- Time of past OR future Camino
- Ciudad Real to Medina Del Campo - Sep 2023
A lot greener than I expected actually. I passed through Astorga earlier today and staying at Las Aguedas in Murias de Rechivaldo feel that the Camino is entering a new phase.
I left Carrión de los Condes at 6am on Thursday which feels like much more than four days ago. As far as the food truck at half way the day was cool and idyllic and although the second half was sunny I completed the second half of the 17km without formal infrastructure and ready for cold drinks and ice cream at Calzadilla de la Cueza which as you can tell from this reference is open. I continued on to Terradillos de los Templarios. Some of our group stayed in Ledigos so at least one albergue is-open there. I didn’t go into the village as I took the field route. I stayed at the immorally named Albergue Jacques de Malay for ten Euros. For the first time I had a sense of what the Camino Frances is lIke in a normal year with upwards of 20 people creating a convivial atmosphere including one group who were intent on raising the bar profits.
On the way at 6am again the following morning. Everywhere was closed to Sahagún bu I know at least one Peregrinos stayed at San Nicholas so it may just have been the early hour. In Sahagún I breakfasted on tortilla and refreshed my water supply at the fountain in the square and set out on my own for Bercianos. The way was mainly along an old road near the main highway but In shade as the path was lined with trees. Hubris growing I passed the closed La Perla Hostal on the way in, declined the possibility of the open Bercianos 1900 and after a during at the El Sueve bar at the end of the village headed off to El Burgo Ranero with the temperature rising. At the time I didn’t realise El Sueve is also a Hostal so I can’t tell you if that was open. Seven km on I reached El Burgo baking in the full glory of the August sun next to the higheay. I branched off the Main Street which had a real spaghetti western feeling in the heat and found two open bars with the option of rooms albeit it seemed expensive. At this stage I can no longer account for the workings of my brain. I think it was something along the lines of - it’s 14 km to Reliegos, it’s 2.30 pm, 36 degrees, I have two litres of water and I’m wearing sunglasses, hit it. I got to Reliegos three hours later and although not quite on the limit I had more sun than was wise and my legs were telling me that 44km was too far for one day. I had at least booked ahead from El Burgo and had a private room at Albergue Vive Tu Camino for 40 Euros. I think I was the only guest. It was absolutely fine got the money. I can tell you nothing about Reliegos as I dined on chorizo, melted mozzarella and three day old bread in the albergue garden and went to bed.
My reward the next day was a relatively short 24 km into Leon. There seemed to be plenty of open bars and accommodation on the way. I had a six Euro (!) breakfast along the way which was good if exorbitant and stopped for my last break at Albergue la Torre in Arcahueja. It is 100m off the camino and symbolised what the pandemic has done to businesses on the way. At 11am I was the only customer and anyone walking this year is unlikely to stop this close to León. It was a nice friendly bar so stop for a drink and a sello if you are passing.
I arrived at León cathedral and sat in a bar opposite admiring it and waiting to catch up with someone who I stayed in the same Hostal with in St Jean and who was now taking a rest day in León. I really felt the previous day in my legs and it felt like too much effort to walk the 100m to my hotel (Hotel Spa Paris - 49 Euros. Adequate but unremarkable). After a siesta I visited the cathedral before eating Thai red curry at Kamado on Calle De Paso. Last drink on the square then off to bed.
I had heard much about Burgos cathedral before and was rather underwhelmed by the reality. León on the other hand blew me away. As a Northumbrian, Durham will always be the best cathedral for me but there is now lurking In the back of my mind an image of soaring gothic perfection and gentle evening light filtering through countless panels of stained glass.
A lie in and a seven am start saw me catch another Peregrinos I know towards the end of Leon. At the split we consulted and decided to take the scenic southern route although it was longer, as we expected there to be accommodation at Villarreal de Mazarife. The walk there was fine and I would like to record that at 11.48 am I crested a rise in the road and saw for the first time the outline of mountains on the Western horizon. The excitement died when we got too the village and found both the Albergue de Jesus and Albergue Tiopepe closed. The latter was offering rooms for 60 Euros. We didn’t check this Albergue San Anton de Padua on the way in so this may be open. I think the name put me off. We phonedd ahead to the Albergue Santa Lucia in Villavante but that was shut. Time for my favourite activity again a 14 km hike in the afternoon sun. The first 7 km were on a dead straightroad with no shade. It was a Sunday so thebar was shut in Villavsnte. We reached Hospital de Orbigo and stayed at Casa de los Hidalgos which at 12 € (learn something on my phone every day - today it is how to find the € symbol) was the best accommodation so far. Excellent pilgrim menu at Los Angeles restaurant. Hospital de Orbigo seems a perfect Camino town.
Walked the morning aware of the mountains as they grow closer. There was a little donation pilgrim oasis about half way to Astorga where I ate water melon and at least one Peregrinos decided to finish his walk early. The walk into Astorga is messy but Burgos seems to get all the flak. Ate lunch and pushed on. The cathedral looks nice but I am not a Gaudi enthusiast. Today’s afternoon walk was only 5km so I arrived telatively unfrazzled. A vegetarian feast is promised for tonight and the albergue is a little slice of heaven on the Camino.
The mountains and Galicia beckon.
I left Carrión de los Condes at 6am on Thursday which feels like much more than four days ago. As far as the food truck at half way the day was cool and idyllic and although the second half was sunny I completed the second half of the 17km without formal infrastructure and ready for cold drinks and ice cream at Calzadilla de la Cueza which as you can tell from this reference is open. I continued on to Terradillos de los Templarios. Some of our group stayed in Ledigos so at least one albergue is-open there. I didn’t go into the village as I took the field route. I stayed at the immorally named Albergue Jacques de Malay for ten Euros. For the first time I had a sense of what the Camino Frances is lIke in a normal year with upwards of 20 people creating a convivial atmosphere including one group who were intent on raising the bar profits.
On the way at 6am again the following morning. Everywhere was closed to Sahagún bu I know at least one Peregrinos stayed at San Nicholas so it may just have been the early hour. In Sahagún I breakfasted on tortilla and refreshed my water supply at the fountain in the square and set out on my own for Bercianos. The way was mainly along an old road near the main highway but In shade as the path was lined with trees. Hubris growing I passed the closed La Perla Hostal on the way in, declined the possibility of the open Bercianos 1900 and after a during at the El Sueve bar at the end of the village headed off to El Burgo Ranero with the temperature rising. At the time I didn’t realise El Sueve is also a Hostal so I can’t tell you if that was open. Seven km on I reached El Burgo baking in the full glory of the August sun next to the higheay. I branched off the Main Street which had a real spaghetti western feeling in the heat and found two open bars with the option of rooms albeit it seemed expensive. At this stage I can no longer account for the workings of my brain. I think it was something along the lines of - it’s 14 km to Reliegos, it’s 2.30 pm, 36 degrees, I have two litres of water and I’m wearing sunglasses, hit it. I got to Reliegos three hours later and although not quite on the limit I had more sun than was wise and my legs were telling me that 44km was too far for one day. I had at least booked ahead from El Burgo and had a private room at Albergue Vive Tu Camino for 40 Euros. I think I was the only guest. It was absolutely fine got the money. I can tell you nothing about Reliegos as I dined on chorizo, melted mozzarella and three day old bread in the albergue garden and went to bed.
My reward the next day was a relatively short 24 km into Leon. There seemed to be plenty of open bars and accommodation on the way. I had a six Euro (!) breakfast along the way which was good if exorbitant and stopped for my last break at Albergue la Torre in Arcahueja. It is 100m off the camino and symbolised what the pandemic has done to businesses on the way. At 11am I was the only customer and anyone walking this year is unlikely to stop this close to León. It was a nice friendly bar so stop for a drink and a sello if you are passing.
I arrived at León cathedral and sat in a bar opposite admiring it and waiting to catch up with someone who I stayed in the same Hostal with in St Jean and who was now taking a rest day in León. I really felt the previous day in my legs and it felt like too much effort to walk the 100m to my hotel (Hotel Spa Paris - 49 Euros. Adequate but unremarkable). After a siesta I visited the cathedral before eating Thai red curry at Kamado on Calle De Paso. Last drink on the square then off to bed.
I had heard much about Burgos cathedral before and was rather underwhelmed by the reality. León on the other hand blew me away. As a Northumbrian, Durham will always be the best cathedral for me but there is now lurking In the back of my mind an image of soaring gothic perfection and gentle evening light filtering through countless panels of stained glass.
A lie in and a seven am start saw me catch another Peregrinos I know towards the end of Leon. At the split we consulted and decided to take the scenic southern route although it was longer, as we expected there to be accommodation at Villarreal de Mazarife. The walk there was fine and I would like to record that at 11.48 am I crested a rise in the road and saw for the first time the outline of mountains on the Western horizon. The excitement died when we got too the village and found both the Albergue de Jesus and Albergue Tiopepe closed. The latter was offering rooms for 60 Euros. We didn’t check this Albergue San Anton de Padua on the way in so this may be open. I think the name put me off. We phonedd ahead to the Albergue Santa Lucia in Villavante but that was shut. Time for my favourite activity again a 14 km hike in the afternoon sun. The first 7 km were on a dead straightroad with no shade. It was a Sunday so thebar was shut in Villavsnte. We reached Hospital de Orbigo and stayed at Casa de los Hidalgos which at 12 € (learn something on my phone every day - today it is how to find the € symbol) was the best accommodation so far. Excellent pilgrim menu at Los Angeles restaurant. Hospital de Orbigo seems a perfect Camino town.
Walked the morning aware of the mountains as they grow closer. There was a little donation pilgrim oasis about half way to Astorga where I ate water melon and at least one Peregrinos decided to finish his walk early. The walk into Astorga is messy but Burgos seems to get all the flak. Ate lunch and pushed on. The cathedral looks nice but I am not a Gaudi enthusiast. Today’s afternoon walk was only 5km so I arrived telatively unfrazzled. A vegetarian feast is promised for tonight and the albergue is a little slice of heaven on the Camino.
The mountains and Galicia beckon.
