LIVE from the Camino Happy Penguin on the Camino San Salvador

[Former member 98118]

Hello from Poladura de la Tercia at 1250 m of altitude!
I continue my quest from Seville to Santiago after walking probably some 700 km over 3 weeks to Astorga.
You can find more details in this thread

This is where I turned east and walked one and half stage to Leon. Whether I did it unintentionally - well, I will leave it to your imagination and sense of humor...

So I have walked two stages of San Salvador out of 4 or 5 that make this Camino from Leon to Oviedo. First from Leon to La Robla and second from La Robla to Poladura de Tercia.



Even if San Salvador goes over 1600 m which is higher than the crossing from SJPP to Roncesvalles, I found the trail dry, snow free, and rather easy to walk (apart from challenge to your fitness level). I doubt it will be different today when I go through slightly higher pass. Pictire below is from yesterday (by my Strava)



You can find some pictures from that stage in San Salvador forum gallery

Some practical info.

Albergue in Cabanillas, 19 km from Leon, is closed (gronze says its open). Hospitalero probably moved to Leon for winter together with the key to albergue. I had to walk 9 km more to La Robla. Here at km 28 I found Pension Mundo which has rooms for pilgrims: 20 euro for single and 28 for double. Rooms are outdated but no reason to complain. The owner of the place (Susana) is superfriendly and helpful. I really appreciated warm place to sleep (heating goes off at night as in many cheap hostels in Spain)

Albergue in La Robla, in Buiza and Pajares are closed and nobody knows when they will reopen.
Albergue in Poladura de la Tercia is open and costs 9 euro. The Posada next door is closed and the owner says it doesn't make sense to open it due to very high prices of heating. Will open when heating is not needed - summer? So albergue is a must.

Albergue in Poladura has some heating but not at night. Clean blankets. Even if the Posada is closed, owner makes dinner for pilgrims (at 7 pm). But it's better to call ahead, I called from Buiza. Super tasty dinner for 10 euro.

Photo: your fear of heights will be tested on San Salvador. Don't forget trekking poles.


So I did 28 km from Leon to La Robla, then 26 km to Poladura, and today I want to go about 30 km to Campomanes where I found a room on booking for 27 euro (Senda del Huerna). Another pilgrim here goes to Pajares where she found a place for 25 euro (pension del Mirador). For me it is too close, 13 km - but difficult - from here (Poladura)

From Campomanes I will have rather flat 40 km to Oviedo. If the weather is good tomorrow I may do it in one go, if not, there is a place to sleep in Mieres for 20 euro (I've been told).

So anyone who wants to go for a 4-5 days Camino from Leon, doesn't suffer from vertigo and is not afraid of nearly vertical climbs or descents - the Camino San Salvador is passable and open!
Markings are very good - yellow arrows, official signs). But offline map like maps.me is helpful as many places have poor mobile coverage.
Also you can't call for a taxi from the places like you see below.



Buen Camino!

"Quien va a Santiago y no al Salvador, visita al criado pero no a su Señor"

Edited for spelling mistakes

 

[C clearly]

Great report!

 

[peregrina2000]

Love it. I had heard that the pensión crunch that others experienced last fall has eased now that the workers are no longer staying there in such great numbers. So La Robla and Pola de Gordón both have a couple of reasonable, pilgrim-friendly places to stay.

From Campomanes I will have rather flat 40 km to Oviedo.

Don’t look at Gronze’s profile if you want to save that thought — the three ups and downs are not like the mountains, but there is a lot of asphalt and they can be a challenge.

Hope your day from Poladura is magical, it’s one of my absolute favorite days of any camino I’ve walked. Looking forward to enjoying more pictures! Buen camino, Happy Penguin!

 

[VNwalking]

It looks like heaven.
Thanks for letting us tag along!

 

[Elle Bieling]

You may want to make note of the fact that if you are more tired/sore than you think from the downhill pounding, that there is a private albergue in Llanos de Somerón, called the Albergue Cascoxu, just a few steps west of the church, from the square. It is about an 18 Km day from Poladura, which doesn't sound like much (we usually do 30 km days comfortably), but you may change your mind when you get there.

We made it all the way to Campomanes, but regretted it. My one knee wasn't the same for weeks afterward. It is the stretch on the pavement, AFTER Llanos de Somerón that was the hardest, with the downhill pounding, even though I was using poles to distribute my weight.

We also stayed in the Hospedaje Senda del Huerna, and the owner was very friendly and accommodative. He allowed us to use his washer/dryer for no additional charge. The place is a bit old and shabby, but it was clean and comfortable! Buen Camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

My one knee wasn't the same for weeks afterward. It is the stretch on the pavement, AFTER Llanos de Somerón that was the hardest, with the downhill pounding,

There is an off-road alternative, just recently marked, called the route of Munisteriu (you can see it in Ender’s new guide). I walked it this past September and it was very tough, lots of jagged rock to climb up (nothing technical). It starts very shortly after leaving Llanos de Somerón and the hospitalero in the albergue can tell pilgrims all about it.

I’m not sure which I would go for if I am lucky enough to walk again, but I agree with your assessment that walking on the road is no fun.

 

[peregrina2000]

Albergue in Cabanillas, 19 km from Leon, is closed (gronze says its open).

Too late for you, Happy Penguin, but for others — the albergue in Cabanillas is open. I just got a WhatsApp to that effect from the hospitalero/a, but you must reserve ahead of time. Use WhatsApp with the phone number shown on Gronze.

Anyone staying there should know that there are no services, no food, no bar, so bring it from León. I know that some like @jpflavin1 were lucky to get a meal provided by the hospitalera, but you should’t assume you will have the same experience.

 

[Walli Walker]

Great report. Thank you so much.

 

[Former member 98118]

I uploaded 14 new photos to the San Salvador forum gallery

Hello from Campomanes, elevation 380 m above sea level. Let me start with my Strava record of the third stage of my San Salvador Camino from Poladura de la Tercia to Campomanes.


As you can see the drop from the highest point of my route to my present location is gargantuous (the word I learned from a movie). So indeed, I agree with @peregrina2000 that I walked probably the most beautiful stage of all the Caminos I know, but also I agree with @Elle Bieling that it was a bad idea to extend this stage all the way to Campomanes. Even if I walked 30 km, it felt like 50 km on Via de la Plata. It makes more sense to stop at Pajares and if someone feels like extending a stage, it would be better to do Pajares - Mieres. By the way the albergue in Llanos de Somerón, according to hospitalero from Poladura, is closed. That's why I didn't plan to stop there, also I totally liked the never ending road down from Llanos, I literally ran down those few km, just changed my trekking Keens to my light shoes I use at albergues.

This stage starting from Poladura all the way to San Miguel del Rio is a series of breathtaking views that can't be captured by a camera. You just need to see it, especially if the weather is nice like it was today.


I will add some practical tips in a separate post.

 

[Former member 98118]

The most important thing I'd like to talk about and warn prospective pilgrims is about 1,5 km stretch before and after Puerto de Pajares at 1378 m. This is a place where there are 2 bars and most pilgrims will probably go for a lunch or a coffee or just to sit down after exhausting hours of climbing and descending.

Puerto de Pajares - border between Leon and Asturias

Bar on the left.

Bar on the right.

The Camino, as far as I know doesn't pass near those bars, is going behind them. So I had to enter busy N-630 about 600 m before the pass (puerto) and walked to the bar, which was fine - broad shoulder.

But now is the tricky part. Knowing that pilgrims will go to those bars, someone came up with a crazy (at least to me) idea to make a very treachery and dangerous path traversing very steep slope below the N-630. This is not an official Camino. This is an attempt to bring pilgrims back to the Camino, and in my opinion, a very unfortunate one. I refused to walk that path connecting to the Camino, being just by myself. Instead I walked down N-630 for 800 meters where there are official Camino signs again. Walking on the busy N-630 is dangerous, you should be very cautious, certainly walk in single file, but my risk assessment tells me it is safer to walk the road for 10 minutes than go down that crazy path on the slope of the mountain.

Please don't consider what I wrote above as an advice, this is just my point of view, please make your own responsible decisions.

Stay safe and Buen Camino!

 

[Elle Bieling]

This has been discussed before, the stretch on the N-630 from the bars, whether to take the highway or the goat tracks to the west. I have done neither and glad I didn't have to make the choice, as we walked straight through without a stop.

You actually can go back along the N-630 and cut through on the north side of your "bar on the right" photo, the Bar Venta Casimiro and join the official route. There is actually a goat track that you could use.

However, back on the official route, the descent on the other side, after crossing into Galicia at the border at the ridge top and down to the N-630 is not great either, especially if there is ice/snow/mud. I have done this one, fortunately in perfect weather. If you look at my photos for this day, on my website, near the end of the page, you can see it, however the photos just don't give a great perception of how steep it is! It is truly steep! Finding a way to zig-zag down it, since the trail is so very dispersed through the section, is the only way to go!

Perhaps it is better than the casual goat tracks from the Parador (your "bar on the left"), but my guess is, that the best way in nasty weather most likely would be down the incredibly hazardous, curvy, N-630, full of trucks! None of the 3 possible ways, IMHO is for the faint of heart.

 

[Former member 98118]

However, back on the official route, the descent on the other side, after crossing into Galicia at the border at the ridge top and down to the N-630 is not great either

I am glad this topic has been discussed before because those goat tracks in bad weather can be very hazardous!

BTW into Asturias not Galicia

I found the official Camino that I picked up 800 m down from the bars well marked, it has not only Camino signs, but also red and white GR markings and also white and yellow markings. It is wide and safe, you can drive 4-wheel drive there, the only thing is, it goes down to San Miguel del Rio not Pajares. Since I didn't need to go to Pajares, it didn't matter to me. Great views on the way as well! On descent to San Miguel del Rio we lose 500+ meters of altitude.

Photo: Marked wide path to San Miguel del Rio.

I found also another solution if the weather is really bad, although it breaks the continuity of the Camino: while taking a rest in the bar 'on the right' just to find someone who will give us a ride to Pajares which is 5 km down the dangerous road to Asturias. Almost all that stop at the bar on the right are driving to Asturias while those who stop in 'Parador' are on the way to Leon.

 

[Former member 49149]

@Happy Penguin , thanks for your reports, and particularly for the photos. They remind me yes, of 2017 when I walked the Salvador, but they also remind me of the experience in my childhood of watching glorious scenery in the cinema. Most parents with a gang of children got free time on Saturdays when the eldest child led the others to "the pictures" and transported the audience to vast and beautiful different worlds!

 

[Corned Beef]

Why do penguins - happy or otherwise - head north? Is it a calling?

Looking forward to more pics. Buen Camino.

 

[peregrina2000]

This has been discussed before, the stretch on the N-630 from the bars, whether to take the highway or the goat tracks to the west.

Oh man, has it been discussed before. For those who are interested, try this thread or this one. @GunnarW and @SuannafromSweden were two of the most active participants but are no longer on the forum — I wonder if this discussion drove them away.

I have walked all three options at different times, and I agree with everyone who says none is great. I walked what you call the goat path on the left on my first Salvador in 2008. It must have eroded a LOT since then, because I am not a daring person nor do I love heights and on my first go-through it was fine. But when I came back several years later, there was no way I was going to walk it.

The path on national highway is hair-raising, but at least the trucks are coming slowly towards you since the gradient is so steep.

The path on the right behind the bars (Ender’s guide shows how to connect with it more directly from the bars, no need to totally backtrack) is also a challenge. The ascent is gradual and easy, but it’s one of those slightly rocky descents with no marked path and would be slippy-slidey in the rain.

I think that in bad weather, none of those options should be walked. Imagine walking towards the traffic with no shoulder with windy rainy conditions, it would be very dangerous. So I think Happy Penguin’s idea would be the best — if conditions are treacherous, go the the Venta Casimiro on the right and wait for someone who stops there to take you to the town of Pajares.

I’ve never stayed in Campomanes — you had a long day! Buen camino today.

If you love ancient architecture one of the most amazing old churches is on your route today. Santa Cristina de Lena has had a refurbishing and is open again post-Covid!

 

[peregrina2000]

By the way the albergue in Llanos de Somerón, according to hospitalero from Poladura, is closed.

Again, not for you, Happy Penguin, but for anyone heading out soon — the Albergue Cascoxu in Llanos de Somerón opens on April 1, so that’s just a few days.

Also, Sandra’s place in Bendueños, about which I have never heard anything but raves, is supposedly open from March on. That’s a bit closer than Campomanes but does require a walk up a hill for a km from the village of Herías.

Loving your posts, Happy Penguin, wondering where you wound up today?!

 

[Former member 98118]

Just a quick post while leaving Oviedo - yesterday's stage from Campomanes to Oviedo was mostly on asfalt and arrived exhausted, the 3 hills on the last stretch were actually a pleasure after flat but asphalted local roads to Mieres. So now I am trying to dodge coming rain and get as far as I can today (Cornellana I guess). I will read posts in this thread later, thank you for them!


Update: yes I did nearly 40 km stage to Cornellana, not a single drop of rain (despite the forecast). Let's see if I can get to Tineo today (Wednesday) without getting very wet.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Why do penguins - happy or otherwise - head north? Is it a calling?

Looking forward to more pics. Buen Camino.

If it was a calling they would head south, you know??

 

[MikeJS]

I uploaded 14 new photos to the San Salvador forum gallery

Hello from Campomanes, elevation 380 m above sea level. Let me start with my Strava record of the third stage of my San Salvador Camino from Poladura de la Tercia to Campomanes.

View attachment 121388
As you can see the drop from the highest point of my route to my present location is gargantuous (the word I learned from a movie). So indeed, I agree with @peregrina2000 that I walked probably the most beautiful stage of all the Caminos I know, but also I agree with @Elle Bieling that it was a bad idea to extend this stage all the way to Campomanes. Even if I walked 30 km, it felt like 50 km on Via de la Plata. It makes more sense to stop at Pajares and if someone feels like extending a stage, it would be better to do Pajares - Mieres. By the way the albergue in Llanos de Somerón, according to hospitalero from Poladura, is closed. That's why I didn't plan to stop there, also I totally liked the never ending road down from Llanos, I literally ran down those few km, just changed my trekking Keens to my light shoes I use at albergues.

This stage starting from Poladura all the way to San Miguel del Rio is a series of breathtaking views that can't be captured by a camera. You just need to see it, especially if the weather is nice like it was today.
View attachment 121391

I will add some practical tips in a separate post.

Lovely photo. I walked from Poladura to Pola de Lena a couple of years ago and found that fine as after Campomanes it was relatively easy. My blog from the time states - Campomanes to Pola de Lena was relatively flat unless you decide to visit the hermita which adds another very steep hike up and down. I have chosen to stay just outside PdL as the town seems uninspiring so have already walked about 2km of tomorrows stage to Oviedo. However, I do love long days and I had been walking on the Olvidado for the previous couple of weeks.

 

[Canche]

View attachment 121314

Hello from Poladura de la Tercia at 1250 m of altitude!
I continue my quest from Seville to Santiago after walking probably some 700 km over 3 weeks to Astorga.
You can find more details in this thread

This is where I turned east and walked one and half stage to Leon. Whether I did it unintentionally - well, I will leave it to your imagination and sense of humor...

So I have walked two stages of San Salvador out of 4 or 5 that make this Camino from Leon to Oviedo. First from Leon to La Robla and second from La Robla to Poladura de Tercia.

View attachment 121315

Even if San Salvador goes over 1600 m which is higher than the crossing from SJPP to Roncesvalles, I found the trail dry, snow free, and rather easy to walk (apart from challenge to your fitness level). I doubt it will be different today when I go through slightly higher pass. Pictire below is from yesterday (by my Strava)

View attachment 121317

You can find some pictures from that stage in San Salvador forum gallery

Some practical info.

Albergue in Cabanillas, 19 km from Leon, is closed (gronze says its open). Hospitalero probably moved to Leon for winter together with the key to albergue. I had to walk 9 km more to La Robla. Here at km 28 I found Pension Mundo which has rooms for pilgrims: 20 euro for single and 28 for double. Rooms are outdated but no reason to complain. The owner of the place (Susana) is superfriendly and helpful. I really appreciated warm place to sleep (heating goes off at night as in many cheap hostels in Spain)

Albergue in La Robla, in Buiza and Pajares are closed and nobody knows when they will reopen.
Albergue in Poladura de la Tercia is open and costs 9 euro. The Posada next door is closed and the owner says it doesn't make sense to open it due to very high prices of heating. Will open when heating is not needed - summer? So albergue is a must.

Albergue in Poladura has some heating but not at night. Clean blankets. Even if the Posada is closed, owner makes dinner for pilgrims (at 7 pm). But it's better to call ahead, I called from Buiza. Super tasty dinner for 10 euro.

Photo: your fear of heights will be tested on San Salvador. Don't forget trekking poles.
View attachment 121318

So I did 28 km from Leon to La Robla, then 26 km to Poladura, and today I want to go about 30 km to Campomanes where I found a room on booking for 27 euro (Senda del Huerna). Another pilgrim here goes to Pajares where she found a place for 25 euro (pension del Mirador). For me it is too close, 13 km - but difficult - from here (Poladura)

From Campomanes I will have rather flat 40 km to Oviedo. If the weather is good tomorrow I may do it in one go, if not, there is a place to sleep in Mieres for 20 euro (I've been told).

So anyone who wants to go for a 4-5 days Camino from Leon, doesn't suffer from vertigo and is not afraid of nearly vertical climbs or descents - the Camino San Salvador is passable and open!
Markings are very good - yellow arrows, official signs). But offline map like maps.me is helpful as many places have poor mobile coverage.
Also you can't call for a taxi from the places like you see below.

View attachment 121319

Buen Camino!

"Quien va a Santiago y no al Salvador, visita al criado pero no a su Señor"

Edited for spelling mistakes

I did the San Salvador last September and loved it even though we got lost a couple of times.