The Camino is really a step back in time: staying in old albergues (= inns), seeing villages and churches which date back 100s of years, being reminded from time to time of those who provided for pilgrims in the early years of the last millenium, eg Santo Domingo de la Calzada and San Juan de Ortega.
It is also a form of escapism for many: no need to keep in touch with the world, but the enjoyment of meeting other walkers of like mind walking to Santiago or part way. I think many pilgrims return to do part or all of the Way because they enjoy the experience and they hope to re-capture the good moments they enjoyed the first time - and they must succeed because they do it more than once!
Two nights ago would be a case in point. In the Albergue de Juan Bautista at Grañon there was a special atmosphere. First, the albergue: situated as an attachment to the church with one wall being common to the church and inn; a dining / sitting room with room with dormitory as a mezzanine floor overlooking the dining area, the whole under a wooden, sloping roof. In the corner a large fire-place, later lit by the Frenchman (hospitalero) running the place (for a fortnight), and a filled in church window in the church wall; upstairs the bell tower (where washing could be hung!). Second, the people: 19 pilgrims sat down to supper after a Spaniard had entertained us to guitar playing and singing, and another had sung in a powerful voice, and afterwards he could be heard singing in the church during evening prayers. A particularly attractive albergue, well run - and sleeping on mattresses on the floor was no discomfort after a 28 km walk! I was tempted to have a second night there, but will do that in the important town of Burgos, due to be reached tomorrow, where there is much to see.
And what of the walking? Wonderful, long, open views across rolling and, indeed, mountainous country. On Monday (17 October) the sunrise was spectacular and we could see the Pyrenees, well over 100 km away, silhouetted against the sky in the dawn light. Most days are good but yesterday was not! Rain throughout the walk which was largely beside a busy main road (also known as the
Camino de Santiago), but today was really good being through open country, then forest, over a "pass" (1150m), a visit to the fine old church of San Juan de Ortega, described as a jewel on the Camino, and finally into Atapuerca, a small old village, and an old albergue for the night.
A landmark : passed the 1000 km mark on this day, the 200th Anniversary of the Battle of Trafalgar.
