Hiking in May - my experience

[TMcA]

This is a partial trip report in which I will include my thoughts on: 1) why reservations are necessary during the peak months of May and September, 2) taking into account La Transhumance and the June Trail en Aubrac running competition; and 3) the weather on the Aubrac plateau in May.


I left Aumont Aubrac on May 20. Saw four other hikers leaving ahead of me. After a 10 minute detour into town, I headed out. Saw no one for two hours. Got lost. My French is fairly good, so I stopped a motorist and asked for directions. Reply in French, "Straight ahead, then cross the bridge". Crossed the bridge, but no markings in sight. A group of French cyclists appeared and one had a smart phone with the IGN maps. Just another half kilometer and I regained the GR65. Walked another hour or so and saw not a single hiker. At an intersection, the trail markings were again confusing because, I think, the "old route" was marked with a clamshell and the new route with the white over red balisage. Cogitated for a few minutes and followed the latter. Came upon a group of ten French hikers. They were headed for the same gite in Finieyrols (Les Gentianes) and I walked with them for the next hour or two. One woman I spoke with had studied Japanese and had friends in Japan and we shared this same connection.

At dinner that night I sat with this group. To my left was another French group of seven or eight hikers. Across from me, at the next table, was yet another group of about six women hikers. I had made a reservation by email with the gite and now I saw why reservations were necessary or at least advisable in May....the three French groups that I knew of had taken up twenty-three or so spaces. I was also told September is also a very popular (busy) month.

As the wine flowed, I got involved with a guy who started telling me he was in Paris during the 1968 protests. I replied that I had been there, too. Then the guy said, "Oh yes, now I remember...you were at the barricade, a molotov cocktail in your hand..." Very humorous and I walked a bit with this group the next day.

I had a reservation for Wednesday night but none for the next two nights. I had a hunch that I might need them because I had noted, on Plan 11 of my MMDD, a little tiny "Attention" line/warning that reservations for the Aubrac area for certain days in May and June need to be made well in advance because of "La Transhumance" and a "marathon". Thankfully, Karine from Les Giantianes found me a place in Nasbinals and the tourist office there got me a spot in Saint Chely. When I arrived in Aumont, I became fully aware of the problem - it's tiny and I was told 15,000 people come for La Transhumance. There's not nearly enough room in Aumont and the surrounding towns to accommodate all of these visitors. The sites for these two events are: http://www.transhumance.info/ and http://www.courirenaubrac.com/

I did see a bit of the Transhumance as I walked into Saint Come-d'Olt. Cows are decorated with flowers and are herded along by farmers, some of whom follow in traditional wagons. This festival celebrates the movement of the herds up onto the higher elevations of the Aubrac plateau.

Finally, the weather. After a last minute check of the forecast for the Aubrac regions, I decided the forecasted temperatures did not warrant gloves, my beanie, or other cold weather gear. I did have my trusty Prima-Loft sweater, tights, and other gear to layer against the cold, if needed. The temperatures were mild, tho not warm. As I crossed the higher portions of the plateau the winds were fierce. By "fierce", I mean that they almost blew me off the trail...almost blew me over. But they were south winds, and I just put my rain jacket on to keep me a little warmer. On Friday night, May 23, on the eve of La Transhumance, it started raining in Saint Chely. But it snowed that night on the Aubrac plateau. Just an inch or two. But I was told that on the Friday before the event in 2013 the higher elevations received about five inches of snow. Saturday was a beautiful day and by 10 AM everyone was hiking in short sleeves. Bottom line: the weather is quite variable as you traverse the higher elevations of the Aubrac plateau. If cold temperatures are forecasted for that area, I would pack gloves and a beanie and whatever else you might need to stay warm and comfortable.

 

[Hal]

I plan to walk in may, so your info is invaluable. Many thanks!

 

[KiwiNomad06]

Great account TMcA- thank you. I've walked across the Aubrac Plateau twice in spring- first time I nearly got hypothermia in the wet, and the second time I walked in a t-shirt with a temperature that was nearly 30C. I think anyone who walks the first ten days from Le Puy needs to check altitude graphs, and they'll find quite a bit of it hovers above 1000m. Alpine conditions can happen at that altitude any time really. I'm attaching a graph I got via the Godesalco site- a very useful one- showing the altitude changes from Le Puy to St Chely. Once you reach St Chely the altitude doesn't go quite so high again, though it does still go up and down.

Margaret

 

[Hal]

Gee, that walk from Montrisol to Le Vernet looks like fun.

 

[Kanga]

Gee, that walk from Montrisol to Le Vernet looks like fun.

Yes but lovely and quite do-able. I found the walk down into Monistrol harder - rocky and steep.

 

[KiwiNomad06]

Yes but lovely and quite do-able. I found the walk down into Monistrol harder - rocky and steep.

Yes, me too. Those rocks weren't made for short legs!
The ascent from Monistrol is quite steep in places, but if you just take it at your own pace you reach the top before you are expecting to. And there are some great views and forest along the way.
Margaret

 

[Kitsambler]

Agreed! The descent into Monistrol is a real knee-buster. Very treacherous if there is any damp at all; those rocks are really slippery.

 

[Hal]

Oh, those slippery rocks going downhill! It's the balance of getting footwear appropriate mostly for walking on bitumen roads but also jagged stones, slippery rocks, and ankle high streams, and that's just on training walks here in Sydney!

I have variously used Keen closed toe sandals (good but 3 pairs have fallen apart on cue after 5 weeks plus there's the wet feet), Crocs boat shoes (incredibly comfortable for all kinds of surfaces and my feet love them, though there's the foot pong, they feel weird with socks and they stretch a fair bit so there have been several stumbles worthy of Mr Bean), several pairs of sneakers (they are great for running on bitumen but, well, a bitch for walking. Very painful feet after) and Vibram 5-fingers (actually pretty fantastic but if I did do the barefoot thing would want to alternate them with a more traditional shoe). I am partial to Vibram soles, but a pair of long-extinct New Balance shoes brings back great memories.

I am likely walking from early May to late June(/early July?) from Le Puy - Santiago, which (likely) means a little rain at some point on the Le Puy portion. I don't think Goretex lined boots would be appropriate (I learned my lesson from putting slightly snow dampened fingers into my Gore-tex gloves and having them not dry despite 2 nights over a heater when skiing in my childhood) plus I have hot and sweaty feet. Because of my sweaty feet and my ankle rolling, I am basically considering mid trail sneakers, low boots, or higher hiking shoes.

TL;DR I'm pondering multi-season footwear.

What did you good people wear?
Cheers

 

[Kanga]

On the Le Puy in early May and in September I wore lightweight Asics runners. We had some freezing weather with sleety rain and wind in May when my feet got cold and wet but it was only a couple of days. The advantage of the runners in that situation is that they walk dry. The rest of the time they were fine.

 

[Hal]

Most basic question ever - do you just change socks somewhere sheltered once the runners have become reasonably dry?

 

[sharon w]

Hi Hal,
I wore Aku boots in May, 2012. It was very wet and muddy and the boots were great.
Sharon

 

[paulstmalo]

The weather we had last year (2013) in May and beginning of June warranted largely the Gore-Tex liner in my North Face boots. No fun walking with wet socks and feet however quickly they may dry.
We were caught in such a storm between St Privat and Monistrol that we did the last 5kms on the road. Agree the climb up to the grotte at 8 in the morning is hard, but the views over the river and town are well worth it.

 

[Kanga]

Most basic question ever - do you just change socks somewhere sheltered once the runners have become reasonably dry?

Yes, if I think it has fined up. I take an extra pair for that reason. My socks do finish up an interesting colour if there is a lot if mud. The same with the shoes. It is critical to have a really waterproof pack (mine is). If I was walking in winter I might wear something different but in spring, summer and autumn they have worked for me. I tried leather shoes with a water repellent coating last Camino because it was very early spring; never again. As well as being heavy and hot they just took forever to dry.

 

[Kanga]

On the subject of waterproof boots - this is a very useful article:

http://andrewskurka.com/2012/minimizing-the-effects-and-aftermath-of-wet-feet/

 

[Thornley]

This is a partial trip report in which I will include my thoughts on: 1) why reservations are necessary during the peak months of May and September, 2) taking into account La Transhumance and the June Trail en Aubrac running competition; and 3) the weather on the Aubrac plateau in May.


I left Aumont Aubrac on May 20. Saw four other hikers leaving ahead of me. After a 10 minute detour into town, I headed out. Saw no one for two hours. Got lost. My French is fairly good, so I stopped a motorist and asked for directions. Reply in French, "Straight ahead, then cross the bridge". Crossed the bridge, but no markings in sight. A group of French cyclists appeared and one had a smart phone with the IGN maps. Just another half kilometer and I regained the GR65. Walked another hour or so and saw not a single hiker. At an intersection, the trail markings were again confusing because, I think, the "old route" was marked with a clamshell and the new route with the white over red balisage. Cogitated for a few minutes and followed the latter. Came upon a group of ten French hikers. They were headed for the same gite in Finieyrols (Les Gentianes) and I walked with them for the next hour or two. One woman I spoke with had studied Japanese and had friends in Japan and we shared this same connection.

At dinner that night I sat with this group. To my left was another French group of seven or eight hikers. Across from me, at the next table, was yet another group of about six women hikers. I had made a reservation by email with the gite and now I saw why reservations were necessary or at least advisable in May....the three French groups that I knew of had taken up twenty-three or so spaces. I was also told September is also a very popular (busy) month.

As the wine flowed, I got involved with a guy who started telling me he was in Paris during the 1968 protests. I replied that I had been there, too. Then the guy said, "Oh yes, now I remember...you were at the barricade, a molotov cocktail in your hand..." Very humorous and I walked a bit with this group the next day.

I had a reservation for Wednesday night but none for the next two nights. I had a hunch that I might need them because I had noted, on Plan 11 of my MMDD, a little tiny "Attention" line/warning that reservations for the Aubrac area for certain days in May and June need to be made well in advance because of "La Transhumance" and a "marathon". Thankfully, Karine from Les Giantianes found me a place in Nasbinals and the tourist office there got me a spot in Saint Chely. When I arrived in Aumont, I became fully aware of the problem - it's tiny and I was told 15,000 people come for La Transhumance. There's not nearly enough room in Aumont and the surrounding towns to accommodate all of these visitors. The sites for these two events are: http://www.transhumance.info/ and http://www.courirenaubrac.com/

I did see a bit of the Transhumance as I walked into Saint Come-d'Olt. Cows are decorated with flowers and are herded along by farmers, some of whom follow in traditional wagons. This festival celebrates the movement of the herds up onto the higher elevations of the Aubrac plateau.

Finally, the weather. After a last minute check of the forecast for the Aubrac regions, I decided the forecasted temperatures did not warrant gloves, my beanie, or other cold weather gear. I did have my trusty Prima-Loft sweater, tights, and other gear to layer against the cold, if needed. The temperatures were mild, tho not warm. As I crossed the higher portions of the plateau the winds were fierce. By "fierce", I mean that they almost blew me off the trail...almost blew me over. But they were south winds, and I just put my rain jacket on to keep me a little warmer. On Friday night, May 23, on the eve of La Transhumance, it started raining in Saint Chely. But it snowed that night on the Aubrac plateau. Just an inch or two. But I was told that on the Friday before the event in 2013 the higher elevations received about five inches of snow. Saturday was a beautiful day and by 10 AM everyone was hiking in short sleeves. Bottom line: the weather is quite variable as you traverse the higher elevations of the Aubrac plateau. If cold temperatures are forecasted for that area, I would pack gloves and a beanie and whatever else you might need to stay warm and comfortable.

You looked all right in Bach Tom,
Hope the Cele valley via Concots was what you wished.
Walk into Cahors was hard on the knees , especially being a 28km day.
Hope the wife's knees are OK
Best wishes and good health
David and Angela

 

[neverlost4good]

This is a partial trip report in which I will include my thoughts on: 1) why reservations are necessary during the peak months of May and September, 2) taking into account La Transhumance and the June Trail en Aubrac running competition; and 3) the weather on the Aubrac plateau in May.


I left Aumont Aubrac on May 20. Saw four other hikers leaving ahead of me. After a 10 minute detour into town, I headed out. Saw no one for two hours. Got lost. My French is fairly good, so I stopped a motorist and asked for directions. Reply in French, "Straight ahead, then cross the bridge". Crossed the bridge, but no markings in sight. A group of French cyclists appeared and one had a smart phone with the IGN maps. Just another half kilometer and I regained the GR65. Walked another hour or so and saw not a single hiker. At an intersection, the trail markings were again confusing because, I think, the "old route" was marked with a clamshell and the new route with the white over red balisage. Cogitated for a few minutes and followed the latter. Came upon a group of ten French hikers. They were headed for the same gite in Finieyrols (Les Gentianes) and I walked with them for the next hour or two. One woman I spoke with had studied Japanese and had friends in Japan and we shared this same connection.

At dinner that night I sat with this group. To my left was another French group of seven or eight hikers. Across from me, at the next table, was yet another group of about six women hikers. I had made a reservation by email with the gite and now I saw why reservations were necessary or at least advisable in May....the three French groups that I knew of had taken up twenty-three or so spaces. I was also told September is also a very popular (busy) month.

As the wine flowed, I got involved with a guy who started telling me he was in Paris during the 1968 protests. I replied that I had been there, too. Then the guy said, "Oh yes, now I remember...you were at the barricade, a molotov cocktail in your hand..." Very humorous and I walked a bit with this group the next day.

I had a reservation for Wednesday night but none for the next two nights. I had a hunch that I might need them because I had noted, on Plan 11 of my MMDD, a little tiny "Attention" line/warning that reservations for the Aubrac area for certain days in May and June need to be made well in advance because of "La Transhumance" and a "marathon". Thankfully, Karine from Les Giantianes found me a place in Nasbinals and the tourist office there got me a spot in Saint Chely. When I arrived in Aumont, I became fully aware of the problem - it's tiny and I was told 15,000 people come for La Transhumance. There's not nearly enough room in Aumont and the surrounding towns to accommodate all of these visitors. The sites for these two events are: http://www.transhumance.info/ and http://www.courirenaubrac.com/

I did see a bit of the Transhumance as I walked into Saint Come-d'Olt. Cows are decorated with flowers and are herded along by farmers, some of whom follow in traditional wagons. This festival celebrates the movement of the herds up onto the higher elevations of the Aubrac plateau.

Finally, the weather. After a last minute check of the forecast for the Aubrac regions, I decided the forecasted temperatures did not warrant gloves, my beanie, or other cold weather gear. I did have my trusty Prima-Loft sweater, tights, and other gear to layer against the cold, if needed. The temperatures were mild, tho not warm. As I crossed the higher portions of the plateau the winds were fierce. By "fierce", I mean that they almost blew me off the trail...almost blew me over. But they were south winds, and I just put my rain jacket on to keep me a little warmer. On Friday night, May 23, on the eve of La Transhumance, it started raining in Saint Chely. But it snowed that night on the Aubrac plateau. Just an inch or two. But I was told that on the Friday before the event in 2013 the higher elevations received about five inches of snow. Saturday was a beautiful day and by 10 AM everyone was hiking in short sleeves. Bottom line: the weather is quite variable as you traverse the higher elevations of the Aubrac plateau. If cold temperatures are forecasted for that area, I would pack gloves and a beanie and whatever else you might need to stay warm and comfortable.