LIVE from the Camino K's San Salvador 24

[KariannNor]

Day 1 - Leon - La Robla

A mentally challenge day, this is going to be tought. If this is a heatwave or the temp continues, I can not make it.

Walking through town and the bells of the cathedral ringing for me got me so emotional. Feel so blessed and thankful for doing another walk. So privileged having a body able to, free time and health.

Very proud I made a plan last night. To not have a plan. Really have enough with the mentally and physical challenge now, can not let this obseccion I have of top bed etc take more place and energy. So, will do as much as I can, also decided to walk phone-free, if possible. Just for pictures (personal ones not on google) and calls home evenings. The didn't have GPS mediale? And this is so well marked. Only got lost once, took the bridge to the left into La Seca because of a sign there saying "Peregrinos something", locked doors, but of course thought I was to go into and out of that town. Many splits no arrows after some time, so turned on phone and had to walk all town backwards back over the bridge.

Ohh, that river, souked t-shits into so many times trying cool down.

So nice leaving road after Carbajal, but then the sun started burning really hot in the desert like place hard to find shadow and no wind. The brain is a strange place. I know so well that when really tired, crisis thoughts comes rolling in. So, in hundred degrees in middle of nowhere, in day one only first of hours, I realized I had seriously broken Mountain Code nr.1, always tell others where you will go. If I die of heat stroke here, they will not miss me in 10 days not coming home and no idea where to search, my bones will lay here forever, well maybe people here will build a "Santa Kari" sometime? And so on..
And then bumped into a big festival in Campiello. Big bands and people matching and big celebration. What a surprise, spent an hour just watching. Unfortunately no sello in the church and albergue closed. Was so temptet to stay there, but filled my bottles and went on. So really now want to do this, if weather allouds me, in the 6 days. Then I will have two days to spare if bad weather.

Chrisis nr 2. In the, actually steep up nearly on hands down, and, fortunately kind down before up from the river before Campiello, I realized that, if this sand and rocky ground had been wet, my hokas really would not had a change. So this thread could might as well be "crazy woman doing Salvador in sandals and trainers".

Of course choosed the right way (as in not left!) Into Robla. Came in 17.30, so proud walked straight into M/D albergue, and here I am in queens bed only person exept one man! Ahh, all the energy in fears.. So, after trying cool down in 30min cold shower (and stole some ice from the fridge) me and my Spanish friend (who of course know everything about my home country because of wife been in Germany?) do some very tireding google translation over vino blanco and micro food we both carrying all the way... no idea open restaurant, my Municipul debut, so did not know.. well, was incredibly nice saying good bye to hysteric people starting CF at the split, no tictac from pooles, listen to music etc whitout earpods, pee wherever I want, freedom
Hei

My watch says 33km, that can't be true even my private detour La Seca.
Whats best weather app?

Thank you so much experienced people following, much appriciated.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Good on you Kari, what a wonderful start! You mention dipping your shirt in the River many times, I assume you also soaked your hat?
Wonderful idea to try and disconnect as much as possible, good on you and Buen Camino!

 

[KariannNor]

Good on you Kari, what a wonderful start! You mention dipping your shirt in the River many times, I assume you also soaked your hat?
Wonderful idea to try and disconnect as much as possible, good on you and Buen Camino!

Oh yes, those t-shirts I had over my head and everywhere, but only cooled down for a while until dry.

 

[VNwalking]

Buen fear-free camino Kari!
What an adventure.

Whats best weather app?

Meteoblue...

 

[KariannNor]

The video probably to big, from the festival yesterday.

 

[KariannNor]

Day 2 - set back day

Slept for 9h in the quiet albergue in La Robla. Perfect after impossible to sleep in Leon because of partying and drunk people outside (Saturday). One man showed up late, so we were 3 there.

Fortunately temperatur s have dropped, so glad for that. Nice walk out of Robla, lots by road, but clouds and perfect walking temperatur. Really enjoy this walk and time alone. So well marked, nice to be total free from phone.

Breakfast/lunch and shopping for food in La Pola de Gordon. There it started to rain a bit, not much. Almost in Buiza it rained a lot + wind. Sat in a shelter trying to figure out what to do now. Knew that 10km of up to 1462m and up/down ahead. I have so much respect of mountains and weather that the forecasts cannot predict. So I made a decision, walked back to la Pola de G. So here I am in a private room, no albergue here. Trying not to be depressed by being not even half the stage 2 at day 2.

Talked to home and now pushed my flight home two days ahead. Now not have to be in Oviedo before 20th. So, the luxory now for at least one more short day.

To recive the certificate in Oviedo have now become kind of important for me. But think that if I can't make it this time, I will do later.

Tomorrow says light rain from 12. Will start early to reach Poladura. Would like longer, but see now, and like some of you have said, the next stage then to Pajeres will be really tough. So don't think I can make it to there from here in one day.

Enjoying this beautiful town and going to mess in the church later.

Norwegian Mountain Code nr. 8, "There is no shame in turning back". But of course, now its clear sky.

 

[VNwalking]

In the mountains it is far better to be safe than sorry. Buen camino, Kari!

 

[sun is shining]

@KariannNor - we stayed in Pola de Gordon too and had the best burgers in a whole month in Spain at the corner restaurant. Try the patatas bravas / alioli combo, fantastic to get your spirits back up.

You made a wise choice. We walked von Pola to Poladura in rain and it was no fun (plus we missed out on some fantastic views).

 

[unadara]

As Sun is Shining did not go to Pajares I’d like to add a note here. We found the day from Poladura to Pajares long enough and couldn’t possibly have gone further. However Enders guide tells you in detail the directions which you need. It’s a long descent into Puerto de Pajares, After the Parador stop for drinks you reach the official route up and over to reach the path descending into Pajares. The first sign in Enders guide points sharp right and brings you into a very Muddy forest. I would recommend the 2nd sign a Granite bollard. It is still a long walk into Pajares where food awaits if you’ve messaged (use Sun is Shinings brilliant help). We ate twice at the Mirador. You can also Book the Mirador Hostal to stay and eat. The next stage to Benduenos we walked the 5km road before turning into the most wonderful forest path to Benduenos (El Fresno). I have posted also in April. I had read Enders guide many times and was able to read it as a pdf when I needed reassurance. We had hail showers on Mountain into Poladura.

 

[KariannNor]

As Sun is Shining did not go to Pajares I’d like to add a note here. We found the day from Poladura to Pajares long enough and couldn’t possibly have gone further. However Enders guide tells you in detail the directions which you need. It’s a long descent into Puerto de Pajares, After the Parador stop for drinks you reach the official route up and over to reach the path descending into Pajares. The first sign in Enders guide points sharp right and brings you into a very Muddy forest. I would recommend the 2nd sign a Granite bollard. It is still a long walk into Pajares where food awaits if you’ve messaged (use Sun is Shinings brilliant help). We ate twice at the Mirador. You can also Book the Mirador Hostal to stay and eat. The next stage to Benduenos we walked the 5km road before turning into the most wonderful forest path to Benduenos (El Fresno). I have posted also in April. I had read Enders guide many times and was able to read it as a pdf when I needed reassurance. We had hail showers on Mountain into Poladura.

Thank you so much for your advices.

 

[KariannNor]

14.mai Day 3
La Pola de Gordon - Poladura de la Tercia

Hey, now we're talking, beautiful mountains and views. So lucky with the weather, perfect temperatures all way, windy in heights, some rain but not much.

Been worried because not been able to get a detailed paper map. I'm really good with map and compass, but no use with a compass in fog, rain etc if not know where you are? But no worries now, its so well marked and nice trails. And when my phone works, Gronze map is perfect. But of course, got lost once. I ran down after the Alto and the split because of some (at least 10?) very scary big barking dogs coming after me. Probably just watching the cattles, but I was really afraid. So must have missed an arrow, and thought the village in that valley was San Martin de la Terzia, but when I came there, it was Rodiezmo. So took the 5 km road walking to San Martin instead of going back.

Though I was the only one walking, but so glad I was nr.2 in the albergue and got low bed. 9 here now, have to start really early tomorrow trying get low bed (railings only one side there too). But a pension there, so maybe book there.

Food panic last night (of course I should have read this "must reserve thing") worked out, no problem get dinner here. But 2 arrived now, will not get, so you were right. Fridge don't work, so throw away all my cheese, fish and megapizza.

Nice walk, but tireding souked wet feet all day. Just have to live with this stupid choice of shoes.

 

[KariannNor]

Sorry size, and you've probably seen this thosands times in this group, so just delete if not interesting.

 

[unadara]

Pajares has many many beds. Marisol is lovely . You go straight into Mountain from Poladura and you might wait until Sun rises at least. I kept my ham and cheese in that fridge there was no problem? I the Posada where you go for your meal they have Motor newspaper supplements, I took a few and smiled at Owner? Para mi botas… he just laughed. They dry quickly as Ernesto turns on the heating.

 

[KariannNor]

Pajares has many many beds. Marisol is lovely . You go straight into Mountain from Poladura and you might wait until Sun rises at least. I kept my ham and cheese in that fridge there was no problem? I the Posada where you go for your meal they have Motor newspaper supplements, I took a few and smiled at Owner? Para mi botas… he just laughed. They dry quickly as Ernesto turns on the heating.

They have 15, 12 full here now, and people coming have to do the hotel. No, the fridge is total broken, believe me, I have try carried it to different soccet. But everythings fine, make them pack something from the dinner.

 

[KariannNor]

15.may - day 4

Poladura de Tercia - Llamos de Someron

Again so lucky with the weather, perfect walking temperatur all way. Beautiful scenery, almost 360 view at alto nr 2.

A tough day physical and mentally. Up first part nice. In Puerto de Pajares at 9, breakfast/lunch there. Then the awfully steep down decents took me hours and hours in babysteps. Felt my knee (old injury) after some time, had to eat lots of Ibuprofen at San Miguel, and the short last stage was painful. It has been mentally tough the bed (actually relevant) bed fear, the suddenly panic told from someone that had to bring food and get reservation, the phone not working and constantly weet feet.

No problem food in Poladura (though they sure would have liked to know!), no need to carry food and you don’t die by having weet feet (it just feels like some times). Anyway I always have my maxcalori bars in my emergency kit (tastes like grass), so, would survive anyway.

Now drinking lots of wine and depressed because of the knee, have a competition in a few weeks. Don't need the "should have" comments now. And not advices to slow down, I will jump on the other leg tomorrow if I have to.

Such a shame and sad the Municipul albergue in Poladura is in such a bad condition. And the olds only living there, in such a beautiful little town. I've had my first and only stay at a M alb. The place should be burned down, the electricity system, the gas system and the moisture (or what its called) in the walls is terrible. I opened all windows try get oksygen all the time, the others shut them. Because of their stinky, not washed clothes should dry. No no, not for me. Yes, yes, probably better places, but will not take that risk again.

So happy staying in beautiful Llanos, talking with the horses and hens, beautiful fruit flowers, wow what a place. Fortunately safe places rest of my way.

 

[OxfordHiker]

Hello, so there you are, I didn't realised you posting on separate title.
Just been reading your posts so far and great to hear your sorting these issues that come up, you are doing great, love the photos too.
looks really nice to walk this route, all makes me jealous as I have 4 months to wait.......
Buen Camino Pilgrim

 

[sun is shining]

I've had my first and only stay at a M alb. The place should be burned down, the electricity system, the gas system and the moisture (or what its called) in the walls…

Just as a reference for future Salvador pilgrims. Our experience in Poladura (one week earlier) was completely different. Hot water, lots of blankets, electricity working fine, super well equipped kitchen and absolutely lovely hospitality. It’s certainly an older albergue but let’s not forget that we are pretty much in the middle of nowhere in a tiny hamlet and still being provided with cheap (and absolutely adequate) pilgrim accommodation.

 

[KariannNor]

16. May - Day 5

Llanos de Someron - Pola de Lena

Can't recommend the albergue in Llanos enogh. Welcoming young couple running it, clean, nice dinner and breakfast, garden. And that village is the cutest and most charming I've seen.

So lucky with the weather, perfect temperatures, no rain or wind. Nice walk, but really hard time the very muddy parts last 5km before Campomanes. The awful last decent was so slippery in the mud, I falled over several times just grabbing to the trees.

Nice lunch in Campomanes, walk in the park from there.

Well marked, but look at picture 1, (6.3 after Llanos), a split (pic 2). Main trail forward, but a tiny one to the right. Checked Gronze, it absolutely wanted me to take the right one. Did for a long time (but 50 meter can feel like a mile in such terrain), still pointed to the right. Went into an awfully muddy slippery decent and then suddenly ended in nothing. Should followed my instinct and walked straight forward. Of course such a turn would have an arrow marking, but you never know, they can fall down.

Luxory private room in Pola, recommendations in Mieres? Very glad for easy walk tomorrow. They say rain, but I can take everything except the muddy decents today. Now wash shoes and backpack in the shower.

 

[sun is shining]

The walk into Mieres is not the most inspiring (mostly on asphalt) but it’s short enough. Important!! Avoid the alternative that takes you to the right through the forest (the blue trail in Buen Camino) - it includes a super steep and slippery descent.

 

[unadara]

Just as a reference for future Salvador pilgrims. Our experience in Poladura (one week earlier) was completely different. Hot water, lots of blankets, electricity working fine, super well equipped kitchen and absolutely lovely hospitality. It’s certainly an older albergue but let’s not forget that we are pretty much in the middle of nowhere in a tiny hamlet and still being provided with cheap (and absolutely adequate) pilgrim accommodation.

I also want to add, we had a good night sleeps at Poladura Albergue and no complaints at all. There was only one vacant bed. As I said in my post Ernesto the host went out of his way to order in Take away food for a Portugese family. As we enjoyed our evening meals so much in the Posada we slept well and managed to have a quick breakfast using the Microwave and making sandwiches to take with us for the Trail. There was a box of blankets and we were able to leave a window open a small bit, it was a very cold week, we were there before Sun is shining.

 

[KariannNor]

17.May Day 6

Pola de Lena - Mieres

Flat, easy walk, most by the road, second half by the river. Choosed listen to the birds and water instead of the traffic. Almost suksessed.
Because of the short distance I had time for an hour inside the church in Ujo. Love the old churches. Would very much have liked a sello, but noone there.
Found out I like some flat boring walk also. Gives time for reflection without watching carefully every step. This Camino has both.
Celebrating Constitution Day

 

[OxfordHiker]

Hi Kariann,you must be getting close to the finish.
Hope you have enjoyed it, i have
Buen Camino Pilgrim

 

[KariannNor]

18.may - day 7

Mieres - Oviedo

Rain all day. Muddy parts, fortunately the Roman stones was not as bad as expected.
Picture 1, right before Padrun. Arrow to the right, walked up there, after some time ended into this fence (pic 2), not possible to crawl under (if it was, I would have). Went back, the right way is 15meter forward to the arrow (pic 3). One of my three private detours of the day.

 

[David Tallan]

18.may - day 7

Mieres - Oviedo

Rain all day. Muddy parts, fortunately the Roman stones was not as bad as expected.
Picture 1, right before Padrun. Arrow to the right, walked up there, after some time ended into this fence (pic 2), not possible to crawl under (if it was, I would have). Went back, the right way is 15meter forward to the arrow (pic 3). One of my three private detours.

I had one of those unintended detours for several km until I wondered about the long distance between yellow arrows and checked my app, only to find myself way off trail, with the only way to get back on trail being to backtrack. That was just after Bendueños.

 

[peregrina2000]

That was just after Bendueños.

David, did you backtrack from Bendueños to Herias or did you try to take the trail that is supposedly marked from Bendueños directly to Campomanes? I’ve been there twice and have always backtracked, primarily because I had read here of several failed attempts.

 

[KariannNor]

..

 

[David Tallan]

I think I backtracked, as recommended. I just missed a yellow arrow pointing to a very small trail off the dirt road I was walking on and continued on that dirt road through the forest for a few km.

 

[OxfordHiker]

Well done you , really pleased you got your certificate. Great to follow your exploits on both Caminos.
I'll try to post something when I'm there in September.
Have a nice flight home.

 

[KariannNor]

Big thank you to "sun is shining" for guiding me via phone through my chrisis. And Peterxkiwi for all moral support!

 

[Moniq]

18.may - day 7

Mieres - Oviedo

Rain all day. Muddy parts, fortunately the Roman stones was not as bad as expected.
Picture 1, right before Padrun. Arrow to the right, walked up there, after some time ended into this fence (pic 2), not possible to crawl under (if it was, I would have). Went back, the right way is 15meter forward to the arrow (pic 3). One of my three private detours of the day.

Thanks for your great posts! I will start this Camino on the 29th of May. Do you remember whether there were blankets in the albergues?
Kind regards
Monique

 

[Moniq]

The walk into Mieres is not the most inspiring (mostly on asphalt) but it’s short enough. Important!! Avoid the alternative that takes you to the right through the forest (the blue trail in Buen Camino) - it includes a super steep and slippery descent.

Thanks for your great posts! I will start this Camino on the 29th of May. Do you remember whether there were blankets in the albergues?
Kind regards
Monique

 

[KariannNor]

Thanks for your great posts! I will start this Camino on the 29th of May. Do you remember whether there were blankets in the albergues?
Kind regards
Monique

There were good warm thick blankets everywhere I was, don't worry about that, they are used to people need warm shelter, just me being too hot, and late May, would be even hotter.. Buen Camino. You will love this, so beautiful. In other words, you don’t need a sleeping bag at all (at least were I was), just a thin liner. I had both, never needed the bag.

 

[beliperegrina]

There were good warm thick blankets everywhere I was, don't worry about that, they are used to people need warm shelter, just me being too hot, and late May, would be even hotter.. Buen Camino. You will love this, so beautiful. In other words, you don’t need a sleeping bag at all (at least were I was), just a thin liner. I had both, never needed the bag.

Thank you for sharing your camino. I was very interested as I will go this way in September.

 

[KariannNor]

Thank you for sharing your camino. I was very interested as I will go this way in September.

You will love it.
Buen Camino
(which noone says here of the ones I've seen walking, just Hola, Bonjour or Buenos Dias or something I don't understand)

 

[sun is shining]

David, did you backtrack from Bendueños to Herias or did you try to take the trail that is supposedly marked from Bendueños directly to Campomanes? I’ve been there twice and have always backtracked, primarily because I had read here of several failed attempts.

Sandra made it abundantly clear to us that we should backtrack to Herias because people kept getting lost on the trail that leads directly to Campomanes. It was a steep start to the day and I was very glad when we finally arrived at the bottom of the valley.

 

[sun is shining]

Well done @KariannNor! You really earned that Salvadoriana!

 

[sun is shining]

Thanks for your great posts! I will start this Camino on the 29th of May. Do you remember whether there were blankets in the albergues?
Kind regards
Monique

Just in case you are planning on continuing with the Primitivo afterwards - there were no blankets available in municipal albergues once you hit Galicia. If you’re planning „just“ the San Salvador you’ll be taken care of blanket-wise in the albergues.

 

[Moniq]

Just in case you are planning on continuing with the Primitivo afterwards - there were no blankets available in municipal albergues once you hit Galicia. If you’re planning „just“ the San Salvador you’ll be taken care of blanket-wise in the albergues.

Thanks! And yes I will continue on the Primitivo probably only till Melide as I am not looking forward to walking with the crowds like last year on the Frances

 

[David Tallan]

Thanks! And yes I will continue on the Primitivo probably only till Melide as I am not looking forward to walking with the crowds like last year on the Frances

After Melide, I stopped at Salceda and Lavacolla instead of Arzua and O Pedrouzo last July and there were pretty much no crowds. Generally, it was no busier than the Primitivo until I got to Santiago.

 

[VNwalking]

After Melide, I stopped at Salceda and Lavacolla instead of Arzua and O Pedrouzo last July and there were pretty much no crowds. Generally, it was no busier than the Primitivo until I got to Santiago.

After Melide I had the same experience this April. Stopped in Boente and Santa Irene.

 

[cLiffordiL]

I am at Lavacolla tonight and I can assure you the crowd is with me!

 

[sun is shining]

The Camino after Melide was - even compared to the large numbers on the Primitivo - incredibly full. While accommodation was available (municipals, some pre-booking places in less well known spots) the trail itself was crowded. Different people have different tolerances and pain points but for us it was way to busy plus lots of ‚interesting‘ behaviour like listening to music without speaker phones, people blocking the path to film videos, general loudness etc. I personally am going to stay very far away from any of the popular routes after this experience.

This isn’t meant to be alarmist but reports of negative experiences might help people that struggle with crowds to make informed decisions. This might include walking different Caminos at different times or taking their (new found) passion for long distance walking to other countries.

 

[KariannNor]

I personally, will ask you to post something about these issues about many people on the trail etc also in a place where more people would read it, about Primitivo for example, it might be useful to others. This thread is maybe most for those interested in the San Salvador, since that is the headline.