Le Puy to Navarrenx to Oleron-Ste Marie to Jaca via Col du Somport

[lunna]

In Jaca now and sadly have to end my stroll here - work calls! .

I ate more than I should have along the way, even as a vegetarian (not vegan!) - cheese, cheese, cheese! The scenery and the French people I met along the way were fantastic. The views via the Voie d'Arles section were especially incredible - plus, getting off the St Jean route in Navarrenx was a welcome break from the hordes of randonneurs along the main trail.

A few hairy parts along the Gave de Aspe, but otherwise quite an easy and enjoyable walk. The stroll to Col du Somport was a snap - very gentle inclines all the way. The Estacion Canfranc in Spain was a complete surprise for me - both fascinating - and chilling. Overall, one of my favorite European hikes to date, despite the hassle, until Navarrenx, of often having to reserve a bed at gites for the night. My only minor regret (other than having to return to work) is that I didn't start in Geneve or further north. Next time maybe!

 

[Scott Sweeney]

In Jaca now and sadly have to end my stroll here - work calls! .

I ate more than I should have along the way, even as a vegetarian (not vegan!) - cheese, cheese, cheese! The scenery and the French people I met along the way were fantastic. The views via the Voie d'Arles section were especially incredible - plus, getting off the St Jean route in Navarrenx was a welcome break from the hordes of randonneurs along the main trail.

A few hairy parts along the Gave de Aspe, but otherwise quite an easy and enjoyable walk. The stroll to Col du Somport was a snap - very gentle inclines all the way. The Estacion Canfranc in Spain was a complete surprise for me - both fascinating - and chilling. Overall, one of my favorite European hikes to date, despite the hassle, until Navarrenx, of often having to reserve a bed at gites for the night. My only minor regret (other than having to return to work) is that I didn't start in Geneve or further north. Next time maybe!

We returned home late week from this route.
We began in Pau and continued to
Puenta la Reina and back to Saint Jean. Coming off the Argonese and onto the Frances was like night and day. Going from one or two people in an albergue to masses of rude crowds. It's to bad you had to stop in Jaca the rest of the walk is beautiful. What did you think of the light show in Estacion Canfranc? It was a relaxing walk, but I'm sure it will not remain that way long.

 

[lunna]

We returned home late week from this route.
We began in Pau and continued to
Puenta la Reina and back to Saint Jean. Coming off the Argonese and onto the Frances was like night and day. Going from one or two people in an albergue to masses of rude crowds. It's to bad you had to stop in Jaca the rest of the walk is beautiful. What did you think of the light show in Estacion-Canfranc? It was a relaxing walk, but I'm sure it will not remain that way long.

The light show was great. The silence of Canfranc-Estacion, given its history, was very creepy. I loved the town itself though.

Off to Huesca now - by, OMG! - bus. I always feel sad when I get somewhere other than by my feet - especially after more than a month. It’s okay, missing the rest of the Aragones this year - I had lots of great solitude last year on the Via de la Plata. And in the end, until I retire, at least, I can’t have it all. I’m happy with my 800 km walk this year Loved practicing my French this year but welcomed the last few days basically being almost the only one on the trail from Navarrenx. As for the Camino Frances - it’s great for the 20/30 somethings,but definitely not for me - the Le Puy was the busiest Camino for me in a while, but still fantastic.

 

[intrepidtraveler]

Would you please be more specific about "the hairy parts?"

This route looks fascinating and I am considering doing it at least in part in 2018. Since I will be traveling solo I am a little concerned about a lack of other people to socialize with. I don't so much mind walking alone during the day but being alone all night as well might become too much of a good thing. About how many others did you meet up with once you turned off at Navarrenx?

Thanks for taking the time to reply.

 

[frida1]

My husband and I walked from Montpelier to Puente la Reina last May, via Oloron and Col de Somport. I'm not sure we saw any other walkers between Oloron and Canfranc. After Canfranc we saw maybe 8.

I don't know what is being referred to as "hairy parts." The walk from Oloron to Somport I think took 2 or 3 days, not difficult. The route from Borce to the Col was steady and gently climbing. From the Col to Canfranc was descending, but not difficult. I thought the route was beautiful, but it is very quiet.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Would you please be more specific about "the hairy parts?"

There is a section near the end of the Aspe river valley after Bedous where the French randonneur group recommends taking a taxi.

If you walk the road to avoid a wet and treacherous path a few miles out of Oloron-Ste.-Maria, there is no shoulder on a very winding road. You need to peek around the corner before venturing forward!

 

[lunna]

Would you please be more specific about "the hairy parts?"

This route looks fascinating and I am considering doing it at least in part in 2018. Since I will be traveling solo I am a little concerned about a lack of other people to socialize with. I don't so much mind walking alone during the day but being alone all night as well might become too much of a good thing. About how many others did you meet up with once you turned off at Navarrenx?

Thanks for taking the time to reply.

No problem. There was only one part I didn’t feel totally comfortable with, as I’ve taken a tumble in the past, and that was about a 3 km stretch before and a 4 or 5 km stretch after Sarrance. You’re about 50 or more feet above the Aspe River on a very narrow path (not much wider than I am, and I’m fairly slender), with several parts of that trail washed out or broken, and therefore even narrow - usually not for more than a couple of steps or two, but also more frequent than I would have liked. In addition, the trail itself is slanted, for want of a better description (not even to the ground). Other than that, the hike from Navarrenx and beyond was a snap.

The monastery in Sarrance, although advertised as donativo, was not, but it was great anyway (the hospitaliere asked for 25 euros but I got her down to 20 )- only one other pilgrim was there - a German teenager who I met a few days before. For what it’s worth, he really enjoyed the parts I just described.

In a pinch, you can always walk along the National highway if the above gets to be too much - though once committed, it takes a while before the trail intersects with the road (it does this a few times). I actually messed up at some point after Sarrance and ended up on the road and just walked it into Bedous.

Before I forget, after Bedous the trail is tricky - I followed the white-red marks through a cow pasture and a steep’ish downhill to the river itself where it just ended - my German friend told me that at a fork after the cow pasture (I can’t recall if it was after a gate or not) you turn right, and not left as the white and red blazes indicated. Apparently the white and red marks reappear if you turn right - but not at the fork itself.

Throughout the whole chemin actually, the markings are not always at the forks, but it is fairly easy to figure out your way, even so. To make up for this, there’s often three or more white red blazes on straight-always where you absolutely don’t need them- go figure!

One last suggestion - do walk the Valle de Cele variant - though I had a lot of rain and the trail was a bit steep and slippery, I’m glad I did. You have to see it for yourself to know why it’s worth the extra day hiking.

 

[intrepidtraveler]

Many thanks to those of you who have taken the time to provide clarity around this route. Still undecided for 2018.

 

[Rionajmc]

Many thanks to those of you who have taken the time to provide clarity around this route. Still undecided for 2018.

Oh, I do hope you go! I didn't walk the whole Arles route - I started (at the very end of April 2017) in Pau, and walked Lescar - Olorons Ste Marie - Somport - Jaca - Puenta de la Reine, and from there all along the main route to Santiago. It was a beautiful contrast to do both part of the Arles/ Aragonese route, and the Camino Frances, as they are both very different. Arles/ Aragonese is very quiet (at that time of year, maximum 10 people a night), and you do need to book each night in advance, but beautiful, and there are some absolutely stunning places to stop - the monastery at Sarrance and the abandoned village of Ruesta were two particular highlights. Lots of communal meals and very peaceful, though even in May some hostels were not yet open.

I ended up walking with two retired couples from France, and because of one person's bad ankle and some terrible weather we took the highway for the day we crossed over Somport. Some of the trails before that were a little slanted and narrow, but I don't remember any truly hairy bits.

Feel free to ask any specific questions, which may help jolt my memories!

 

[High Endeavours]

Thanks for your encouraging words and sharing your hilites. Around the 20th of September I plan to start the Arles route at Castres about 140 kms east of Toulouse and then walk on to Santiago. I expect to join the Frances around the middle of October after the early fall pilgrim bubble has passed by, perhaps arriving in Santiago in early November. I've been giving the route some thought, but its still a long way off to get too involved with at this point. Though it is fun to read others comments about it!

 

[intrepidtraveler]

Oh, I do hope you go! I didn't walk the whole Arles route - I started (at the very end of April 2017) in Pau, and walked Lescar - Olorons Ste Marie - Somport - Jaca - Puenta de la Reine, and from there all along the main route to Santiago. It was a beautiful contrast to do both part of the Arles/ Aragonese route, and the Camino Frances, as they are both very different. Arles/ Aragonese is very quiet (at that time of year, maximum 10 people a night), and you do need to book each night in advance, but beautiful, and there are some absolutely stunning places to stop - the monastery at Sarrance and the abandoned village of Ruesta were two particular highlights. Lots of communal meals and very peaceful, though even in May some hostels were not yet open.

I ended up walking with two retired couples from France, and because of one person's bad ankle and some terrible weather we took the highway for the day we crossed over Somport. Some of the trails before that were a little slanted and narrow, but I don't remember any truly hairy bits.

Feel free to ask any specific questions, which may help jolt my memories!

Thank you for your reply. Cute cat in your avatar picture!