Is this the right Camino for me? - Planning September 2024

[abossy]

Hi - was hoping to get the opinion of some people experienced with this route. My original plan was for the original 900km Camino, however this was 10 years ago when I was in better health and fitness. Since then 'life' has happened, knee injuries, bad hips, some arthritis. Also lack of available holidays to commit to such a journey.

I was dismayed until I discovered the Camino Primitivo route. It seems much more reasonable for me - I would only need to take off around 3 weeks it seems, and I have a window open mid September this year. I currently do around 3-4 10km walks each week, often up steep hills so I'm not too concerned about my fitness. However obviously I realise I will need to walk much longer each day.

Just wanted the experts opinion, is 2 months enough time to prepare for this? Mid September a decent time to start? Can anyone offer any advice for this route? I understand it looks a tad more challenging in terms of terrain. It's been a dream of mine to do the Camino since 2012, so I'm hoping I can at least do the short version in my lifetime I'm 42.

Any advice welcome - feel free to be honest.

 

[MinaKamina]

Hello and welcome here. There is no original Camino and no obligation at all to start in St. Jean, so do not worry about the 900 kms.
If you are unsure about the distance that you can walk, the Camino Francés has the best infrastructure with albergues and places to eat and drink, and you can choose your starting point along the CF depending on the distance that you feel happy with.

Good luck and Buen Camino!

 

[trecile]

My original plan was for the original 900km Camino,

Do you mean the Camino Francés? It's about 800 km from St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago, but there's no requirement to start at St Jean - it's just an arbitrary starting point used by guide books and websites. You can start anywhere along the Camino that fits your time frame.

That's said, the Camino Primitivo is a beautiful route and fits your time frame. I don't see any reason why you wouldn't be able to do it in mid September.

 

[abossy]

Thanks for the replies - what would you say is the main difference between this route and the Frances? Does it come down to difficulty? This one attracts me as well because it seems less busy (less pilgrims), but also understand the downside is probably less developed infrastructure. It's my first time doing a trek like this, so just want to set myself up for the best experience.

 

[Grousedoctor]

As you have three weeks available to you, there are a number of options. Let me throw out other possibility. Start in Porto and walk the central route of the Camino Portuguese. As part of this, include the Variante Espiritual after Pontevedra. After reaching Santiago you should have time to walk on the the End of the World in Finisterra (another four days). I suggest this route in part because it has a similar feel to the Francés, it has an excellent infrastructure, and the physical demand is just moderate. It’s a wonderful route popular with pilgrims, full of history including great towns and cities, and all of the Camino spirit one hopes to encounter while walking.

 

[trecile]

Thanks for the replies - what would you say is the main difference between this route and the Frances? Does it come down to difficulty? This one attracts me as well because it seems less busy (less pilgrims), but also understand the downside is probably less developed infrastructure

There are plenty of pilgrim accommodations on the Primitivo - you can check Gronze to see what's available.

Camino Primitivo | Gronze.com

www.gronze.com

But the Francés has the best pilgrim infrastructure (and the most pilgrims) of any of the routes.

You could also walk the Francés from León in the same time frame as the Primitivo. Or the Camino Portuguese from Porto as @Grousedoctor suggested.

 

[David Tallan]

Hi - was hoping to get the opinion of some people experienced with this route. My original plan was for the original 900km Camino, however this was 10 years ago when I was in better health and fitness. Since then 'life' has happened, knee injuries, bad hips, some arthritis. Also lack of available holidays to commit to such a journey.

I was dismayed until I discovered the Camino Primitivo route. It seems much more reasonable for me - I would only need to take off around 3 weeks it seems, and I have a window open mid September this year. I currently do around 3-4 10km walks each week, often up steep hills so I'm not too concerned about my fitness. However obviously I realise I will need to walk much longer each day.

Just wanted the experts opinion, is 2 months enough time to prepare for this? Mid September a decent time to start? Can anyone offer any advice for this route? I understand it looks a tad more challenging in terms of terrain. It's been a dream of mine to do the Camino since 2012, so I'm hoping I can at least do the short version in my lifetime I'm 42.

Any advice welcome - feel free to be honest.

If you have joint problems, I'm not sure this is the ideal Camino for you. It does go through the mountains with some pretty significant and steep descents, which can be quite challenging for the knees. It's a wonderful Camino, don't get me wrong. But I don't think I would recommend it as a first Camino, especially for someone dissuaded from the Frances by knee, hip, and arthritis issues. With the same 2-3 weeks, you might find that the Portugues Camino from Porto is a better choice. Then, when you see how you fare on that, you can consider coming back to the Primitivo for a second Camino in the future. If you're 42, you have time for lots of Caminos! (Speaking as someone who is 60 and also likes to think he has time for lots of future Caminos.)

 

[Richmond Gardner]

Thanks for the replies - what would you say is the main difference between this route and the Frances? Does it come down to difficulty? This one attracts me as well because it seems less busy (less pilgrims), but also understand the downside is probably less developed infrastructure. It's my first time doing a trek like this, so just want to set myself up for the best experience.

The Primitivo is a hilly walk through Lugo, where you have a gentle approach (and many more pilgrims) to Santiago.
As a first timer, the Portugues is less strenuous.
Both routes have plenty of infrastructure and camaraderie!

 

[dbier]

Given your current history and current training, I would *not* recommend the early Primitivo. There are a few stretches of longer than 10km without services. And I gotta tell you truthfully, until I got to O Cadavo, I walked uphill every night to get to my accommodations, and uphill again in the morning to leave every stop until Campiello. That hill was in Borres..

If this is your first, why not the Frances from Leon? The Portuguese? The Ingles from Ferrol, followed up by walking from Santiago to Finisterre and/ or Muxia?

Buen Camino

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

@abossy , welcome to the forum.
I find it interesting that some are trying to put you off walking the Primitivo, although I certainly understand their reasoning. Interestingly, @David Tallan walked the Primitivo just before me last year, and @dbier just after!

A lot of people now walk the Primitivo as their first Camino, there were several with me on trail, but it could be challenging for some. People that I saw on a daily basis ranged between eight years old to over 80 (I'm 60). You're smack in the middle.

It is definitely less traveled and more challenging than the Frances, and with far less infrastructure, however sufficient to meet our needs. It just involves a little more planning with regards to water and snacks.

Only you know how your health is at present, and whether your joints might be up to two - three weeks walking, with a pack, day after day. The first 10 days involving a lot of hills!. You're constantly going up and down.

There is an excellent thread with much shorter stages than most of us do by @Thomas1.

Thread 'Caminó Primitivo 4/2024' https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/camino-primitivo-4-2024.86290/

That will take you out to your full three week time frame, so you may need to add a couple of longer stages to make things fit if that 3 weeks includes travel time. If you were to do that I would start slow and build up after the Hospitales.

You say that you're currently walking 10km multiple times a week, with two months to train you easily have time to build that to 15 to 20 kilometers. Don't push yourself too hard and injure yourself - I did! (Remember to start training with your pack).

Should you find that does not work so well for you, you've been given some good alternative options.
Personally, whilst the Inglés is an excellent first camino ( it was mine) and very well supported, it's simply too short. However as @dbier say's you could easily walk on to Finisterre. You could even walk back to Santiago via Muxia if you didn't want to stop and still had sufficient time.

Buen Camino!

 

[WalkingPlaylist]

I walked the Primitivo last Sept and agree, it's physically challenging even for those in shape, more so than the Frances or Portuguese, or the Muxia/Finisterre routes. They are not hills, they are mountains. There are services but you really do need to plan otherwise you won't have a bed. As well, you can't just "stop" as there are large stretches of nothing. On the Frances, you can stop anywhere you want in any small town and find food and shelter, because there is so much more infrastructure. Stop on the Primitivo and you need to call a car to get somewhere/anywhere. The cadence of the Camino - you learn that after your first trip and I think a lot of people forget that. The first one is an unknown for so many things so having more options might be better, and yes you can always go back and do another Camino - we all have as you see, many times...

 

[lt56ny]

Hi - was hoping to get the opinion of some people experienced with this route. My original plan was for the original 900km Camino, however this was 10 years ago when I was in better health and fitness. Since then 'life' has happened, knee injuries, bad hips, some arthritis. Also lack of available holidays to commit to such a journey.

I was dismayed until I discovered the Camino Primitivo route. It seems much more reasonable for me - I would only need to take off around 3 weeks it seems, and I have a window open mid September this year. I currently do around 3-4 10km walks each week, often up steep hills so I'm not too concerned about my fitness. However obviously I realise I will need to walk much longer each day.

Just wanted the experts opinion, is 2 months enough time to prepare for this? Mid September a decent time to start? Can anyone offer any advice for this route? I understand it looks a tad more challenging in terms of terrain. It's been a dream of mine to do the Camino since 2012, so I'm hoping I can at least do the short version in my lifetime I'm 42.

Any advice welcome - feel free to be honest.

If you have joint problems, I'm not sure this is the ideal Camino for you. It does go through the mountains with some pretty significant and steep descents, which can be quite challenging for the knees. It's a wonderful Camino, don't get me wrong. But I don't think I would recommend it as a first Camino, especially for someone dissuaded from the Frances by knee, hip, and arthritis issues

I completely agree with David's assessment. I have not personally walked the Primitivo but I have walked the Norte. In the view of other pilgrims I have spoken to and read about the consensus is that it is more difficult than the Norte. When I walked the Norte I became friends with some young men and women (all fantastic people) who walked the Norte with me and then split off for the Primitivo. I stayed on the Norte and fantastically I met them all in a pizza place in Arzua. The first thing they said to me was "old man we were always worried we would have to cal SIlvia (my wife) and tell her we left you on the side of the camino. The Primitivo would have finished you!! I was 63 at the time.
As you said you realze that your 3-4 a week treks are not the same as a pilgrimage. You will never know how different it is walking every day until you have the privilege to do it. I am 70 now and push myself up the steep hills with my poles I zig zag down the steep downhills that you encounter on the camino. If you have hip, knee problems and arthritis these issues will be greatly exasperated. As David said if the Frances scared you off, I believe at our age the Norte and especially the Primitivo are way more challenging. I think you should listen to all advice but I do believe those of us on the back end of life can relate and advise with more accuracy and care. Of course there are some seniors that can walk it without problems. I know I am lucky enough now that I could do it. It is on the horizon for two caminos from now. Yes the CP from Porto would be a good alternative. Just be careful of the cobblestones. You don't need boots, trail runners are perfect. But again that is just one pilgrim's opinion.

 

[bullingtonce]

Hi - was hoping to get the opinion of some people experienced with this route. My original plan was for the original 900km Camino, however this was 10 years ago when I was in better health and fitness. Since then 'life' has happened, knee injuries, bad hips, some arthritis. Also lack of available holidays to commit to such a journey.

I was dismayed until I discovered the Camino Primitivo route. It seems much more reasonable for me - I would only need to take off around 3 weeks it seems, and I have a window open mid September this year. I currently do around 3-4 10km walks each week, often up steep hills so I'm not too concerned about my fitness. However obviously I realise I will need to walk much longer each day.

Just wanted the experts opinion, is 2 months enough time to prepare for this? Mid September a decent time to start? Can anyone offer any advice for this route? I understand it looks a tad more challenging in terms of terrain. It's been a dream of mine to do the Camino since 2012, so I'm hoping I can at least do the short version in my lifetime I'm 42.

Any advice welcome - feel free to be honest.

The mindset is more important than the physical. To me, you have the mindset to do the Camino. As for the physical part of the Camino, you will find out when you actually walk the Camino. Will there be physical suffering; yes, of course as life itself is suffering. Physical suffering on the Camino is to be expected. You yourself will know when it has gone too far for you to continue. Go forward with your plans and God bless. Chuck

 

[Quinranda]

I've walked the Frances four times and completed the Primitivo last month. The Primitivo is both breathtakingly beautiful and incredibly physically challenging. If your concerns are mainly physical (vs the amount of time you have), I think I'd recommend what others have already said: starting someplace like Leon on the Frances. From Leon, you'll walk the end of the Meseta, two beautiful climbs up to Foncebadon and O'Cebreiro and into the lovely Galician Eucalyptus forests. It's a nice cross section of landscapes with plenty of amenities.

If the Primitivo is calling, it's totally doable. Just know that the elevation gains and losses are really substantial for the first 2/3s of the way. And you really have to carry both food and plenty of water as there are not as many places to stop each day. Some days, none at all.

I hope this is helpful. Happy planning.

 

[dbeatriceb]

September will be a great time to walk the Primitivo. Summer heat will hopefully have abated some by then. And if you’re already used to hills, the constant ups and downs of the Primitivo shouldn’t be a problem. There definitely isn’t the same pilgrim infrastructure as on the frances, but if you’re willing to utilize private accommodations sometimes, lodging should be no problem.
Unfortunately I can’t share much more, having started the Primitivo a few years ago I had to cut my trip short— I was in a hurry at the end of the day, anxious to reach the town where I was staying for the night. On a rather steep rocky incline, somehow my feet believed I had turned into a mountain goat—
One misstep and, “CRACK,” I broke a metatarsal in my foot and had to end the walk prematurely. A rookie mistake and entirely my own fault, darn it! The Primitivo is still on my bucket list though, and when I go I will probably aim for a September or October trek. The scenery is beautiful and the locals are lovely—Enjoy, and Buen Camino!

 

[JoroAtanasof]

I’ve done Primitivo when I was in my worst shape 3 years ago ( home office + lockdown = 18 kg overweight ) and I had 2 inguinal hernia operations previous year . It is more challenging Camino but it is shorter and you can combine it with 3-4 days of walks to finistere and Muxia - not bad for first Camino .
In my daily routine I walk around 10 kms per day and It was enough I think many people overtrain for Camino . Keep the backpack lite , get some comfortable shoes and just go . I am 42 and last 6 years on different Caminos I saw much older people in way better shape than me

 

[sp01326]

Hi. I would only add that the step of Hospitales is the most fascinating step that I know. And that is the unique step that includes a long distance without services (17km) in the Primitivo. You could plan to avoid it or to walk it joining other pilgrims.
I believe that you could take a stress test walking at home 20-22km three consecutive days. If you’ll survive the test you’ll be able to walk the primitivo with attention and respect but without special problems.
As you know, after Melide the way will not much exciting because of the crowd but you could take an alternative route (or a bus). The same problem lies on the second part of French way, very beautiful from Leon to Cebreiro. Equally challenging because of Cruz de hierro and Cebreiro but crowded from Melide.

 

[David Tallan]

As you know, after Melide the way will not much exciting because of the crowd but you could take an alternative route (or a bus).

I didn't find it crowded after Melide last year. And I wasn't walking at a quiet time of year (late July). All you need to do to avoid the crowds is to stop "off stage". After Melide I stayed in Salceda and Lavacolla instead of Arzua and O Pedrouzo and got plenty of solitude.

 

[trecile]

As you know, after Melide the way will not much exciting because of the crowd but you could take an alternative route (

I didn't find it crowded after Melide last year. And I wasn't walking at a quiet time of year (late July). All you need to do to avoid the crowds is to stop "off stage". After Melide I stayed in Salceda and Lavacolla instead of Arzua and O Pedrouzo and got plenty of solitude.

I had the same experience as @David Tallan on late June last year. Plus I enjoy the energy and joy that the new pilgrims that I meet in these final stages bring.

 

[Mr Magoo]

I did the Primitivo in September 2017. I was 67 at the time. I didnt think it was really mountainous, but like someone here says, the first 2/3 are pretty hilly . The Hospitales is a long day, but I thought the gradient up wasnt that bad. The challenge for me was the heat, I come from a place famous for bad weather, so I started very early. Yes, one of those people who creep out of the dormitory in the dark. If you do this, don't use russly plastic bags & organise you kit outside if possible- however, it means you keep cooler & theres no anxiety getting to your next stop.
The private albergues were very good, worth paying the extra for. I used one of the apps that you can get & had no problem finding somewhere, but maybe its getting more crowded now. I also had very light bivouac kit & used it a few times ,at a campsite & in the grounds of albergues. Again, this took the anxiety out of getting a bed. ("Wild Camping" is rightly illegal in Spain of course )
However, to balance this positive view , I did get a knee problem after overdoing a long steep descent & nearly bailed out. Bethany from Tennesee , a marathon runner, told me to keep going, strap it, not to limp (important), & it would get better after a couple of days- it hurt but she was right. Thank you U.S.A. !
Hope my tuppenny worth helps.....

 

[Isabelpilgrim]

Hi - was hoping to get the opinion of some people experienced with this route. My original plan was for the original 900km Camino, however this was 10 years ago when I was in better health and fitness. Since then 'life' has happened, knee injuries, bad hips, some arthritis. Also lack of available holidays to commit to such a journey.

I was dismayed until I discovered the Camino Primitivo route. It seems much more reasonable for me - I would only need to take off around 3 weeks it seems, and I have a window open mid September this year. I currently do around 3-4 10km walks each week, often up steep hills so I'm not too concerned about my fitness. However obviously I realise I will need to walk much longer each day.

Just wanted the experts opinion, is 2 months enough time to prepare for this? Mid September a decent time to start? Can anyone offer any advice for this route? I understand it looks a tad more challenging in terms of terrain. It's been a dream of mine to do the Camino since 2012, so I'm hoping I can at least do the short version in my lifetime I'm 42.

Any advice welcome - feel free to be honest.

I walked from the dam, before Grandas de Salime to Santiago last August. I wasn't in super good shape and didn't find that half overly difficult, minus the heat, and running out of water during a section where everything was closed. If you search on YouTube there are videos of the whole way from Oviedoto Santiago

Thanks for the replies - what would you say is the main difference between this route and the Frances? Does it come down to difficulty? This one attracts me as well because it seems less busy (less pilgrims), but also understand the downside is probably less developed infrastructure. It's my first time doing a trek like this, so just want to set myself up for the best experience.

I walked it last August, it was a lot less busy, almost lonely. It depends on what experience you are looking for, once you get to Melide you do get into the crowds again, but depending on how you time your stops, it can be very introspective, I was alone most of the time, except for Lugo.