Hærvejen, Denmark

[Sunopo]

On my way to begin walking the Hærvejen+a bit because I 'll start at the very top of Jutland, namely in Skagen.
I have been traveling all day, 2 flights, 1 bus and 2 trains and should be at my starting point in a couple of hours. For this first night am staying in an Airbnb but then it'll be tent or a "herberg" in essence an albergue.
Hope to post updates here, perhaps others will be interested in walking this Camino. The Hærvejen which begins further down, in Hirtshals or Frederikshavn is affiliated with the Camino de Santiago, at least that's what I've been told. I believe a large sum of money has recently been allocated to upgrade and expand the route and related services by 2024.
Susan

 

[Flog]

Great, I look forward to following this. I hope to get a chance to walk a part of it one day. I haven't walked so much in Denmark, mostly just day hikes, but I have cycled across the country in the past. More recently I cycled the new route from Frederikssund to Copenhagen.

The last time I was up in Skagen, (too many years ago!) I camped at the edge of the woodland just under the lighthouse. A few days later I hitched a ride home on a trawler across the North Sea. Such wonderful memories!!

 

[ebrandt]

Whoo Hoo! We started in Viborg in 2017 -- and loved every step -- I'll be looking forward to your posts on the top half of the route in particular! Enjoy! Liz B

 

[markie6]

I walked a number of days in '19 along the Frances with a young Danish lad who started at the norther most part of Denmark and walked all the way to Finisterre. Nice chap who started off very young and fresh faced looking and ended with a big bushy beard.. think Tom Hanks in Castaway

He was interviewed on DK televsion IIRC

Good luck to you

 

[Sunopo]

So after 2 days walking in the very north of Jutland, no network for 24 hours but now at a very nice campsite just outside Hirtshals. Yesterday walked from Skagen town first north to the very tip of land where the North sea and the Baltic Sea meet. A return trip of nearly 10 km but without the backpack which I had left at the Airbnb. Then off to the shelter/campsite call Råbjerg Mile, a 17 km walk some of which was along the beach on the east coast. Weather not so good, one of those days where it rains, you put on the rain gear so it stops raining whereby you take the rain gear off and then it rains again.
Got to the shelter and because they were not already occupied I decided to not put up the tent but sleep in one of them. Water and dry toilet (?) .
Got up early and walked all day either on the west coast beach or on road or trail. Signage on trails in this area seems to privilege cyclists. The nortsea trail is the main one but often this is both bike and for walkers. I several times missed the split and ended up walking on the road. Eventually when I could see that I had 8 km of roadI was able to take a bus. Beware though, in Denmark payment for many things can only happen via the Danish system Mobilpay or by downloading an app called NT billet app, at least for the bus up here in the north. No Cash or credit card will be accepted. The bus driver took pity on me and let on for free. No network to download this app to pay...
Many other local trails, so I would say its very important to have gps or a downloaded trail on the phone. Otherwise compass.
In this very northern part it is not as flat as it pretends: up and down sanddunes with a backpack can be quite tiring. Tomorrow I join the official Hærvejen and hope to stay at one of the dedicated herberg/albergue.
Over and out for now

 

[Sunopo]

Great, I look forward to following this. I hope to get a chance to walk a part of it one day. I haven't walked so much in Denmark, mostly just day hikes, but I have cycled across the country in the past. More recently I cycled the new route from Frederikssund to Copenhagen.

The last time I was up in Skagen, (too many years ago!) I camped at the edge of the woodland just under the lighthouse. A few days later I hitched a ride home on a trawler across the North Sea. Such wonderful memories!!

Ah yes I believe my brother also once hitched a ride across the north sea on a trawler. I don't think that is possible anymore.

 

[Flog]

Ah yes I believe my brother also once hitched a ride across the north sea on a trawler. I don't think that is possible anymore.

Probably not. Back then, (early nineties) I enquired of the the skipper if they were headed for Ireland (seeing the Irish flag on the mast) and offered whatever help they needed in return for the passage. He sent me to the police station to get a printout to show I wasn't on the run!! It was the maiden voyage of the newly refitted Irish herring trawler and it was the most incredible 72 hour voyage...

But back to Hærvejen, I look forward to more details of the stages/shelters and I hope weather improves for you..

 

[Sunopo]

Re the shelters: they are made of sturdy wood and raised 50 cm above ground, supposedly can sleep 6 which might be a tight fit. They are oriented so that the back faces the prevalent wind, namely westerly. You can sit at the entrance at least the newer ones, then the roof slopes down to the back and you crawl inside. They definitely are efficient as shelters.

 

[ebrandt]

We used the Haervej App when we walked in 2015. It was funky and difficult but worked enough. My husband is of Danish descent and his grandfather was named Einar. We took to calling the little walking man signs that mark the Haervej "Einar". We would joke when the signs were few and far between that Einar was having a lazy day. I'm looking forward to posts whenever you can make them. Thanks!

 

[ranthr]

Went a part of Hærvejen, from Fredrikshavn to Viborg. May 2014.
Many ups and downs, yes!

 

[Sunopo]

Have wifi, will write...
Yesterday I had a long day some 33km with stormstrength headwind/sandstorm, but otherwise glorious weather. I had to abandon visiting Rubjerg knude Fyr, which is the lighthouse that was moved 70 m inland in 2019 because of coast erosion. The wind was knocking me over and I couldn't advance. Especially since the last few km were to climb this large sand dune but the sand was flying horizontally as in sandstorm. Anyhow, I turned around and walked the last bit on the main road to get to the Herberg, Strandfogedgaarden. 150 kr for the night on this large ex farm. Simple and efficient.
No food on site since the little cafe they have was closed Saturday so I brought the necessary from the previous town, 6km away. Discovered on arrival that there was beer in the fridge to purchase though.

 

[Sunopo]

Tonight I am in Hune another 28 km walk today. Note that the indicated distances given by the Hærvejen association are not so realistic. They mention 17km(!!) between the two herbergs, if taking the North sea trail (Nordsø stien) and I did 28. However so far there have been small villages on route where one could stop to make a shorter stage. Its quite touristy in this area. If bringing tent there are campsites along the way and there is also a very useful app called "Brug min baghave" (use my backyard) in essence people offering their garden as a space to put up your tent for free. Limited facilities, generally only water, sometimes toilet and bath access. Presumably if no bathroom acces it's either in the fields or public facilities nearby?
Anyways, today weather was drizzly mostly, no wind though, so my poncho was in use most of the day. Walked a good 10 km along the beach, otherwise through the summerhouse area, a mix of small tarmac roads and trails. This stretch it is recommended to take the North Sea trail rather than the Hærvej, even the Hærvej association recommends it. It is slightly shorter and less road.
Arrived in Hune, as said, and the herberg is offered by the local church, it's a modern building where you lay out a mattress ( good quality) on the floor. Excellent shower, nice modern kitchen, no microwave but oven and induction plate. 100 DK. Can pay by cash if unable to use mobilpay. A spar and Aldi 700m down the road.
The walk today really again showed the significant erosion of the beach cliffs, some places when walking at the top rather than the beach, the path had collapsed and you have to walk a few meters further inland.

 

[MaryLynn]

Reading these posts brings back good memories. I met a young Danish woman early on my 2011 Camino and we have kept in touch. I have gone to Denmark and we have walked twice on the Hærvejen, and she has come to Canada and we walked the Kapakatan trail in Quebec. We had more travel plans, but a pandemic got in the way. Hopefully it will soon be safe enough, Covid-wise, to finish the one last section of the Hærvejen that we have yet to walk. Denmark is a beautiful country!

 

[Flog]

I've always admired how the Dane's do everything to encourage the use of paths and trails for walking and cycling and getting people out into the nature.
The 'brug min baghave' initiative is a great example of the civic co-operation that still exists in Scandinavia I'm happy to see!

Sounds like a great trip despite the weather!

 

[Sunopo]

I've always admired how the Dane's do everything to encourage the use of paths and trails for walking and cycling and getting people out into the nature.
The 'brug min baghave' initiative is a great example of the civic co-operation that still exists in Scandinavia I'm happy to see!

Sounds like a great trip despite the weather!

Where I live the weather tends to be whatever is forecast and stay that way for the day. Here in Denmark I am rediscovering that whatever the forecast it'll only stay that way for a short time and then you'll get something else, usually just when you've given in and put on or taken off the rain gear . If you try to compromise and wear a light rain jacket which should work for light drizzle and no drizzle, the sun will surely come out and bake/steam you into submission in no time!
Other than that the temperature is great for walking, 15-17c.

 

[Sunopo]

Today a shorter day, 22 km to Tranum Strand kursuscenter (training center), nice single room with private bath. Only one here today so the kitchen is closed. I was told that until yesterday they had 78 Germans staying 2 weeks. This centre caters also to the military.
Anyways, it's a fine place but far from everything. Nearest store a 2 km walk along the main road. As I always carry "emergency rations". (cheese, crackers, peanuts and protein bars) I'll be fine. And I saw that there is a fridge with beer and wine one can buy, that'll do.
The walk today was really lovely through woodland, moors (well heather and sand) and fields.
Tomorrow I will have another short day to Fjerritslev , staying in town with shops and food.
I find that generally no need to carry more than 1/2-1 litre water, always a tap by a shelter or if need be one can ask at a house.

 

[Turga]

Here in Denmark I am rediscovering that whatever the forecast it'll only stay that way for a short time and then you'll get something else

I hope you will enjoy your walk in our country. I walked Hærvejen from Viborg to Dannevirke (the former Danish bastion, now in Germany) in 2016 and I really enjoyed it. The herberger (albergues) in the southern part of the trail are of a quite high standard. Yes, the most certain thing you can say about the weather here in Denmark is that it is unpredictable, but it is supposed to improve (?) in the coming week to dry and quite hot.

Buen Camino

 

[Sunopo]

I hope you will enjoy your walk in our country. I walked Hærvejen from Viborg to Dannevirke (the former Danish bastion, now in Germany) in 2016 and I really enjoyed it. The herberger (albergues) in the southern part of the trail are of a quite high standard. Yes, the most certain thing you can say about the weather here in Denmark is that it is unpredictable, but it is supposed to improve (?) in the coming week to dry and quite hot.

Buen Camino

Hej, tak for vejrudsigten!
I am Danish too, well, udenlandsdansker not having lived here the past 50 years, so this is my time of rediscovery of my birth country.

 

[Sunopo]

 

[Turga]

I am Danish too

Nå da! Der tog du da lige fusen på mig! Ha' en god tur

 

[ebrandt]

Love the pick of Einar the walking man!

 

[Sunopo]

Again a shortish walk today 21 km or so, Tranum Strand to Fjerritslev where tonight I am staying at the Idrætscenter (sports hall) where they have really nice rooms for 200 kr, single room with private bath, in town. Fully booked here, got the last room. Most seem to be sports teams or people traveling by car.
Weather forecast by @Turga is turning out pretty accurate and so nice weather for the next few days.
Moving away from the west coast now and I am already seeing more cultivated fields.
The signage on the trail is more established, although today I thought I 'd take a short cut and promptly found myself taking the wrong trails through the woods several times... Not so much a shorter distance in the end.
Btw with less wind, the very large fly population is out in force!

 

[Flog]

Fine sand off the dunes or the flies, tough choice..
Træls!

 

[Sunopo]

Yesterday I went off trail to visit a historic infrastructure between Løgstør and Lendrup, a canal dug in the 1800's by a hired crew of 400 Germans all by manual means: 4,5 km long, 3 m deep and wide enough to take boats and ships. Only used shovels, picks etc. This was to allow trade by ships to avoid a sandbank along the coast. They didn't have the means then to deepen an existing waterway.
So I walked from Fjerritslev to Lendrup and on to Ranum where I made use of the "use my backyard" app and camped on the lawn at a farm. A 34 km day with some roadwalking unfortunately.
Today, to get back to the Hærvej I took a bus. Unfortunately the tent was soaked in the morning from dew and early morning mist, so had to carry an extra couple of kilos of wet tent. Hurt my back a bit carrying too much really. Only walked 15 km because of this.
Weather stunning now.
Some observations:
Hardly ever hear or see cats or dogs.. even going past farms, either the dogs are really well behaved and don't bark or they are inside? Never see loose or stray animals.
No trash anywhere. Rarely even see trashcans I think most carry their trash home . Impressive. But it means carrying your trash for long distances when hiking.
Until now the standard greeting in the north of Jutland has been "god morgen", or daw, not so much the "hej" which you hear in the Copenhagen area.
Note that in most bakeries you can ask for a "rundstykke" ( type of breakfast bun " with butter and cheese and they'll prepare while you wait. About 20 kr, very good value. Often they'll have free hot drink available with it.

 

[Sunopo]

No WiFi tonight but will post some photos next stop

 

[Flog]

It sounds lovely! What about the landscape, is it mostly marshland in that area? And what about fruit, veg, eggs and honey for sale outside farmhouses with the little honesty box, almost like a donativo stand, do they still exist?

Until now the standard greeting in the north of Jutland has been "god morgen", or daw, not so much the "hej" which you hear in the Copenhagen area.

...and a different greeting a little further south towards Skarrild, in Central Jutland where the film Frygtelig Lykkelig is set...

Møjn!!

 

[Sunopo]

It sounds lovely! What about the landscape, is it mostly marshland in that area? And what about fruit, veg, eggs and honey for sale outside farmhouses with the little honesty box, almost like a donativo stand, do they still exist?


...and a different greeting a little further south towards Skarrild, in Central Jutland where the film Frygtelig Lykkelig is set...

Mojn!!

Yes! Møjn, I am looking forward to hearing that.
The country side now is much softer, more agriculture thus more fields and harvest is in full swing.
Similar to south of England, Kent perhaps.
Still no WiFi where I am tonight at Hjarbæk a very small village by the inland sea , Hjarbæk fjord, the very bottom of Limfjorden. The Herberg is in a very old thatched cottage, like a tiny house but a listed house and with a view into the little harbour. So pretty.
Weather hot and sunny, stunning.
Did 36 km today, a mix of dirt tracks through fields, small tarmac country lanes.
A couple runs this herberg and they brought smørebrød to share for dinner. The neighbors came by too and chatted, all so friendly.
Can highly recommend this place.

 

[Northpole]

Lovely posts, Sunopo, thanks for letting us follow along! I am a fellow Nordic and have just learned about Hærvejen through a Danish couple who just walked it. (They have done lots of caminos as well and post on this forum as well.) They posted on FB every day while on Hærvejen: https://www.facebook.com/friefodspor

I would be very interested in doing part of Hærvejen sometime, it sounds really cool!

 

[Sunopo]

Lovely posts, Sunopo, thanks for letting us follow along! I am a fellow Nordic and have just learned about Hærvejen through a Danish couple who just walked it. (They have done lots of caminos as well and post on this forum as well.) They posted on FB every day while on Hærvejen: https://www.facebook.com/friefodspor

I would be very interested in doing part of Hærvejen sometime, it sounds really cool!

Oh yes I did follow Frie Fodspor too , they finished a few days after I began and also were interviewed by the region radio station in the North Jutland.

 

[Northpole]

Oh yes I did follow Frie Fodspor too , they finished a few days after I began and also were interviewed by the region radio station in the North Jutland.

Very cool! It is great how they (and you!) are bringing attention to Hærvejen and other walking trails!

 

[Sunopo]

 

[Sunopo]

 

[Sunopo]

Local honey, potatoes, vegetables, fruit being sold at little stands along the way. An the occasional Camino angel too, fridge with cold drinks and snacks for a small fee.

 

[Sunopo]

Arrived in Viborg and have posted my tent home will use only herbergs and shelters now. Am about halfway now.
Only place I have found free high speed wifi is in a coffee shop, having an iced latte, do feel sorry for me, like not! It's cooking out there today . Not complaining, though, its still much cooler than home.

 

[Sunopo]

Viborg has a cathedral, well "dom kirke" and many beautiful old buildings,well worth a visit.

 

[Flog]

Great report and pics, it looks to be like everything I thought it might!

So, heading south for Silkeborg.. How close does the Hærvejen pass near Himmelbjerg, would it be worth the detour do you think? I remember, thinking it looks little more than a hill, but looking down over flat land and the lakes, it must be a nice view?

 

[Sunopo]

Great report and pics, it looks to be like everything I thought it might!

So, heading south for Silkeborg.. How close does the Hærvejen pass near Himmelbjerg, would it be worth the detour do you think? I remember, thinking it looks little more than a hill, but looking down over flat land and the lakes, it must be a nice view?

I'm in Kragelund now and just measured the distance to Himmelbjerget, it's 27 kmso not so far. There is a bus from this village to Silkeborg and then there are hiking trails all around the lakes. Himmelbjerget is actually not the highest point in Denmark. It was properly measured in middle of 1800's where it became obvious that the information first provided in 1768 by Erik Pontoppidan was not correct. I think it is still a general understanding that the Himmelbjerg is the highest, I certainly as a child thought so but maybe I was just ignorant...
And "There are no mountains in Denmark, and no place in Denmark is more than an hour's drive from the sea. Denmark is a flat, seaside country with an average elevation barely above sea level. Møllehøj is the highest spot in Denmark – with an elevation of just 171 meters (561 feet)".
And Møllehøj is near Skanderborg.

 

[Sunopo]

Bits and pieces: the farmers are working day and night to bring the harvest in, it may rain a bit overnight. So all tractors and harvesting equipment in full action everywhere.
At the past 4-5 herbergs no wi-fi, perhaps most people in Denmark have good dataplans and don't really need wifi.
The area I have been walking through the past couple of days is very rich in history, traces of the past couple ice ages, bronze age burial grounds and it is in this area there was a big battle in 1157 to sort out who was going to be king. Valdemar the Great won...I'll post photo of the very interesting signs.you'll probably need to click on each photo to be able to read them clearly

 

[Sunopo]

Last night in Møllegården herberg,in Sepstrup, had a cabin all to myself, so nice. 150 kr/ about 20€.
Walking through beautiful countryside, lots of historical sites, passed the location where the Tollund man (5th century B.C) was found.
Am tonight using the "use my backyard" app and overnighting in a garden/hobby shed in Nørre Snede. Such generous and kind people. Expecting heavy thunderstorms overnight am very glad to be sleeping indoors.
Tomorrow 30 km day to get to Jelling the centre of the Viking history here.

Now seeing Camino de Santiago signs

 

[Sunopo]

30 km today Nørre Snede to Jelling. Rain all morning and walking on tarmac most of the time so all in all not a very inspiring day.
Tonight in the Herberg in Jelling, all of a sudden a group of 7 people have arrived. Including a small baby! Gosh, not using to such a crowd! Will stay 2 nights so I can visit all the interesting things here about the Vikings. It is a UNESCO heritage site. More about Harald Bluetooth tomorrow, and yes, the modern Bluetooth technology is named after him.

 

[VNwalking]

More about Harald Bluetooth tomorrow, and yes, the modern Bluetooth technology is named after him.

I had no idea.
The things you learn on the Forum.
Tak, @Sunopo - I'm really enjoying your posts.

 

[Sunopo]

 

[Sunopo]

Well, the exhibition here in Jelling about the Vikings history and the transition to Christianity is outstanding. I would say that it is perhaps one of the most interesting and engaging exhibitions I've ever seen, if ever you have the opportunity to visit it is well worth it. It also describes very well Denmark's origin as a country and kingdom ( well queendom at the moment I suppose? ) . I certainly want to learn more.
Other than that Jelling is a small place not so much else to see except for a bicycle wearing knitwear and a shopping cart bicycle.

 

[Sunopo]

The trademarked logo for Bluetooth is the combination of two ancient Danish runes of the letters "H" and "B," the initials of Harald "Bluetooth" Gormsson

 

[Flog]

The trademarked logo for Bluetooth is the combination of two ancient Danish runes of the letters "H" and "B," the initials of Harald "Bluetooth" Gormsson

Interesting!


Is Jelling still a university town? My friend did his teaching studies there..

 

[Sunopo]

Interesting!


Is Jelling still a university town? My friend did his teaching studies there..

There is a university college here yes.

 

[Sunopo]

From Jelling walked to Ølgaard herberg, +/- 30 km. A friend of mine joined for 2 days which made for really nice company.
The Herberg we stayed at last night was a bit chaotic, they do warn that they have events going on on Saturday, and so they did: a wedding.
The wedding guests believed they had booked the whole place and we had been told that although we would be sleeping in the shelter at the bottom of the garden, we would be given access to toilet/shower facilities.
The owner was not on site, the wedding guests, well one irate person, locked all access to the building, to prevent us from entering....
We were five quiet middle aged women not asking for trouble, but not so happy either being treated in such a way.
We eventually found another access to toilet facilities and sneaked in one after the other.
So, if ever you stay there, best to avoid Saturdays. Clearly the owner is keen to make a bit of money from both businesses. The Herberg business is not profitable however when a place signs up to be a herberg they receive funds to renovate.
Fortunately we all had a bit of food (had also been promised), so by sharing we were able to not go to bed hungry. The place is far from any stores.
However, on a happier note we did stop on the way at Bindeballe købmandsgård, a museum to the old fashioned country store that sells everything. We had coffee and cake there.worth a visit.

 

[Sunopo]

Tonight am staying at Kongeåen herberg, another nearly 30 km, but we took a bus for 10 km to Vejen where my friend had to take the train back home. Did not miss much it would have been all road walking.
Am on my own at the herberg, right out in the country side. However, wifi !, Yes first time in a long time and the explanation is because there is no phone network coverage. Food and drink in fridge/freezer to buy.

 

[Sunopo]

Not posted so much the past few days but have been moving along. From Kongeåen herberg I walked to Jegerup herberg, not on the official Hærvejen list for accommodation, not sure why because it was very nice.
Next day on to Bruhnsgaard herberg, another 26-27 km, where the lady running the place (Irmgarten, her name is) prepared dinner for me for a small fee (65 kr).
Then onwards today to yet another herberg not on the list but located at a critical halfway point between Bruhnsgaard and the border allowing one to break up the 43 km into manageable distances. Really nice again, slightly more expensive because it really is a b&b, but for a very reasonable 250 kr one get a room with proper bed and bedlinen, acces to a kitchen, TV, wifi and nice outdoor terrace.
Unfortunately today was all on gravel and tarmac and so I've developed 2 blisters due to the hard surfaces.
However, only 20 km tomorrow to the border.
I shall also visit the Frøslev internment camp museum in Padborg/Frøslev, where my grandfather who was a member of the Danish resistance movement was interned before being sent to a concentration camp in Germany where he died.
So tomorrow will be the end of my journey from Skagen to Padborg, +/-550 km, over 3 weeks.

 

[dougfitz]

Its been fascinating watching your journey. Thank you for sharing.

 

[VNwalking]

I shall also visit the Frøslev internment camp museum in Padborg/Frøslev, where my grandfather who was a member of the Danish resistance movement was interned before being sent to a concentration camp in Germany where he died.

Oh, my, @Sunopo. A somber visit, but very good thing to do - to remember.
Thank you for sharing your journey - it's been very nice to read and see, as you walked South.

 

[Sunopo]

A surprisingly pleasant 20 km walk to the border on soft woodland and field tracks, except for a couple of km across a highway or two.
This is the end of my walk in Denmark, if anyone else decides to do this, feel free to contact me with questions.

 

[Flog]

Thank you for your posts, and for documenting the way. it's been a pleasure to follow and definitively something to put on my list, if only a section of it.

Ha' en god tur hjem!