Here some notes of my Voie du Piémont.
They resume (in a more technical way) my stages on that camino.
I could not do it with fewer words, sorry.
On the other hand, I spared out all the nice little things that happen to you when you are on a camino, when you walk through countryside and meet up with fellow humans...
But it would just have been toooooo long to post here.
At the end some pictures and a very short resumé for those who do not need to know more details about the stages.
FatmaG
From Narbonne-plage (the Mediterranean) to Hendaye (the Atlantic) via the “Voie du Piemont”
On a sunny 8th of July, I leave my home here in Brussels to go by train to Narbonne in the south of France. The Camino I want to walk this year is in France, la Voie du Piemont.
I won't have time to reach Santiago – so I am looking for another arrival point attracting to me...:
from the Mediterranean Sea to the Atlantic Ocean.
In my bag :
A guide book from 2002 (very preciously lent by Sillydol --- thank you again!)
Other (more actual) descriptions of this Camino found on the internet.
http://vppyr.free.fr/vpp-index-etapes.php3
http://www.ariege.com/cheminstjacques/index.html
http://www.aucoeurduchemin.org/spip/-FRANCE-.html
Equipment of course (later on, only in Saint Jean Pied de Port, I learn it is all in all 12kg – much too much for such a little person as I am...)
For the first time: 4 maps (1:100.000) and a compass --- quite a good idea.
And my mobile phone (very useful as well to find accommodation) even if I hate the idea of having it with me.
Narbonne: due to a train delay, I miss the last bus to Narbonne-plage (runs only during summer!)
So I hitchhike... Finally, about 20pm I arrive in Narbonne-plage.
Camping area 20€ - very expense and no reduction
Take away
Stamp in the Tourism Office (in the morning)
9 July : Narbonne-plage - Narbonne
No waymarking. I followed the internet description via the “Plateau de la Clape”. Had to improvise more than one time (even the best description is only approximate...), but finally arrived “at destination”... A mere wonder...
It was hot. No water sources on the way. No café or restaurant.
My bed: CIS “centre international de séjours” in a 5-bed-room just for myself, breakfast included, for 16€...
To do: On the plateau de la Clape, you can go up to a small mount and the view must be mere beauty – but I had not the courage...
10 July : Narbonne – Gaussan
By the way, I decided to take the “Chemin des Abbayes” - a way following ancient monasteries instead of heading directly towards Carcassonne.
No waymarking – trying to follow the description. At some point, just after having left the outskirts of Narbonne, I was lost (too many VTT routes, orientation on the map via the high-voltage-lines)...
Later on, the description is easier to follow.
Abruptly, the “Abbaye de Fontfroide” is ahead... To my surprise, it's just a touristy and not an inhabited place any more.
Snack at the restaurant.
Visit of the gardens – you can see the whole building together with a huge number of tourists...
From Fontfroide to Gaussan, I followed the road to reach Gaussan and it's former monastery.
Now, an English family lives there. They rent rooms. I got a bed and a breakfast for 35€. Special price for pilgrims because normally, it's much more. GREAT place!
11 July Gaussan – Lagrasse
A very long and very hot day.
No waymarking. Some hesitation.
A small town on the way to find some fresh water and food.
In Lagrasse, the monks welcome me very nicely. But no accommodation for women in the Monastry. I am allowed to put up my tent in the Olive grove.... (very biblic place) but the soil is so hard, I am not able to get my tent pegs in the soil..
Finally: another 2kms to the little camping ground above Lagrasse.
After a shower, I return to the small town to find something to eat.
The nice looking restaurant “Les Remparts” kindly tells me that the only table left is for 4 persons and they prefer not to give it to a single person.........
Snack.
12 July Lagrasse - Montirat
Waymarking !!! I follow the “GR 36 Variante”. “Variante” is quite important because the regular GR 36 takes another – much longer – way to reach Carcassonne.
Again a small town where I find a coffee automate in a supermarket.
The day is long. The way is long.
First trial for accommodation in Monze. 50€ pilgrim's price. I continue.
I continue to Montirat – there used to be a gîte d'étape (for groups); it's no longer in service. But the owner, Gérard let me use one of his places not in service any longer. THANK you, Gérard!
My dinner : some nuts, an apple.
That night : a big big thunderstorm!
13 July Montirat – Carcassonne
A short day. Only about 12 to 14 km...
Waymarking the GR36 Variante again.
Muddy. Cold.
Abruptly: Carcassonne!
My bed in the former Monastry – just opposite to the “Cité of Carcassonne”. For about 27€, a room for myself, dinner and breakfast. Recommended to make a reservation!
Carcassonne is worth a longer visit.
And Soeur Françoise's welcome is great!
14 July Carcassonne – Montréal
Jacobean way from now on waymarked as GR 78 (& some concrete piles with “Voie du Piémont”)
No café, snack open till Montréal. (National Day in France!!!)
Nice little camping ground in Montréal. I stop there, no place in the Monastry of Prouilh close to Fanjeaux because of tourists in great numbers.
A restaurant. And a bar. A bakery. All is fine.
15 July Montréal – Camping à la ferme some km after Fanjeaux
The little bakery in Montréal : The best croissant I ever ate in France!
Some starting difficulties to find the waymarking out of town...
Few accommodation possibilities on that part, you have to choose either long or short walking days. My day is a short one.
Camping ground “à la ferme” about 3 km after Fanjeaux. Nicely placed, but far from the town. Do your shopping before!
In Fanjeaux: cafés, snacks, a “superette”, a bakery and a tourism office
Accommodation possible in a monastery.
GR waymarking still.
To see some very strange little villages : houses are built in a circle “en circulade”, they protected the centre of the town, the church... they were somehow the “battlements” of the place.
16 July Camping (Fanjeaux) to Mirepoix
Pyrenees are approaching.
Gorgeous sigths, gorgeous day!
Still white and red GR waymarking.
! Arriving just before Mirepoix, one yellow flesh is misleading (it's a sign for the next morning leaving the city)
NB very often by nowGR signs and Jacobean signs – but if I remember well, they follow exactly the same paths and ways!
From Fanjeaux to Col du Portet d'Aspet: there is a small guideline for the etapes crossing l'Ariège.
Bed: either private pilgrim's accommodation or camping ground.
Medieval Mirepoix is very touristy so no problems with finding all you need.
17 July Mirepoix – Belfort
Rain! Difficulties to be motivated and to start.
Finally, a late start – a hard day through continuous rain and over muddy ways...
To see: Beautiful church in Vals! It is a “église rupestre : the entrance hidden in the rocks; remarkable wall paintings. And a little café in the museum
My bed: on the ground of the former “Camping à la Ferme”-kitchen. The landlady kindly let me sleep there (5€)
Dinner: nuts and perhaps an apple.
18 July Belfort – Pamiers
Again a short day.
I start mixing up more often different alternatives (GR, arrows, internet description, maps) – the best thing for that “Voie du Piémont”.
My bed: a small pilgrims' albergue in the bishop's residence. Marie-Thérèse, the hospitalera, prepares a succulent dinner.
Plenty of shops and cafés.
19 July Pamiers – Mas d'Azil
This morning: I see the first pilgrims – they are on bicycle, the pleasure is quite short...
Mixing GR and short cuts via the road at some point.
Nonetheless: a long long day till Mas d'Azil.
Bed: A pilgrims' albergue next to the Priory of the Protestant church (donativo).
A premiere: we are 5 pilgrims in the albergue that night!
Pilgrim's menu in 2 restaurants in town.
And cafés, bakeries, supermarket and a market.
NB Mas d'Azil (the French name witness this) was used to welcome people and grant them asylum; nice little historical detail...
To see: very huge cave arch (with a road through it)
20 July Mas d'Azil – St Lizier
Another long day.
Some (10?) km later, after a very steep climbing (the first of them), you reach a kind of “alternative village” run by young French people living apparently in autonomy and +- away from society...
Landscapes and views are stunning. But no café or snack in sight... (or open)
Saint Lizier again has it's own pilgrims' albergue run by the Tourist office of the town. (15€)
A nice place, Saint Lizier. Ancient town of bishops (as Pamiers), and important place in pilgrim's history I'm told.
(some cafés, but the supermarket is downhill and about 1 km to walk)
More accommodation (and plenty of shops) are found in Saint Girons, about 2 kms away (but +- on the Camino)
21 July Saint Lizier – Moulis
A very short stage.
Bed: in the house of friends uphill.
In Moulis: one Restaurant.
22 July Moulis – Buzan
My bed: in the house of a eremite,Tatiana, a woman about my age, not a Eremite in the strict sense of the word. She lives +- in autarcy.
Dry toilet and cold showers 'African style' with calebasse... (all outside of course)
Dinner by Tatiana: a succulent tortilla with herbs of garden. Goat cheese and good bread for breakfast.
NB on the way: A café (bar) in Engomer (off camino – over the bridge)
In Audressein (remarkable wall paintings on the church porch) and Castillon, more accommodation possibilities.
23 July Buzan – Razecueillé
A beautiful long day – finally sunshine!
Great landscapes, small villages.
Cafés, accommodation, food and restaurants in Saint-Lary & Portet d'Aspet (nice accommodation possibility 'Chez Jo')
! From Portet d'Aspet to Razecueillé at least 3 more hours of walking in wild and lonely landscapes!
Mountain area, small foot paths. Be careful specially by rain.
My bed: gîte de vacances in Razecueillé – rent for a real pilgrims' price if free. Josiane (who looks after the house) is lovely.
No shops! Think for food before!
24 July Razecueillé – Génos
Several little cafés or shops on the way.
One nice accommodation possibility is on the pic of a small “mountain” (col des Ares) - run by Dutch people.
My bed: camping site in Génos at a sheeps' farm, very small.
No shop in Génos.
Last shopping in Saint Pé d'Ardet (just some km before)
To see: the church is said to be old and beautiful, but was closed!
25 July Génos – Saint Bertrand de Comminges
A hard day – rainy, foggy, muddy and cold.
I decide to follow my map and not the GR. All right except one moment along a national road, N125 from Galié towards Luscan, with cars and trucks speeding up...
Shops, restaurants and hotels in Loures-Barousse.
My bed: Pilgrims' albergue in the bishop's priory of Saint Bertrand. (call before!)
No shop in Saint Bertrand (quite touristy), but restaurants; but in the albergue, they fill the cupboards and frigde for you. Lovely!
Donativo.
To see: the cathedral and the cloister.
26 July Saint Bertrand de Comminges – Montsérié
From now on till Bagnères de Bigorre: really rural areas without any shops! Be prepared!
What I remember: a deviation of the GR. And mud mud mud...
Nice little villages, but no cafés - except a very posh hotel-restaurant in Nestier.
My bed: In Montsérié, in one of the “gîtes d'étappe” run by the village. Ask the mayor, he might welcome you.
27 July Montsérié - Moulin des Baronnies
The region is called “Les Baronnies” - a beautiful, hilly area with plenty of small roads...
Again, I decided to replace a part of the GR by minor roads – after Lortet (towards Prat and Espèche – finding back to the GR later on)
My bed: in the “Moulin des Baronnies” - a real “gîte d'étappes” not specially for pilgrims but for walkers and hikers!
There: a very small café and shop (little choice: chestnut soup, sweets, wine...)
On the road: no shops!
28 July Moulin des Baronnies – Bagnères de Bigorre
Detour to visit the monastry “Escaladieu” - worth to be be seen!
Mixing up ways again (GR and roads)
In Bagnères, you are welcome as a pilgrim at the local albergue.
All services.
29 July Bagnères de Bigorre – Lourdes
Different possibilities to continue: the GR is (much longer and sporty) or the annual pilgrim's way to Lourdes (easier and shorter).
Or what I did: a mixture of GR and some short cuts by small roads (following my maps).
Still a very long walk. But:
A SIMPLY GREAT DAY – my favourite.
In Germs – very HARD to get there! – there was even a tiny café OPEN!
My bed in Lourdes: “La Ruche”, an albergue specially for Jacobean pilgrims - nice and very friendly place with an impressionating sight.
In Lourdes, you find everything – unnecessary to point this out...
From Lourdes onward – if I remember well – the yellow arrows replace more and more the GR signs...
30 July Lourdes – Asson
Pilgrims' accommodation in Asson – small albergue.
No shops. But a village café serving dinner.
In Lestelle-Betharram: café, shops (?), accommodation possible in the Monastry
31 July Asson – Arudy
Bruges: café, shops, bakery.
My bed: pilgrims are welcome at Priests Pierre home.
Great host, pilgrim himself. One cat, brougth to the house by pilgrims “Tiago”.
Donativo.
Shops, restaurants.
1 August Arudy – Oloron Sainte Marie
Different possibilities – ask Pierre for more information.
Few food supply on the road (in my memory at least)
Oloron: shops, albergue, restaurants – everything.
Crossing with the “Chemin d'Arles” towards Somport.
2 August Oloron Sainte Marie – Hôpital Saint Blaise
Very rural again - few shops (in Saint Goin?)
My bed: pilgrim's albergue in Hôpital Saint Blaise.
2 restaurants; no shops.
Some food in an “automat” at the albergue.
Very nice “sounds and lights”-performance in the little church – all done by the locals!
3 August Hôpital Saint Blaise – Mauléon
Rural.
No shops.
Mauléon: pilgrims' albergue! Warm welcome.
Plenty of shops and cafés.
4 August Mauléon – Bunus
Beautiful day through Basque country.
Possibity to have a drink on the way.
After Ordiarp, 2 possibilites to get further. I took to the left.
In Saint Just Ibarre: maybe rooms. But not that night.
My bed: Camping ground in Bunus - slightly off camino
One shop just 1km before.
5 August Bunus – Saint Jean Pied de Port
Beautiful walk!
Café (& accommodation) at Col de Camia
My bed: “Esprit du Chemin” ! (Reservation needed – it is always full, and now I know why......)
Plenty of everything – Saint Jean is touristy!
6 August Saint Jean Pied de Port – Itzassou
No more waymarking to get to the ocean!
Following my maps (better scale now) and a description by “Gerard du Camino” - you can order it via internet (sometimes found in Saint Jean as well in a shop)
Small roads via Bidarray and Pas de Roland.
My bed: a hotel in Itzassou (my most expensive night!)
7 August Itzassou – Ascain
Partly waymarked as a GR8 – but still following the description of Gerard and my maps.
My bed: Camping ground in Ascain.
Shops, restaurants, bakery, cafés.
8 August Ascain – Hendaye (Atlantic) – Irun (ESP)
Description of Gerard – at the end GR10 till the Atlantic ocean.
In Hendaye: everything.
In Irun: as well everything – even a nice pilgrims' albergue.
To resume a little:
There are plenty of alternative ways, roads, paths..., you have to choose very often your own way!
I was at some point even quite eager for tarmac – due to the never ending rain falls, I was fed up with mud everywhere! So I chose rather minor roads instead of following the GR. If you have a good map (or even a basic one), you can switch quite easily from one to the other.
As this was my third camino, I felt good with this - taking decisions, chosing finally "my" way...
I stayed quite often on camping grounds, but there are more and more pilgrims' shelters found as well. Usually very lovely welcome on a camino which is not overrun by touregrinos...
There are as well hotels or bed & breakfasts. And at least in Ariège you find private pilgrims' accomodation (probably by people who are pilgrims themselves)
The most important information for you: I found every night a shelter!
It was not always easy to find food – you come across quite rural parts without shops.
But you won't starve - if you organise yourself a little.
The “Voie du Piémont” was not really a camino in the mountains, rather in the “foothills” of the Pyrenees, but it was not “flat country” neither! Be prepared to hard and steep parts, and to loneliness.
It is a gorgeous way!
I met few pilgrims but plenty of lovely people!
And felt very welcome as a pilgrim.
Enjoy!
Did you walk through Cathar castles region ? and come across from France into Aragon at Somport? 
). where did you get the info? neither vppyr, au coeur du chemin, or Peter have it.
