Just seeking some reassurance!

[kaylfrazer]

Hi everyone

I have just got permision from my job to take leave from about 30 May to about 15 July next year (2011) so that I can walk from Le Puy to SJPP. I had initially planned to spend about 18 months carefully pondering all the options and training but once I started planning, the lure of the camino was just too strong! This means that I probably need to make some decisons pretty quickly regarding flights (many of the lowest fares from NZ seem to close in a few days time) so I would welcome any comments about whether my very quickly cobbled together plans sound workable.

My previous 2 caminos have been almost entirely in Spain and in Autumn so I'm looking forward to seeing France in Spring. After doing a bit of reading through the forum, June seems to be a reasonably uncrowded time to walk? Will I have problems finding reasonably priced accommodation in the first weeks of July... or perhaps I can make bookings ahead of time from NZ by email for this time? I am not keen on walking in the heat... how hot might the first days of July be?

At the moment I am planning to take 5 weeks walking. In my previous caminos I averaged about 23- 25 ks a day and felt fine at that. Now I am 7 years older, fatter and stiffer (but as my parents walked the camino in their 70s I can't really use age as an excuse!) . I am assuming that I will probably take about 2-3 days to get my self to France from NZ,and get to Le Puy (train?) and another one or two recovering / exploring le Puy day before I start walking. Does that time frame sound reasonable for the Le Puy route?

I am so excited.. but hate feeling rushed in my planning so if anyone has time to comment and tell me I am on the right track it would be very helpful.

thanks
Kay

 

[Caminando]

I'd say June will not have crowds (in France) but could be very hot.

I can't help with your acc. questions as I always use (in France) gites d'etapes, for economy and because I like to meet other pilgs and not cut myself off in a hotel. But someone who does hotels will surely tell you.

I think your time is pretty tight for the journey, but only you know the answer to this one. I mean it's not about calculating each day's kilometres; it's much more subjective than that, much more flexible.

A day in Le Puy is fine; they do a pilg mass each day.

Unfortunately you dont say where you arrive in France.
But there is a train to Le Puy from Lyon Part-Dieu station, several a day. You may have to change at St. Etienne Chateaucreux station. It's a small station.

Training? I get so bored with all that mindless stuff that I just begin my walks a bit slowly till I'm fitter. But I dont know anyone else who uses this easy, life-affirming method. Look, all that time running around madly - you could be drinking a glass of wine, reading a great book, or listening to Bach.

You know something? You'll be just fine, you wont foul up, nothing will go wrong you cant fix. It will be a great Way.

 

[KiwiNomad06]

Kay,
How exciting to hear you are about to book and head off! I gather June is not such a busy month for walkers: you don't have to worry about all the May 'long weekends' for public holidays. You probably will strike some hot days, but it can vary from year to year.

For accommodation, booking a day or two ahead should be fine, and if you want one, you can buy a Miam Miam Dodo guide in the sacristy in the Cathedral where you get your pilgrim credential. It lists all the pilgrim accommodation options along the way, with phone numbers and prices etc. Do take a day or two in Le-Puy-en-Velay to get over jet lag: it is a fascinating place to explore. And the first few days out of Le Puy have lots of ups and downs so you probably would prefer not to be too jetlagged! I don't think you will have too many problems with July accommodation. I gather that the French tend to avoid the heat of walking in the south once summer arrives- and the route gets busy again in September. (That's what my Irish friends in a gîte in Moissac told me.)

The train is easy to book from Paris. You will have to change trains, either at St Etienne or Clermont-Ferrand, depending on what time you leave Paris.

One thing you will find different compared to the Camino Frances is that in parts of the route your daily distances are more dictated by how far apart the villages are. So you end up having to choose between 15-16-17 km days, or 30-32-34 km days. I tended to opt for the shorter variant, so my daily average distances in France were less than in Spain. But lots of people walk from Le Puy to SJPP in about a month, so five weeks will probably be fine. (If not, you can always take public transport from some of the bigger places to get to a train back to Paris...)

Enjoy booking your air ticket Kay!
Margaret

 

[Anna-Marie]

Hi Kay,

I can't comment on walking in June/July. I started walking at the end of August and it was quite hot, but survivable. According to the Confraternity of Saint James, "the central part of the route is extremely hot in summer," and April to June and September/October are recommended, but you'll probably be past the central part--or at least on your way out--by July.

I walked in September, which I believe is one of the busier times on the Chemin du Puy. I usually booked a gite the night before or even the morning of, and only twice couldn't get into the gite I wanted. So I wouldn't think you'd have to book ahead from home (though I don't know if you're staying in gites or hotels?), but someone who walked in June/July should be able to give you better advice.

I wrote about the differences between the Chemin du Puy and the Camino Francés, which might help your planning a bit. The terrain is more difficult on the Le Puy route (you can see an elevation profile here). I took about six weeks, and started out averaging 15km or so, but I also met people who hadn't done any preparation and were walking 20+ km from the beginning, so that part really depends on you.

I took a train to Le Puy from Paris. I think it took a few hours.

It's a wonderful route. I'm sure you'll enjoy it, whatever plans you decide to make.

Bon chemin!
Anna-Marie

 

[dutchpilgrim]

If you still are pondering...

Is it possible to start a month earlier?
You'll miss the greatest heat on the Meseta, the largest crowds in July, arriving at Santiago.
Give it a thought.

Ultreya,
Carli Di Bortolo

 

[Kitsambler]

The Meseta is not an issue, as she walking in France, not the Camino Frances route in Spain (this year, at least).

Arriving at Paris-Charles de Gaulle airport, you can take the TGV train to Lyon, change to the regional to St Ettienne, and then the local to Le Puy. You can get tickets in advance at http://www.RailEurope.com. Total time Paris to Le Puy is about 6 hours including layovers.

The French walk in May and take holiday in August, and the retirees walk in September. So you should not find crowds during your June-early July timeframe.

The first week - actually the first 2 weeks (through Conques) - has significant daily elevation changes, so do not be mislead by the map distance as the only indicator of difficulty. The suggestion to recover a bit from your jet lag first is an excellent one. On my trip, I took an overnight flight from the US west coast, arriving Paris in the morning, and started walking form Le Puy the next morning. I won't do that again!

 

[kaylfrazer]

Thanks everyone.. it is just good to get a second opinion before I commit to my air tickets as the early bird fares close in the next couple of days. I am still a little worried about heat but unfortunately my only options for 2011 are June/July or Sept /October (and the Rugby world cup then in NZ means that most flights are already booked for Oct). Although I walked in some very high temps in August in Spain I am an early riser (I tried not to rustle!) and was able to usually walk for an hour or so in the dark and be at my destination before the worst of the afternoon sun kicked in. I am not sure if this will be as easy in France (fewer other pilgrims to follow in the dark? not as well way marked? waiting for breakfast at gites?).

I'd love to get away without training and have certainly met lots of other people of all ages and shapes who have got away with that, but I know it won't work for me. One of my camino inspirations is a letter from a local hospital telling me that I have an "unusually low oxygen uptake and will find it relatively difficult to achieve any level of fitness". After 2 reasonably pain free caminos I am pretty sure that is rubbish but I do know that training is absolutely essential for me.

The more rugged terrain in the first weeks is also a bit of a concern so I will trya nd do some shorter days to start with. I may have to just go with the flow a little and be prepared to catch a bus if I can't make it in my 5 week limit (not sure if I can actually bring my self to do this.. but you never know!) It will also be hard arriving at SJPP and having to stop...I'm not looking forward to that part, but am trying to concentrate on the good bit.. being back on the camino after so long!

thanks again !
Kay

 

[jl]

Hi Kay, I walked on the Vezelay route last year in July and managed to start at dawn and finish most days by late lunch, which avoided the heat pretty much and so I think you should be OK in the first couple of weeks (because of the highish plateau that you will be on). Where it may start getting tough for you will be when you get down near Cahors. You will no longer have the cooling affect of higher elevations, and the countryside is quite hot limestone country. However, by then you will be acclimatised and will not find it as difficult I would imagine. The flights from Aust. arrive early am in Paris, and I always just leap on a TGV and get straight out of town - in this case to Lyon, where it will be simple for you to catch the next 2 trains to Le Puy.

Ask the tourist office to book for you for your first night (or two) out as soon as you arrive, that way you will be able to have a short day on the first day. If you leave it too late after you get there you might have to go a bit further to find accomodation, and that first day is quite a tough one, especially as you want to go to the Pilgirm Mass early in the morning - which makes it a later start. You will love this way, it is very beautiful.

Cheers, Janet

 

[robertt]

Not much I can add to those great suggestions. To arrive in good form, I like to stop in Singapore, even if it's just to sleep in the hotel within the terminal. I never try to handle the long haul from Oz. (As some here can attest, I'm a bit of a sook.)

I'm not a hot weather walker, but many handle it...so why not you? The Miam Miam Dodo guide has a reliable guide to water-points: even in the cooler months I found that handy.

One great thing about walking in the warm months is the chance to enjoy the Aubrac at its best. I'd love to hear your impressions of that stage. It was brutal when I crossed it early April, but still quite wonderful.

Hey, the whole of the Le Puy route is wonderful!

Rob

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I was told by a French fellow pilgrim that it is French law that you cannot be refused water, whether you are homeless in the street, or a pilgrim on a walk, if you ask for water, it will be given to you. I ran out of water on a hot dusty stretch, asked a farm woman in her back yard if I could have some water, and received it with a smile. French bars generally have a cold water tap between the pression beer taps, and I have received many cold refills there. When the Camino does not provide, your fellow Man often will.

 

[oursonpolaire]

When I was last schlepping through France (hi Janet), a constable informed me that cemeteries always provided potable water, and I found this quite helpful. While the French were always happy to be of assistance, there aren't a lot of them in the countryside, and often small villages seemed closed down entirely, with no cafés. Mairies were usually open half-days and staff seemed delighted with pilgrims as we were a diversion from the the tasks of administering France.

 

[Anna-Marie]

I am not sure if this will be as easy in France (fewer other pilgrims to follow in the dark? not as well way marked? waiting for breakfast at gites?).

When I was walking, no one seemed to get up before 7, so you might not have others to follow in the dark. But it might be different in June/July--I was walking in September with the retirees.

The route is generally quite well way marked. There can be long stretches without way marks when you're just following the same road, though--those always made me nervous, since I'd become convinced I'd missed a turn. And at intersections there are often X's on the roads you shouldn't take. Sometimes I couldn't find the actual positive way mark but used the X's to eliminate all other possibilities.

You also have to remember that unlike the Camino Francés, it's way marked in both directions. I actually got turned around once and walked a few kilometres in the wrong direction. But that's probably just me. I can get lost anywhere.

I suspect if you're eating breakfast at gites, you'll have to wait until 7, though I'm not positive about that. But you could often buy food the night before to eat in the morning.

Bon chemin!
Anna-Marie

 

[kaylfrazer]

What a mine of information and reassurance you all are!I don't think that my previous caminos would have been possible without the kindness of people via the internet. I have just had a long phone conversation with KiwiNomad that has set my mind rest about a number of factors. No one can predict the weather but I think that the camino worth the risk. So thank you all! Oursonpolaire.. you might not remember this but several years ago you also helped my daughter Anna on her first camino, leaving helpful comments on her blog when she was suffering from heat on the meseta !
Kay

 

[KiwiNomad06]

And Kay, you also left encouraging comments on my blog when i was walking!
Margaret

 

[newfydog]

Consider staying in some Chambre d'Hotes. Great way to meet some locals. The tourist office will book for you, and if your French isn't great, they might point you toward a host who speaks English.

I think the route from LePuy has been our all time favorite.

 

[kaylfrazer]

Thanks Newfydog.. err.. what is a chambre d'hote?.. and how does it compare pricewise with gites? NZ dollars don't go far!
Kay

 

[newfydog]

Thanks Newfydog.. err.. what is a chambre d'hote?.. and how does it compare pricewise with gites? NZ dollars don't go far!
Kay

It is a bed and breakfast, except often includes dinner. Pricewise the range is large, but they are equivalent to motels---some pretty cheap, some real expensive. The gites in France cost more than the refugios in Spain, while the cheap motels in France and Spain are fairly equal. I think you get what you pay for...except in France the really cheap (and sometimes miserable) option is not often available.

 

[Frood]

Kay:

I walked this route this September past.

I gather May and September are the big times for the Camino walkers. June is a bit calmer; July and August are more family oriented summer holidays and short term walkers who tend to stay in one place. The owners of Gites in France in fact have different markets.

To organize your accomodation, get the Miam Miam Dodo, a reference guide focused on accomodation. It is generally available (and there is a Camino oriented shop in Le Puy). This highlights a small subset of places; there are lots more advertised along the route and the Tourist Offices may also be helpful. Also, if you do not speak french, you can if fact decipher MMDD.

Get a european phone if you do not have one. I got a cheapo and recharged it as required. You should be ok reserving one day in advance - my experience is based on a September walk, the busy time for geezer market.

Lexicon:

Gite Communale - Similar to a refugio in Spain, often supported by the Commune (local government) and generally quite simple. About 10 Eu, no supper but usually cooking facilities.

Gite de Passage - varied accomodation ranging from dorms to 2 bed rooms suitable for couples, etc. Generally, it is possible to get a Demi Pension, which means bed, supper and breakfast. This will cost about 28 - 35 Eu per night and is a very good exposure to regional cuisine.

Chambre d"hote - Bed and breakfast but also has supper (demi pension). This can be worthwhile since in some of the smaller communities or rural Gites, there may be no other option. Around 35 - 40 EU.

Watch out for Sunday and Monday. Many services are closed on Sunday and Monday for holidays so these are good days for long walks but, you might have carry a bit more food if you are not staying in a place with a demi pension. Buy food on Saturday morning since a lot of places can close on Saturday pm

Language: Ideally, french; if not connect with bilingual folks (from Quebec?) or take advantage of tourism offices or others for reservations. You will be able to get by.

All the best

Frood

 

[kaylfrazer]

Thanks Frood.. that is a great summary. And thanks everyone for your support.. I have now booked my plane tickets to start at Le Puy in the last days of May and finish at SJPP in early July. Having angsted over the decision I now feel perfectly calm again and am enjoying reading blogs, walking with my pack in the early morning dark before work and learning some French. I'll be back with some more angst and questions closer to my leaving date!
thanks again
Kay

 

[Ange]

Hi Kay - I am also planning to start in Le Puy end of May but can only walk for about two weeks. I am still working full time self employed so no holiday pay.... I will be with my French friend and walking partner Christiane, who I walked with on the Camino Primitivo last July. I was really worried that with all the ups and downs - not fit and overweight, and the little walking I did before that I would struggle. OK struggle I did, but it was such a wonderful achievement for us to arrive in Santiago for the 25th July. As I live near the Camino variant GR652 which forks off at Figeac via Rocamador, Fumel and Villeneuve through Agen down to Le Romieu where it rejoins the main GR65 heading for Condom, we have decided to do the walk in stages when I can get time off and have already walked the St Jacques in our area from Pennes through Pujols to Sembas. This year we will endeavour to get as far as Conques before heading back home, which is in between Villeneuve and Agen. I don't know if we will get to meet up in the Le Puy area but if we do you will get an opportunity to practice your French and if you decide to do the variant and need a place to stop free overnight, I am happy to meet you during the walk when you get into my area - the cut off to my village is at the Grottes of Lastournelles about 2 km away from me in Castella. The alternative if you stick to the GR65 is to meet up near Lauzerte which is about half hour drive from here and I could find someone to drop us off next day and we could walk some of it with you. Anyway Happy planning, and with this forum you will continue to get loads of support and advice. It's fantastic and so is everyone who contributes.
Bye for now - Ange

 

[kaylfrazer]

How wonderful to arrive in Santiago for the July the 25th Ange..that must have been quite an experience. I am at quite an early stage in my planning so am not yet sure exactly what I will be able to do but I will PM you my dates in case we are able to meet up. The offer of a night's accommodation is a very kind one, and if things work out I'd love to. Many thanks
Kay