John, I just returned from 14 nights on the Camino, SJPP to Burgos. We attended mass every day but 2 -- Valcarlos and Larasoana. On 2 occasions I even managed, quite by accident, to go to Mass morning and evening.
Masses were without doubt the highlight of my pilgrimage, in fact, for me, that's what made it a pilgrimage
. Here are a couple special moments:
In virtually all cases, the Mass celebrated was a pilgrim's Mass. Each priest did things slightly differently, but we were almost always called forward after the final blessing and special prayers were said. In one case each pilgrim was given a Cross of Lorraine, which had just been blessed at Mass and the priest personally placed it around the neck of each pilgrim. In another we were invited to ring a special pilgrim's bell (3 times each) and then each of us signed the church guest book with our names, countries, and the date of our visit. At another church, we read gospel passages that were particularly appropriate for pilgrims and then prayed an Our Father together, each in our various languages!
On several occasions the priest made a point of telling us the people of the parish regularly pray for pilgrims and their safe journeys. And in every case the Spaniards in attendance motioned us up to the front if we seemed uncertain.
Mass was usually at 7:30 or 8 pm, plenty of time to shower, wash clothes, even enjoy a vino tinto without breaking the hour fast
. Times were always posted on the church doors.
We were sticking to the standard
Brierley stages, so I don't know how easily available Mass would be if you stopped in some small town that didn't see a lot of pilgrims. But I did see signs on the doors of several churches where I stopped in during the day.
I think it may be a matter of "seek and ye shall find." Good luck to you and Buen Camino! -- Bala