Just arrived back home from Portuguese. I miss the natas!

Anamya · May 10, 2017

Hey all! First of all, thanks everyone for the invaluable content you guys post here everyday.

I just arrived back home after walking my second Camino - the Camino Portugues from Porto. And for god's sake, it was SO different from the Frances! I won't make a detailed description of each day, but there are some points I'd love to highlight:

- The walk out of Porto, from the Se Cathedral, was probably the most confusing part of the trail... I ended up opting for the train to avoid the industrial area. But I highly recommend staying in the city for a few days - it is gorgeous, the food is amazing. One "nata" per day keeps anyone smiling (or two, or three...)!

- I spent one night in Casa da Fernanda. What she does is unbelievable. If you stay there, PLEASE, be respectful and leave a nice donativo. I heard from Jacinto the stories of people that break things or don't care about their house or their dogs... I couldn't believe how anyone could behave badly in such a loving and friendly place.

- My husband and I ended up in two Easter processions along the way. It was quite an experience. The chanting and kissing the cross rituals were not something I would normally do, but if that's how people there celebrate it, I decided to do like the locals. I may not be catholic, but good vibes surely can't be bad

- All the "bacalhau" (codfish) in every restaurant along the Portuguese trail. Yummm... and the natas for dessert!

- The walk up towards Alto da portela, before Rubiães. That was much worse than Cebreiro, IMHO. But the view up there and the flavour of my bread with salami after that walk were priceless!

- The dude who took care of the Tui cathedral and said was closed to prepare for mass, but allowed us in to visit anyway. He kept an eye on the priest's door signalling to us the right time to run away!

- The farmer who gave us mandarins in exchange for a prayer at Santiago. We kept that promise and hope he is well!

- The lovely church of the Virxe Peregrina in Pontevedra, and the mix of medieval and modern in that city. They even had escape rooms, which are a hobby I love at home!

- Finding a german yellow guide book near a fountain, deciding to carry it and finding the owners in a bar 6km ahead. Their smile was priceless as well!

- Losing my sunglasses and bumping into a man walking with his dog carrying them half an hour later.

- Having loving conversations (and some heated arguments) with my husband, alternated by moments of total silence and contemplation.

- Not having ANY blister. Camino-broken shoes were perfect! (I used the same pair I used in my first camino... now that pair is officially retired)

- The day we arrived in Santiago was the only rainy day we got. But to walk towards the cathedral among a lot of bicigrinos, yell "We did it!" and hear the clapping of all of us echoing along the street was phenomenal!

- Burst in laughs to see... that you could NOT SEE the cathedral because there are scaffolds all over the front! We went to the new Pilgrim`s office and returned to see our old saintly friend later. He was there for us, as the last time. And as every day of our lives, as the camino has never left us.

Thanks for reading :*

katie@camino · May 10, 2017

Love this! Your positive energy bursts from the page.

I think i may walk the Camino Portugues (probably coastal and spiritual variante). Do you have recommendations / tips / must-stay albergues you would like to pass on? Id love to hear more about it

volleyjanice · May 10, 2017

Thank you for this post! As Katie says, your enthusiasm (and humour) shine through. My husband and I had intended to walk at least a portion of the Camino Poruguese this year. Sadly my Dad's health began to decline and he passed away 6 weeks ago. We are also dealing with my Mom's dementia, and the possibility of a serious illness in my nephew. After thinking that 2016 was challenging for very similar reasons, it would seem that 2017 isn't looking much better. My reason for sharing all of this is just to say that our Camino exeriences have impacted our outlook on life, and these challenges reinforce our need to go back again, as do the positive stories that I read on this forum.

timr · May 10, 2017

What a heartwarming account! Thanks.

RodlaRob · May 11, 2017

Thanks Anamya for your post. Having only done one of these Caminos and if you have the time I would like to hear your views as why they are SO different.

Anamya · May 11, 2017

katie@camino said:
Love this! Your positive energy bursts from the page.

I think i may walk the Camino Portugues (probably coastal and spiritual variante). Do you have recommendations / tips / must-stay albergues you would like to pass on? Id love to hear more about it

I believe Casa da Fernanda is a unanimity in this forum, and I join the chorus.
A Casa da Herba em Redondela was good too. In Padrón, we did not sleep at Albergue Corredeiras, but we stopped there and the place was beeeautiful, so clean and organized! They had lockers with power plugs inside and curtains on each bed.

We kept walking to avoid a long uphill under rain on our last day, so we stayed at a place called Pension HK, on the other side of the highway, in Escravitude. It was 35 euros for a lovely double room with a bath (yeaaahhhh!!!), so for 2 people it was 17,50 each. The manager Victoria was the loveliest and a great cook (the ternera steak was awesome!). She even bought a pay-per-view game for us and other customers of the restaurant for the Real Madrid and Barcelona game on that night. Btw, she and other staff support Real Madrid

Maybe it's just me (and I noticed re-reading my previous post): I have fond memories of the places where we slept, but where we ATE the memories are actually brighter! Because that was one of the main differences I noticed between this Camino and the Frances - there are less options of places to stop or eat. In the Frances they are everywhere! So there were days that we would be really tired and hungry, and reaching a restaurant that made good Caldo Verde was just amazing.

Anamya · May 11, 2017

RodlaRob said:
Having only done one of these Caminos and if you have the time I would like to hear your views as why they are SO different.

So, this is just from my personal point of view and many people may disagree:

Along the Frances, we met a lot of people every day. There were some quiet moments, but in the Portuguese we had quiet DAYS. We would see some pilgrims in the morning, starting to walk, or around 5pm, arriving at the albergues/pensions (yeah, I'm a slow walker). You would cross path with always the same 2 or 3 people. In the Frances, everyday was a different group, 10, 20, 30 people.

In the Portugues, we actually had to "study" some days - where to stop to eat, possibilities of places to sleep, due to the smaller amount of infrastructure. The Portuguese is not bare or worrying at all, but in the Frances, you just keep walking and bars/albergues pop up.

The food. FOOD FOOD FOOD. It is extremely good in Spain. It is HEAVENLY in Portugal. And comes is large portions.

It was much easier to communicate in English in Portugal than in Spain. Even though I speak both Portuguese and Castellano, in Portugal everyone replied to me in English. In Spain, I used foreign language skills much more.

It was also intresting to see more people walking "the other way". We met some +- 6 pilgrimgs walking to Fatima (which may have been influenced by the Pope's visit). In the Frances, only one dude walking towards France.

The trail actually felt harder in the Portugues. A lot of stone-paved streets (even within woods!) and asphalt finished destroying my loyal Mizunos. The heel cushion was completely flat when we reached Santiago. In the Frances, there were more natural earth paths. The water fountains are also not so well marked in the beggining, so sometimes you feel a bit in doubt is water is potable or not. After Mos, the water signs became much better. In the Frances, there were sooooo many fountains.

You also walk North all the time, so I ended up the Camino with my right cheek full of freckles and my right arm a bit burned (even with sunscreen) because of all the morning walk. In the Frances, we had the sun on our back most of the time and it was much easier on the skin and the eyes.

In a nutshell, I thought the Camino Portugues was harder. The previous experience in the Frances allowed me to go with a very light pack and no dead weights at all, which was great. But the Portugues was also amazing and I'm happy we did that, because the Camino was really calling us back.

Anamya · May 11, 2017

volleyjanice said:
After thinking that 2016 was challenging for very similar reasons, it would seem that 2017 isn't looking much better. My reason for sharing all of this is just to say that our Camino exeriences have impacted our outlook on life, and these challenges reinforce our need to go back again, as do the positive stories that I read on this forum.

I sincerely wish a lot of light and strength for you and your family, Janice. I'm sure you will find the right moment to go and Santiago will be there, open arms to welcome an even stronger version of you

timr · May 11, 2017

Anamya said:
So, this is just from my personal point of view and many people may disagree:

Along the Frances, we met a lot of people every day. There were some quiet moments, but in the Portuguese we had quiet DAYS. We would see some pilgrims in the morning, starting to walk, or around 5pm, arriving at the albergues/pensions (yeah, I'm a slow walker). You would cross path with always the same 2 or 3 people. In the Frances, everyday was a different group, 10, 20, 30 people.

In the Portugues, we actually had to "study" some days - where to stop to eat, possibilities of places to sleep, due to the smaller amount of infrastructure. The Portuguese is not bare or worrying at all, but in the Frances, you just keep walking and bars/albergues pop up.

The food. FOOD FOOD FOOD. It is extremely good in Spain. It is HEAVENLY in Portugal. And comes is large portions.

It was much easier to communicate in English in Portugal than in Spain. Even though I speak both Portuguese and Castellano, in Portugal everyone replied to me in English. In Spain, I used foreign language skills much more.

It was also intresting to see more people walking "the other way". We met some +- 6 pilgrimgs walking to Fatima (which may have been influenced by the Pope's visit). In the Frances, only one dude walking towards France.

The trail actually felt harder in the Portugues. A lot of stone-paved streets (even within woods!) and asphalt finished destroying my loyal Mizunos. The heel cushion was completely flat when we reached Santiago. In the Frances, there were more natural earth paths. The water fountains are also not so well marked in the beggining, so sometimes you feel a bit in doubt is water is potable or not. After Mos, the water signs became much better. In the Frances, there were sooooo many fountains.

You also walk North all the time, so I ended up the Camino with my right cheek full of freckles and my right arm a bit burned (even with sunscreen) because of all the morning walk. In the Frances, we had the sun on our back most of the time and it was much easier on the skin and the eyes.

In a nutshell, I thought the Camino Portugues was harder. The previous experience in the Frances allowed me to go with a very light pack and no dead weights at all, which was great. But the Portugues was also amazing and I'm happy we did that, because the Camino was really calling us back.

That's a really insightful assessment of CP versus CF. Brings back happy memories of my time last November. The only thing I slightly differ on is that I didn't find it harder overall than CF. That's a personal thing. I am always (genuinely) interested when people say stone and cobbles are hard. I never notice that and wonder is it because in between Caminos I am a road runner. (recreational half marathons and one marathon per year). I on the other hand find trail running (though not trail walking) quite hard!
Sorry about your Mizunos Always sad to part from an old friend

Anamya · May 11, 2017

timr said:
I never notice that and wonder is it because in between Caminos I am a road runner. (recreational half marathons and one marathon per year). I on the other hand find trail running (though not trail walking) quite hard!
Sorry about your Mizunos Always sad to part from an old friend

Wow, marathons! I'm pretty useless running, however I can walk the entire day at my snail pace
I did not think much of the paved areas until I actually felt the difference at the end of some days, when my feet seemed waaaayyy more squished than on CF. Living as a kid in Brazil and as an adult in Australia, natural trail walking has always been fine

You actually reminded me of the conversation I had with an hospitalera somewhere after Porrino. I stopped at the bar, she said they were full, and I said "no problem, I only wanted the Laranja Natural (fresh orange juice) and will keep going." She joked saying "Are you feeling ok? You came very slowly to our door, almost arrived with the Tortugas (turtles)!"
To which I replied: "Oh, the Tortugas passed me long ago, but the Caracoles (snails) are great company!"

And indeed, it was sad to part with the Mizunos. They've been to five continents with me, now they rested in a beautiful place. I may buy an identical pair if I find it.

SilverAvenger · May 12, 2017

Glad you have fun over here, hehe! Greetings from Lisbon!

Well, if you miss the natas, I've got a recepie here....you might need to have it translated, though. If even after that it doesen't makes sence, PM me and I'll translate it entirely!

http://www.docesregionais.com/pasteis-de-nata/

Oppis · May 12, 2017

Arrived recently from CP - Lisbon to Santiago , the Costal option from Porto. We agree all your opinions of the fantastic country of Portugal and the lovely people there. Though, after 10 days with natas they came out of eyes and ears, but otherwise the adventure in CAKE HEAVEN - pastellerias in every corner, impossible to pass, gave me 5 kilos more weight, even having walked averidge 20km each day. Not to forget the heavenly food, too.

volleyjanice · May 15, 2017

Anamya said:
I sincerely wish a lot of light and strength for you and your family, Janice. I'm sure you will find the right moment to go and Santiago will be there, open arms to welcome an even stronger version of you

Thank you Anamya, I'm sure that you are right. I appreciate your kind thoughts.

Anamya · May 16, 2017

SilverAvenger said:
Glad you have fun over here, hehe! Greetings from Lisbon! Well, if you miss the natas, I've got a recepie here....you might need to have it translated, though. If even after that it doesen't makes sence, PM me and I'll translate it entirely!
http://www.docesregionais.com/pasteis-de-nata/

No need for translations, I lived in Brazil for many years and understand the recipe without any problems. Guess 'm going straight to the supermarket once I finish work today! Thank you soooooooo muuuuuchh! I have to go back and visit Lisbon, the country is just too god to not be well explored!

Kimmo Olari said:
pastellerias in every corner, impossible to pass, gave me 5 kilos more weight, even having walked averidge 20km each day. Not to forget the heavenly food, too.

Hahahaha, yeah, I did not gain weight, but did not lose any either! And we were doing 20km+ every day too!
But trip calories do not count, they are just happiness involving your body!

What did you think of the Lisbon-Porto trail, was it good? I may have to visit Portugal again to go to that area!

Oppis · May 16, 2017

We liked it more than we expected. Flat until Golega, the 1'st week, easy to walk on well walkable surfaces. After Golega getting more undulating paths, but no difficoulties at all. Beautiful weather and the time of the year made it even more pleasant. A lot of amazing cities, like Tomar and Coimbra - worth of rest day like we had. Not so many busy mainroads we had been frigtened. I agree the silent country roads are asphalt surface or cobblestones, but did not bother us. Les albergues, but other accomondations are well available and not expensive.
Do not hesitate. Camino is always camino.

SilverAvenger · May 16, 2017

Anamya said:
No need for translations, I lived in Brazil for many years and understand the recipe without any problems. Guess 'm going straight to the supermarket once I finish work today! Thank you soooooooo muuuuuchh! I have to go back and visit Lisbon, the country is just too god to not be well explored!

Hehe! Great to hear! Let me know how they turned out!
I've you're ever in the "neighborhood" let me know! Free tour and probably free bed too

Pilgrim9 · Mar 27, 2018

Anamya said:
So, this is just from my personal point of view and many people may disagree:

Along the Frances, we met a lot of people every day. There were some quiet moments, but in the Portuguese we had quiet DAYS. We would see some pilgrims in the morning, starting to walk, or around 5pm, arriving at the albergues/pensions (yeah, I'm a slow walker). You would cross path with always the same 2 or 3 people. In the Frances, everyday was a different group, 10, 20, 30 people.

In the Portugues, we actually had to "study" some days - where to stop to eat, possibilities of places to sleep, due to the smaller amount of infrastructure. The Portuguese is not bare or worrying at all, but in the Frances, you just keep walking and bars/albergues pop up.

The food. FOOD FOOD FOOD. It is extremely good in Spain. It is HEAVENLY in Portugal. And comes is large portions.

It was much easier to communicate in English in Portugal than in Spain. Even though I speak both Portuguese and Castellano, in Portugal everyone replied to me in English. In Spain, I used foreign language skills much more.

It was also intresting to see more people walking "the other way". We met some +- 6 pilgrimgs walking to Fatima (which may have been influenced by the Pope's visit). In the Frances, only one dude walking towards France.

The trail actually felt harder in the Portugues. A lot of stone-paved streets (even within woods!) and asphalt finished destroying my loyal Mizunos. The heel cushion was completely flat when we reached Santiago. In the Frances, there were more natural earth paths. The water fountains are also not so well marked in the beggining, so sometimes you feel a bit in doubt is water is potable or not. After Mos, the water signs became much better. In the Frances, there were sooooo many fountains.

You also walk North all the time, so I ended up the Camino with my right cheek full of freckles and my right arm a bit burned (even with sunscreen) because of all the morning walk. In the Frances, we had the sun on our back most of the time and it was much easier on the skin and the eyes.

In a nutshell, I thought the Camino Portugues was harder. The previous experience in the Frances allowed me to go with a very light pack and no dead weights at all, which was great. But the Portugues was also amazing and I'm happy we did that, because the Camino was really calling us back.

Thank you for these very helpful reports and comments, Anamya. They will help me prepare for my proposed CP walk this year.

Tchau!

Anamya · Mar 27, 2018

Pilgrim9 said:
They will help me prepare for my proposed CP walk this year.

It is a fabulous walk, Pilgrim! I would highly recommend it

If Mr. José the shepperd and orange farmer is still at the hill before Alto da Portela when you pass by, let him know I made the prayer he asked for when I arrived at the cathedral! Hope his surgery went well!

Just arrived back home from Portuguese. I miss the natas!

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