Oooh, I also have a marvelous meal memory. The bar owner had just gotten a huge flat of setas and whipped up a plate for me that was unlike any other setas I have ever had. And that was just for starters! I thought at the time that I was extremely lucky to find them open, though the owner did tell me that they typically opened up for pilgrims whenever they arrived. I think there was a son helping out on the weekends, if I can remember right, and they were doing a booming business but just because there had been a First Communion or two in the local church. I was told the kids did not live in town, but their parents had grown up there and wanted to do their kids’ Communions there for sentimental reasons. This is very bad news for the town— these bars are about the last thing standing after the schools close and people migrate to the city, but I’ll bet the doctor still makes a visit given Spain’s outstanding health care system!
Gotarrendura is, I think, the reputed home of Santa Teresa de Ávila’s dovecote — can anyone help me out on that?