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Going home - again.

Corned Beef

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
2024 Portuguese / VF (South) / VF GSB Pass (Done)
I've already come home from a September Norte, but I have to return to Vigo next week to pick up my bike which I left with family there. Now I could take the train back but thought I might combine the Ingles with Ruta do Mar to Ribadeo as I liked the Norte so much. Weather forecast for Santiago next week is 18 deg C which is amazing.

To help me decide some of the stop offs should I break at Betanos, Pontedeume or Ferrol? Ferrol is off the route so it would have to be exceptional to be worth the detour (though the passarella at Neda looks interesting). I have already booked Santo André de Teixido but need to split the route somewhere.

PS Apologies to @C clearly who has put me on the November calendar as being on VDLP but the weather in the North is much better.
 
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Indeed, the North covers a large area but from my daughter's account from Llanes yesterday, it has been raining.

She should be in your neck of the woods today.
Ah, I hope the weather hasn't been too bad... Rain and strong winds I heard... I am not around, in Burgos this week. Weather is similar but colder.
 
The Ruta do Mar starts at Ferrol and goes along the coast. Looks like reasonable weather but not the 18deg that Santiago is supposed to be getting this week. I can take rain, but not ice so going along the coast should give warming(-ish) weather.

The other advantage of the route is there is a FEVE station every 5 miles or so. If the rain gets too much, I can dry off and travel at the same time.
 
Join the Camino cleanup. Logroño to Burgos May 2025 & Astorga to OCebreiro in June
Walked the Ingles this past May. Didn't much like it, to be honest, and won't do it again. Can't hold a candle to the Frances or Aragones experiences. And a bit harder than my old bones had expected it to be.... Strongly advise you to avoid the Hotel Zahara in Ferrol! It's not so much a hotel as it is a restaurant that rents rooms. Not nice. In fact, forget spending any time in Ferrol! Nothing to see there but Franco's birthplace. Dirty modern city, with zero Camino charm!

That said, I very much liked Betanzos, I was there by chance on Market Day -- quite the spectacle! And I left thinking that there was a lot more to see in Betanzos than my schedule permitted. Overnighted at the rather upscale (by my standards) Hostal Portico, right in the heart of town.... I also liked Pontedeume. Stayed in the evidently brand new Hostal de Peregrinos San Cristobal, an odd but likeable place on a hill outside of, and overlooking, the town. Lovely vistas! Good food!
 
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Will be starting home tomorrow after arriving in Vigo. Someone mentioned the Xmas lights in Vigo as worth a visit and they are correct. Whole centre is festooned with lights and a very nice market too.

Place is very busy with families and you can see how much the Spanish love family outings.
 

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Will be starting home tomorrow after arriving in Vigo. Someone mentioned the Xmas lights in Vigo as worth a visit and they are correct. Whole centre is festooned with lights and a very nice market too.

Place is very busy with families and you can see how much the Spanish love family outings.
@peregrina2000 mentioned the Christmas lights in Lisbon too, as being very special.

I'd love to see both, but can't imagine being away from family, and summer holidays, at the right time.
 
Today was testing out the definition of waterproof. The top half passed but failure at the shoes.

Tonight I’ll see if the meagre radiators at the Hospederia can undo today’s damage.

Forecast for next few days is dry.

Hope @JabbaPapa is doing better than me.
 
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Reached Ferrol having got lost on the Ingles just out of Santiago. Still a few pilgrims heading south to Santiago this morning.

Managed a detour on a Via Verde which runs from Santiago to Ordes. From the little I can understand from the signs, it was started in 1938 using criminals and political prisoners. It runs besides the new line and as you would expect from an old rail lines, it’s relatively flat.

Reached Ferrol at sunset to see copper red skies over the bays and inlets. Quite beautiful and hope to get a pic tomorrow as I head onto the Ruto do Mar
 

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Unexpectedly I was on a Camino today. I planned to visit Santo André de Teixido but didn’t realise the route chosen was the Camino there. It was well signpost using a red fish symbol.

The route starts at the Mosteiro de San Martin which those who do the Ingles will know. It’s beside the rail walkway that leads to Neda. From there it’s about 40k to Santo André through forest roads, small villages and coastal towns.

Views are spectacular when you have sunny clear weather like today. Pick up what you need before you start as there isn’t anything until Cedeira.

It’s a compact Camino which can be done over 2 - 3 days but check the weather
 

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Today was in two parts. The first was travelling on another part of the Camino San Andres, this time from the east. I was surprised to see a few small churches, hardly big enough for a dozen people and yet set up for service.

As you descend from San Andres from the highest sea cliffs on continental Europe you get into the bays and inlets more familiar with the Norte.

The accommodation as has been described over a number of years is expensive for what’s on offer. In Viveiro I’ve tried hotels, Casa Rurals, and restaurants with accommodation. The latter gets you a good meal at least.
 

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Oviedo Cathedral, Xmas market, and Mafalda.
 

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As the title indicates, this was not a Camino - but I found myself on one. Santo André de Teixido from Ferrol.

But I also had the opportunity to see Spain enjoy it’s nativity events which are surprisingly popular. So I will finish off with Xmas lights from Santander and wish you all a wonderful Xmas when it comes and hopefully a more peaceful 2023.
 

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