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The camino wends its way, passing by meadows and farms, passing through villages and hamlets. There are forests of eucalyptus, cottages of stone and slate. There are tall crucifixes marking the way, no two quite the same. No-one fails to notice the rural tranquility, but not everyone will know of the abundance of hill-forts (castros) that are the archaeological patrimony of Galicia. The route tends to wind its way in amongst them. These centuries-long abandoned fortifications became the stuff of folk legend and rumour. Ghosts. Witches. Treasure, hoards of gold, buried in secret, lay hidden waiting to be found by anyone with the courage (and the key) to venture onto those haunted hilltops. In the Middle Ages one could buy books of spells and incantations, the precise use of which would force the spirits to reveal where the loot was buried. Archaeology has carried whatever was left to the museums.
Yet, even today, one can still climb a hill and make a discovery. Those venturing towards the top of Monte Gozo have their eyes fixed on the Pope's monument. Then they look away in search of the two pilgrims on their promontory, their eyes lit up with the joy of seeing Compostela's cathedral for the first time. Anyone too tired to walk into town may seek a bed in the massive albergue sponsored by the xunta, its many bunkhouses spread out beneath the hill sadly resembling a concentration camp. Four hundred beds! Inevitably it steals focus from a little treasure tucked away on the other side of the hill.
Make a right when coming down from the statue of the two pilgrims and go back up the road. Or, make a left as you approach the brow of Monte Gozo's hill, before arriving at the famous monument. Either way, you will come across an unprepossessing sight/site. But don't be shy, go in! This is a cultural centre. It is also the near mythical (at least on my trek down the CF, in conversation with my Polish companion) POLISH ALBERGUE. The stamp in my credencial reads, "Centro Europeo de Peregrinacion Juan Pablo II, Monte del Gozo". The Polish pope, remember. The albergue, when we visited, had a mere 20+ visitors; it's greatest intake was 7,000! There are dorm rooms and private rooms. There is a large dining room with restaurant. There is a beautiful secluded garden in which to rest, meditate, sunbathe, or simply to hang out your washing. There is a chapel for quiet times, services, private prayer. There is a covered patio for sitting out when it rains; dispensing machines for snacks, and other amenities.
It is a quiet little gem, a secluded, almost secret treasure. But why? Because of its location, tucked beneath the brow of the hill, on the wrong side of Monte Gozo? Yes, in part. Another reason might be that the xunta doesn't want it to draw people away from their giant complex further down the hill. Thus, advertising of the Polish albergue is (allegedly) minimised, even online it was hard for my buddy to find relevant info.
But think about it. Why not stay there, and enter Santiago fresh the next morning. You can have dinner, then walk up to the monument/s and watch the sunset over Santiago. The albergue is very tranquil, far from the roads, so you'll probably sleep well. You might even get the chance to eat something quasi-Polish on the pilgrim menu. When we stayed, there was a Polish lady who had flown into Santiago on a cheap flight simply for the pleasure of hanging out at this albergue; that's how chilled this place is, how agreeable a spot for a night or two's rest.
Anyway, here ends my friendly pitch for the Polish albergue. If you've read the entire OP, thank you for your patience, and I hope you keep it in mind when you climb the last hill before Santiago. Sanctuary is close at hand.
Ultreia.
Philippum
Yet, even today, one can still climb a hill and make a discovery. Those venturing towards the top of Monte Gozo have their eyes fixed on the Pope's monument. Then they look away in search of the two pilgrims on their promontory, their eyes lit up with the joy of seeing Compostela's cathedral for the first time. Anyone too tired to walk into town may seek a bed in the massive albergue sponsored by the xunta, its many bunkhouses spread out beneath the hill sadly resembling a concentration camp. Four hundred beds! Inevitably it steals focus from a little treasure tucked away on the other side of the hill.
Make a right when coming down from the statue of the two pilgrims and go back up the road. Or, make a left as you approach the brow of Monte Gozo's hill, before arriving at the famous monument. Either way, you will come across an unprepossessing sight/site. But don't be shy, go in! This is a cultural centre. It is also the near mythical (at least on my trek down the CF, in conversation with my Polish companion) POLISH ALBERGUE. The stamp in my credencial reads, "Centro Europeo de Peregrinacion Juan Pablo II, Monte del Gozo". The Polish pope, remember. The albergue, when we visited, had a mere 20+ visitors; it's greatest intake was 7,000! There are dorm rooms and private rooms. There is a large dining room with restaurant. There is a beautiful secluded garden in which to rest, meditate, sunbathe, or simply to hang out your washing. There is a chapel for quiet times, services, private prayer. There is a covered patio for sitting out when it rains; dispensing machines for snacks, and other amenities.
It is a quiet little gem, a secluded, almost secret treasure. But why? Because of its location, tucked beneath the brow of the hill, on the wrong side of Monte Gozo? Yes, in part. Another reason might be that the xunta doesn't want it to draw people away from their giant complex further down the hill. Thus, advertising of the Polish albergue is (allegedly) minimised, even online it was hard for my buddy to find relevant info.
But think about it. Why not stay there, and enter Santiago fresh the next morning. You can have dinner, then walk up to the monument/s and watch the sunset over Santiago. The albergue is very tranquil, far from the roads, so you'll probably sleep well. You might even get the chance to eat something quasi-Polish on the pilgrim menu. When we stayed, there was a Polish lady who had flown into Santiago on a cheap flight simply for the pleasure of hanging out at this albergue; that's how chilled this place is, how agreeable a spot for a night or two's rest.
Anyway, here ends my friendly pitch for the Polish albergue. If you've read the entire OP, thank you for your patience, and I hope you keep it in mind when you climb the last hill before Santiago. Sanctuary is close at hand.
Ultreia.
Philippum
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I'll follow your directions. 
