Just back from the Torres — 2022

[peregrina2000]

I did not do a live thread, though I do have a FindPenguins account that I posted to every day. I find that when I’m walking, one post a day on one website a day is sufficient. Since my family and non-camino friends don’t read the forum, I opted for FindPenguins.

Camino 2022 , Torres and Geira | FindPenguins

About 640 km, starting in Salamanca, heading over to Portugal, and north from Braga to Santiago. I am combining two different caminos, the Camino de Torres and the Caminho da Geira e dos Arrieiros.

findpenguins.com

I know there has been a lot of discussion about whether the route is well marked or not. I have to say that it was a total non-issue for me, and I can’t even clearly remember much about whether the marking was good or bad. That’s because I had the wikiloc tracks offline on my phone. My phone was tucked away in my waist pack. I never looked at it until it beeped at me and told me I was going off-route. When I got to an unmarked intersection, I would use my intuition (frequently wrong), but if I made the wrong decision, I would hear about it in less than 100 m. I also got in the habit of having multiple tracks downloaded offline in case there was any real confusion. Flipping back and forth from one to the other is painless on wikiloc, and it was helpful to see the differences, because sometimes routes had changed (as was the case going into Lamego).

I really loved this camino. Up till about Sernacelhe, I would say it is the most off-road camino I have ever walked. Or at least tied with the Madrid. From Sernacelhe, there is a lot more road walking, and one particularly unpleasant section into Amarante. Plastered against the railing hoping the traffic on the national highway would pay attention to me.

But the albergue situation is grim, you have to be prepared to stay in private places. I was alone in the albergues in Spain, all of which are nice and run by lovely people. Then once you get to Portugal, none. I’m actually fine with that, luckily I can afford it.

I was a bit apprehensive about whether a hamstring injury was completely healed, but it turns out I was lucky and had not one problem (my only issue came when I was sitting on the 9 hour flight home and I could feel the pain coming back!).

I know there are a few out there with this on their camino list, so I am happy to answer any questions or give opinions. In Braga, instead of continuing on to Ponte de Lima and the Central Portugués, I went on the Geira and will post another thread to keep the discussions separate. But I never saw another pilgrim till I arrived in Santiago. So you have to love these solitary walks. For me, it was just what the doctor ordered for clearing the brain of all the dusty cobwebs.

Edited to add — here is a link to my 2022 thread on the Geira. Many people combine them, but since they are separate routes, better to keep the threads in their own sub-forum.

 

[JabbaPapa]

In Spain this year, before the Portuguese border, I found that I needed to do quite a bit of zig-zag between the Torres and the Camino de San Francisco de Asis in order to combine shorter stages with Albergue possibilities and places to sleep outdoors or within civilisation between them.

Like you, I found it very solitary, and the countryside there is peaceful and beautiful.

 

[peregrina2000]

For @gracethepilgrim and any others who may be starting out on the Torres, here is a list of my stages and where I stayed. I did not always take the cheapest option, but I will note where there are choices. I will also update my Geira thread to put in distances and lodging for anyone who may be contemplating this awesome Camino! Phone numbers and location of albergue keys may have changed, so any doubts should be resolved with Luis at the official Torres website. I relied heavily on Nick and Wendy, Pelerine, and Maggie (trepedatious traveller), so there might not be a whole lot of new info here, but it’s fun to re-live the walk.

Day 1 - La Rad (17 km) - Coming off an injury, I decided to take it slow and break up the typical first day 32 km stage. There is a highway hotel here, but nothing else. Salamanca was in fiestas when I was there, so I called a cab and went back to spend a very fun-filled afternoon and evening (complete with fireworks) in Salamanca. The non-purists may turn up their noses, but oh well. The “straight shot” Salamanca - Robliza stage (without a detour to the highway hotel) is 32, but my breaking it up added a few more over the two days.

Day 2 - Robliza de Cobijos (21) Albergue, Key at Calle Calzada 1. (Can call ayuntamiento 10-12 on Tues and Thurs, 923 38 20 06

Day 3 - San Muñoz (20) Albergue. Inquire about keys at Bar Chan. In 2022 a Ukranian family was living there. But the mayor insisted I stay there, in a room that is reserved for pilgrims. The whole experience was pretty amazing, to see how the town was welcoming this family (with a young boy of about 6).

Day 4 - Alba de Yeltes (28). Albergue. Aurora on WhatsApp. 618 28 95 44. She is the widow of the peregrino after whom the albergue is named. Very touching story, another afternoon of unexpected and very personal interactions. Decent restaurant.

Day 5 - Ciudad Rodrigo (26). Lots of options here. I stayed in Palacio Antigua Audiencia.

Day 6 - Fuerte Concepción (33). There was a Eurostars hotel right inside the historic fort, but I believe it has closed. It was a five-star experience at a 3-star price! Option now would be the albergue about 1.5 km before Fuerte Concepción. Rosi hospitalera WhatsApp 628 54 99 12

Day 7 - Pinhel (32 km). Don’t stay in Skylab as per others. I stayed in a new place, Casa da Praça, a beautiful little rehabbed house turned B and B, on the main square. Website here. Some may want to stay in Almeida, whose historic core is inside a star fort, but it’s only 10 km from Fuerte Concepción and I had already spent two days here on another trip. It is well worth a visit!

Day 8 - Trancoso (31 km). I stayed in Solar Sampaio e Melo, kind of a faded old lady, but in a great location. And had a great meal in Tasca do Castelo. This town has put a lot of resources into highlighting their Jewish heritage. You can find lots of ancient carvings on the walls of houses - some identifying the occupants as Jews, others, added during the Inquisition to reassure the authorities that they were not Jews. There is a center that describes the history in greater detail and celebrates the life of Isaac Cardoso, who was a physician to the Madrid royal court during the 17th century. It was fascinating and totally unexpected for me! The asphalt walking really kicks in at this point, up to now it has been trivial.

Day 9 - Sernacelhe (27 km). Casa do Castelo (+351 929 301 330). Recommended by Nick and Wendy, on whom I relied heavily from Trancoso forward. Another bunch of little surprises with a tour of the Romanesque church and museum by a very eager librarian and a walk around the castle walls.


Day 10 - Beira Valente (21 km). Albergue Eu Peregrino. The town of Momenta de Beira was in festas, so there was no lodging available, but the albergue, 1.5 km further on was GREAT. Very helpful people. They even came to take me to a place where I could buy take-out for dinner (nothing at all available in the area). WhatsApp +351938 183 650. The key was hidden on premises and it was a hysterical conversation with my very bad Portuguese and a very patient person in charge. I finally found it! (and will divulge its hiding place to anyone who is actually there and can’t understand the Portuguese instructions, but you will have to WA me!).

Day 11 - Lamego (23 km). Another just beautiful little town with lots going on and a must-climb set of stairs up to the church. Residencial Solar da Sé. +351 254 612 060.

Day 12 - Mesão Frio (29 km). Down to the Douro and Peso da Régua, and then up on the other side to Mesão Frio. A fabulous day, but a LOT of asphalt. I’ve spent a lot of time in the area, and Peso da Régua is not one of my favorite places, but many will want to stay here since it is a Douro hub, about 12 km downhill from Lamego. Several options in Mesão Frio - I stayed here.

Day 13 - Amarante (28 km). Yet another gorgeous big town that is on no one’s radar screen. Several goodo places, I chose Casa das Lerias, on the river.

Day 14 - Felgueiras (22 km). Hotel B & B Felgueiras. Modern, not fancy, convenient. You could walk from Amarante to Guimarães in one long 38 km day, but I am SO glad that I stopped here and took an afternoon visit (cab out the 5 km, walk back) to the Mosteiro de Pombeiro. It was one of the highlights of my walk when the heavily tattooed and kind of taciturn guard had a personality change when he took me behind the scenes of the organ and then sat down and played. It was really an amazing (yes, I know I use that word a lot) experience. You will absolutely love the chance to see the monastery and to hear him play, so do not miss it!

Day 15 - Guimarães (19 km). So much to see here, so many lodging options, so many tourists! Even in late September. I LOVE this place, had a great meal, enjoyed touring the castle, cathedral, and the palace, going to the museum.

Day 20 - Braga (20 km). Another great place for an afternoon visit, so a short day is a good idea. I have spent about 4-5 days in Braga over the years, so I just picked a few highlights and enjoyed a delicious meal. Lots of hotels, I kind of splurged.

Here ends my Camino de Torres. The official website takes you on to Ponte de Lima where you connect with the Caminho Português. If you are starved for company, you will probably want to take that option, because the Geira is another totally solitary caminho. But another fantastic walk! I will soon post my stages and places I stayed on that thread.

I have to say as I re-read my notes and remembered my stages — this is a 5 star camino if you like historical places and architecture and revel in walking alone. That fits me to a T, but I know that it is not everyone’s cup of tea. Almost all of my stages landed me in very interesting spots and I thoroughly enjoyed myself. And the other real highlight of the Torres was the frequent interactions I had with people living along the route. I can stumble through a Portuguese conversation, and I had so many great chats with just normal people living their lives on the route. It was exceptional in that regard.

 

[jungleboy]

Day 11 - Lamego (23 km). Another just beautiful little town with lots going on and a must-climb set of stairs up to the church.

Love Lamego!

Day 12 - Mesão Frio (29 km). Down to the Douro and Peso da Régua, and then up on the other side to Mesão Frio. A fabulous day, but a LOT of asphalt.

If you have good weather, this stage through the vineyards of the Douro Valley is simply incredible. It might be my favourite stage on any camino.

But the asphalt on the second half of the Torres was very tough on Wendy’s PF.

I have to say as I re-read my notes and remembered my stages — this is a 5 star camino if you like historical places and architecture and revel in walking alone. That fits me to a T, but I know that it is not everyone’s cup of tea.

We might have to do it all the way from Salamanca one of these years!

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Just brilliant Laurie. I’ll add all of your detail to my ever-growing list of Torres goodies