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Fell off the Tram didn't she.......not my fault

gerardcarey

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
CFx2, CPx1
I guess she’s not the first girl who didn’t like holding bands with me.
I felt one of her fingers ‘give’ as she wrenched her hand out of my grasp.
She squealed and stumbled backwards away from me.
The concertina doors on the lower platform at the rear of the tram had just swished open as it shuddered to a halt.
Out she went.
A bit of a drop and she got sat her on her backside on the footpath. She had automatically put a hand out to support herself as she landed. Shame it was the hand that had been damaged. Must have hurt a bit as she squealed again, tentatively raised the hand into the air, then slowly toppled back and donged the back of her head on the cobbles. Not hard, but quite dramatically. Legs up in the air, her pink bloomers received a right good public airing, and the contents of her large flat shoulder bag got scattered about the footpath.
Not my fault.

I mean there I was having a nice ride on the rickety old number 28 tram, screetching and scrawnching and rocking thru the narrow streets of lovely old Lisbon town.
My Bangladeshi landlord Abdul, who would talk cricket til the cows came home, had recommended it to me in confirmation of the tourist office’s stating that a ride on the old number 28 was on the list of ‘must do’ things for tourists.
“But Mr Carey,” he said, “you must indeed be very careful because there are many pickpocketers. The tram it is a most excellent target for them as it is aways very crowded with tourists.”

Abdul’s pension is just a block or so behind the Cathedral. In the Alfama. A district close to the city centre. A upsy-downsy maze of narrow, winding cobbled streets and dead-end stone stairways, full of interesting little restaurants and the occasional souvenir shop.
I see some nicely renovated buildings. Abdul says the government is purchasing old buildings in the area. They are renovating them in traditional design. Converting them into smallish blocks of two or three bedroom apartments, tiling the fronts and installing little balconies. Very nice they are.

From my open 3rd floor window, in the warm spring evenings, I can hear the sound of plaintive fado. Melodious voices from several restaurants in my section of the Alfama blend and waft thru the streets. They are accompanied by my now favourite stringed instrument, the steel strung ‘English Guitar’. It’s like a cross between an ordinary Spanish style guitar and my previous favourite, the mandolin. Being steel strung it’s more high pitched and crisply melodic, delineates the notes sharply and therefore more clearly. In the Portuguese music that I can hear, the voice is accompanied by this English guitar while an ordinary gut stringed guitar provides the bass accompaniment.

The Alfama district gets a fair bit of attention from tourists. It deserves it. The little restaurants appear to be owner operated with friendly attentive service. The fare is reliably good and moderately priced. Likewise the beer and wine. They deserve this pilgrim’s euros.

So, after Abdul’s confirming recommendation, I head off the next morning. First to my breakfast cafe for my cheese and ham filled croissant and cafe american.
Now I’m wandering the city streets with my little Sea to Summit backpack bobbing along on my back. I feel a strange movement in the centre of my back. I swing around quickly and a chap moves away, quickly crosses the street.
Blimey, even here in the open streets they are!
I guess the backpack with its single zip looks an easy target in the crowded streets. Still, it’s only got a light icebreaker pullover in it. Nothing of value. All my valuables are safe in my money belt down the front of my trousers. The little leather purse that holds the day’s cash requirements is in a zipped pocket. I’m good. I’ll leave the backpack where it is. Might attract some more attention. That’d be fun.

Abdul’s right about the tram. Jam packed it is. From the street, I wave my ticket at the driver and ask him to open the rear doors. He obliges and I clamber aboard. A local chap in a red and white striped shirt moves aside to give me some space.
“Stand here,” he says as he moves, “there is more room.”
“Obrigado,” I reply. I like these Portuguese folks. Very polite and helpful they are.

Off we rollicking go. Uphill, past the front of the Cathedral from where the Camino starts. We are heading for St George’s Castle at the top of the hill. You can see it from all over town. It’s an old fortification built by the Moors and taken by Christian armies during the reconquest.
A great place for a view over the city and harbour I’m told.

I feel the gentlest of touches to my leg. Without moving my head I glance down. A hand is about to enter my pant’s pocket. It protrudes from behind a large, flat shoulder bag that is looped over the shoulder of a lady standing alongside but slightly to my rear. The bag hides what the hidden arm and its protruding hand are up to. To all but me that is.
At the same time I feel movement at my back.
Blimey, two of them.
It’s gotta be the guy in the red and white shirt.
They’re working as a team and he’s the setup man. With his kindly invitation he’d set me into the attack position. He from the back and she from the side.
Polite Portuguese man. Bollocks.

So what to do?
I don’t know why, but after her hand entered my pocket I rammed my right hand in also and grabbed hers. Our fingers sort of interlaced and I gave her hand a right good twist and squeezing. I felt the finger ‘go’ as she wrenched her hand away. She squealed and stumbled backwards towards the now open doorway.
That’s when the bloomers got their airing.
Mr Red and White shirt elbowed past me and jumped to her side to assist.
Some lady bystanders also kindly joined in the attempt to help.
They helped her to her feet.
She commenced pointing at me, then screaming in Portuguese.
I didn’t know what she was saying but was later informed that she was accusing me of pushing her off the tram.
What I do know is that another chap on the tram, a true Portuguese gent, leapt to my defence.
“Pickpockets, two of them,” he pronounced. “Look at his backpack. Open!”
The driver, who had deserted his post to investigate the commotion, nodded affirmatively at me.
“No problem,” he said. “Now we continue.”

Off we lurched again. I merrily waved and called goodbye to the pair on the footpath.
Did they give me a mouthful? Did they what!
The lady bystanders recoiled in horror at the invective.
“They do not like you!” my Portuguese defender happily but needlessly advised. Other travellers leaned out the windows and applauded their misfortune.
I don’t think they would have been all that concerned if I had pushed her off.

My scallop shell!
The swine had pulled it off my pack.
There it was on the footpath in a thousand pieces.
Somebody had stood on it in the kerfuffle.

Ah well.
Got me at the Gare du Nord in Paris a few years ago didn't they.
That makes us one all in this game.
The fat lady hasn’t sung yet cobber.

Regards
Gerard......I'm a Portugeezer
 
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Bravo Gerard!! At Atocha, similar situation, same Sea to Summit bag. Even grabbed her wrist. Alas, didn't have the hand strength to break it! But I DID scared them - 'cause I ran after them screaming for the police - me, at 72. They got nothing. And was able to identify them to the police.
Take care, everyone! And THANKS for another wonderfully told experience, Gerard!! So sorry about the shell!
 
Perfect memento/gift in a presentation box. Engraving available, 25 character max.
Ah, instantly I was back in Lisbon; thanks for that. Unfortunately it won't be real for me for a few more months then 7 wonderful weeks. Thanks for increasing the anticipation and longing.

Obrigado Gerard e bom caminho!
 
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I am still laughing you certainly know how to tell a good yarn
 
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Another wonderful story.....thank you Gerard for the entertaining read whilst I was having my morning break....Obrigado and Buen Camino to a wonderful Story Teller...
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
My favourite Modern Storyteller returns (or begins)....may your way be littered with fabulous tales and may you live to tell them.
Obrigado!

(By the way, if you take the tram first thing in the morning it is nigh on empty - you'll get a seat but no adventure)
 
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Well done from another Brisbane boy. Go Queenslander.
 
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I hope it's the one that got my partners wallet.
 
I hope it's the one that got my partners wallet.
They really are particularly skillful. I met an older chap who had lost 190 euros to them. He was buying his ticket at the tram stop when the money was 'lifted' out of his open wallet before he put it back in his pocket.
It is unfortunate that the Portuguese police/authorities are not putting in place sufficient, or any, extra deterent capability.
Imo this shows a lack of concern for their visitors.
A local lady was very distressed about the situation.
"They are everywhere!" she commented, "and they are not even Portuguese!"
Regards
Gerard
 
Very well told story Gerard and opportune for us heading to Porto on Thursday Thanks. Happened to me in Hong Kong but the guy with his hand in my empty pocket was being followed by two plainclothes policemen who nabbed him.
 
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