Eve Alexandra
Veteran Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- 2017 Astorga-SDC, April 2022 SJPP-Muxia
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I agree. Don't over plan!!No way will you get one definitive opinion on the difficulty of any section of the Camino.
I recommend just getting there, start walking and then forming your own opinions.
ultreia
I walked from Acebo to Ponferrada to Villafranca, then the next day I ended at LaFaba, which was plenty hard imo. I loved the muni there. It was beautiful. Then the next morning we headed up to O'Cebreiro after a good night's sleep and had more energy for the rest of the climb, walked around for a couple of hours in full sun and continued on to Fonfria. I hope to do that section the same way this spring when I go again.I did Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro, and it was a fairly difficult day. In my notes I show 18.6 miles - and it's a steep uphill for quite a bit of it. I wouldn't stop at O Cebreiro again, because it was the only albergue I stayed at that I wouldn't stay at again. I would spend the night at La Faba instead.
And I walked from Ponferrada to Villafranca, so a bit shorter.
I would definitely recommend you split them both! The Villafranca to O Cebreiro at least, and I would recommend the Pradela rather than the tarmac route out of town. But to then go on all the way to O Cebreiro makes a long and hard day with two significant ups and one steep down. Plus the walk up to O Cebreiro is beautiful and should be savoured, not endured! I like staying in Acebo, in Molinaseca - there is a lot of up and down there too - and Cacabelos is a lovely place to stop. Don't follow the guidebook stages, they are guides only. Check the miles, the climb and the available accommodation and plan a route that suits you (or don't plan at all).
Whatever you decide, I would strongly recommend you do not take the tarmac way to O Cebreiro. It's not just the hard surface, but I find the close, fast and constant vehicle traffic to be the scariest thing of all. I did this 17 years ago (from Villafranco de Bierzo) so I don't know if the route I took is the one currently called Pradela or not. I don't think it was the Dragonete, though. But regardless, staying off the road and going over the mountains is truly worth the effort. It was my most difficult day on the Camino perhaps, aside from the 1st day over the Napolean, but it was by far one of my most magical and fondly remembered days.
I may be biased though. It was my first truly solo day, as I had temporarily lost my camino family for assorted reasons, and everyone else chose the road route. I chose to ignore my fears of the mountain route's difficulty and of going it alone. After the first lung busting climb, I traversed the beautiful, peaceful chestnut groves where the first gentle snow started falling. It was so quiet and lovely. A bit later, I was briefly courted by a local farmer. He charmed me by introducing me to both the newborn calf in his barn and his mother. He then walked with me a ways, collecting fallen chestnuts I later roasted at the albergue, and he sadly wished me well when I gently turned down his proposal of marriage.
A while later, the snow fall got heavier and I lost the trail, so wandered off along what I assumed to be tractor ruts, hoping I'd just end up somewhere with a roof. Just as I was starting to worry a bit, Jesus of Ave Fenix came careening, driving at breakneck speed up from behind me with my injured hippie friend Indigo hanging out the window screaming get out of the way, he can't stop, he has no brakes, see you there. I crawled out of the (apparently roadside) snow drift relieved to be alive for another day.
Don't be afraid. Walk into the mountains, friend. It's where the magic happens.
I don't remember anything particularly difficult about this stretch, but I didn't do it in one day.Molinaseca to Villafranca Del Bierzo
I have always managed to avoid going up to O Cebreiro at the end of a long day, and therefore didn't find it particularly hard at all.Villafranca to O Cebriero
Yes, I did that in March 2016 and enjoyed it. Don't let the warnings and name "Camino Duro" put you off. The hardest part is the first kilometre or so out of Villafranca. I was walking with someone, and we did have trouble finding the path down from the top, but we were enjoying ourselves (probably not paying attention to arrows) and never worried, since we could SEE a local road, as well as the highway and the inspiring sign of cerveza Estella Galicia down below. It just required some wandering among the chestnut trees! That is another good reason for not trying to go all the way from Villafranca to O Cebreiro in one day, so you are not feeling pressed for time!the alt route from Villafranca called the Pradela
I think things might have changed a lot since then. The middle route that goes roughly along the "highway" is not scary at all now, because a newer bigger elevated highway has taken away most of the traffic. The camino goes along beside a road that isn't used heavily, and the path is separated from the road, by a barrier. I've done it twice and thought it was a pleasant walk, and that would be my choice if I was planning a long day ahead. However, if you have the time and want more quiet, take the right hand route (Pradela).I find the close, fast and constant vehicle traffic to be the scariest thing of all. I did this 17 years ago (from Villafranco de Bierzo) so I don't know if the route I took is the one currently called Pradela or not.
Whatever you decide, I would strongly recommend you do not take the tarmac way to O Cebreiro. It's not just the hard surface, but I find the close, fast and constant vehicle traffic to be the scariest thing of all. I did this 17 years ago (from Villafranco de Bierzo)
I think things might have changed a lot since then. The middle route that goes roughly along the "highway" is not scary at all now, because a newer bigger elevated highway has taken away most of the traffic. The camino goes along beside a road that isn't used heavily, and the path is separated from the road, by a barrier. I've done it twice and thought it was a pleasant walk, and that would be my choice if I was planning a long day ahead. However, if you have the time and want more quiet, take the right hand route (Pradela).
@fenix you may be pleased to hear that road route has been made much safer by the construction of a concrete barrier between you and the traffic for most of the way along the valley, plus the new highway has taken most of said traffic away. I found it a very pleasant walk by the river on a hot day, shade and all. But it sounds as though you had a wonderful day on the other route, so you got the best of it anyway!!
Molinaseca to Villafranca Del Bierzo / Villafranca to O Cebriero
Both of these are over 15 miles. How hard are they?And has anyone taken the alt route from Villafranca called the Pradela? It's listed as an alternative to the regular or the Dragonte in Brierly and it sounds nice. If you have taken this, how hard is it?
Absolutely. We're all different ages, have different levels of fitness, health, experience ... Some of us like walking long stages, some do not. What is easy for me might be very demanding for you or vice-versa.No way will you get one definitive opinion on the difficulty of any section of the Camino.
I recommend just getting there, start walking and then forming your own opinions.
ultreia
Molinaseca to Villafranca Del Bierzo
Villafranca to O Cebriero
Both of these are over 15 miles. How hard are they?
And has anyone taken the alt route from Villafranca called the Pradela? It's listed as an alternative to the regular or the Dragonte in Brierly and it sounds nice. If you have taken this, how hard is it?
We left Villafranca in the morning taking the Pradela, the first right after the bridge heading uphill. We liked it and the views. Part of the view was of the town of Villafranca itself and another part was of the highway down in the valley that the camino followed. It is steep but remember that you have had three weeks of hiking behind you by this time so it shouldn't be dificult for you. There is very little activity going on up there but we did chat with a woman cutting brush in a chestnut grove. We only went as far as La Portela de Valcare though for something like a 15 km / 9.5 mile day.And has anyone taken the alt route from Villafranca called the Pradela? It's listed as an alternative to the regular or the Dragonte in Brierly and it sounds nice. If you have taken this, how hard is it?
It is steep but remember that you have had three weeks of hiking behind you by this time so it shouldn't be dificult for you.
Oops.Eve is starting in Astorga though.
Molinaseca to Villafranca Del Bierzo
Villafranca to O Cebriero
Both of these are over 15 miles. How hard are they?
And has anyone taken the alt route from Villafranca called the Pradela? It's listed as an alternative to the regular or the Dragonte in Brierly and it sounds nice. If you have taken this, how hard is it?
Oops.
But if an old, short, overweight woman with an injured foot and a big pack can make it and even enjoy it ...
From Astorga to Santiago we took 18 days while it is 12 in Brierley's guide.For now I'm planning on shorter stages I think.
From Astorga to Santiago we took 18 days while it is 12 in Brierley's guide.
I'm thinking Brierly's may be less than 12. I just counted. I've got 12 days tentatively planned and I don't have any day longer than 15 miles, most around 12-13 miles.
Astorga to Rabanal
to Molinaseca
to Cacabelos
to Trabadelo
to O Cebriero
to Triacastela
to Sarria
to Portomarin
to Pala de Rei
to Ribadiso
to Pedrouzo
to Santiago
Eve is starting in Astorga...Eve:
Planning, imo, is moot. By this part of the Camino you will probably be making decisions based on your Camino friendships.
Weather also plays a part in the length of your day. If it is too hot, you might not walk as far. A very rainy day, especially in an area leading up to Astorga or Hontanas (muddy) might lead to a change in your plans. A beautiful day might lead to a longer walk.
As long as you do not have any restrictive time restraints, I would not plane at all.
Ultreya,
Joe
Eve is starting in Astorga...
Looks like it will work out Ocebrio to Tricastle was a long walk due to some asphalt walking the last 3rd. I will look at my book when I get home...I'm thinking Brierly's may be less than 12. I just counted. I've got 12 days tentatively planned and I don't have any day longer than 15 miles, most around 12-13 miles.
Astorga to Rabanal
to Molinaseca
to Cacabelos
to Trabadelo
to O Cebriero
to Triacastela
to Sarria
to Portomarin
to Pala de Rei
to Ribadiso
to Pedrouzo
to Santiago
Eve, When I left the albergue or convent or donativo every morning I'd look at the Brierleys and kinda sorta figure out where I'd wind up that night. You never know what you will see, who you will meet, and where you will rest. I walked in faith, and you know, it worked out. I had a bed every night, a meal and a whole new group of friends to tell my two jokes to.Molinaseca to Villafranca Del Bierzo
Villafranca to O Cebriero
Both of these are over 15 miles. How hard are they?
And has anyone taken the alt route from Villafranca called the Pradela? It's listed as an alternative to the regular or the Dragonte in Brierly and it sounds nice. If you have taken this, how hard is it?
Second that.... Don't plan AND if you are using Brierly's, the only thing it's good for is starting fires or toilet paper.I would definitely recommend you split them both! The Villafranca to O Cebreiro at least, and I would recommend the Pradela rather than the tarmac route out of town. But to then go on all the way to O Cebreiro makes a long and hard day with two significant ups and one steep down. Plus the walk up to O Cebreiro is beautiful and should be savoured, not endured! I like staying in Acebo, in Molinaseca - there is a lot of up and down there too - and Cacabelos is a lovely place to stop. Don't follow the guidebook stages, they are guides only. Check the miles, the climb and the available accommodation and plan a route that suits you (or don't plan at all).
Love it!Whatever you decide, I would strongly recommend you do not take the tarmac way to O Cebreiro. It's not just the hard surface, but I find the close, fast and constant vehicle traffic to be the scariest thing of all. I did this 17 years ago (from Villafranco de Bierzo) so I don't know if the route I took is the one currently called Pradela or not. I don't think it was the Dragonete, though. But regardless, staying off the road and going over the mountains is truly worth the effort. It was my most difficult day on the Camino perhaps, aside from the 1st day over the Napolean, but it was by far one of my most magical and fondly remembered days.
I may be biased though. It was my first truly solo day, as I had temporarily lost my camino family for assorted reasons, and everyone else chose the road route. I chose to ignore my fears of the mountain route's difficulty and of going it alone. After the first lung busting climb, I traversed the beautiful, peaceful chestnut groves where the first gentle snow started falling. It was so quiet and lovely. A bit later, I was briefly courted by a local farmer. He charmed me by introducing me to both the newborn calf in his barn and his mother. He then walked with me a ways, collecting fallen chestnuts I later roasted at the albergue, and he sadly wished me well when I gently turned down his proposal of marriage.
A while later, the snow fall got heavier and I lost the trail, so wandered off along what I assumed to be tractor ruts, hoping I'd just end up somewhere with a roof. Just as I was starting to worry a bit, Jesus of Ave Fenix came careening, driving at breakneck speed up from behind me with my injured hippie friend Indigo hanging out the window screaming get out of the way, he can't stop, he has no brakes, see you there. I crawled out of the (apparently roadside) snow drift relieved to be alive for another day.
Don't be afraid. Walk into the mountains, friend. It's where the magic happens.
Molinaseca to Villafranca Del Bierzo
Villafranca to O Cebriero
Both of these are over 15 miles. How hard are they?
And has anyone taken the alt route from Villafranca called the Pradela? It's listed as an alternative to the regular or the Dragonte in Brierly and it sounds nice. If you have taken this, how hard is it?
You listed Day 6 as a rest day. There is the option to walk shorter distances but not take a full rest day. That might work better.Would love to have the time to go slower, stop when we want/need
but can't be done.
You listed Day 6 as a rest day. There is the option to walk shorter distances but not take a full rest day. That might work better.
This definitely crossing my mind, will see how we are travellingYou listed Day 6 as a rest day. There is the option to walk shorter distances but not take a full rest day. That might work better.
Molinaseca to Villafranca Del Bierzo
Villafranca to O Cebriero
Both of these are over 15 miles. How hard are they?
And has anyone taken the alt route from Villafranca called the Pradela? It's listed as an alternative to the regular or the Dragonte in Brierly and it sounds nice. If you have taken this, how hard is it?
Molinaseca to Villa franca does not have all that much altitude gain or descend, so not that bad, but it is a long day.
Vilafranca to O Cebriero is a tough day, especially if you take the Pradela route as the start is a very steep uphill climb. Worth it as the views backs towards Villafranca are breath taking.
What I can suggest in your planning is not to get hung up on following the exact stages in your guide book.
We always look at the days and even out the stages that are long or have a lot of elevation gain. You will find by not stopping at the common stage end spots, accomodations are cheaper since they are not official stage end stops.
We are always surprised that people wish to follow the stages exactly as per their guide books. Be a rebel!
This strategy has worked well for us on our three Camino's
Break the stages so you may enjoy the beauty at your own pace. I try and not think about how hard things are before you get there but how great and energized you feel after walking these trails , so look back and say "I just did that and feel proud"Molinaseca to Villafranca Del Bierzo
Villafranca to O Cebriero
Both of these are over 15 miles. How hard are they?
And has anyone taken the alt route from Villafranca called the Pradela? It's listed as an alternative to the regular or the Dragonte in Brierly and it sounds nice. If you have taken this, how hard is it?
Definitely agree with @nidarosa - no need at all to stick to guide book stages. Both of those would have been far too long for me. We did Acebo-Ponferrada-Villafranca and then Villafranca-Vega de Valcarce-O Cebreiro. That was plenty long enough for us, but everyone is different and some love the longer days.
Molinaseca to Villa franca does not have all that much altitude gain or descend, so not that bad, but it is a long day.
Vilafranca to O Cebriero is a tough day, especially if you take the Pradela route as the start is a very steep uphill climb. Worth it as the views backs towards Villafranca are breath taking.
What I can suggest in your planning is not to get hung up on following the exact stages in your guide book.
We always look at the days and even out the stages that are long or have a lot of elevation gain. You will find by not stopping at the common stage end spots, accomodations are cheaper since they are not official stage end stops.
We are always surprised that people wish to follow the stages exactly as per their guide books. Be a rebel!
This strategy has worked well for us on our three Camino's
Molinaseca to Villafranca Del Bierzo
Villafranca to O Cebriero
Both of these are over 15 miles. How hard are they?
And has anyone taken the alt route from Villafranca called the Pradela? It's listed as an alternative to the regular or the Dragonte in Brierly and it sounds nice. If you have taken this, how hard is it?
Molinaseca to Villafranca Del Bierzo
Villafranca to O Cebriero
Both of these are over 15 miles. How hard are they?
And has anyone taken the alt route from Villafranca called the Pradela? It's listed as an alternative to the regular or the Dragonte in Brierly and it sounds nice. If you have taken this, how hard is it?
Hi not sure of the mile conversion, weare walking from Leon.
Day 1 Leon to Villadangos del Paramo (22km)
Day 2 Villadangos to Astorga (26km)
day 3 Astorga to Rabanal (19 km)
Day 4 Rabanal to Molinasaca (25km)
Day 5 Molinasaca to Villafranca (30km)
Day 6 rest day
Day 7 to O'Cebrerio (28km)
Etc till we arrive in Santiago de Compostela.
Would love to have the time to go slower, stop when we want/need
but can't be done.
Villafranca to O Cebreiro is a piece of cake, a very hard piece of cake. The road option from Villafranca is a long but not so steep an incline up to Trabadelo where I have stopped before. (noticed a new albergue there called SUSI run by an Australian girl). From there up to Herrerios is quite easy. Up to La Faba nearly killed me, boy was it tough. FRom La Faba to O Cebreiro is tough but not as tough as the first part to La Faba. Last camino I missed the trail at Laguna so followed the road up to O Cebreiro and it was not as hard as the trail. Bear in mind though, you are getting advice from a 68 year old so younger pilgrims will find it easier than I did. Cant really help with the options out of Villafranca. My attitude is that there are enough hills you cant avoid without taking ones you dont have toMolinaseca to Villafranca Del Bierzo
Villafranca to O Cebriero
Both of these are over 15 miles. How hard are they?
And has anyone taken the alt route from Villafranca called the Pradela? It's listed as an alternative to the regular or the Dragonte in Brierly and it sounds nice. If you have taken this, how hard is it?
We stayed at FRADE in O'Cebreiro and it was so nice. It was a beautiful stone building, it felt like a private home and was a perfect stop for us.I did Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro, and it was a fairly difficult day. In my notes I show 18.6 miles - and it's a steep uphill for quite a bit of it. I wouldn't stop at O Cebreiro again, because it was the only albergue I stayed at that I wouldn't stay at again. I would spend the night at La Faba instead.
And I walked from Ponferrada to Villafranca, so a bit shorter.
It seems like O Cebreiro would be a great place to splurge on a private room somewhere.We stayed at FRADE in O'Cebreiro and it was so nice. It was a beautiful stone building, it felt like a private home and was a perfect stop for us.
@Eve Alexandra - if you don't have a guidebook or one without elevation profiles, it could be worth looking at the simple one-sheet printable CF planner for an overview of the ups and downs along the way, making it easier to put more kms in on the flat and fewer in the hills. And @trecile - O Ceb is definitely a good place to splash out for a private room and see the sun go down and up again over the village.
O Cebreiro in sunshine, rain, or snow it is for me always a most special place.
This is another mystic and mythic stop on the Camino. During the middle ages due to the strong faith of one simple parishioner the wine and bread of the mass are said to have truly changed into Christ's blood and flesh. The church became famous and royalty sent priceless gifts. Today this small church is kept immaculate; it and the tiny village form a protected historic site.
Be sure to stop at the tomb of Elias Valinas Sampedro, the local priest who late last century revitalized the ideas of the camino with its network of supporting albergues and even painted the now famous first yellow arrows which mark our way. Read more about him and O Cebreiro in this Spanish link.
...Never underestimate the strength of personal conviction!
Molinaseca to Villafranca Del Bierzo
Villafranca to O Cebriero
Both of these are over 15 miles. How hard are they?
And has anyone taken the alt route from Villafranca called the Pradela? It's listed as an alternative to the regular or the Dragonte in Brierly and it sounds nice. If you have taken this, how hard is it?
It's because of the miracle that I'm planning on stopping overnight in O Ceb. I really want to go to mass here. I am waffling between staying at the mun. albergue or treating myself to the hotel that is apparently right next door to the parish. Huge difference in cost. But I also want to be close to the church.
I envy you your future first-time visit to O Cebreiro!
Be sure to check out the comments on O Cebreiro spots in these two earlier Forum threads on accommodation and hostels-hotels.
Adjacent to the church the original pilgrim refuge which was later called the San Giraldo de Aurillac is now the Hotel Cebreiro. This is run by the family of the late Don Elias Valina Sampedro.
The Valina family also run a separate bar/restaurant next to the church and serve a very good menu de dia. Above that bar are additional guest rooms with baths. ...2004 on my first camino I was VERY ill when staggering up to O Cebreiro and into their bar. Luckily a room was available and I happily spent two nights in clean, cozy HEATED comfort. What bliss!
Good luck with your plans and Buen camino
I wish I had thought of this earlier but there are formulas that give an approximation of how much time to add to a walk to account for the extra effort needed for climbs and steep downhills. Brierley's guide has the following for the Villafranca to O'Cebreiro stage:Molinaseca to Villafranca Del Bierzo
Villafranca to O Cebriero
Both of these are over 15 miles. How hard are they?
I wish I had thought of this earlier but there are formulas that give an approximation of how much time to add to a walk to account for the extra effort needed for climbs and steep downhills. Brierley's guide has the following for the Villafranca to O'Cebreiro stage:
For the route along the highway he has a distance of 28.9 km with an equivalent distance of 33.4 km and this means that it will take about 16% longer than the time it would take you to do 28.9 km of level walking. At a non-leisurely walking speed of 5 kph this amounts to 5 hours and 47 minutes versus 6 hours and 41 minutes.
If using the Pradela route he has a distance of 30.1 km with an equivalent distance of 36.1 km and this means that it will take about 20% longer than the time it would take you to do 30.1 km of level walking. At a non-leisurely walking speed of 5 kph this amounts to 6 hours and 1 minute versus 7 hours and 13 minutes.
Whatever path you take and how long it takes you have a buen camino.
When I visited last May, that Hotel seemed to be the only place in town that had WIFI, if that's important to you. In fact, no one would give me the Hotel's WIFI password until after I'd spent €40 at the local store (I was staying st a different place)!Thank you! Great threads to read through. I think I may just splurge on Hotel Cebriero.
When I visited last May, that Hotel seemed to be the only place in town that had WIFI, if that's important to you. In fact, no one would give me the Hotel's WIFI password until after I'd spent €40 at the local store (I was staying st a different place)!
Everything is close in O'Cebreiro which is a lovely little village but if wifi is important then what a fantastic reason to treat yourself to a little luxury.It's because of the miracle that I'm planning on stopping overnight in O Ceb. I really want to go to mass here. I am waffling between staying at the mun. albergue or treating myself to the hotel that is apparently right next door to the parish. Huge difference in cost. But I also want to be close to the church.
She posted quite often on the Camigas page on Facebook, and it sounds like she had a wonderful time, with plenty of spring (read wildly variable) weather.How did your camino go, @Eve Alexandra? I don't see any posts from you since you went (unless I've missed something, as I was away too) and am wondering how you found it.
Good to hear. Thanks!She posted quite often on the Camigas page on Facebook, and it sounds like she had a wonderful time, with plenty of spring (read wildly variable) weather.
No way will you get one definitive opinion on the difficulty of any section of the Camino.
I recommend just getting there, start walking and then forming your own opinions.
ultreia
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