- Time of past OR future Camino
- Some in the past; more in the future!
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We are starting off a bit slowly so you may catch us! We’re taking three days to get to O Barco de Valdeorras instead of the two Gronze stages.I'm a day behind you. Start tomorrow (Thursday) . looking forward to hearing your experiences!
Day 1: Ponferrada to Villavieja — 16km
After flying Rome-Madrid on Monday and then bussing Madrid-Ponferrada yesterday, we were ready to finally start our Invierno today. But first, the sky above Ponferrada put on quite a show late yesterday afternoon!
View attachment 172637
After much discussion on how to begin this camino, we opted for a short day to Villavieja to get us into the rhythm, though it was probably a bit too short. Although overcast for most of the day, it was a pleasant walk and we are happy to be back in Spain and on the camino after being ultra focussed on Italy for most of the last year. Wild cherries and the scenery around Villavieja were the main highlights today, and we also enjoyed passing through villages throughout the stage (a rarity on recent Italian walks) and having short interactions with friendly locals.
View attachment 172638
We only met two pilgrims on the trail (Italians!) and thought we would have the albergue at Villavieja to ourselves, but one other pilgrim rocked up at 5pm. As others have reported, the albergue is great, with everything you need and views to boot. Just as we were about to head to the castle in the afternoon, it started raining, so that’s on hold for now. Unfortunately the forecast is not great for Las Médulas tomorrow, but so be it — we will take whatever this camino gives us.
Yes, we called today to reserve beds there on the recommendation of several others. Looking forward to it!Will you be staying at Casa Rosa in Puente de Domingo Flórez? I cannot figure out why they disappeared from Gronze, but they should be open, and it is a five star albergue.
I loved the cherries on the Invierno, wild and the ones offered by locals.Wild cherries
I'll be there in a week or two! Hoop weather is a little better, buen camino and I follow your threadDay 1: Ponferrada to Villavieja — 16km
After flying Rome-Madrid on Monday and then bussing Madrid-Ponferrada yesterday, we were ready to finally start our Invierno today. But first, the sky above Ponferrada put on quite a show late yesterday afternoon!
View attachment 172637
After much discussion on how to begin this camino, we opted for a short day to Villavieja to get us into the rhythm, though it was probably a bit too short. Although overcast for most of the day, it was a pleasant walk and we are happy to be back in Spain and on the camino after being ultra focussed on Italy for most of the last year. Wild cherries and the scenery around Villavieja were the main highlights today, and we also enjoyed passing through villages throughout the stage (a rarity on recent Italian walks) and having short interactions with friendly locals.
View attachment 172638
We only met two pilgrims on the trail (Italians!) and thought we would have the albergue at Villavieja to ourselves, but one other pilgrim rocked up at 5pm. As others have reported, the albergue is great, with everything you need and views to boot. Just as we were about to head to the castle in the afternoon, it started raining, so that’s on hold for now. Unfortunately the forecast is not great for Las Médulas tomorrow, but so be it — we will take whatever this camino gives us.
Follow your thread!Day 1: Ponferrada to Villavieja — 16km
After flying Rome-Madrid on Monday and then bussing Madrid-Ponferrada yesterday, we were ready to finally start our Invierno today. But first, the sky above Ponferrada put on quite a show late yesterday afternoon!
View attachment 172637
After much discussion on how to begin this camino, we opted for a short day to Villavieja to get us into the rhythm, though it was probably a bit too short. Although overcast for most of the day, it was a pleasant walk and we are happy to be back in Spain and on the camino after being ultra focussed on Italy for most of the last year. Wild cherries and the scenery around Villavieja were the main highlights today, and we also enjoyed passing through villages throughout the stage (a rarity on recent Italian walks) and having short interactions with friendly locals.
View attachment 172638
We only met two pilgrims on the trail (Italians!) and thought we would have the albergue at Villavieja to ourselves, but one other pilgrim rocked up at 5pm. As others have reported, the albergue is great, with everything you need and views to boot. Just as we were about to head to the castle in the afternoon, it started raining, so that’s on hold for now. Unfortunately the forecast is not great for Las Médulas tomorrow, but so be it — we will take whatever this camino gives us.
Where did you find the number to call?Yes, we called today to reserve beds there on the recommendation of several others. Looking forward to it!
That's a fair question, since they are not on Gronze. It would be 648 41 74 06.Where did you find the number to call?
I'm a day behind you. Start tomorrow (Thursday) . looking forward to hearing your experiences!
Nick, we are doing the same with 3 days to O’Barco. That was quite the climb to the Albergue in Villaviejo. But feels like a 5 star hotel. I was planning on staying at the donativo in A’Rue but have no luck in getting a reply. I’m relying on WiFi for my comms. I’m also waiting for rain to stop to visit castle. Safe journey!We are starting off a bit slowly so you may catch us! We’re taking three days to get to O Barco de Valdeorras instead of the two Gronze stages.
@timr, remembering and sharing so many minute details of that day on the Inveirno, even if possibly referring to old notes, brings back memories to the forefront of our minds; making us feel as though we were just there "yesterday". I always enjoy recalling particular days on the Camino, and each one is special in some way when it is triggered by a forum thread; including the more difficult days. It's probably a big reason I participate on the forum so often.But I have to say, that it was dry and secure, and a walk of 33+km promotes a good night's sleep!
Would love if you could comment on the difficulty of the hills throughout your camino. Try to see it through 70 year old legsDay 1: Ponferrada to Villavieja — 16km
After flying Rome-Madrid on Monday and then bussing Madrid-Ponferrada yesterday, we were ready to finally start our Invierno today. But first, the sky above Ponferrada put on quite a show late yesterday afternoon!
View attachment 172637
After much discussion on how to begin this camino, we opted for a short day to Villavieja to get us into the rhythm, though it was probably a bit too short. Although overcast for most of the day, it was a pleasant walk and we are happy to be back in Spain and on the camino after being ultra focussed on Italy for most of the last year. Wild cherries and the scenery around Villavieja were the main highlights today, and we also enjoyed passing through villages throughout the stage (a rarity on recent Italian walks) and having short interactions with friendly locals.
View attachment 172638
We only met two pilgrims on the trail (Italians!) and thought we would have the albergue at Villavieja to ourselves, but one other pilgrim rocked up at 5pm. As others have reported, the albergue is great, with everything you need and views to boot. Just as we were about to head to the castle in the afternoon, it started raining, so that’s on hold for now. Unfortunately the forecast is not great for Las Médulas tomorrow, but so be it — we will take whatever this camino gives us.
I was planning on staying at the donativo in A’Rue but have no luck in getting a reply.
Just finished Saturday. Was the only person in albergue in Silleda. Went three days at one point w/o seeing another pilgrim on the road and eleven days without meeting another native English speaker. You'll want to pack some food if not stopping in larger towns. Can be hard to find open restaurants, cafes, supermarkets in smaller ones even where google maps shows them. Buen Camino.Day 1: Ponferrada to Villavieja — 16km
After flying Rome-Madrid on Monday and then bussing Madrid-Ponferrada yesterday, we were ready to finally start our Invierno today. But first, the sky above Ponferrada put on quite a show late yesterday afternoon!
View attachment 172637
After much discussion on how to begin this camino, we opted for a short day to Villavieja to get us into the rhythm, though it was probably a bit too short. Although overcast for most of the day, it was a pleasant walk and we are happy to be back in Spain and on the camino after being ultra focussed on Italy for most of the last year. Wild cherries and the scenery around Villavieja were the main highlights today, and we also enjoyed passing through villages throughout the stage (a rarity on recent Italian walks) and having short interactions with friendly locals.
View attachment 172638
We only met two pilgrims on the trail (Italians!) and thought we would have the albergue at Villavieja to ourselves, but one other pilgrim rocked up at 5pm. As others have reported, the albergue is great, with everything you need and views to boot. Just as we were about to head to the castle in the afternoon, it started raining, so that’s on hold for now. Unfortunately the forecast is not great for Las Médulas tomorrow, but so be it — we will take whatever this camino gives us.
Thank you!Nick, I don't know yet if the Inveirno is in my future, but what I do know is that I will be following your Camino on this thread with enthusiasm, and look forward to your updates and photos...as always!
My legs are older than yours, and I don't like hills either. Sure there are hills on the Invierno, but for me they were not a major problem since I take my time and walk as slowly as necessary. The one piece I haven't walked is the stage from A Rua to Montefurado, since that would have made a longer distance than I wanted for the day.Would love if you could comment on the difficulty of the hills throughout your camino. Try to see it through 70 year old legsAs I for one never enjoyed a really long and steep climb, which I have obviously had to endure many times haha.
The son in the family checked us in and, for what it’s worth, he said his parents asked to be removed from Gronze because they wanted to have more flexibility regarding the publication of their opening times, eg to not necessarily open and close for the season the same time every year etc.Casa Rosa is on both the Wise Pilgrim and Buen Camino apps.
Nick, you have gotten to know me quite well, virtually.Thank you!
Even though it’s only a small sample size so far, I think the Invierno could be a great option for you. It’s a good length for being away from home for less than a month, and it seems like there are options for shortening stages.
I stayed there last night. There were only two of us, and the hospitalera was friendly and helpful. She cooked a good communal dinner. You should have no problem getting a bed there - reservations are not accepted and hospitaleros/as are volunteers.was planning on staying at the donativo in A’Rue but have no luck in getting a reply
Good to know. As we are a couple, we don’t mind quiet routes, and we are happy to not meet other English speakers as we enjoy speaking different languages where possible. Although any Spanish speakers in the area should note that Wendy is instituting a unilateral ban on castellano in favour of galego once we cross into Galicia tomorrow!Went three days at one point w/o seeing another pilgrim on the road and eleven days without meeting another native English speaker.
Good tip, thanks. Being vegans, we are used to carrying food with us on camino just in case, so business as usual there but we will be mindful of supermarket closures in particular.You'll want to pack some food if not stopping in larger towns. Can be hard to find open restaurants, cafes, supermarkets in smaller ones even where google maps shows them.
My legs are older than yours, and I don't like hills either. Sure there are hills on the Invierno, but for me they were not a major problem since I take my time and walk as slowly as necessary. The one piece I haven't walked is the stage from A Rua to Montefurado, since that would have made a longer distance than I wanted for the day.
It general wasn't a lot of rolling hills one after another but felt like when they came they often tended to be long and/or steep stretches. Every time you come down to level of Sil River, as you do with some frequency, you realize you're going to end up climbing again.Would love if you could comment on the difficulty of the hills throughout your camino. Try to see it through 70 year old legsAs I for one never enjoyed a really long and steep climb, which I have obviously had to endure many times haha.
You’ve received some good replies already. Only two days in for us but so far the hills have been fine. Hard to simulate 70-year-old legs so the best we can do is that Wendy can offer 48-year-old ones with plantar fasciitis!Would love if you could comment on the difficulty of the hills throughout your camino. Try to see it through 70 year old legsAs I for one never enjoyed a really long and steep climb, which I have obviously had to endure many times haha.
I have a few years to go before my legs hit 70, but I've been surprised that my legs haven't really complained so far on the Invierno. Last year my calves were really screaming on the Norte and Primitivo. I'm three days ahead of @jungleboy.Would love if you could comment on the difficulty of the hills throughout your camino. Try to see it through 70 year old legsAs I for one never enjoyed a really long and steep climb, which I have obviously had to endure many times haha.
I'm not sure I'm the best judge, though. Going uphill actually relieves my plantar fasciitis pain, so I like hills!You’ve received some good replies already. Only two days in for us but so far the hills have been fine. Hard to simulate 70-year-old legs so the best we can do is that Wendy can offer 48-year-old ones with plantar fasciitis!
At what time is breakfast served? I'm sure I've asked them already but don't remember... I stayed there twice but left so early in the morning I didn't have breakfast. Seeing this, I know I have to return..!I just finished the Invierno last week. Casa Rosa is an absolutely wonderful albergue one of if not my favorite albergue. Be sure to stay for breakfast!
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It's ready at 7:00At what time is breakfast served? I'm sure I've asked them already but don't remember..
Well, that seems odd to me, because they can change from open to closed to open at will with a quick note to Gronze. Not being in gronze seems like a real drawback, but I guess they are doing fine with word of mouth.he said his parents asked to be removed from Gronze because they wanted to have more flexibility regarding the publication of their opening times, eg to not necessarily open and close for the season the same time every year etc.
Am following this all with interest as I want to walk this Camino with my 70+ legs as wellWould love if you could comment on the difficulty of the hills throughout your camino. Try to see it through 70 year old legsAs I for one never enjoyed a really long and steep climb, which I have obviously had to endure many times haha.
Thanks for the helpful and inspiring notes. I’m planning to walk in September with the same slow start. As a a 70+ native English speaker (with only a little Spanish) I’m going solo on this one and all the feedback helps build anticipation.Day 2: Villavieja to Puente de Domingo Flórez — 23km (with some alternative routes and a wrong turn)
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A fabulous stage today with some wonderful scenery, the Médulas lookout/tunnels, cherries (obvs) and better weather than we expected.
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In the early morning the sun was out and we went up to the Cornatel castle and had some silhouette views against the light before continuing on our way and beginning our slightly convoluted series of alternate paths. We took the La Chana variant that skips Borrenes and enjoyed it; between Paradela de Muces and La Chana the path was in a beautiful forest. After La Chana, on the ‘standard’ Borrenes alternative, we missed a turn and that cost us 20-25 minutes as we had to backtrack (look for arrows on the road!), but soon we were back among really lovely scenery and the sun was still out.
By the time we reached the Orellán mirador it had clouded over but it was still a spectacular view, and we also enjoyed going into the gallerias. As Wendy pointed out, we visitors tend to think of the landscape here as a wonder of nature but the destructive process by which the Romans actually created it means it might be better described as an environmental disaster.
After the mirador we stayed high (albeit descending a bit) and skipped the village of Las Médulas, rejoining the main path just after the Mirador de las Pedrices. It rained on and off in the afternoon but it wasn’t anything too bad, and now we’re happily at the lovely Casa Rosa with the same one other pilgrim as last night. She went up and down from Las Médulas village to the mirador and generally had a difficult way-finding day, so I think it’s a good idea to plan out how you want to do this section more than usual.
I was hoping that you would reply. I know that you and @peregrina2000 have tackled some serious caminos, difficulty wise and I know that you are the age of a very, very slightly older sisterMy legs are older than yours, and I don't like hills either. Sure there are hills on the Invierno, but for me they were not a major problem since I take my time and walk as slowly as necessary. The one piece I haven't walked is the stage from A Rua to Montefurado, since that would have made a longer distance than I wanted for the day.
Good to hear! My legs were screaming when I walked the Norte and that was 2018. But wow what beauty! I am sure the Invierno has wonders and beauty abounding.I have a few years to go before my legs hit 70, but I've been surprised that my legs haven't really complained so far on the Invierno. Last year my calves were really screaming on the Norte and Primitivo. I'm three days ahead of @jungleboy.
I especially love the view in your second picture, and in addition, blue skies most always are a plus (if it's not too hot).My favourite part of the actual trail was after Éntoma, when we walked through vineyards, saw our first cork trees of this camino and had some good views. Overall the scenery today couldn’t match that of yesterday, but this was the nicest part in my view.
Thank you — I’m a blue sky demon so I definitely agree! It was the middle of the day at the time of that second picture so a bit washed out and not as deep blue as I really like, but I’ll take it! Plus the plane trail lines (which I usually can’t stand) all coalesced to make a funky cloud!I especially love the view in your second picture, and in addition, blue skies most always are a plus (if it's not too hot).
Long may that be so!it’s safe to say the Invierno isn’t overrun yet!
This 76 English speaking person is so tempted!Thanks for the helpful and inspiring notes. I’m planning to walk in September with the same slow start. As a a 70+ native English speaker (with only a little Spanish) I’m going solo on this one and all the feedback helps build anticipation.
Following! We will be ending our French Way with the Invierno in August.Day 1: Ponferrada to Villavieja — 16km
After flying Rome-Madrid on Monday and then bussing Madrid-Ponferrada yesterday, we were ready to finally start our Invierno today. But first, the sky above Ponferrada put on quite a show late yesterday afternoon!
View attachment 172637
After much discussion on how to begin this camino, we opted for a short day to Villavieja to get us into the rhythm, though it was probably a bit too short. Although overcast for most of the day, it was a pleasant walk and we are happy to be back in Spain and on the camino after being ultra focussed on Italy for most of the last year. Wild cherries and the scenery around Villavieja were the main highlights today, and we also enjoyed passing through villages throughout the stage (a rarity on recent Italian walks) and having short interactions with friendly locals.
View attachment 172638
We only met two pilgrims on the trail (Italians!) and thought we would have the albergue at Villavieja to ourselves, but one other pilgrim rocked up at 5pm. As others have reported, the albergue is great, with everything you need and views to boot. Just as we were about to head to the castle in the afternoon, it started raining, so that’s on hold for now. Unfortunately the forecast is not great for Las Médulas tomorrow, but so be it — we will take whatever this camino gives us.
Send them further along the Camino - I could use some company! When I stayed there, and in Quiroga and A Pobra do Brollón it was just me and Fransisco! And now Francisco has gone farther today than meso there are seven pilgrims at the new albergue and we also met two others who are staying elsewhere
I think they are just two years on the go. They have created a very quirky, cosy place. Wonderful hospitality, incredible breakfast, real spirit of the camino!I am wondering when Casa Rosa started up?
I thought the same.. the Romans left quite a mess behind them at Las Medulas, but hasn't nature reclaimed it beautifully!As Wendy pointed out, we visitors tend to think of the landscape here as a wonder of nature but the destructive process by which the Romans actually created it means it might be better described as an environmental disaster.
Wait til you cross the Minho at Belesar and you'll find a proper hill waiting for you!Only two days in for us but so far the hills have been fine.
..and a treat for you, so!I'm not sure I'm the best judge, though. Going uphill actually relieves my plantar fasciitis pain, so I like hills!
Thank God.There is an alternate path from the dam to A Rúa that avoids the road for the last 2km or so into town
That roadside option was really no fun. And dangerous. No shoulder, a drop-off on the left, and the cars coming out of town flying around the curve aimed at you like giant balls in a game of dodgeball. I didn't like it one bit.it’s much more pleasant than the road option
Oh again, a very happy memory of that place on a Sunday afternoon (in the rain) 2019.I'm sitting at Bar Belesar (Open Wednesday - Sunday) right now contemplating it.
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I'm sitting at Bar Belesar (Open Wednesday - Sunday) right now contemplating it.
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Thanks! It's always a struggle to get people to speak to me in Galego, but I've had a couple of successes on this Camino. For historical and cultural reasons, some Galegos think of their language as being suitable for speaking at home with friends and family, but not with doctors, other professionals, foreigners, etc.@Wendy Werneth Well done with the Galego!
I thought of you when I saw this coming up on Netflix..Clanes - Gangs of Galicia
However it is in Castellano, but as it is set in Galicia, around Cambados, you would hope there would be some local language!
I am sure you don't need to be watching Netflix these days, but winter will come around!
Oh, I loved that spot.I'm sitting at Bar Belesar (Open Wednesday - Sunday) right now contemplating it.
Enjoying your commentary!!the tour we received at the church of Montefurado to being welcomed into the house of Ana and Charlie in Bendilló for a drink
to the tour we received at the church of Montefurado
Thank you and same! We had just passed from Ourense into Lugo, and she told us that the local government in Lugo had committed to opening several churches for pilgrims and offering tours. That’s a great initiative, as we all know that many churches on the camino tend to be closed when we pass them.Enjoying your commentary!!
A lady appeared out of nowhere to give us the tour of the church in Montefurado also last year.
Two British men ahead of us who enjoy a beer or three while on the trail were positively astounded when she yelled ‘Cerveza!’ out the window to them!Also… it’s good to read that Ana is still there in her home in Bendilló to give a welcome and offer food /drinks etc to pilgrims.
We didn’t see the snack site but there is something that meets that description in Os Albaredos so maybe that’s it?I missed the tour of the Montefurado church (And a forum member has told me there is an “unofficial” coffee/snack site there, which I was also unable to find).
We didn’t see him but the stand was there, with cherries and water, so I think it’s still operating.I forgot to ask you to check up on Casimiro, whose house is up on the left as you get close to the river to turn right into the hamlet. His “ecologico” stand looked like it hadn’t been visited in a while. Did you happen to notice anything?
Not that we have seen or heard.Great information Jungleboy! Im on the Meseta now following. I also read about a pilgrim gerting robbed in Ponferrada? Very early. Anything strange on the Invierno?
A woman popped out of the church and beckoned me over as I was walking by and gave me the tour.Enjoying your commentary!!
A lady appeared out of nowhere to give us the tour of the church in Montefurado also last year.
Also… it’s good to read that Ana is still there in her home in Bendilló to give a welcome and offer food /drinks etc to pilgrims.
Yes, it was in Is Alberados, and was complete with a Nespresso machine. I had brought plenty of food and water, so I only took a photo.We didn’t see the snack site but there is something that meets that description in Os Albaredos so maybe that’s it?
I missed the tour of the Montefurado church (And a forum member has told me there is an “unofficial” coffee/snack site there, which I was also unable to find).
Just to add to what @jungleboy has said, I asked the church guide about Sr. Casimiro, since we had seen his stand but not him. According to her, he is alive and well, 95 years young.I missed the tour of the Montefurado church (And a forum member has told me there is an “unofficial” coffee/snack site there, which I was also unable to find).
I forgot to ask you to check up on Casimiro, whose house is up on the left as you get close to the river to turn right into the hamlet. His “ecologico” stand looked like it hadn’t been visited in a while. Did you happen to notice anything?
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Bad Pilgrim ???Ok, I arrived in Tamarite de Litera before noon. I don't know what to do here all day. Maybe I can drag myself into Monzón after all. This time I will not whine about it afterwards. I think...
Maybe that’s why he’s not Good Pilgrim! (Or at least Correct Thread Pilgrim.)Bad Pilgrim ???
Did you mean to post this msg in your live thread : BP on the Catalán ?
Good on you! In 5 attempts, it has never been open! Will try again this October. Once up the hill on the other side is Via Romana winery a beautiful and welcoming friendly spot!I'm sitting at Bar Belesar (Open Wednesday - Sunday) right now contemplating it
Thanks, Wendy! He is wonderful! This is the home where he was born and raised. It has been in his family for many generations. He survived 3 wives, still performs his own chores. In November 2021 he still had his Huerta, took care of his trees, made cherry orujo, used his small mill. His sons moved to Barcelona & Madrid, if I remember correctly, and monitor him with cameras. Neighbors keep an eye out for him! Once he spots you he loves to tell stories and spin a yarn or three. I am so glad to hear he is doing well!Just to add to what @jungleboy has said, I asked the church guide about Sr. Casimiro, since we had seen his stand but not him. According to her, he is alive and well, 95 years young.
What, what? She lives in A Coruña and gives tours of Montefurado? That's so touching.The woman who gives the tours in Montefurado does have the key to it and would have offered to meet us there if it had been a different day, but as it was Sunday she was returning to her home in A Coruña
Wow, times they are a changin'!Finally, we expected to find no places for food or drink on this stage, but in fact there were three
Thanks for sharing that! The cherry orujo looks like the ginjinha that's popular in Lisbon and Óbidos. Perhaps it was for the best that we didn't have a chance to partake. As it was, we arrived in Quiroga at 6pm, and I doubt the orujo would have made us any faster! Sorry that we missed Sr. Casimiro, though.Thanks, Wendy! He is wonderful! This is the home where he was born and raised. It has been in his family for many generations. He survived 3 wives, still performs his own chores. In November 2021 he still had his Huerta, took care of his trees, made cherry orujo, used his small mill. His sons moved to Barcelona & Madrid, if I remember correctly, and monitor him with cameras. Neighbors keep an eye out for him! Once he spots you he loves to tell stories and spin a yarn or three. I am so glad to hear he is doing well!
In Oct 2023 we saw this msg pinned to a post 1.5klms before Ana’s place in Bendilló. Walking thru Bendilló… the way passes directly in front of her home. There was a small similar note I think pinned to her window. We hesitated a moment and she was home. I don’t believe it’s a guaranteed ‘open always’ stop but look out for it - you can be lucky.Ana's house in Bendilló,
Yes, her main home is in A Coruña, but I believe she spends a few days a week in Montefurado. I was very appreciative of the tour and found it insightful (I think she does them only in Spanish, though). From the church plaza, she also pointed out the tunnel built by the Romans to divert the Río Sil and collect gold.What, what? She lives in A Coruña and gives tours of Montefurado? That's so touching.
Gratitude...
(The place was deserted when I walked through in 2019.)
Wow, times they are a changin'!
The volunteer (in Oct2023) who showed us through the church, also pointed out this tunnel & explanation above in Wendy’s post.From the church plaza, she also pointed out the tunnel built by the Romans to divert the Río Sil and collect gold.
Yes, Marisol was our guide too!Tour of church in Montefurado
The volunteer (in Oct2023) who showed us through the church, also pointed out this tunnel & explanation above in Wendy’s post.
Her name was Marisol (pic below on steps of church ) .. (not the one from Borrenes).. I asked about Sr. Casimiro at that time too and she said that he didn’t come up that far much anymore but that he was still with us and well.
Yes, I had bad connection (again) in Tamarite de Literas and tried to handle several threads at a time... It was a mistake.Bad Pilgrim ???
Did you mean to post this msg in your live thread : BP on the Catalán ?
Gronze maybe refers to the situation before the wild fires a couple of years ago. There was a larger portion of those trees before. I hope nature will reconquer the area...First there was a nice, if brief, forest descent, described perhaps over-enthusiastically by Gronze as ‘suave y magnífica’
Oh yes, that might be it, thanks. I was a bit surprised to see they rated both today and yesterday a 3/5 in ‘paisaje’ when I thought yesterday was quite a bit more impressive on that front.Gronze maybe refers to the situation before the wild fires a couple of years ago. There was a larger portion of those trees before. I hope nature will reconquer the area...
Sounds wonderful. If I follow you this autumn, I was thinking of going directly Quiroga-San Clodio-Augas Mestas-Salgueiros/Rozavales [sic]-Monforte de Lemos. About 32km. Allegedly also very beautiful and following the Sil more closely. Had you heard it suggested locally?a full-on day 10.5 hours door-to-door filled with the spirit of the camino,
No, I hadn’t heard about that possibility. Three pilgrims did Quiriga - Monforte the regular way today, about 35km. So your way would shave off a couple of kms and also might have less elevation, I’m not sure. I don’t think there’s anything unmissable on the normal route, so if you think the Sil way might be a better option, go for it!Sounds wonderful. If I follow you this autumn, I was thinking of going directly Quiroga-San Clodio-Augas Mestas-Salgueiros/Rozavales [sic]-Monforte de Lemos. About 32km. Allegedly also very beautiful and following the Sil more closely. Had you heard it suggested locally?
You would then enter A Pobra on the LU-653 road and miss going over the stone rocks over the river, unless after the rotonda that is before the bridge at the entrance to A Pobra you detoured a little to the right @ Av da Feria & then a little left to Rua Abaixo, and over the fun rocks.A couple of practical notes from today’s stage:
Firstly, the forum PDF guide refers to only one water source today, at Carballeda de Lor, but there are two more: one on the climb after the bridge and another near the rest area in Castroncelos.
Secondly, the albergue in Pobra is south of the town centre, and the camino enters town from the south-east. To save time/energy, turn left off the camino after Castroncelos at the Piñeiros sign and approach from the south, as indicated below (where the camino is red, my suggested way is yellow and the albergue is where the blue arrow is). You could also turn off even earlier from Castroncelos.
View attachment 172941
This sign is on the wall in the albergue in A Rúa.In Oct 2023 we saw this msg pinned to a post 1.5klms before Ana’s place in Bendilló. Walking thru Bendilló… the way passes directly in front of her home. There was a small similar note I think pinned to her window. We hesitated a moment and she was home. I don’t believe it’s a guaranteed ‘open always’ stop but look out for it - you can be lucky.
FYI for those coming this way, it turns out after talking to them, they had wanted to stay near the medieval bridge at Pensión Pacita, but it was closed so they had to continue. Per Gronze, Pacita is the only accommodation on the camino between Quiroga and Pobra.But the other two, one of whom is 79, walked 30km in the heat today after only going as far as Soldón yesterday and arrived in Pobra a few hours after us — impressive!
Yes, we missed the rocks but we have seen rocks beforeYou would then enter A Pobra on the LU-653 road and miss going over the stone rocks over the river, unless after the rotonda that is before the bridge at the entrance to A Pobra you detoured a little to the right @ Av da Feria & then a little left to Rua Abaixo, and over the fun rocks.
Hello Laurie.I forgot to ask you to check up on Casimiro, whose house is up on the left as you get close to the river to turn right into the hamlet. His “ecologico” stand looked like it hadn’t been visited in a while. Did you happen to notice anything?
Good on you! In 5 attempts, it has never been open! Will try again this October. Once up the hill on the other side is Via Romana winery a beautiful and welcoming friendly spot!
Did you ever try a night boot? That is what finally got rid of my PF after a year.I'm not sure I'm the best judge, though. Going uphill actually relieves my plantar fasciitis pain, so I like hills!
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