Cheryl Schmidt
New Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Camino Primitivo (May 2015)
Just finished the Primitivo, and it was the experience of a lifetime! I thought I would share our experiences as it may give some guidance. Before going through the stages, a couple of general things:
1. Food can be a real difficulty. In the smaller places, bars serve lunch from 2-4, and dinner starts at 8, and there is little or no food available inbetween. We resorted to consuming bags of chips, or, on better days, often stopping at grocery stores to buy our own lunch.
2. In many places you don't need to book, but with the Primitivo getting more crowded, it is required at times, which I've noted below. You can usually get someone to call ahead the night before to book for you if you don't want to absolutely commit ahead of time to the stages.
3. One of the absolute best things about the Primitivo is the fact that there are fewer people, so we got to know a core group of about 25 people that were travelling at the same time we did. And while we stayed in hotels some nights, the albergues were wonderful places to further those friendships.
4. Our stages are fairly ambitious - for the most part we are fit women in our 50's, but certainly not tri-athletes or anything. We were tired each day, but didn't find it too much.
Day 1 - San Juan De Villepanda - 29.5 km. this is a long day for Day 1, and the last 5 km is a real grind uphill. However, we were happy to have gotten that behind us, and this albergue is a real treasure. There is no "official" food, but Domingo, the host, is extremely welcoming and friendly and was soon cooking spaghetti, hauling out sauce, making us tea.... what a wonderful start to our trek! The next morning there is no food for about 10 km - while there is a sign advertising food only 1 km away, that bar was closed when we went by.
Day 2 - Bodenaya - 24.5 km - Albergue de Peregrines. The renowned Alex has left, but David has taken his place, and is also a warm and welcoming host. A community meal is included in the price, and was wonderful salad and lentil soup. The beds are somewhat crowded, but all clean and comfortable. Definitely a highlight. Light breakfast included as well.
Day 3 - Campiella Casa Hermila - 24.5 km. Here you have the option of Albergue, breakfast, and finner for 23 E, or a private room with private bathroom for 70 E. Since we were 4 people, we paid the little extra and took 2 private rooms. Dinner was wonderful, way more than we could eat, and served communally. Breakfast was not until 7:30 - most of us were long gone by then so just skipped it. there is a grocery store however where you can stock up for the day.
Day 4 - Berducedo - 27 km. We were blessed with good weather, so did the Hospitales route. I can see why it is not advised in bad weather - even with clear skies it was very windy and blustery. But what views! This is a very hard day, and Berducedo has limited beds. I would strongly advise reserving at the private albergue - we arrived around 2 pm and got some of the last beds. There is a bus that will take you from here to the next town, and then come back in the morning. However, if you choose to walk to the next town it's a fairly easy walk.
Day 5 - Grandas de Salime - 20 km. After a hard Day 4, we needed a short day today. However, this is also a difficult day, with lots of downhill. The municipal albergue is very nice - you can't reserve, but should get a bed if you get there at a reasonable time. There is one room with only 4 beds - being a group of 4 we hustled to get there early and were able to get this room. Great kitchen and common area.
Day 6 - Fonsagrada - 25 km - OS Chaos - a private albergue - you can reserve - some small, private rooms - very nice and clean.
Day 7 - Baleira - 24 km - we treated ourselves and stayed in the hotel.
Day 8 - Lugo - 30.5 km. This is a long day, but fairly easy walking. Many accommodation places, but a good idea to reserve. We stayed in "Hostel Alba" - right on the Camino route, just inside the old roman walls. Wonderful city to spend a day in if you want a rest day.
Day 9 - Fereirre - 27 km. - Albergue Ponte Ferreira - private, a little more expensive, but includes dinner and breakfast. Dinner was communal and was some of the best paella I had in Spain. Would highly recommend as a stopping place.
Day 10 - Boente - 26 km. There is a "albergue Boente" here - we booked ahead as there are now many, many people on the trail as you have merged with the Frances.
Day 11 - Pedrouza - 25 km - stayed in non descript place - there are many places available, and likely not an issue finding a bed.
Day 12 - Santiago - 20 km - arrived in plenty of time for the noon mass.
1. Food can be a real difficulty. In the smaller places, bars serve lunch from 2-4, and dinner starts at 8, and there is little or no food available inbetween. We resorted to consuming bags of chips, or, on better days, often stopping at grocery stores to buy our own lunch.
2. In many places you don't need to book, but with the Primitivo getting more crowded, it is required at times, which I've noted below. You can usually get someone to call ahead the night before to book for you if you don't want to absolutely commit ahead of time to the stages.
3. One of the absolute best things about the Primitivo is the fact that there are fewer people, so we got to know a core group of about 25 people that were travelling at the same time we did. And while we stayed in hotels some nights, the albergues were wonderful places to further those friendships.
4. Our stages are fairly ambitious - for the most part we are fit women in our 50's, but certainly not tri-athletes or anything. We were tired each day, but didn't find it too much.
Day 1 - San Juan De Villepanda - 29.5 km. this is a long day for Day 1, and the last 5 km is a real grind uphill. However, we were happy to have gotten that behind us, and this albergue is a real treasure. There is no "official" food, but Domingo, the host, is extremely welcoming and friendly and was soon cooking spaghetti, hauling out sauce, making us tea.... what a wonderful start to our trek! The next morning there is no food for about 10 km - while there is a sign advertising food only 1 km away, that bar was closed when we went by.
Day 2 - Bodenaya - 24.5 km - Albergue de Peregrines. The renowned Alex has left, but David has taken his place, and is also a warm and welcoming host. A community meal is included in the price, and was wonderful salad and lentil soup. The beds are somewhat crowded, but all clean and comfortable. Definitely a highlight. Light breakfast included as well.
Day 3 - Campiella Casa Hermila - 24.5 km. Here you have the option of Albergue, breakfast, and finner for 23 E, or a private room with private bathroom for 70 E. Since we were 4 people, we paid the little extra and took 2 private rooms. Dinner was wonderful, way more than we could eat, and served communally. Breakfast was not until 7:30 - most of us were long gone by then so just skipped it. there is a grocery store however where you can stock up for the day.
Day 4 - Berducedo - 27 km. We were blessed with good weather, so did the Hospitales route. I can see why it is not advised in bad weather - even with clear skies it was very windy and blustery. But what views! This is a very hard day, and Berducedo has limited beds. I would strongly advise reserving at the private albergue - we arrived around 2 pm and got some of the last beds. There is a bus that will take you from here to the next town, and then come back in the morning. However, if you choose to walk to the next town it's a fairly easy walk.
Day 5 - Grandas de Salime - 20 km. After a hard Day 4, we needed a short day today. However, this is also a difficult day, with lots of downhill. The municipal albergue is very nice - you can't reserve, but should get a bed if you get there at a reasonable time. There is one room with only 4 beds - being a group of 4 we hustled to get there early and were able to get this room. Great kitchen and common area.
Day 6 - Fonsagrada - 25 km - OS Chaos - a private albergue - you can reserve - some small, private rooms - very nice and clean.
Day 7 - Baleira - 24 km - we treated ourselves and stayed in the hotel.
Day 8 - Lugo - 30.5 km. This is a long day, but fairly easy walking. Many accommodation places, but a good idea to reserve. We stayed in "Hostel Alba" - right on the Camino route, just inside the old roman walls. Wonderful city to spend a day in if you want a rest day.
Day 9 - Fereirre - 27 km. - Albergue Ponte Ferreira - private, a little more expensive, but includes dinner and breakfast. Dinner was communal and was some of the best paella I had in Spain. Would highly recommend as a stopping place.
Day 10 - Boente - 26 km. There is a "albergue Boente" here - we booked ahead as there are now many, many people on the trail as you have merged with the Frances.
Day 11 - Pedrouza - 25 km - stayed in non descript place - there are many places available, and likely not an issue finding a bed.
Day 12 - Santiago - 20 km - arrived in plenty of time for the noon mass.
Thank you for your nice comment about our albergue!
