they don't cause you problems - you have a long way to go on those feet. Keeping well hydrated helps prevent blisters so make sure you drink plenty of water through the day. And keep enjoying it all, you have a great attitude!

Bon chemin!

 

[SusanReneGr65]

Love your energy!
We were never without some sort of food in our packs, i.e. nuts and raisins, or baguette and cheese. France can be challenging for finding food. But so worth it, as you've already found out.

 

[wonzi]

Loved your post! Reminds me of our first day from Le Puy! We got lost going out of the city and ended up walking about 6 miles the wrong way. Neither of us spoke French but when we stopped to ask directions in this little town, the lady told us the best thing to do is go back and start over. We looked at each other and thought: Where is there a bus? So, we jumped on the bus and went back to START and off we went. We didn't make it too far that day but for total kilometers, we did a lot! One of the best Caminos! And, we went all the way to Santiago! Enjoy every step.

 

[ranthr]

Bonne route! Do not expect to get food anywhere, so be prepared.

 

[Sue M]

Have a great time! It's like having a baby (I speak from experience, having had 3) a you forget the pain and remember the acbievement! Otherwise I wouldn't have had 3 kids or walked on the Camino 4 times!

 

[VNwalking]

Bon Chemin, Michael!
Fantastic attitude...that'll carry you a long way!
Just take good care of the blisters because you'll need those feet.

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi Michael
I guess you're fully absorbed into the way now.
Looking forward to more of your ' take ' on this route. You say you had the locals laughing but your post made me smile too.
I hope you're coping okay with blisters, head bumps and finding enough to eat !

Bon Chemin
Annie

 

[michael heitzman]

The Le Puy route is hard. I'm on day whatever and it's still hard to find motivation in the morning but somehow I keep going. I'm currently in Limogne.

The day after my first post I met a young German and Dutch couple that have now become dear friends. They ended in their trip in Conques and I've missed them since. Most people ended in Conques, I haven't seen many people on the road since except people heading in the opposite direction.

My blisters became much worse due to me trying to travel at a pace beyond what my body could handle, but the friends I made wouldn't let me lag behind by myself and I didn't want them to wait for me. So here I am now with healing blisters but now I have bum knees, other foot pains, and I think I might lose a toenail.

Everyone I've met has been extremely kind to me even though I can't speak any French. I only met one rude lady but I think she was homeless and crazy. I figured that bit out later when I realized she was standing in a cave talking to herself but she really didn't like me saying, "bonjour madame" when I should have said "bonswa". She gave me the worst look, then again my French is the worst.

Still a beautiful country, except Decazeville, avoid that town like the plague. France could have a few less hills but those are getting smaller as I head south. It's also been raining nearly everyday which makes skating a little difficult because everyone wants to see me whiz by them but I'm afraid of wiping out on the wet roads.

Hopefully I'll see one of you on the road. Also if you meet a stern German fellow named Joachim, tell him to slow down because I miss our conversations.