I have been back for a little over a week and thought that I would post some details about the last leg of the Levante before other forum members depart.
This Camino was totally unplanned. And when I say totally I really mean it. I was working at the pilgrim albergue in Ponferrada during Semana Santa and thought that I would only have 2-3 days to walk when my stint was over. Due to unforeseen changes at home time opened up and within 3 days decided to complete the Levante which I had started last June. Luckily I pack light and could hop over to Decathlon in Ponferrada to pick up a water bladder for €9.
Pilgrims:
During the first 6 days (Toledo-Gotarrendura) I was completely alone. In Gotarrendura I met a 75 year old Catalan woman and a 65 year old Austrian who were walking together. I only saw them on and off for three days and them lost them. The Austrian turned up in Zamora a day after me. That's it! In most of the albergues there had not been anyone in over a week. In Ávila I was pilgrim #33 but in Sieteiglesias only #11 since January.
Weather:
When I arrived in Toledo on April 5 it was 27 degrees and it remained warm for the next 2 days. I even broke down and bought a cap (my third!) in a Chino Bazaar. Temps then varied from 2 degrees on the morning I left Ávila to the mid teens. All comfortable walking temperatures. Except for the two days in the mountains which were cold and rainy I often changed from my long pants to 3/4 leggings after 10 a.m.
Signage
Yellow arrows and GR 239. Not always good, will mention a few spots were I went wrong - and yes Laurie @peregrina2000 I ended up making up my own Camino from Toro-Zamora
.
Stages (pretty standard):
April 5 Toledo
Hostal Sol €30. All hostels/pensions were fully booked due to Easter week-end, even the Albergue Juventil couldn't guarantee a spot. This one was the last on my list and funny that it would be the only one with a room as I stayed here for 2 nights last July. Close to the Camino.
April 6 Easter Sunday Toledo - Torrijos 34,2 km (+10 km detour!)
Camino leaves from the Iglesia de Santiago. The first 8 km are on asphalt but the scenery was lovely - unusual for an exit out of a city. This changed to sandy paths, some stones but great for walking.
I followed the yellow arrows and the signs for the GR 239 and GR 113 when then joined for a while. BEWARE! I have no idea when or where I went wrong but I ended up on the GR 113 instead of the GR 239 which lead me to the town of Albarreal de Tajo which also happened to be 21 km from Toledo (as Rielves which was where I should have been). I was way off course. Luckily a woman from Albarreal explained how I could take a country dirt road to Rielves and get back on to the Camino. Two hours later I reached Rielves and then had another 10km to Torrijos. First day 44 km!
Albergue: almost at the exit of town, across from the ayuntamiento. Went to the Policía local (next to the ayto.) for a stamp and they called the person responsible to open up the albergue. 4 rooms with 1 bunkbed each and 2 bathrooms. Donativo. Beware: the water is turned on when you arrive but found that it had been turned off at night as there was no water in the morning. Fountain in the plaza of the ayuntamiento.
Bar Abuelo was closed due to Easter holiday.
April 7 Torrijos - Escalona 24,5 km
Signage was fair, the arrows could have been bigger and more frequent. The first 1,5 hours were fine but then I reached an intersection with 3 sandy roads without markings. One seemed to continue ahead so I followed it into the olive groves for at least 20 min without any signs. I saw the castle of Maqueda to my left and moving further away so I knew that I must be wrong. I retraced my steps to the last GR marking (red/white on a tree) and then again to the intersection. Since I still didn't see a sign I took the path to the left towards the castle. After about 10-15 min a red/white marker appeared which leads you to the carretera and into Maqueda which has a beautiful castle.
Several café open in Maqueda. If the first one is closed across from the church there is another one down the road on the Camino going out of town.
The walk from Maqueda to Escalona was beautiful except for the last bit with garbage. Escalona itself is lovely. Arrows into town were great (thanks to an Amigo of the Camino Juan) and I was welcomed with a nice lunch at his house.
Albergue: about 10 minutes outside of the center of town in a school. The cleaning women (limpiadoras) at the school give you a key and show you around. They are very helpful. 2 bunkbeds and a shower and heater. The library (in the old ayuntamiento in the plaza) lets you use a computer for 1 hour.
April 8 Escalona - San Martín de Valdeiglesias 29 km
First coffee break in Almorox which is 7 im from Escalona. Café Dalton has wifi and friendly owner. The last 21 km was beautiful but signage at time confusing (yellow arrow pointing in one direction and GR 239 in the other (take the GR!). BEWARE! There are arrows after leaving Almorox which take you to the carretera and have you stay on the carretera. I didn't understand this as there was a beautiful path on the right through a pine forest. I asked a gentleman coming out of this path if it would take me me SM de Valdeiglesias and he said no, that I would have to follow the carretera. I couldn't believe this but followed the carretera for about 45 minutes still seeing the path through the woods on my right. Problem was that by this time I couldn't cross over as there was a fence. Finally there was an entrance so took my chances. It was a lovely dirt path through the pines with lots of ups and downs. At one point the dirt path changes to asphalt which then leads you back to the carretera but with a red/white marking of the GR! When I turned around I saw a GR marking pointing to the right. This was the right path. Here and there were red/white GR signs but no yellow arrows until you come to a gate and an asphalt road. Be careful here: there is a yellow arrow pointing left and a GR sign pointing right. Go to the right! which will take you to a steep downhill to the left. Signage is beter later on with red/white on stone bolders and trees. Very lovely and peaceful. The Camino leads to a large church which you see in the distance and to the Ayuntamiento/Policía local. They confirmed that the albergue has been closed for over one year and that Hostal Pilar offered rooms for pilgrims: €20 for 3 beds! Offer desayuno but no food.
April 9 San Martín de Valdeiglesias - Cebreros - Puerto Arrebatacapas - San Bartolomé de los Pinares 33km
First part of walk on carretera N403 direction Ávila. After about 5km the Camino turns off into the fields, grass, etc. Lovely but as I approached Cebreros it started to rain. Bought a few things at the supermarket (good idea as SB de los Pinares doesn't have much). The owner of the bar in Cebreros said that I was in for a tough climb. It was actually very doable and once you get to the Puerto there are still a few more climbs before it levels off. There aren't many downs until right before the village (you see it in the valley).
This walk is AMAZING! Incredible beauty with grassy fields, bolders, trees, pastures and creeks. True mountain terrain. Unfortunately for me it rained the entire time and was windy and cold. I only took a few pictures as my fingers were frozen in my thin gloves and I couldn't manoever my telephone. I must return one day to do this stage and the next one as they are amazing.
The town looks like it hasn't changed in hundreds of years. According to the owners of a café (first one on the right) there are 700 inhabitants, mostly mayores. The owners were lovely, simple foods but saw that I was cold and brought me over a portible heater to warm me up.
Keys for albergue normally at the ayuntamiento but it was in obras and one of the painters called the alcadesa María Jesús to say that I was on my way to her house to pick up the key. Donativo.
Albergue in a very old Consultorio de Salud. Very basic 3 bunkbeds, a heater and a microwave. Downstairs toilets and two showers across the street in another building. Note: the electrical sockets are difficult to use in the bedroom but work fine in the toilet (pull out the plug to the hand-dryer).
There is a hostel but I don't have the name nor the price.
April 10 San Bartolomé de los Pinares - Puerto de El Boqueron - Ávila 26 km
It was very foggy when I woke up. A gentleman at the only bar open at 7.30 said that it was dangerous to take the mountain route and that I should go by carretera, that I would get lost. There was no way that I was going to walk 26 km on asphalt and decided to take out my head lamp (which I didn't need) and poncho and brave the elements. The climb started about 4 km after SB de los Pinares. On a clear day it must be amazing with mountains all around but visibility was poor especially from the hightest point and beyond. Grassy campos, cows (some loose), good paths although lots of mushy spots due to the rain from the previous days. When the terrain started flattening out the sun broke through and was actually sunny when I got to Tornadizos de Ávila for coffee (about 8 km from Ávila). The rest of the walk flat and uninteresting. It take quite some time until you actually see the walls of Ávila.
Albergue on the Camino on the way out of town. Signage to the albergue wonderful. Call the number on the gate and someone from the Amigos will come to open up. Wonderful albergue, well equipt with fridgerator and washing machine for free use. No stove but a microwave. Three rooms, mine had one bunkbed. Moderen.
April 11 Ávila - Gotarrendura 24 km
By this time already 6 days by myself, not a pilgrim in sight. In Gotarrendura I met the first pilgrims.
As I didn't feel like walking up into Ávila again, I left without a usual café con leche and tostada. NOTHING was open along the way, neither in Narillos de Leonardo nor in Cardeñosa at 10 a.m. In this area the bars only open at 11 a.m. so be prepared. The walk was nothing special to Cardeñosa but lovely after that with green campos, something I am not used to seeing as I often walk in the summer.
Gotarrendura is a town of 110 with a lovely albergue. Only 2 bunkbeds but there were only us three so ok (except that the other 2 snored!!). There is even a washer and a dryer that is free!!! The bar in town is run by a lovely woman who will fix up something to eat. Since I like to leave between 7.45-8.00 (was dark till 7.30) and the bar would not be open, she made me café con leche, let it cool then put it into a bottle in a bag with magdalenas. The next morning I warmed up the coffee in a pan in the kitchen of the albergue.1
April 12 Gotarrendura - Arévalo 28 km
The first town with a café is El Bohadon (near the church). It is actually a little grocery store/annex bar which the owner opened up to serve me a coffee.
Flat, sandy path with pine trees going on forever. Lovely walking day.
The arrows take you into the center of town. A friend of mine had stayed in Hostal del Campo in March so I went over there but at €30 I decided to head for the Policía Local and ask about the polideportivo. A policeman explained me where it was (about 10 min from the center) and said that he would meet me there. Rather than the usual gym mat on the floor of a dressing room which I am familar with from the Mozárabe, it was a side room with 2 bunkbeds and a shower/toilet. Very basic and not very clean but heck, it was only for one night.
April 13 Arévalo - Medina del Campo 34 km
Not very interesting today. Flat countryside, fields of agriculture and the last 12 km along a dirt path beside a carretera which reminded me of the Vía de la Plata stage to El Cubo de Vino.
Nothing open in Palacios de Goda or anywhere else until Ataquines.
Beware: got off track thinking that I needed to go into the town of Ataquines - per Mundicamino the Camino takes you there. This is NOT CORRECT, you should continue straight by passing Ataquines on your right, unless you want to stop there in which case you take a passover across the carretera and then back.
Albergue with the Carmalitas €10. Private room with a towel and sheets! Pleasant town.
April 14 Medina del Campo - Sieteiglesias 26 km
Be careful when you reach the Iglesia de Santiago (Laurie had already warned me that the Sureste and Levante split here but I still took the wrong Camino!). At the church I only saw yellow arrows off to the right and there was no sign designating either Camino. It didn't seem right as it took me back under the train tracks and around the city to a Reposal gas station. This is wrong! I asked three gentleman out for their morning walk and they confirmed that I had to return to the church. Once I was back there with my back to the church I saw a small arrow pointing in front. This is the correct route as the men had explained that it would take me up over a bridge. This part of the Camino is poorly marked, you follow the train tracks for quite some time. Have breakfast in Medina del Campo as the first town with bars is only in Navas del Rey about 1/2 way.
Albergue is the ayuntamiento de Sieteiglesias €3. 2 bunkbeds and a bathroom. Several bars in town and a small store.
April 15 Sieteiglesias - Toro 32 km
Through campos, slightly undulating and more hilly nearing Castrouño. Luckily a bar was open as there was nothing open at 7.45 when I left Sieteiglesias. Watch for the arrows as I missed them leaving Castrouño and also Villafranca (went straight both times instead of right). Luckily only off course for about 15 min both times. Follow the río Duero most of the time but deviate from the GR 239. Beware! There is one difficult spot. At one point I saw a GR 14 sign 11 km to Toro. A little bit after that I arrived at a T with no signs to the right or left. To my left was the road so I decided to go in that direction. Wrong as there are no arrows. You see Toro in the distance but I didn't want to follow the carretera so when next possible I took a dirt road to the right. This path ended up taking to back to the Camino so remember when you arrive at the T take a right turn. It was a LONG drag into Toro. It is one of those entries as into Salamanca, Zamora or Córdoba. You see the city kilometers ahead but you just never arrive. Once you finally do get there you have a steep, steep climb into the city.
No albergue in Toro so stayed in Pensión Zamora right before the plaza mayor on the right. If you arrive on a Wednesday as I did you will see a sign día de descanso or rest. Don't worry the bar is closed but the Pensión is open, just call. €20.
April 15 Toro - Zamora 34 km (+ 3 km)
A stage which I would describe as a combo of the Camino, the GR and my own camino. Get instructions from the ayuntamiento where the Camino leaves as I did not see a yellow arrow until about 30 minutes out of Toro on the carretera taking you to Salamanca. The Camino was poorly marked with arrows so most of the day I followed the GR signs. This worked until Villalazan (bar to the right after entering the town). Mundicamino said that I would need to follow the carretera and a Camino buddy of mine which did this in March suggested the same. I knew that Laurie also had gotten lost but I had no intention of following the carretera for so many km. Leaving Villalazan you do have to follow the carretera for a while (I walked on a small patch of grass on the side of the road). At one point there is an arrow to the right which takes to the Duero which you follow for a while (the river is on your right). This takes you through some trees which have two times arrows and then they disappear (is this where you got lost Laurie?). The next hour or two I followed a dirt road which was neither the Camino nor the GR but it seemed right. I could see Zamora in the distance so I couldn't be that off. It eventually took me into a town (no name in sight) and I hit upon a GR sign which I followed all the way to Zamora. It was lovely - through campos, and beside a canal. According to the GR signs it was in total 37km to Zamora. The entry into Zamora is lovely, this time coming from the other direction than the Plata but crossing the same bridge.
I have stayed in the pilgrim albergue in Zamora now 4x and it is lovely as ever. It is situated in the historical center close to everything. The volunteers are my 'collegues' and I ended up staying 4 days helping out.
This ended up being quite a lengthly post. Hope that it helps someone out. Keep in mind that I walked without a guide or GPS - I only had info from the Mundicamino site and Laurie's and my Camino buddy's notes.
Buen Camino!
p.s. I didn't even mention this - I really enjoyed this portion of the Levante, maybe even more than Valencia - Toledo although hard to compare as I did it in the summer, the landscape is so different and I did the first part with a friend.
This Camino was totally unplanned. And when I say totally I really mean it. I was working at the pilgrim albergue in Ponferrada during Semana Santa and thought that I would only have 2-3 days to walk when my stint was over. Due to unforeseen changes at home time opened up and within 3 days decided to complete the Levante which I had started last June. Luckily I pack light and could hop over to Decathlon in Ponferrada to pick up a water bladder for €9.
Pilgrims:
During the first 6 days (Toledo-Gotarrendura) I was completely alone. In Gotarrendura I met a 75 year old Catalan woman and a 65 year old Austrian who were walking together. I only saw them on and off for three days and them lost them. The Austrian turned up in Zamora a day after me. That's it! In most of the albergues there had not been anyone in over a week. In Ávila I was pilgrim #33 but in Sieteiglesias only #11 since January.
Weather:
When I arrived in Toledo on April 5 it was 27 degrees and it remained warm for the next 2 days. I even broke down and bought a cap (my third!) in a Chino Bazaar. Temps then varied from 2 degrees on the morning I left Ávila to the mid teens. All comfortable walking temperatures. Except for the two days in the mountains which were cold and rainy I often changed from my long pants to 3/4 leggings after 10 a.m.
Signage
Yellow arrows and GR 239. Not always good, will mention a few spots were I went wrong - and yes Laurie @peregrina2000 I ended up making up my own Camino from Toro-Zamora
.Stages (pretty standard):
April 5 Toledo
Hostal Sol €30. All hostels/pensions were fully booked due to Easter week-end, even the Albergue Juventil couldn't guarantee a spot. This one was the last on my list and funny that it would be the only one with a room as I stayed here for 2 nights last July. Close to the Camino.
April 6 Easter Sunday Toledo - Torrijos 34,2 km (+10 km detour!)
Camino leaves from the Iglesia de Santiago. The first 8 km are on asphalt but the scenery was lovely - unusual for an exit out of a city. This changed to sandy paths, some stones but great for walking.
I followed the yellow arrows and the signs for the GR 239 and GR 113 when then joined for a while. BEWARE! I have no idea when or where I went wrong but I ended up on the GR 113 instead of the GR 239 which lead me to the town of Albarreal de Tajo which also happened to be 21 km from Toledo (as Rielves which was where I should have been). I was way off course. Luckily a woman from Albarreal explained how I could take a country dirt road to Rielves and get back on to the Camino. Two hours later I reached Rielves and then had another 10km to Torrijos. First day 44 km!
Albergue: almost at the exit of town, across from the ayuntamiento. Went to the Policía local (next to the ayto.) for a stamp and they called the person responsible to open up the albergue. 4 rooms with 1 bunkbed each and 2 bathrooms. Donativo. Beware: the water is turned on when you arrive but found that it had been turned off at night as there was no water in the morning. Fountain in the plaza of the ayuntamiento.
Bar Abuelo was closed due to Easter holiday.
April 7 Torrijos - Escalona 24,5 km
Signage was fair, the arrows could have been bigger and more frequent. The first 1,5 hours were fine but then I reached an intersection with 3 sandy roads without markings. One seemed to continue ahead so I followed it into the olive groves for at least 20 min without any signs. I saw the castle of Maqueda to my left and moving further away so I knew that I must be wrong. I retraced my steps to the last GR marking (red/white on a tree) and then again to the intersection. Since I still didn't see a sign I took the path to the left towards the castle. After about 10-15 min a red/white marker appeared which leads you to the carretera and into Maqueda which has a beautiful castle.
Several café open in Maqueda. If the first one is closed across from the church there is another one down the road on the Camino going out of town.
The walk from Maqueda to Escalona was beautiful except for the last bit with garbage. Escalona itself is lovely. Arrows into town were great (thanks to an Amigo of the Camino Juan) and I was welcomed with a nice lunch at his house.
Albergue: about 10 minutes outside of the center of town in a school. The cleaning women (limpiadoras) at the school give you a key and show you around. They are very helpful. 2 bunkbeds and a shower and heater. The library (in the old ayuntamiento in the plaza) lets you use a computer for 1 hour.
April 8 Escalona - San Martín de Valdeiglesias 29 km
First coffee break in Almorox which is 7 im from Escalona. Café Dalton has wifi and friendly owner. The last 21 km was beautiful but signage at time confusing (yellow arrow pointing in one direction and GR 239 in the other (take the GR!). BEWARE! There are arrows after leaving Almorox which take you to the carretera and have you stay on the carretera. I didn't understand this as there was a beautiful path on the right through a pine forest. I asked a gentleman coming out of this path if it would take me me SM de Valdeiglesias and he said no, that I would have to follow the carretera. I couldn't believe this but followed the carretera for about 45 minutes still seeing the path through the woods on my right. Problem was that by this time I couldn't cross over as there was a fence. Finally there was an entrance so took my chances. It was a lovely dirt path through the pines with lots of ups and downs. At one point the dirt path changes to asphalt which then leads you back to the carretera but with a red/white marking of the GR! When I turned around I saw a GR marking pointing to the right. This was the right path. Here and there were red/white GR signs but no yellow arrows until you come to a gate and an asphalt road. Be careful here: there is a yellow arrow pointing left and a GR sign pointing right. Go to the right! which will take you to a steep downhill to the left. Signage is beter later on with red/white on stone bolders and trees. Very lovely and peaceful. The Camino leads to a large church which you see in the distance and to the Ayuntamiento/Policía local. They confirmed that the albergue has been closed for over one year and that Hostal Pilar offered rooms for pilgrims: €20 for 3 beds! Offer desayuno but no food.
April 9 San Martín de Valdeiglesias - Cebreros - Puerto Arrebatacapas - San Bartolomé de los Pinares 33km
First part of walk on carretera N403 direction Ávila. After about 5km the Camino turns off into the fields, grass, etc. Lovely but as I approached Cebreros it started to rain. Bought a few things at the supermarket (good idea as SB de los Pinares doesn't have much). The owner of the bar in Cebreros said that I was in for a tough climb. It was actually very doable and once you get to the Puerto there are still a few more climbs before it levels off. There aren't many downs until right before the village (you see it in the valley).
This walk is AMAZING! Incredible beauty with grassy fields, bolders, trees, pastures and creeks. True mountain terrain. Unfortunately for me it rained the entire time and was windy and cold. I only took a few pictures as my fingers were frozen in my thin gloves and I couldn't manoever my telephone. I must return one day to do this stage and the next one as they are amazing.
The town looks like it hasn't changed in hundreds of years. According to the owners of a café (first one on the right) there are 700 inhabitants, mostly mayores. The owners were lovely, simple foods but saw that I was cold and brought me over a portible heater to warm me up.
Keys for albergue normally at the ayuntamiento but it was in obras and one of the painters called the alcadesa María Jesús to say that I was on my way to her house to pick up the key. Donativo.
Albergue in a very old Consultorio de Salud. Very basic 3 bunkbeds, a heater and a microwave. Downstairs toilets and two showers across the street in another building. Note: the electrical sockets are difficult to use in the bedroom but work fine in the toilet (pull out the plug to the hand-dryer).
There is a hostel but I don't have the name nor the price.
April 10 San Bartolomé de los Pinares - Puerto de El Boqueron - Ávila 26 km
It was very foggy when I woke up. A gentleman at the only bar open at 7.30 said that it was dangerous to take the mountain route and that I should go by carretera, that I would get lost. There was no way that I was going to walk 26 km on asphalt and decided to take out my head lamp (which I didn't need) and poncho and brave the elements. The climb started about 4 km after SB de los Pinares. On a clear day it must be amazing with mountains all around but visibility was poor especially from the hightest point and beyond. Grassy campos, cows (some loose), good paths although lots of mushy spots due to the rain from the previous days. When the terrain started flattening out the sun broke through and was actually sunny when I got to Tornadizos de Ávila for coffee (about 8 km from Ávila). The rest of the walk flat and uninteresting. It take quite some time until you actually see the walls of Ávila.
Albergue on the Camino on the way out of town. Signage to the albergue wonderful. Call the number on the gate and someone from the Amigos will come to open up. Wonderful albergue, well equipt with fridgerator and washing machine for free use. No stove but a microwave. Three rooms, mine had one bunkbed. Moderen.
April 11 Ávila - Gotarrendura 24 km
By this time already 6 days by myself, not a pilgrim in sight. In Gotarrendura I met the first pilgrims.
As I didn't feel like walking up into Ávila again, I left without a usual café con leche and tostada. NOTHING was open along the way, neither in Narillos de Leonardo nor in Cardeñosa at 10 a.m. In this area the bars only open at 11 a.m. so be prepared. The walk was nothing special to Cardeñosa but lovely after that with green campos, something I am not used to seeing as I often walk in the summer.
Gotarrendura is a town of 110 with a lovely albergue. Only 2 bunkbeds but there were only us three so ok (except that the other 2 snored!!). There is even a washer and a dryer that is free!!! The bar in town is run by a lovely woman who will fix up something to eat. Since I like to leave between 7.45-8.00 (was dark till 7.30) and the bar would not be open, she made me café con leche, let it cool then put it into a bottle in a bag with magdalenas. The next morning I warmed up the coffee in a pan in the kitchen of the albergue.1
April 12 Gotarrendura - Arévalo 28 km
The first town with a café is El Bohadon (near the church). It is actually a little grocery store/annex bar which the owner opened up to serve me a coffee.
Flat, sandy path with pine trees going on forever. Lovely walking day.
The arrows take you into the center of town. A friend of mine had stayed in Hostal del Campo in March so I went over there but at €30 I decided to head for the Policía Local and ask about the polideportivo. A policeman explained me where it was (about 10 min from the center) and said that he would meet me there. Rather than the usual gym mat on the floor of a dressing room which I am familar with from the Mozárabe, it was a side room with 2 bunkbeds and a shower/toilet. Very basic and not very clean but heck, it was only for one night.
April 13 Arévalo - Medina del Campo 34 km
Not very interesting today. Flat countryside, fields of agriculture and the last 12 km along a dirt path beside a carretera which reminded me of the Vía de la Plata stage to El Cubo de Vino.
Nothing open in Palacios de Goda or anywhere else until Ataquines.
Beware: got off track thinking that I needed to go into the town of Ataquines - per Mundicamino the Camino takes you there. This is NOT CORRECT, you should continue straight by passing Ataquines on your right, unless you want to stop there in which case you take a passover across the carretera and then back.
Albergue with the Carmalitas €10. Private room with a towel and sheets! Pleasant town.
April 14 Medina del Campo - Sieteiglesias 26 km
Be careful when you reach the Iglesia de Santiago (Laurie had already warned me that the Sureste and Levante split here but I still took the wrong Camino!). At the church I only saw yellow arrows off to the right and there was no sign designating either Camino. It didn't seem right as it took me back under the train tracks and around the city to a Reposal gas station. This is wrong! I asked three gentleman out for their morning walk and they confirmed that I had to return to the church. Once I was back there with my back to the church I saw a small arrow pointing in front. This is the correct route as the men had explained that it would take me up over a bridge. This part of the Camino is poorly marked, you follow the train tracks for quite some time. Have breakfast in Medina del Campo as the first town with bars is only in Navas del Rey about 1/2 way.
Albergue is the ayuntamiento de Sieteiglesias €3. 2 bunkbeds and a bathroom. Several bars in town and a small store.
April 15 Sieteiglesias - Toro 32 km
Through campos, slightly undulating and more hilly nearing Castrouño. Luckily a bar was open as there was nothing open at 7.45 when I left Sieteiglesias. Watch for the arrows as I missed them leaving Castrouño and also Villafranca (went straight both times instead of right). Luckily only off course for about 15 min both times. Follow the río Duero most of the time but deviate from the GR 239. Beware! There is one difficult spot. At one point I saw a GR 14 sign 11 km to Toro. A little bit after that I arrived at a T with no signs to the right or left. To my left was the road so I decided to go in that direction. Wrong as there are no arrows. You see Toro in the distance but I didn't want to follow the carretera so when next possible I took a dirt road to the right. This path ended up taking to back to the Camino so remember when you arrive at the T take a right turn. It was a LONG drag into Toro. It is one of those entries as into Salamanca, Zamora or Córdoba. You see the city kilometers ahead but you just never arrive. Once you finally do get there you have a steep, steep climb into the city.
No albergue in Toro so stayed in Pensión Zamora right before the plaza mayor on the right. If you arrive on a Wednesday as I did you will see a sign día de descanso or rest. Don't worry the bar is closed but the Pensión is open, just call. €20.
April 15 Toro - Zamora 34 km (+ 3 km)
A stage which I would describe as a combo of the Camino, the GR and my own camino. Get instructions from the ayuntamiento where the Camino leaves as I did not see a yellow arrow until about 30 minutes out of Toro on the carretera taking you to Salamanca. The Camino was poorly marked with arrows so most of the day I followed the GR signs. This worked until Villalazan (bar to the right after entering the town). Mundicamino said that I would need to follow the carretera and a Camino buddy of mine which did this in March suggested the same. I knew that Laurie also had gotten lost but I had no intention of following the carretera for so many km. Leaving Villalazan you do have to follow the carretera for a while (I walked on a small patch of grass on the side of the road). At one point there is an arrow to the right which takes to the Duero which you follow for a while (the river is on your right). This takes you through some trees which have two times arrows and then they disappear (is this where you got lost Laurie?). The next hour or two I followed a dirt road which was neither the Camino nor the GR but it seemed right. I could see Zamora in the distance so I couldn't be that off. It eventually took me into a town (no name in sight) and I hit upon a GR sign which I followed all the way to Zamora. It was lovely - through campos, and beside a canal. According to the GR signs it was in total 37km to Zamora. The entry into Zamora is lovely, this time coming from the other direction than the Plata but crossing the same bridge.
I have stayed in the pilgrim albergue in Zamora now 4x and it is lovely as ever. It is situated in the historical center close to everything. The volunteers are my 'collegues' and I ended up staying 4 days helping out.
This ended up being quite a lengthly post. Hope that it helps someone out. Keep in mind that I walked without a guide or GPS - I only had info from the Mundicamino site and Laurie's and my Camino buddy's notes.
Buen Camino!
p.s. I didn't even mention this - I really enjoyed this portion of the Levante, maybe even more than Valencia - Toledo although hard to compare as I did it in the summer, the landscape is so different and I did the first part with a friend.
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