- Time of past OR future Camino
- Recent:Norte/Muxia- Spring '23
MadridWay- Fall '23
After many months of daydreaming, planning and preparation, I set out for the month of June with two Camino friends to walk the Via Podiensis from Le Puy to Auvillar. It is a beautiful route, passing through several regions, each one different than the next. We opted to take the Cele Valley variant, dipping down to Saint Cirq Lapopie. The cliff areas and ancient villages were beautiful and was another feast for the eyes!
I have walked three Caminos in Spain; the full Frances, the Norte and Primitivo, but my opinion is that the Le Puy was the most difficult for me. There are so many ups and downs and sometimes they seemed relentless with no end in sight. I was thankful when the path would become flat for awhile and the last few days seemed easier. The many rocks, loose stones and roots and mud at times had me watching my feet quite often. We thankfully had very little rain in June and the beauty made up for any hardships.
The changing landscapes were lovely and the stone villages of French architecture are truly outstanding, with about 4-5 villages we passed through being on France's "100 most beautiful villages" list.
We booked ahead a day or two at a time, using the tourist office when available or having our current gite owner calling for us.
There were not many coffee/rest stops during the day, often only one at a halfway point, (no red or white San Miguel plastic chairs seen ahead to bring a smile), so we always carried snacks as a backup. My personal favorites were small cans of pate or salmon, cherry tomatoes, pre-made couscous salad, and chocolate bars with nuts.
Many of the communal dinners were delicious and I was surprised that often a plate of unique cheeses was passed around the table before dessert, but never with crackers. All very filling and after walking nearly 480 kilometers I only lost 2 pounds! I found it interesting that at breakfast the coffee is served in what we in America would call cereal bowls. I prefer a mug with a handle, but the French seemed fine picking these "bowls" up with two hands.
Oh yes, speaking of the French people, it was just as everyone else has said on the forum; they love to walk with friends, often in groups of approximately 3 to 8. Most are of retirement age, and there were very few younger people, maybe because it is a more expensive route. My daily average spent hovered around 50+ Euros per day. The bottleneck of French walkers we experienced sometimes in the beginning thinned out after a week or two. Very few of them spoke much English. Almost everyone from the northern European countries speak very good English, but they were only about 10% of the hikers. We only met about five people from the United States in a month, which was surprising, so in many of the villages the locals were excited to meet US citizens and always asked what state/city we were from. I got the impression we were a rarity in this less touristy part of France.
The three of us women walking together got along well, but it was interesting to note how we each viewed this Camino differently. One of them firmly declared that she was a "pilgrim", for the other gal it was a "vacation", and for me it was an "adventure".
Did I prefer one Camino over another?
I'd have to say I enjoyed them all equally, but each for different reasons, so I cannot choose a favorite...they are all favorites!
I have walked three Caminos in Spain; the full Frances, the Norte and Primitivo, but my opinion is that the Le Puy was the most difficult for me. There are so many ups and downs and sometimes they seemed relentless with no end in sight. I was thankful when the path would become flat for awhile and the last few days seemed easier. The many rocks, loose stones and roots and mud at times had me watching my feet quite often. We thankfully had very little rain in June and the beauty made up for any hardships.
The changing landscapes were lovely and the stone villages of French architecture are truly outstanding, with about 4-5 villages we passed through being on France's "100 most beautiful villages" list.
We booked ahead a day or two at a time, using the tourist office when available or having our current gite owner calling for us.
There were not many coffee/rest stops during the day, often only one at a halfway point, (no red or white San Miguel plastic chairs seen ahead to bring a smile), so we always carried snacks as a backup. My personal favorites were small cans of pate or salmon, cherry tomatoes, pre-made couscous salad, and chocolate bars with nuts.
Many of the communal dinners were delicious and I was surprised that often a plate of unique cheeses was passed around the table before dessert, but never with crackers. All very filling and after walking nearly 480 kilometers I only lost 2 pounds! I found it interesting that at breakfast the coffee is served in what we in America would call cereal bowls. I prefer a mug with a handle, but the French seemed fine picking these "bowls" up with two hands.
Oh yes, speaking of the French people, it was just as everyone else has said on the forum; they love to walk with friends, often in groups of approximately 3 to 8. Most are of retirement age, and there were very few younger people, maybe because it is a more expensive route. My daily average spent hovered around 50+ Euros per day. The bottleneck of French walkers we experienced sometimes in the beginning thinned out after a week or two. Very few of them spoke much English. Almost everyone from the northern European countries speak very good English, but they were only about 10% of the hikers. We only met about five people from the United States in a month, which was surprising, so in many of the villages the locals were excited to meet US citizens and always asked what state/city we were from. I got the impression we were a rarity in this less touristy part of France.
The three of us women walking together got along well, but it was interesting to note how we each viewed this Camino differently. One of them firmly declared that she was a "pilgrim", for the other gal it was a "vacation", and for me it was an "adventure".
Did I prefer one Camino over another?
I'd have to say I enjoyed them all equally, but each for different reasons, so I cannot choose a favorite...they are all favorites!
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, all had the same opinion of the guidebooks, terrain, treachery. Adding to the difficulty that time of year, was they had unprecedented amounts of snow the previous winter which created mudslides, washed out trails, fallen/uprooted trees, swelled/overflowed streams were rivers to cross...it was more hell than a walk with St Francis. Accommodations were few and far, and absolutely required reservations. It was indeed more costly than Spain. I would not at all recommend the route in the immediate future, but it was wonderful, walking put aside. I do hope it is cleared and marked and supported better in the next few years as the stops along the way are fabulous! 
, need to get on Duolingo for s few basics , like “I’d like a beer please...”
