On my three Primitivo Caminos I did the Hospitales route twice and via Pola de Allande once. I love the Hospitales and it is one of my favourite day long walks of any Camino. My second time on it I watched for almost 1/2 hour a wild horse giving birth about 20 feet off the trail, just past the hospital ruins.
My last Primitivo visit I decided to do the Pola de Allande variant as I heard good things about it. It was very nice, a fairly easy walk along the river (up to the town) and quiet (most pilgrims go the Hospitales) The town of PdA is fine (I wouldn't call it amazing IMHO and wouldn't make that the reason to go that route). The walk up the mountain from there was pretty arduous though and quite frankly the Hospitales was much easier. Weather permitting it is the Hospitales every time.
If you want to see Pola I would walk the Hospitales to Berducedo and then take the shuttle bus back to PdA and stay at the Albergue there. Then take the shuttle back to Berducedo the next day.
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