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Le Puy Forever!!!

scruffy1

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Holy Year from Pamplona 2010, SJPP 2011, Lisbon 2012, Le Puy 2013, Vezelay (partial watch this space!) 2014; 2015 Toulouse-Puenta la Reina (Arles)
I am very glad to have totally enjoying walked about half the Le Puy Chemin this Spring and wish to pass on some important guidelines.
The sense of shared mission, fellowship, and camaraderie in France is exactly similar to that of the Camino Frances. However, there are some very profound differences between the two which I propose to outline.
1) The stages from Le Puy until Figeac are much more challenging than anything you may find in Spain-Route Napoleon isperhaps more difficult but it may be accomplished in a day and a half.
2) The French gite is usually more spacious, cleaner, offers a more tempting dinner and is more expensive. They gite owners actually prefer one to reserve in order to plan your dinner.
3) Many many stages pass through nature, tiny villages, even small towns with nary a café/bar, restaurant, or grocery to be found-the Spanish custom of stopping for coffee, a pleasant prepared sandwich, a cool beer in the warmer hours does not hold in France if you yourself have not prepared!
4) Mondays!! Everything is usually shut tight, café/bars, boulangerie, pain depots, supermarkets, and stores. If you leave out early Sunday morning you may find everything closed Sunday evening and all day Monday, starving until Tuesday morning - you have been warned!
5) The French Confraternity/Chemin authority is truly concerned for the pilgrim. They have insured a good stiff climb every morning but every morning to allow the pilgrim to validate that his/her cardio-respiratory systems are working well-likewise every evening when one is tired and only thinking about miam miam there will usually be a good steep slippery and/or rocky descent down the gite – they are also most considerate of the pilgrim and have no hesitation to send one and kilometer and a half down a crevasse across a swift flowing stream by means of a non to steady rock bridge improvised by previous pilgrims clambering/scrambling up the other side all in order to save a far less 600 meters on the road-so use your initiative and intuition on these matters and use that map
6) Lastly for now, in rainy and wet weather, water runoff will behave like electricity and will seek and find the easiest way down a slope – meaning the Camino! Stretches labeled "maybe somewhat boggy" by Ms Raju are absolutely and totally swamps!
7) Cele Valley? Don't think twice - Do It!
 
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Thanks. This is good information. I can't wait to start this walk. Only 3 months to go!
 
Thanks for sharing Scruffy. Happy to hear you enjoyed yourself.

Any stand out gites?

Only 8 days to go!

:)
 
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Had a chuckle reading your post Scruffy. Many times I headed towards the steeple rather than follow the signs on a circuitous route to a village.

Couldn't agree more with your comment about the Valley of the Cele. So much variety in a short distance. I didn't go that way when I walked from Le Puy so went back last year to walk the Valley - what a delight! It's definitely on my "must do" list.
 
TravelingSonn
I stayed in so many special places hard to choose which are better, none were unpleasant
Prinsuejols Le Relais du Prinsuejols walked over the Aubrac in two days because of a blizzard not recommended even for the stouthearted Prinsuejols is off the chemin but the gite is a real classic inn, arrived half frozen and received about two quarts of pot au feu for my dinner and was instantly revived!
Saint-Chely d’Aubrac Gite d’etape Saint Andre just as you come into the village nice rest warm welcome good dinner
Conques-the dormitory is like any large Spanish albergue and not especially appealing however the evening dinner is a grand experience you will hear Ultreia properly sung, don’t miss the evening pilgrims blessing and do stay to hear the organ music afterwards!
Avoid Decazeville at all costs but just beyond on the hill above next to the church is a small acqueil hostal highly recommended, donation, a steep climb immediately after the descent bypassing Decazeville a good place just to rest St Michaels(?)
Cahors-Serge!!! Just across the bridge at Le Relais des Jacobins just when you are about to give up trying to find it there will appear an old friend the mark of our secret brother/sisterhood-a yellow arrow on the sidewalk! reserve since this is a very popular stop, when he asks if you wish to eat there the right answer is YES
Ultreia Moissac 45 Avenue Pierre Chabrie, Moissac wonderful Irish couple do go to hear the nuns singing vespers as well as lauds the next morning at 0800 or 0830 don't worry about the time that next day is mostly towpath and very easy they serve a very generous dinner very Irish in character (yes, lots of potatoes) not French and they are truly nice people
In the Cele Valley Marcilhac sur Cele the municipal gite and Jean Jacques is a joy St Cirq Lapopie is quite nice a-f-t-e-r all the tourists have gone and the shops are closed
The Bonneval Abbey where the nuns make wonderful chocolate! Small place reserve-much nicer then Espalion which does reveal an incredible number of sporting goods stores should hyou need something-do not miss the Romanesque church of Perse just before Espalion!!! It is a jewel entrance is gined by the smaller side door just push on the button
Bon Marche!
 
Scruffy, thanks so much for posting the great advice and info regarding the Le Puy. Unfortunately, I will be starting from Le Puy on Monday morning, which now doesn't seem so smart. Based on what you are saying, I should load up on provisions for the next 24 hours. If you had to start on a Monday, what would you recommend regarding supplies, where to stop at the end of the first day, even if it is a hotel, can I expect to get a meal at the end of the day at my final resting point, and should I go ahead and book a place now for the that Monday evening. Obviously your warning has been taken seriously by me. Thanks, Rick
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Le Puy is large enough that you will find stores open. When you reserve your accommodation for the first night (use Miam Miam Dodo) ask for demi-pension and that will ensure you get dinner. We spent the first night at Montbonnet in a gite next door to a cafe.
 
Great idea re the demi-pension. Thanks, Rick
 
Hi Rick
Tried to respond earlier but I must have mashed the wrong button and it went off into that place where unsaved documents, crashed computers, and misguided emails all end up. The dp is the answer however do check your MMD to make sure your chosen destination will actually provide your vittles-quite a few don't. Also be forewarned, the French are convinced that pieces of petrified baguette are the perfect breakfast offering, one is expected to liberally spread with jam or preserves and to dip into the coffee bowl-softening the bread and sweetening the coffee at one go. First night? I alas cannot be an advisor, I possess a deviant personality and will readily gallop off the chemin after a rumor of a beautiful church, a signposted interesting ruin, a farmer making cheese, a vineyard with tastings, a local festival or celebration, a prehistoric cave or a Celtic stone often ignoring guide books recommended gites, and accepted paths. Left Le Puy for the church in Saint Christophe sur Dolaison, up to Bains for the same reason over through Fay which had no room in the inn and back down to Montbonnet according to the recommendation of Mme Vial who was leaving for Easter vacation. A typical day which is always loaded with surprises.
S
 
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Scruffy, thanks again for the valuable insight. I'm sure that, like the Camino Frances, you always find a way and the tough days are the most memorable. Rick
 
Scruffy, thanks for taking the time to share your insights. As always, I'm truly grateful for the insights freely shared on this wonderful forum.

Peace to you all.

Merci beaucoup,
Sonia
:)
 
scruffy1 said:
5) The French Confraternity/Chemin authority is truly concerned for the pilgrim. They have insured a good stiff climb every morning but every morning to allow the pilgrim to validate that his/her cardio-respiratory systems are working well-likewise every evening when one is tired and only thinking about miam miam there will usually be a good steep slippery and/or rocky descent down the gite – they are also most considerate of the pilgrim and have no hesitation to send one and kilometer and a half down a crevasse across a swift flowing stream by means of a non to steady rock bridge improvised by previous pilgrims clambering/scrambling up the other side all in order to save a far less 600 meters on the road-so use your initiative and intuition on these matters and use that map

Okay, you made me laugh. =)

For anyone hiking in August, though, swift-flowing streams down the Camino are not a issue! At least they weren't when I walked it. I think that's more of a "spring offering." =)

-- Ryan
 
Train for your next Camino on California's Santa Catalina Island March 16-19
Many thanks for taking the time to post these tips. I start Le Puy on 15th with a very bad cold and appreciate the help. Angela
 
I even miss the town of Le Puy. I'm hoping to return and start the Regordane or Stevenson from there. Why not both? Glad you enjoyed, Scruff...but I knew you would.

Rob
 

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