@peregrina2000 Hi Laurie and other potential Rota Vicentina walkers. As I didn't end up continuing the 'Live' thread I will post some information here. Laurie - if you want to move the info back to the 'live' thread which I guess you started for me that is fine too.
General remarks:
- The Fisherman's Way is
spectacular! It has the most beautiful, untouched, savage coastline that I have ever seen.
- Signage is
excellent along the Fisherman's way (Porto Covo - Odexeice) and very good along the Historical Way - at least the part that I completed (Santiago do Cacém - Cercal do Alentejo and Odexeice - Cabo do Vicente).
- The Fisherman's Way
is not for those afraid of heights or who are allergic to walking in soft sand.
- The Fisherman's Way is comparable to the Norte from Irún to Bilbao with all the ups and downs but more difficult as you will, at times, be walking for hours in soft sand.
- Inexpensive (<€20) accommodations can usually be found along the Fisherman's Way (Surfers hostels), less so along the Historical Way at this time.
- Do not expect to see many if any walkers. We saw 6 along the Fisherman's Walk (2 German couples and one Dutch) and 2 along the Historical Way (Dutch). In Capo de Vicente we met an Australian who had just finished 2 weeks on the Via Algarviana and was starting the Rota Vicentina. You will see in parts a few days walkers. More are going South to North than North to South - which I did as I was walking towards a friend's house. I also liked having the sun in my face vs. on my back.
- No map or guide needed. I didn't have anything and did just fine.
- Made all reservations through booking.com but it was not necessary this time of year. In the summer definately when all the surfers com.
- Bus Lisbon Airport to Sete Rios bus station €3.50.
- Bus Sete Rios - Santiago do Cacém (2 hours) with Rede Expressos €13.30 (bought online).
- Bus Lagos - Lisbon €20
Stages:
Hostel Santiago do Cacém: Guest House A Cocheira €15
In historical part of town not far from the Igreja. Run by a Dutch couple. As I was the only one and it was cold at night they gave me a private room with sheets and towels (with electrical heater) for the same price as a bed in a dorm.
Historical Trail:
1) Santiago do Cacém- (Vale Seco 18 km) - Cercal do Alentejo 41 km
Only a casa rural in Vale Seco.
Casazul M & B €25 . More a hotel as had a private room and bath with a terrace.
Trail connecting the Historical and Fisherman's Way:
2) Cercal - Porto Covo 18 km
Ahoy Porto Covo Hostel €16
Nicolão the owner is lovely, so is his hostel. He runs it by himself, started 2 years ago. He is from the area and has walked the route so can tell you all the ins and outs. It officially doesn't open till 15.00 but he let me in early and sat down with me, pulled out the map of the Rota Vicentina and gave me lots of tips.
3) Porto Covo -Vila Nova de Milfontes 20 km (lots of sand!)
Hostel: Hike & Surf Lodge €18.
surf.lodge@gmail.com
4) Vila Nova - Almograve (15 km) - Zambujeira do Mar 37 km (more sand!)
Hostel: Hakuna Matata €15
5) Zambujeira - Odeceixe 18 km
Hostel: Hostel Seixe, Rua Nova 17 a (can't reserve through booking) €15
A bit of a mess but a single room (with 2 twin beds). Shared bathroom.
I found Odeceixe a bit depressing and the route into town not terribly inspiring. Had a nice crema de mariscos though.
In Odeceixe the Fisherman's Trail joins the Historical Trail.
6) Odeceixe - Aljezur (15 km) -Arrifana 30 km + 10 km (mistake by taking the wrong GR signs and walked inland along the Via Algarviana). Watch out when leaving Aljezur!
Hostel: youth hostel - Pousade de Juventude €13.00.
Incredible place - modern, new, sheets, towels, complementary shampoo. A bargain for the price.
7) Arrifana - Cappeteira 24 km
Surf & Sand Lodge €12
I stayed with a friend who picked me up and brought me back the following morning
8) Cappeteira - Vila do Bisbo 22 km -(Raposeira)
I stayed at a friend's house in Raposeira just 3 km from Vila do Bisbo.
Walking companion stayed at the Guesthouse in the middle of town. I believe that it was €20-25
9) (Raposeira) - Vila do Bisbo - Cabo de São Vicente 14 km
Didn't sleep here but there is a hostel Pura Vida Dive House in Sagres €20
DO NOT walk into Sagres, road is dangerous.
That's it I believe. Afterwards I took a bus up to Lisbon then on to Porto to walk 4 days along the Caminho Portugues Central (Porto - Tui). It was hailing when I arrived in Lisbon that is why I took the next bus out of the city. I enjoyed wonderful weather up North. The first two days were asphalt and cobblestones, often along dangerous roads without sidewalks. I was starting to wonder why anyone would want to walk this Caminho. Luckily the third and fourth day were beter with less asphalt but still more than I like. And I did have the pleasure of meeting and staying with Fernanda at Casa Fernanda. What a lovely woman, as well as her husband Jacinto.