I’m hoping by now you did your Camino; any sage words for other peregrinos ? I’m heading there in August.
Becky 59,
Some thoughts on the Camino Ingles:
I walked from Ferrol to Pontedeume which made for a long walk on Day 1. I left early on a Sunday morning and other than a runner, I did not see another person after I left Ferrol proper. I walked to the beginning at the harbor the afternoon before and got my first Sello at the Cathederal (go in the door on the right side of the alter to a small office) so I did not have to retrace my steps the next morning as my hotel (Almendra) was on the other end of town. The way is not well marked as you leave town, basically keep the water on your right. Steady uphill from Fene and then a steep downhill to Pontedeume.
Pontedeume is a nice small town, I got there on a Sunday afternoon so things were beginning to liven up with families out for dinner, etc. I stayed at the Pension Luis, small room with bath for 15 euro. Once again, not well marked as you leave town so watch carefully and, you will be greeted with a nice good morning climb just to get the heart pumping. This day will be a lot of up and down with a time spent on both paved and natural paths. Once again, a decent decent back to sea level into Betanzos.
Day 3, Betanzos to Bruma (Meson do Vento) was not as steep as the first 2 days but it is a steady climb and you will be on natural paths much of the day as you climb up to the main road to Bruma or Meson do Vento. I stopped at Meson Museo is Presedo to get out of the torrential rain, Id recommend it. The next real stop after a couple hours is the bar Avalina, stop there for sure to get 2 Sellos and meet the nice ladies who run the place. Another 30 minutes gets you to Bruma and the Municipal Albergue which I did not hear anything good about. There's a Bar down the road for food/drinks. I stayed at the Hotel Canaima in Meson do Vento, they will pick you up at the Albergue. Nice bar and restaurant and a good breakfast is included. The bar is the evening hub of activity and the first place I got to really interact with other Pilgrims.
Meson do Vento is 1.5 km off the Camino, they'll give you instructions but basically right out of the hotel, cross the highway and turn left after O Meson Novo towards the sports field. You'll begin to think your lost and then you'll see the Way and your way-mark. Seams like a long way before your next cafe break, interesting sculptures at Bar Uzai in Ardemil, next break is O Cruceiro and then a long way to Sigueiro. I stayed at Albergue Miras 13 euros of you call direct, 16 on Booking.com, very clean with nice restaurant. Save time, go to the laundry across the main street and right about 100m, 7 euros wash and dry, share with friends.
The day I left for Santiago, it rained...a lot, apparently a major storm hit just north and it was cold, wet and windy. Not many stops until you get close to Santiago Hotel Castro was the first I believe. Leaving Sigueiro is uneventful, you finally get into the forest for an hour or so just before Santiago.
Overall impression, don't think it's easy because it's short, you'll be tested end of day 1 and most of day 2. Day 3 is steady but was probably my favorite day. Be prepared for all kinds of weather, I did not have enough wind protection but, the weather seems to be changing to a more seasonable nature. Carry snacks and water, some places it's quite a distance between fountains or bars. If you've done the Frances, the Ingles is nothing like that, not many people until Bruma for sure. Call ahead 1 day to book a bed/room, not as many people but not as many available beds either. Look carefully as you leave Ferrol/Pontedeume/Betanzos for way marks. Enjoy every moment and live in that moment!
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