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Great Places to eat on the CF

SYates

Camino Fossil AD 1999, now living in Santiago de C
Time of past OR future Camino
First: Camino Francés 1999
...
Last: Santiago - Muxia 2019

Now: http://egeria.house/
Ok, time for another positive thread - What were the places you ate and where the food was really, really good on the CF? Here a couple of mine (need to hunt down those exact locations etc as normally my feet and nose carry me to them directly without the need going through notes ;-) SY

Pamplona

Meson/Mirador del Caballo Blanco
http://www.caballoblanco.info
You can fill your pilgrims tummy with their very very reasonable priced tapas/pintxos/raciones http://www.caballoblanco.info/bar-picoteo/ and enjoy a glorious view at the same time. The also offer a menu, but I never tried it.
And yes, this is the place Tom and Joost had their pintxos/tapas discussion in the movie The Way

Mansilla de las Mulas

La Curiosa
https://www.facebook.com/La-Curiosa-Casa-De-Comidas-194487207405195/about/
C/ José Alvarez 15
Mansilla Mayor

Tel +34 608 88 05 88

Had an outstanding, but really outstanding!, menu there for ~13 Euro, three courses, drinks and coffee. Lovely decor, very friendly service and only 5min walk from the albergue municipal.

So, what are your tips to savour the delights of the different regional cuisines on the CF?
Buen Camino, SY
 
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Leon - La Taberna de Trastamara.

Very close to the Benedictinas albergue. Small and fairly simple restaurant. Excellent lunchtime menu at low price. I had red peppers stuffed with morcilla, and a generous pig knuckle joint for main. Extra points for very friendly service, a full bottle of excellent chilled tinto, and an eclectic background music mix of '70's and '80's classics. "Jolene" followed by "Paranoid" ? Loved it so much I ate there again in the evening (much more limited choice - go in the afternoon!).
 
Los Arcos

restaurante/bar Mavi

Another good menu de dia is that of the restaurante/bar Mavi near the bus station at Carretera La Serna 2. It is a simple place and filled at lunch with workers which is always a good sign. Servings are copious and a good value for money. They also rent rooms which can be handy in winter when many Los Arcos albergues are closed. Here is their web. https://pensionmavi.es/
 
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Puente La Reina

La Conrada

In Puente La Reina late last October I enjoyed a GREAT meal
at the La Conrada restaurant, 17 Paseo de los Fueros, which parallels the camino on the south. For 10 euros seated in the comfy bar the meal included pasta salad, fresh octopus with aioli mayonaise and saute potatoes, lemon sherbet, and a glass of wine. Read more on their web page.
 
La Taberna de Gaia (casa de comidas)

Foncebadon
Looks small from the front, big inside.
Wood burners going.
Staff dressed in a slightly medieval style (don't let that put you off, it's not tacky).
Wine in goblets.
Great food.
I had a huge steak, served on a large plate sized round of bread, served on a larger plate.
I'd seen it brought out for others and decided 'that's what i'm having'
 

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I walked to Samos from Triacastila which added another 5 km to my day s walk..... it was a really hot day and I wanted a nice place to chill and the locals recommended Hotel a Viega for lunch and rest..... it was packed with local connoisseurs, but I managed to get a table where I had the best menu del dia in the Camino.... the starter fish soup was to die for!
 

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The roast lamb at Restaurant Pancho in the busy restaurant street near the cathedral in Burgos was one of my best meals on the CF. Some good tapas there too.
 
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Casa Teodora at Arzua was very nice place to eat, I found in from tripadvisor and menu del dia was the best during my camino this spring.
http://www.casateodora.com/

There were bunch of people waiting the restaurant to be open and by the clothes and different kind of difficulties to walk, I assumed we all were peregrinos.
 
La Finca Albergue at Poblacion (3 km after Fromista). A new Albergue and the manager is a chef. I am just finishing the best pilgrim menu that I have had on the Camino this year. Give yourself a treat. Stay in the Albergue (single beds in curtained alcoves) and order the dinner. I am hoping that this one will last.
 
Also the rabbit stew in a little hotel or pension at Calzadilla de la Cueza was excellent. I'm sorry, but I can't find the name of the restaurant, but it was so small village (about 60-100 people according to guidebook) so perhaps it was the only place to serve meals in the whole village. Atleast peregrinos from the both albergues did come there too and eat with us who stayd in the hostel. I tried to copy the meal at home this summer and got it quite well!

This is my post about the copying the meal. It is in Finnish, but you can try the funny translation.
http://campasimpukka.blogspot.fi/2016/09/estofado-de-conejo-en-tomate.html
 
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Albergue de peregrinos Ave Fenix in Villafranca bel berzoi has good menu.... and breakfast. The ambience is lovely too and the hospitalerios are very kind. I thought it was a lovely touch for all pilgrims to hold hands and say grace before meal... The caldo gallego was yummy!
 
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I'm terrible with names of places, but will go back tonight to look up places that haven't already been named...and I think i must have been following in Sabine's footsteps
but just so I can name one place no one else has yet, Hostel Villares de Órbigo (I wish I could just take Bethlehem home to cook for me) there was some sort of traditional stew that I passed on because of the meat in it, but the green salad with rice and fish in it was wonderful (we all fought over the last grains of rice)...I don't know if they serve to others besides those who are staying there but I can't imagine them turning anyone away from a meal, either)...and in Lorca (I think) there were two albergues across the street from each other, I stayed in the one on the right [edit: albergue de Lorca Jose Ramon]...they did serve meals to others besides those staying there, and the ensalta mixta was the best I ever had, as well as the best coffee (not sure why but it was magic), and I was happy with the chicken dish they had as well, but really had so much ensalata I was more tasting it to be polite...
 
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We had one of our most memorable meals at Como Sapiens. The chef goes to great lengths to provide an alternative version of the Pilgrims Menu. He is also the star of the show - ask him about his framed cork collection which is a reminder of special times shared as opposed to the specific wines.

Dining alone would not have been an issue as solo pilgrims were soon absorbed into other groups.

Another standout meal for us was at the small private albergue A Paso de Formiga in Portos. Located in a small village (Pop. 2) on Kilometre 71 of the Camino, this Albergue/Hostal is halfway between Portomarin and Melide. It really is an amazing place to stop for the night. Great service and another one of the fabulous and memorable Pilgrim meals.

We had drinks in the bar and then sat outside in the landscaped garden with its quirky ant sculptures and vegetable beds.

Dinner was shared with all pilgrims and was among the best that we had on the Camino. Most produce came from out of the garden and the cook produced dish after abundant dish. The wine wasn't too bad either.

Breakfast was in the bar the next morning and was a delicious fresh take on the usual fare.
 
Cafe Restaurante Las Murallas, Astorga - best spaghetti ever.

Cafe O Paris, SdeC - best chile con carne in Spain

And I never had a bad ensalada mixta, anywhere.
 
Any of the tapas bars in Logrono on those streets near the plaza and cathedral.
Don't think I had a single bad tapas or a bad glass of wine from them.
It sure does get crowded though....
 
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In my experience, the best pilgrim meal was in Sahagun at Meson El Cepo, very near the Plaza Mayor. You get a real value for you Euro there. I recall the Melon with Ham particularly. The melon was at the peak of ripeness and it seemed to be covered with half of a small hog. And the people there couldn't be nicer.
 

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Two Casa Rurals come to mind.
(1) Casa Rural El Molino, a bit off route but they will pick you up and drop you back at Hornillos. The food and the wine were to die for.
(2) Casa El Cura at Calzada de los Hermanillos. Excellent food, great wine and one of the best host on the Camino.
We had such a good time at both of these places that the next time we walk the Camino we will stay there again.
 
Hi Sybill, there is an existing list somewhere in the forum , @KinkyOne started a list and handed it over to someone ................ still , nothing wrong with an up to date thread.
 
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Yes, I tried to find it, but with no luck Buen Camino, SY
 
Jimmy Smith said:
Wow what a great topic, SY do I see a PDF resource coming out of this as I would rather take a printed copy of a reasonable list then try to depend on www connection en route.
Click to expand...
@SYates I do like the downloadable PDFs for the albergues. I keep a list of planning notes as I read, and bookmark them with the post URL using the permalink number button to the left of the Like button.
 
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Nájera, Mesón El Buen Yantar, Calle Mártires, 19. Near Albergue Nido de Cigueña. Delicious sopa de garbanzos, bacalao y espinacas (chick peas, cod, spinach); wonderful cheese flan made with mascarpone; all locals, apart from us.
 
Yes!!! If this is the place with the window opening onto the street as well, they serve the most memorable mushrooms ever!
 
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Home cooked meals by owners/volunteers at Lorca's albergue (Jose Ramon), in San Anton and at Pieros' albergue (vegetarian or vegan)...
YUM just thinking of it!


 
Marion-SantiagoInLove said:
Home cooked meals by owners/volunteers at Lorca's albergue (Jose Ramon),
Click to expand...
right!! I stopped for lunch then stayed...and the owner was so nice
I remember it had been pouring rain, how pleasant it was to sit at the bar and watch others slogging by, as I drank my coffee and tried to get their free use computer to send my emails. This was where I learned to stop walking when I found a place that smelled good. I'm terrible remembering the names of places, and generally found them as I walked past and thought 'oh, what's cooking here...I must have some'..but I will always remember the view of the very wet camino through their big front door from my toasty spot inside, huge cafe con leche warming me up...
 
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keeping in mind things could change in four years, and I eat primarily veggies and seafood (so this will be a long post with little useful information)

Pamplona--Cafe Iruna--I liked the paella mixta (I know, inland but still) but loved the salmon; tapas at Cafe Roch. actually tapas everywhere. I spent over 48 hours eating my way out of town.

Lorca and Estella--already mentioned Hostal de Lorca Jose Ramon and San Miguel Albergue...although there is a couple of bakeries in Estella in the square where the road goes toward the Basilica that had way too many appealing sweets…hey, I needed extra energy for the climb up to the Basilica. San Miguel is in a three-way tie for my favorite stay/meal on the camino.

Leon-El Faisan Dorado...paella. definitely the paella. Again, I know, inland, but the waiter promised me I would be happy. I was. I admit to really liking paella, so take my advice with a grain of salt. I would probably even like not-so-good paella. El Gaucho...patatas bravas...oh, ok, I ate my way through a lot of the tapas

Villares de Orbigo--Albergue Villares de Orbigo…they may only serve dinner to those staying there, not sure…but this was one of my most favorite albergues on the Frances (and the other routes for that matter). Beautiful courtyard, library, huge modern bathrooms…and food to die for (when I imagined what Guermes would be like from everyone's descriptions, it was this place). Fresh salad that tasted like it was just picked, full of veggies and fish and rice, stew brimming with meat and more fresh veggies, soft bread….

Astorga--Hotel Gaudi (how could I not)...loved the cod salad (but stay at the Hotel Spa Ciudad de Astorga…after all the albergues, you deserve the showers here).

El Ganso—Cowboy bar—the food is typical bar food but trading stories with the bartender (Spanish Foreign Legion) makes up for it

Foncebadon—Domus Dei---whatever the hospitalero/pilgrims cook, you will never forget this place—it’s in a three way tie for best albergue in 90 days. I had lunch at La Taberna de Gaia—if you eat meat, the platters are huge…I had fish and veggies…the plates were huge. The deserts sounded tempting but I was so full. I wanted to dislike it, actually, with its medieval décor and costumes but it was so good. I couldn’t imagine it would keep going, a ‘theme’ restaurant in such a small place but I hope it has. The place to eat if you’re passing through, or staying someplace other than Domus Dei…or if you are a pig like me and can eat a big lunch then dinner a few hours later.

El Acebo—biggest, freshest, tastiest egg bocadillo…normally I don’t eat these, but I saw someone else’s and had to have one. I almost stopped walking for the day I was so happy with the food. It’s the first place on the right as you enter, they also have rooms I think.

Molinaseca—place near the river just after you cross the bridge…grilled trout mmmm

SdC-- Mejilloneria Belgo—mussels! (though sadly, still not as good as in Belgium) Casa Manolo—you get a lot of food for the money (for those who complain my other choices aren’t cheap)…a bit noisy/crowded for my taste but the food was good; pimiento de Padron in lots of places, my favorite was a place near the square with a statue of Pelayo. Part of my stay was at the Parador, the breakfasts there were good but essentially like any good hotel, and I didn’t eat dinner there. Part of my stay was in the AC Palacio del Carmen, with similar good hotel breakfasts, but I did eat dinner there, and it was my second favorite pulpo of my trip (favorite was in Muxia). I liked the old stone walls in the dining room.
 
La Taberna de Gaia in Foncebadon - Yes, it opened in 2001? and is still going strong, also if the opening times (mostly weekends) are a bit of a hit and miss. Calling it a theme-restaurant, I am not sure. I had, over the years, some nice chats with the owner and his idea was to provide food like it was eaten in this region centuries ago. He went to great lenght in the past to learn about pre-everything cooking/recipes. And the "interior design" is all handmade by local crafts people. A very special place. Buen Camino, SY
 
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SYates said:
Calling it a theme-restaurant, I am not sure.
Click to expand...
I agree entirely, this was one of the nicest meals I had, and regretted for days not having had room for desert. Where I live, places that have clothing/decor from centuries ago are considered to have a theme, the pull of the costume and decor is what brings in customers, not necessarily the food...and to be profitable, it needs to be in a large city--to find enough customers who want the costume/decor. The food and service at La Taberna de Gaia were outstanding, and it really is a very beautiful place. I'm glad it was already open many years when I stopped by...I'm amazed no one else listed it before me...truly a gem.
 
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Pamplona
Bar Oreja,Jaruata 19. Tel 948 22 50 27

Spanish friends introduced me to this local restaurante.
Excellent menu del dia for 10 euros with plenty of choice plus very good wine.Ears were on the menu but I chose the pig's cheeks.
 

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Dinkumdigger said:
Ears were on the menu but I chose the pig's cheeks.
Click to expand...
You strike me as someone with whom I would love to share lunch.

I ate at a Chinese restaurant in Maryland that served chicken feet. I passed on the feet, but what I did order was the best food ever. I told my friends we had to try a place near our favorite sushi restaurant when I saw the menu included chicken feet. I swore to them that if they were willing to say in print they served chicken feet, the food would be authentic and amazing. It was. Sometimes eating requires a bit of faith.
 
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@SYates -

Great thread!

I don't disagree with any of the mentions above that I have been to. As late as I am to this thread though, I am surprised at the lack of mention of 'Casa de comidas Begoña y Antonio' in Navarette. Google location link:

https://www.google.com/maps/place/Casa+de+comidas+Begoña+y+Antonio/@42.4291903,-2.5614922,202m/data=!3m2!1e3!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x1a6bac144d097f47!8m2!3d42.4291902!4d-2.560945

After one is done admiring the magnificent retablo at 'Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Asunción', come out of the church then cross the small plaza fronting it. Take the stairs at the left down (not visible on Goog) to another small plaza and it will be on your left.

Try the lentejas as a starter. Grab the cod poached in sweet red pepper next with a timbale of seasoned rice in a bechamel flavored with squid ink. (pictured) Excellent both times I have been there two years apart. Great hospitality as well!

B
 
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We had amazing food a few nights ago at Albergue Turistico Salceda, which is about 28kms before Santiago. We had lunch, dinner and breakfast there - all were fantastic.
 
MS is this the place set in an underground cellar? I ate in a place across the square from the church. It was crowded and we shared a table with two other Aussie pilgrims, a very friendly Yank & two others. We had to leave when they eventually kicked us out - 3 or 4 bottles of wine later!!!
 
You have to be prepared on the Camino to put yourself out. I just walk in & ask for a table & say I am happy to share. It usually works.
 
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Hola Marbuck, thanks for the recommendation for El Molino. I have it on my list of places to " definitely stay", next May. Yes I know it's a bit up market but it will be worth it!!
I will also check out Casa El Acura.
 

No Mike the Mavi is not underground. It is on a corner near the so-called bus station.

See more here via Google maps.
Bar Restaurante Mavi
https://goo.gl/maps/S2CPEH5k6B42
 
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Jimmy Smith said:
Wow what a great topic, SY do I see a PDF resource coming out of this as I would rather take a printed copy of a reasonable list then try to depend on www connection en route.
Click to expand...
Jimmy I will be downloading this whole file over the weekend & will try to put into a single document!
 
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All going well and provided that the so-called 'real life' doesn't throw-up a hiccup, I should have the first version of a PDF up in the resources section today, so hold your horses @Saint Mike II and save your finger tips ;-) Buen Camino, SY
 
Saint Mike II said:
You have to be prepared on the Camino to put yourself out.
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excellent point. also a reminder to all of us to put ourselves out also in inviting solo pilgrims to join us when we see them enter or sit alone, or as we walk out the albergue door in search of a meal.
 
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Smallest_Sparrow said:
Leon-El Faisan Dorado...

El Gaucho...patatas bravas...oh, ok, I ate my way through a lot of the tapas
...
Click to expand...

Ok, I have worked my way through the posts to Leon, so there is hope ;-)

Faisan Dorado has permanently closed, but can you clarify which El Gaucho you mean? I find several in Leon.

SY *Who is now so hungry from looking at all those food websites and menus that she goes out for a bite herself now*
 
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I will try to look on a map...don't waste your time on it...plenty of great eating there without my input...
 
@trecile, I've eaten there. Walking solo but there were other pilgs about who when asked wrre happy to share a table. The owner is a hoot. On an evening when a table for two had 4 people squeezed around it while a table for six had 4 luxuriating he announced "There are three peoples in this world. There are men, there are women: and there are Pilgrims!" Great food and good wine but I came away mostly struck by an encounter with an amigo del camino. He would have found you some company - its how he does things.
 
NualaOC said:
We had amazing food a few nights ago at Albergue Turistico Salceda, which is about 28kms before Santiago. We had lunch, dinner and breakfast there - all were fantastic.
Click to expand...

I stayed here 16th April 2015,a day of non stop rain,loved the cosy albergue with its wood pellet burner.Unfortunately, the only food on offer was the peregrino menu which I usually try to avoid like the plague and I wish that I had been able to this night.I gave it 2* out of 5*, it was actually 2nd from the bottom of my list of 55 main meals that I,mostly,enjoyed on my caminos last year.
It just goes to show how people can have very different experiences of the same place.
 
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Dinkumdigger said:
It just goes to show how people can have very different experiences of the same place.
Click to expand...
that's one reason I was hesitant to post my likes, since I already knew I might not be in line with most tastes...that's why I like the "follow your nose" approach, accompanied with a quick glance at the posted menu (if there is one). It's also why I have trouble remembering the name of most places.
 

Unfortunately I've forgotten the names of most of the places that I ate although I could easily find them if/when I return.
 
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just to clarify, liking your work, not that you're tired
 
One of the best meals that I had on the Camino was at Albergue Verde in Hospital de Orbigo. Great vegan meal (and I'm not vegan or vegetarian!) with vegetables from the on site organic garden. Worth staying here just for the dinner, but it's also a very nice albergue with free yoga!
 
I stayed here back in Sept 2015. They even had yoga classes - or a session. It was great & agree about the vegetarian meal - a change from all that Spanish meat/pork was welcome.
 
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A special place for me was Malak Bistro in Santiago de Compostela (Rua Orfas 27). Great food (middle-eastern, mediteranean) prepared with love. Friendly atmosphere. A camino sister took me, it was a real treat!!!!
 
The burgers at Meson de los Infantes, Burgos when you just can't face another ensalada mixta
 
The

The last restaurant on your way out of Hornillos! Two pilgrims walking the Camino fell in love, came back and opened this place. He is Korean and makes fabulous ribs! All the food is delicious!
 
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Thank
 

Yes! Six of us ate there and had a wonderful time. The atmosphere was good, food was way above the usual pilgrim menu and the waiter was professional and very helpful. Cosmo Sapiens was a very good experience and a bright spot of our night in Atapuerca.
 
El Mono,
C/Mayor 41,Najera (old town)
Cross the bridge and it is the 1st street on the left,Mono is on the right hand side.
Excellent local food,lots of choice,menu del dia 10 euros.
I went on a wednesday pm and it was packed solid,diners all Spanish as far as I could make out.
 
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You're absolutely right! Great place!
 
Camino Way markers in Bronze
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One from Santiago itself: a place I ate lunch in about 15 minutes ago. Restaurant Tarara. On the same street as the pilgrim office. Tiny dining room. Excellent value menu del dia with a decent choice of local dishes for only 8.90 euro. I had pulpo as starter and very good paella with fresh seafood, coffee with orujo as postre. Sorely tempted by the pimientos de Padron too. Washed down with a 1/2 bottle of Ribeiro. Diners packed elbow to elbow. Will never appear in a Michelin guide but for good simple food at a budget price it is a hard act to follow.
 
Well. Campasimpukka, I confess that I had my own BK experience on the Way.

At the end of an immensely long and tiring day I staggered into Logrono and off the beaten path, looking for an obscure pension. And there, on the wonderfully named Gran Via del Juan Carlos I, I encountered a Burger King restaurant. Dear friends! I was at the end of my energy, the end of my tether, and that Burger King restaurant shone before me as if it were Santiago itself, or Canterbury, or Lourdes, or Jerusalem! It was one of "those" moments! I entered -- I simply could not help myself! And there I was privileged to enjoy the greatest hamburger ever eaten by mortal man!

Life's never been the same.
 
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Dear Rev -

I just had to give you a like just for the wondrous enthusiasm alone.

But seriously... was it heat exhaustion, too many meds, lack of meds or (dare I suggest) an absence of taste?

We agreed on some really good food so now you have me wondering about my palate!

B
 
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That reminds me of the best spaghetti bolognesa I've ever had in my entire life. It was lunchtime in Puente la Reina. I'm sure that the fact that I had only had a pincho of tortilla and glass of orange juice about 5 hours earlier had nothing to do with its deliciousness.
 
this is why Clif Shots taste so good at the end of Haines point in the MCM. Other wise imho there's not enough money in the world to make someone swallow one. The same is not true of the doughnut holes served in Crystal City...those are good any time (and I'm told the same is true for the cups of beer some find there)
 
No contest! Cafe Casanova in Estrella takes all of the top ten places. You will not believe what you get for 9 euros--both for quality and quantity.
 
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I had a fab meal there in Oct 2013 - delicious and not like many of the other drab Pilgrim meals we'd had before.
 
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