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From Zamora: Sanabres or VdLP to Frances in Astorga?

frbobs

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Madrid Aug. 2019
Camino Sanabres Sept. 2023
I'm leaving next week for Madrid. Planning to walk the Camino Sanabres starting in Zamora. I'm beginning to wonder if it might be an option to stay on the VdLP, instead of the Sanabres, and walking the Frances to Santiago. I'm hoping for a balance between the amount of people, and the services available (I walked the Madrid in August once looking for solitude. It was a beautiful Camino. However, no pilgrims (solitude...check) ...but also, no water, and no food. I guess I'm getting a bit paranoid, wondering if the Sanabres in Sept might be too isolated etc. I also don't know how crowded the Frances might be in Sept. I'd rather not have to worry about finding a bed or walking in crowds most of the time (which is lovely, when you want to). Hope this doesn't all sound too nit-picky (or whiney, a luxury problem, I know), I am tremendously grateful that I can go on another Camino. Just making myself anxious as I prepare. My gut is telling me to stay with my plans and take the Sanabres, but I figured I'd throw it out to the people with experience. Thanks. Bob
 
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I've walked the VdlP twice and walked the Sanabres both times. September is peak season for the Camino Frances up to Sarria - from Sarria onwards the busiest periods are July and August. To go from the quiet of the Sanabres to the bustle of the Frances would be a radical change of pace. The plus point for doing so is of course the unrivalled infrastructure for pilgrims on the Frances. Far less choice on the Sanabres. Both routes have magnificent scenery so not much to choose between them on that score.
 
Thanks! Appreciate the info. Yeah, I guess it's the possible lack of infrastructure that's making me a little squirrely. Good to have options. Thanks again. Peace, Bob
 
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The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
For me its the Sanabres every time. I walked to Astorga in 2012 only because I was feeling isolated because in those days there were very few pilgrims who spoke English. I was relieved to join the Frances .
I went back the next year and started from Zamora and loved the Sanabres.
Last year after my VDLP from Seville I took the Sanabres once more and it has such varied, beautiful scenery and much more infrastructure than before. great group of pilgrims too.
 
Sanabres. There is enough infrastructure, but fewer pilgrims. I last walked this route in 2016.

Probably the best menu del dia I have had in Spain was in Zamora, Heading out of town just past the tourist info. On the opposite side of the street is a park and that is where the resto is located. It was 17 euros when I last ate there and worth every centavo.

If you are into Romanesque churches, Zamora is for you.
 
I walked the Sanabrés last September starting on the 1st from Zamora, there were maybe about ten to twelve people on route for a few days then some headed for Astorga, for the rest of the way there were only seven of us walking at that time obviously more in front and behind but some days and places it was difficult to find anywhere for an early breakfast or a shop for food as they only opened for a few hours in the day. I really enjoyed the route, some long straight flat stretches through forests but soon the scenery was beautiful with ups and downs and lovely little villages and wildlife, fox, deer etc.
 
Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Last year I started the CF, in Burgos I decided to change over to Zamora to walk the Sanabres (again)The crowds on the CF were too much for me. It is like a paradox : the many people on the Frances don't facilitate the making of contacts with other pilgrims; certainly not relating to the quality of the contacts. ( of course this depends on your personality, mo re or less "outgoing" for instance) The crowds disperse every night over the many accomodatons, restaurants, everyday you see new people.On the Sanabres there were enough pilgrims to socialise, most of them you saw everyday, a sense of companionship developed spontaneously.
A gastronomic advise if you decide for the Sanabres. In Rionegro de Puente, righr across the street from the albergue is the restaurant "Me gusta comer". The first time I stayed in Rionegro I looked inside the restaurant I thougt it was an "upclass" restaurant: neatly arranged tables, with a set of different wineglasses and so on. I concluded "This is not for pilgrims"; only to read a few weeks later that that conclusion was false. So of course I went there last year and it was like I read. The chef there takes pride in serving a gastronomic menu for pilgrim prices. I believe the menu cost less than 15 Euro and it was fabulous.
 
Sounds like the Sanabres is the preferred choice. As I said, I was leaning in that direction anyway, and it was the path I chose months ago when I decided to go back. Just getting anxious as it gets closer. Thank you all so much for your help, ESPECIALLY the culinary advice. Peace, Bob
 
I’ve walked the Sanabres twice as a finale to both the VdlP (2018) and the Levante(2022). The Sanabres wins hands down for me over the Frances. Plenty of opportunity for solitude and beautiful ‘naturaleza’ but with adequate infrastructure to support your journey. I’d recommend the Sanabres
 
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We walked the Sanabrés in February 2019 and saw very few pilgrims but the way was beautiful and we had no trouble finding accommodation. One night we stayed off stage and the chef at the only bar in town was suddenly ill but we managed with G&Ts and potato crisps and lived to tell the tale.
Enjoy whatever you choose.
 
No lack of company or infrastructure in 2012, probably even more of both now. And it’s a spectacular walk .
 
The Sanabres starts in Granja de Moreruela where the two paths diverge. I walked the Sanabres route from there in September 2019. I would not say that it was very quiet as a lot of the albergues filled up in the evenings. I had no trouble getting a bed as I always arrived early. However I remember some albergues were putting mattresses on the floor for late comers.
 
Get a Spanish mobil number + data while on the Camino
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Thank You. That seems to be the consensus. Peace, Bob
 
I'm thinking of doing a shorter camino in November. Anyone have experience on the Sanabres in winter? Is it pretty doable?
Thanks!
 
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