Hi AC, We have just completed the del Norte, beginning in Irun on 26 April and finishing in Santiago on 13 June, before walking on to Finisterre and Muxia. We have also walked the Frances and Portugues.
This Spring in Spain was apparently unseasonably wet so our observations with regard to weather and mud may not apply to you.
Firstly, we found the del Norte more difficult than either of the other Caminos. There are very many hills to climb and descend. There is not much flat walking. Depending on some of the options you choose you can make the path very difficult for yourself but, at the same time, these higher or more difficult options certainly have benefits. For example, the high option out of Soto de Luina is spectacular in good weather but you are likely to be walking it absolutely alone. The descent from this option is steep and the option adds a bit extra to the distance into Cadavedo. The high option out of Mondoñedo includes a very steep and long climb to the top of the escarpment. It took us one and three quarter hours from the start of the serious climb to reach the top. It was worth it in our opinion. We saw one other walking pilgrim and two cyclists while taking the whole option into Abadin. From Irun the descent into Pasajes de San Juan is also quite steep. We took the Purgatorio route from Irun which gives spectacular views. There were plenty of other pilgrims doing the same. Peregrina 2000 suggests a number of coastal variants which we either took or considered. One of these, the coastal suggestion out of Islares we found to be very, very, very difficult with some vertical climbing involved as well as a long, steep, zigzagging descent through broken rocks on an indistinct path. We received help to follow the correct path on the way down from a young French girl out for a walk, as well as a kind, young American couple who assisted us with the climb. The views were, however, spectacular! Weather in all these options will be the critical factor. We both slipped and fell several times descending wet and muddy paths. The
Wise Pilgrim guidebook is mostly accurate. Signage is very good, so long as you are paying attention all the time. We missed a couple of turns but the usual Camino Angel saved us from too great an error. There is a lot of road walking and due to this we each wore out a pair of Salomon boots. Our experience with September in Santiago is: no fog and warm to hot weather with long days. Finally, the road or highway walking is relatively safe if you walk on the left facing the oncoming traffic and assume that not every driver will either see you or give you a lot of room. There are some quite dangerous road walking sections, in particular, the last km or so into Salinas follows a narrow, very busy, winding road with no footpath or shoulder. You will need to be very careful on this. I was most concerned here. In summary, the del Norte is no walk in the park but, nevertheless, very enjoyable. Best wishes and Buen Camino, Pat and Anne