John Saxon
Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Invierno 2023
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There were two days when we had very large groups staying downstairs. The first week we were full or almost full most of the time. Last week half to 3/4 full most of the time. Two of my fellow hospitaleros/hospitaleras are also walking the Invierno ((staying at Las Medulas tonight and sent incredible photos).Do visit Las Médulas, they are incredible!
I'll be in Ponferrada in 3 days (doing the Olvidado then the Invierno).
It must have been busy in San Nicolas de Flüe. I've volunteered there twice, once during Semana Santa and once in January.
So glad to have another Invierno thread to follow. @John Saxon, I hope you will consider putting all of your Invierno posts in this thread (we can change the title of the thread from “Day 1” to something like “My Invierno, June 2023” or whatever you want). It is so much more helpful to forum members and easier to follow you if you have one continuous string that puts it all in order. AND, having one single thread will be be a huge help to those who look back at live threads as they plan their upcoming Invierno. (For an example, look at the recent live threads — Lana, Viejo, Olvidado, Salvador, etc — and buen camino!).There were two downs when we had very large groups staying downstairs. The first week we were full or almost full most of the time. Last week half to 3/4 full most of the time. Two of my fellow hospitaleros/hospitaleras are also walking the Invierno ((staying at Las Medulas tonight and sent incredible photos).
I finished that route (after starting on the Aragonese) a few days ago. I’m going to write something here about it once I’m reunited with my laptop. Buen Camino. That route is tough! I also used Manuel’s pack transport service (after not using any like that from Somport to Ponferrada!) because of the need to bring all your water and food on multiple stages of that route. A big tip: if Gronze or other places indicate that there’s a bar or something in a town, it might be only one, and it will close if they’re not getting many customers that day. So never count on it unless it’s a larger town with several. And nothing opens in O Barco or A Rúa until 10. I sure don’t envy you doing it in this heat!Just started today (July 1) walking solo after volunteering as an hospitalero in the San Nicolas Albergue in Ponferrada. Using the bag transport service with Manuel at Casa Mar. For the first pick up, Manuel met me at Café Rabel. The bar on the plaza at Toral de Merayo was open when I walked by at 9 am on a Saturday but I didn’t stop. Saw only four pilgrims on my first day. Arrived in Borrenes at 2:45 pm after stops in Villavieja for sandwich that I packed and visit to Castilo de Cornatel (just over seven hours total). Temperature was 34 Celsius when I arrived. The castle is open Wednesdays through Sundays between 11 an and 2 pm, and then from 4 to 8 free for pilgrims. Didn’t enjoy the asphalt road from the castle down to Borrenes. Looking forward to the journey. Will get an earlier start tomorrow to avoid the heat and allow some time to visit the galleries at Las Medulas.
Thanks for the tip on bars. Heat hasn’t been horrible so far (2 days).I finished that route (after starting on the Aragonese) a few days ago. I’m going to write something here about it once I’m reunited with my laptop. Buen Camino. That route is tough! I also used Manuel’s pack transport service (after not using any like that from Somport to Ponferrada!) because of the need to bring all your water and food on multiple stages of that route. A big tip: if Gronze or other places indicate that there’s a bar or something in a town, it might be only one, and it will close if they’re not getting many customers that day. So never count on it unless it’s a larger town with several. And nothing opens in O Barco or A Rúa until 10. I sure don’t envy you doing it in this heat!
Pension Pacita is great.Blimey! All these peregrinos! I went days on end without seeing a soul. It's a great route. Wonderful scenery. Do try and stay with Pension Pacita if you can, after Ortega. Heat hasn't been too bad.
Carole!!! Not to derail, but omg, it’s been a long time. I remember (I think) that the last time I saw you we had lunch with the organist at the cathedral in Santiago who was then under suspicion as one of the few with easy access to the Codex. That was many years ago.This is wonderful @John Saxon... thanks for sharing. I'll be following along as I'm redoing the Invierno with 3 friends in Sept. Have noted your recommendation for Casa Rosa in Domingo Florez.
Buen camino.
It's closed although not mentioned in Gronze. I had WhatsApp contact with them about a week ago and they said that it has been closed since October 2022!Hi John, Are you staying in the big municipal albergue in Quiroga? I have fond memories of it and of the town.
Buen camino from Oz.
Hi John, Are you staying in the big municipal albergue in Quiroga? I have fond memories of it and of the town. Buen camino from Oz.
Hi John, Are you staying in the big municipal albergue in Quiroga? I have fond memories of it and of the town. Buen camino from Oz.
I'll be two days behind you. Now in Ponferrada after walking the Olvidado and will take the bus to A Rúa this afternoon (already walked Ponferrada - A Rúa). The albergue was busy yesterday. It was my first time in 18 days that I slept in the same room as other pilgrims and I slept better than in days! Go figure. I chatted for quite some time with the Dutch hospi. Look forward to hearing about your Camino. I too will be walking A Rúa - Quiroga.
AsHi John, Are you staying in the big municipal albergue in Quiroga? I have fond memories of it and of the town. Buen camino from Oz.
you see from another post, the albergue is closed. Another pilgrim and I stayed at Hostal Quiper. There is some construction going on with noise and dust but the workers quit at 3 pm so not a real problem. Disappointed that Restaurante Aruza was open but kitchen not serving meals last night.Hi John, Are you staying in the big municipal albergue in Quiroga? I have fond memories of it and of the town.
Buen camino from Oz.
I’m in WhatsApp contact with a camino friend currently walking the Invierno, and he stayed in the Quiroga Albergue on Monday. I’ve asked him about it, and hopefully he will post something.It's closed although not mentioned in Gronze. I had WhatsApp contact with them about a week ago and they said that it has been closed since October 2022!
Glad you enjoyed staying at San Nicolas. I got a chance to chat with Hans briefly during the transition. I worked with a great team of hospitaleros and hospitaleras and we got LOTS of compliments and appreciation for the welcoming environment.I'll be two days behind you. Now in Ponferrada after walking the Olvidado and will take the bus to A Rúa this afternoon (already walked Ponferrada - A Rúa).
The albergue was busy yesterday. It was my first time in 18 days that I slept in the same room as other pilgrims and I slept better than in days! Go figure. I chatted for quite some time with the Dutch hospi.
Look forward to hearing about your Camino. I too will be walking A Rúa - Quiroga.
Ok then we might meet up down the line.Glad you enjoyed staying at San Nicolas. I got a chance to chat with Hans briefly during the transition. I worked with a great team of hospitaleros and hospitaleras and we got LOTS of compliments and appreciation for the welcoming environment.
Even though you say you’re two days behind me you may catch me because I’m taking it slow. In Salcedo tonight (Wednesday). Torre Vilarino on Thursday, then Vilaseco, Rodeiro, Lalin, Bandeira, Reina Lupa, and arrive early to Santiago on July 12.
How bizarre! The person who answered me was actually rude when I mentioned that it would be a good idea to contact Gronze. The response was "no es cosa mía". When hearing that I made a reservation at Hostal Quiper. Let me know.I’m in WhatsApp contact with a camino friend currently walking the Invierno, and he stayed in the Quiroga Albergue on Monday. I’ve asked him about it, and hopefully he will post something.
I think that might have been an excellent decision. Read about @laineylainey’s adventure in this thread.Barca so Lor to Salcedo using a Wikiloc trail I’d found but changed my mind and walk to Castroncelos
Good luck. Didn’t explore road option. It was the ascent that wore me out. My knees were glad when I reached the river bridge. Most of it was quite uneven and rocky so I took my time, used my sticks, and watched my footing.Hi John,
Congratulations on conquering the descent and ascent! I'm in Monforte de Lemos and am planning on doing it tomorrow but my right knee is still not 100% after the 800 meter rocky descent on the Olvidado. Today was good from Quiroga but the ascents and descents were very gradual. I don't want to push my luck.
I hear it is beautiful but that there is a way along the highway (several km more). I'm not keen on that but it may be a better solution. I'll have to sleep on it.
I loved Torre Vilariño! If you can, get yourself to that ecomuseum that’s right near there. Really worthwhile. All about the history and culture of the region, and there’s a castro site on the grounds and a beautiful view, too.Day 6 (part 1). Salcedo to Vilarino. 36.7 km. Just under 8 hours. Elevation gain 581 meters.
Great walking weather. Left early with mist obscuring hills and mountains and cloudy skies until afternoon.
Bar Avenida in A Pobra was open when I passed through at 7:45. The woman there told me the work on the new albergue STILL isn’t finished and she doesn’t know when it will be. She also said that as many as 25 or 20 pilgrims pass by per day depending on weather, etc. But I didn’t see any pilgrims on the way today and only six in six days. Maybe they hide behind trees when they hear me coming?
Grateful for stretches of shade from oak trees on ascent to Pineiro and Vilarino. Torre Vilarino was hopping with locals when I arrived. So far it looks like it’s going to be a great place to stay.
Update: Great dinner!!! I give Torre Vilarino two thumbs up.
So sorry I missed it. Walked right by it when I did the loop hike and looking back the museum would have been a better choice.I loved Torre Vilariño! If you can, get yourself to that ecomuseum that’s right near there. Really worthwhile. All about the history and culture of the region, and there’s a castro site on the grounds and a beautiful view, too.
Next time!So sorry I missed it. Walked right by it when I did the loop hike and looking back the museum would have been a better choice.
I was a complete failure at locating Panaderia Jesus yesterday and this morning. I went to the address and location shown on map and app and saw at least two bakery trucks parked nearby but no signage or sign that I could see. Hope you have better luck and that it’s open early.Saw a picture of the wax sello from Lalín, it looks quite special
I am told that Panadería Jesús in Rodeiro is open early. I'll see tomorrow morning. No luck today. Bar in Penasillas was closed. I even left Chantada late (7.30) so as to arrive by 9.00 but it was all boarded up. O Tecanto on the other hand was open.
Where to tomorrow?
I have to leave VERY early Thursday for flight back to US and plans to meet two hospitaleros from Ponferrada and American hospitaleras who serves at the Anglican welcome center. BUT if you’ll let me know when and where I’ll try my best. And you’re welcome to stop by Reina Lupa tomorrow to say a quick hello on your way into town.I found Panadería Jesús with help from a neighbor and Ana opened up for me this morning at 6.30. If you want to see the pictures from the inside I posted on my own thread:
Post in thread 'On my way tomorrow, part 2' https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/on-my-way-tomorrow-part-2.81705/post-1158868
Since I'm arriving in Santiago tomorrow afternoon (tonight alone in Albergue Trabazo in Silleda) and will be there through Thursday, I thought that I would make a new thread for a Forum meet-up in Santiago. Time and place to be determined. If you would like to join up on Wednesday or Thursday let me know.
Enjoy your last two days on the Camino!
It’s 12:20 pm on Tuesday. Just arrived at the bar next to Reina Lupa (after detour to Pico Sacro). Just 100 meters off Camino. Do stop by if you can.Had to look up Reina Lupa. Depending on timing may stop by or otherwise maybe on Wednesday in Santiago although your schedule does sounds tight.
Yeah. That was no fun.Didn’t enjoy the asphalt road from the castle down to Borrenes.
Absolutely!Pension Pacita is great.
Amazing. That's many more than I saw in 11 days. And now gianormous school groups?! Don't tell @Bad Pilgrim.She also said that as many as 25 or 20 pilgrims pass by per day depending on weather, etc.
Oh! Going to check your photos now, @LTfit ..I found Panadería Jesús with help from a neighbor and Ana opened up for me this morning at 6.30
Yay!Met up with @LTfit at Reina Lupa.
Would love to hear more. I take it you went up before going on to Reina Lupa. Is there an obvious turn-off, or did you have to plot a detour? What’s it like up there? It would be nice if there were some sort of information about the Reina Lupa legend and how Pico Sacro is a part of it.Couldn’t see spires in Santiago from Pico Sacro but still glad to have made the climb.
went up in 2019 but it was first light so I wanted to try again. Directions in Brierlys Sanabres guide. About 100 meter past the Outeiro albergue take the road to the right. At T intersection turn left. At next T intersection turn left. Then right on signed access road. To return to the route go back down access road, turn right and continue until rejoin route. Adds about 2 km to the route and maybe a couple of hundred meters elevation gain.Would love to hear more. I take it you went up before going on to Reina Lupa. Is there an obvious turn-off, or did you have to plot a detour? What’s it like up there? It would be nice if there were some sort of information about the Reina Lupa legend and how Pico Sacro is a part of it.
Oh that’s so helpful, it seems much more direct than anything I had read about before. I even found wikiloc tracks that seem to mirror your instructions.About 100 meter past the Outeiro albergue take the road to the right. At T intersection turn left. At next T intersection turn left. Then right on signed access road. To return to the route go back down access road, turn right and continue until rejoin route. Adds about 2 km to the route and maybe a couple of hundred meters elevation gain.
I'm already in the Cathedral for the 12:00 mass. I've always had to stand so decided to come early. I guess you've arrived. At 9.30 I wandered down to the Plaza de Obradoiro to see if you were around but no luck.I’ll be on the lookout for you tomorrow.
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