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Exploring Route Variants on the Camino Frances: Natural and Historical Highlights

isawtman

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances, 2022
Ice Age Trail, 2014, 2019
Hello Pilgrims

I am wondering about route variants. There seems to be several of them
on the Camino Frances, and I am wondering how good they are. Keep in
mind that my definition of good would be a more natural route instead
of hiking along a busy road, etc. Adding in a great historical site may also
be an attraction for me. I intend to hike to the Ermita de Santa Maria de Eunate, so
that would be the first definite variant I would take. But I want you guys to
convince me on the others.

Since this will be my first Camino Frances, I have heard that first timers should
stick to the main route. So, you could also make the case for the main route.
But, I would like to have the options to take the variant, especially if it's
better than the main route. Or, if I get bored with the main route, or if there
are too many people on the main route, etc.

So, here is the list of Variants as far as I could find on Gronze, etc. There
could be more that I don't know about that are listed in guidebooks, etc.

Major Variants
Valcarios (won’t do unless bad weather)
Montejurra, near Estella
Burgos, river route
Villovieco (Ucieza River)
Calzalla de los Hermanillos
Villar de Mazarife
Hospital De Obigo to San Justo de la Vega
Carracedo del Monasterio
Pradela
Samos or San Xil?

Smaller ones
Huarte near Pamplona
Olmos de Atapuerca
Itero del Castillo
Ledigos
Castrillo de los Polvazares
Ponferrada (carretera)
Pieros to Villafranca del Bierzo
Fonfria

Okay, Pilgrims, let's see what you come up with!!!!!
 
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Burgos river route - your punishment for not taking this route is having to walk the other route!!! That was my least-liked segment of the CF.
 
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The distinction between "main" route and "variant" is not always clear, but it doesn't really matter. In several of those cases, the decision is obviously between a carretera and a less busy route, so it would depend on weather and how your feet/legs respond to the hard surface versus the longer distance. Otherwise, of course you should take the more minor/scenic road. I remember these three, for starters:
  • Burgos, river route
  • Villar de Mazarife
  • But not the Ponferrada (carretera)
You left off one significant decision - what route to take after Villafranca del Bierzo. There are three quite different ones - the valley road, Pradela, or Dragante. That comparison merits a major discussion in itself.

Here are some threads gathered from the Camino Frances forum - all have the tag "route variant/side trip." I've added the tag to this thread, too.

(By the way, I think this new thread is great. I am referring you to other existing resources only because they might add value if you are interested in reading a lot more. It is not meant to suggest the new thread is redundant . It is a good topic and a fresh discussion always provides new information.)
 
Thanks for the Info
Gronze doesn't have the Dragante Route on their website
 
My thoughts:

Major Variants
Valcarios (won’t do unless bad weather) - Can't speak to this. My experience is walking from Roncesvalles.
[added] Detour to Eunate on the Aragones, just before Puente la Reina - An interesting and unusual Romansque church with rumoured Templar connections. Adds an extra couple of kms to the day. It was worthwhile for us.
Montejurra, near Estella - I didn't take this one, either. According to Brierley, both options are primarily natural paths rather than roads. This may take you through forests a bit more, and less villages. You would miss Villamayor de Monjardin.
Burgos, river route - This I did take and would definitely recommend.
Villovieco (Ucieza River) - This is going to meet your request for more paths and less roads. The downside is less villages to stop for coffee or washroom breaks. If I remember we started down tis route and enjoyed it, but took the crossover back to the main route in Villarmentero de Campos because we were hungry for breakfast.
Calzadilla de los Hermanillos - Once again, this route (the "Roman road" is going to have a lot less road walking and also a lot fewer villages/infrastructure. We didn't take it because our distances worked out so that we wanted to stop in Reliegos, and the alternative route would have meant a distance that was longer than we wanted to walk that day. Also, I don't know what this Roman road was liked, but other sections of Roman road on the Camino were very hard on the feet, nicely historic though they may be.
Villar de Mazarife - And, yet another less road walking/fewer villages option (are you detecting a theme here?). And yet another one that we were seriously considering but didn't take because the distances worked out better for us on the main route, with a stop at San Martin del Camino)
Hospital De Obigo to San Justo de la Vega - I'm not sure which you are talking about here. I believe that the main, marked Camino is off road and passes through the villages of Villares de Orbigo and Santibañez de Valdeiglesia before passing the Casa de los Dioses donativo to San Justo de la Vago. Brierley does mark an alternative along the N-120 highway, with no infrastructure, but I can't imagine why anyone would walk that except perhaps to shave a few km off their day.
Carracedo del Monasterio - I've seen this mentioned as an alternative detour, but none of the maps I've seen show the route to it.
Pradela - Out of Villafranca there are three routes. The one beside the road (not directly on it), the Pradela route, and the Dragante route. We took the main route beside the road because we were tired, frankly. It has a small highway on one side, the river on the other side, and you are surrounded by older mountains, like the Appalachians or the Poconos in the NE US. The big highway you can see swooping overhead in huge elevated bypasses. The Padela route has you climbing those nearby mountains to the right and walking along them, further from the highway with the accompanying views. The Dragonte is much more of a detour, to the left. It is longer, with less infrastructure. There used to be significant concerns about the route marking for the Dragante, but I've seen several vlogs recently from people who have walked it without issue.
Samos or San Xil? - Depends on how much you like historic monasteries. If you like historic monasteries, then definitely Samos. If you are thinking "meh" to historic monasteries, then San Xil.

Smaller ones
Huarte near Pamplona - I suspect this about six of one, half a dozen of the other. We didn't take the Huarte route, but then again, we were walking during los San Fermines and stayed in the nice medieval albergue in Trinidad de Arres rather than trying to find accommodations in Pamplona, and the Huarte route bypasses Trinidad de Arres.
Olmos de Atapuerca - Don't know about this one.
Itero del Castillo - This seems worth it only if you are staying in the albergue in Itero de Castillo. Frankly, if I were going to stay in an albergue around there, I'd pick St. Nicolas, which doesn't require you to leave the main route.
Ledigos - There are a few options here which add a bit of length and take you a bit away from the main road, which sounds like something you are looking for. Just be aware that one of them will bypass both Ledigos and Terradillos, so if you want to see them (or were planning on stopping in one of them, that's not the one to take).
Castrillo de los Polvazares - This one I really wanted to take but missed the turnoff for. It looks like a little more roadwalking than the regular path, but from the photos, Castrillo de los Polvares looks like a beautiful village, and one I was willing to detour to see.
Ponferrada (carretera) - There are several ways into Ponferrada. We took the left way, along the road, because it was less steep and my knees were bad.
Pieros to Villafranca del Bierzo - There are two routes into Villafranca. We took the main one to the right, which is longer, and more hilly, and less road. The alternative to the left is shorter, has a bit more road, and avoids the hills. I'm starting to think with my knee that would have been the wiser option.
Fonfria - I am not aware of an alternative route here.
 
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Eventually after leaving San Juan de Ortega on the way to Burgos you have a variant option to take a higher route which veers off to the right and avoids the road into Burgos well before the excellent river route begins. There were few people and a view of Burgos from afar. I loved it.

However, I don't think anyone avoids the walk along the chain link fence surrounding the airport.
 
Yes, you missed that beautiful stone village...gorgeous!
 


I managed that in 2011 with a fellow pilgrim. Unintentionally we found yet another option to enter Burgos...Till today I don' t have a clue...
 
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David Tallan said:
Pieros to Villafranca del Bierzo - There are two routes into Villafranca. We took the main one to the right, which is longer, and more hilly, and less road.
Click to expand...
I loved this alternative and this photo many people take is practically a landmark itself on the way to Villafranca del Bierzo.
 
The Dragonte Route has its own website here: http://trekopedia.com/wp-content/uploads/Trekopedia-Guide-to-the-Ruta-Dragonte-v1.0-May-2018.pdf and it is not listed on Gronze

The Fonfria Route is shown on Gronze but it doesn't look that far away from the main route

O Cebreiro - Triacastela | Camino Francés | Gronze.com

Primera etapa plenamente gallega, por la Sierra de Ancares; avanzamos básicamente por pistas de tierra, siguiendo el eje de la carretera provincial LU-633. Hasta el Alto do Poio, que alcanzamos en un corto y fuerte repecho, los desniveles son moderados pero frecuentes; luego, hasta Triacastela...
www-gronze-com.translate.goog
 
David Tallan said:
Samos or San Xil? - Depends on how much you like historic monasteries. If you like historic monasteries, then definitely Samos. If you are thinking "meh" to historic monasteries, then San Xil.
Click to expand...
I'm neutral on historic monasteries, but I found the town of Samos to be charming, therefore I would choose that route based on that alone, with or without a monastery.
 
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When I walked from Paris to Santiago in 1994, I didn't see a single yellow arrow or other Camino waymarker 'til somewhere between Saint-Palais and SJPP.

The technique for finding your Way in these conditions is similar to the method for discovering Camino variants -- keep moving in more or less the right direction, then choose your exact route according to personal taste or need.

Last year, my Way out of Villafranca Montes de Oca, from restrictions from my disability, led me North out of there, down the Oca valley road, on a Way easier for me for my handicap than that rough but quicker path over the mountain. It was gloriously beautiful -- and in one of the pueblos I walked through, I was informed that they had never seen a pilgrim before, ever, having consulted three generations of their men.

Plus the free beer they gifted me with -- and FAR better, the little girl who, to my humility and for my sins, rewarded me with a rendition of her Camino song that she was practising for school, in delightful reminiscence on my part of my own childhood experiences in Catalonia. And she, and her mother, were clearly delighted that she got to practice it before an actual pilgrim. Pure Camino Magic. And Pure Love.

Hors-piste is incredibly rewarding !!
 
I originally wrote Dragonte, then I saw C Clearly write Dragante and figured I must have been reading too much fantasy lately and misspelled it. So I edited my post to change it to Dragante. I guess I should have trusted myself.
 
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David Tallan said:
I originally wrote Dragonte, then I saw C Clearly write Dragante and figured I must have been reading too much fantasy lately and misspelled it. So I edited my post to change it to Dragante. I guess I should have trusted myself.
Click to expand...
It seems like lots of places in Spain have different spellings. Zaragoza or Saragosa. And then there is Fisterra or Finnisterre.
 
isawtman said:
It seems like lots of places in Spain have different spellings. Zaragoza or Saragosa. And then there is Fisterra or Finnisterre.
Click to expand...
There are five languages spoken in different parts of Spain. Castellano is the common one but there is much interest in different regions in revitalizing their languages. Many places have one spelling in the local language and one in Castellano. (But the Dragante example was a simple mispelling.)
 
The Burgos river route is delightful and did not add significantly to distance.
 
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We stayed a couple of nights at a hotel at the entrance to Burgos, right after rounding the airport. We bussed into town along the camino route for sightseeing. You're most likely not going to miss seeing the sights into town. We ended up walking back around the airport and taking the river route. The resources section of the forum has a good guide for the river route. Link.

We took the Pradela route and enjoyed it. Bring plenty of water. This post has a map and picture to identify the start of the variant. Link.
That entire linked thread is about the variant.

From Santa María de Eunate there are two ways to get back to the Francés (besides retracing your way there). One goes to Obanos and the other to Puente la Reina via the Ermita de Nuestra Señora de Arnotegui. There is a thread on this. Link.

Going to Villar de Mazarife was a treat. Besides the agricultural fields you've seen so much of there were natural meadows.
 
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Camino Chrissy said:
I loved this alternative and this photo many people take is practically a landmark itself on the way to Villafranca del Birrzo.
View attachment 116249
Click to expand...
I too have taken this photo and have it proudly displayed on my office wall.
I have plans for late April to at last get back to my beloved Camino and the final stretch into Santiago and hopefully on to Muxia or Fisterre (I haven't decided which yet)
I would definitely recommend this route rather than the road to Villafranca del Birrzo
 
David Tallan said:
I originally wrote Dragonte, then I saw C Clearly write Dragante and figured I must have been reading too much fantasy lately and misspelled it. So I edited my post to change it to Dragante. I guess I should have trusted myself.
Click to expand...
I used to call it the Dragonte too, and actually prefer that spelling because anyone who has made it up and over that alternative beast has definitely "slayed the dragon"!
 
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Here's my two cents worth:

Montejurra - I skipped the branch that goes left out of Villatuerta, but took the variant that continues along the Montejurra slope after the Irache Monastery. Having also walked the main route, I preferred the variant. It's a nice walk in the woods and on less traveled roads. There's a nice coffee stop in Luquin. Finding the correct path maybe an issue. Just after the Irache Monastery the main route (and 95% of the pilgrims) take a 90 degree right turn. The variant goes straight ahead down a paved road. In short order you walk under the A-12 highway and then arrive at a round-about. Cross the round-about and look for the trail entering the woods. I made the mistake of turning right at the round-about and walked up the hill on the road. A nice local man turned me around and pointed out the trail head. Once in the woods just follow the trail as it moves slightly up hill and along the contour line. After 20-30 minutes you'll come out of the woods to nice views of the countryside. The variant is the same distance as the main route. You will probably we walking alone or with one or two other adventurous people.

Burgos River Route -- it's longer but much nicer walking. The main route is hard surface and lots of vehicular traffic all the way to town.

Villovieco River Route - same comment as Burgos but the differences aren't extreme. The main route along the road isn't bad and saves a few Km. If you want you can change your mind at Villarmentero where there's a short path between the two routes.

Via Romana -- I took the main route, but a friend who walked the Roman road said it was tough going at times. It lacks water and food stops and my friend said the surface is uneven to the point where his feet were sore at the end of the day. The main route is a bit boring, but walking is easier.

Villar de Mazarife -- I found this to be a pleasant walk with a mix of dirt and paved country low-traffic roads. Villar has several albergues (Tio Pepe was nice with a bar and restaurant attached). The only downside was we left very early (before breakfast service) the next morning and found nothing open until Hospital de Orbigo. 15 km before morning coffee is a bit too far for me.

Hospital de Orbigo to San Justo - I took the variant and found it to be a pleasant walk. Only downside was the elevation change up and down.

Samos - I've done both the main route (San Xil) and the Samos route. If you plan your stages correctly the stop in Samos is definitely worthwhile. It's a longer but much more pleasant route without the crowd. The tour of the monastery is interesting

Although not a route variant, I strongly recommend a staging variant after Sarria. Unless you enjoy walking with a crowd plan your nightly stops near the midpoints of the Brierly stages.

Comments on minor variants: I didn't find Huarte (Pamplona) any better than the main route. It adds distance at the end of a long day.
The Pieros to Villafranca by-pass is a more pleasant walk but I found it not well-marked and I got lost a couple times.

Good luck. I think you'll find Camino walking addictive, so don't think you need to do everything your first time.
 
isawtman said:
Valcarios (won’t do unless bad weather)
Click to expand...
Beautiful. A yes.
isawtman said:
Burgos, river route
Click to expand...
Vastly preferable.
isawtman said:
Villovieco (Ucieza River)
Click to expand...
Yes! Much nicer than the senda next to the road (I've done both).
isawtman said:
Calzalla de los Hermanillos
Click to expand...
Yes! Ditto.
isawtman said:
Villar de Mazarife
Click to expand...
Yes! Though I can't make the comparison from direct experience - I've never been tempted by the 'official' route. Why walk near a busy road when there is a really lovely alternative?
isawtman said:
Hospital De Obigo to San Justo de la Vega
Click to expand...
This is the way most people go. I went next to the highway once, when I was trying to cut some kms. I won't do that again: there is no comparison.
isawtman said:
Samos or San Xil?
Click to expand...
Both are really nice. One is much shorter.
isawtman said:
Ponferrada (carretera)
Click to expand...
I assume you mean walking into Ponferrada? If that's what you mean, I've done both ways. It depends on if you need to shave off a bit of distance. The longer way is marginally nicer.
isawtman said:
Pieros to Villafranca del Bierzo
Click to expand...
Again, the longer route off the main road is what most take. Very pleasant.

Absolutely:
C clearly said:
You left off one significant decision - what route to take after Villafranca del Bierzo. There are three quite different ones - the valley road, Pradela, or Dragante. That comparison merits a major discussion in itself.
Click to expand...
And yes, have a look at Pradela.
The Dragonte is strenuous and very adventurous, so I haven't tried it.

There is also a way at Najera that takes you to Yuso/Suso. I didn't go that way but it got rave reviews from some Irish peregrinos I met.

You could also consider three longer 'alternatives':
•The Via Aquitania from Tardajos to Carrión de los Condes (I'd love to walk this!)
•The Camino del Manzanal from Astorga.
There are a bunch of old alternatves in this general area:
•The Camino Invierno from Ponferrada. A real gem.

There is no 'real' camino - each of these three other routes have historical precedents as ways to get to Santiago. So as @JabbaPapa said, quite correctly,
JabbaPapa said:
Hors-piste is incredibly rewarding !!
Click to expand...
 
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Scott Fraser said:
Here's my two cents worth:
Click to expand...
You have provided far more than two cents worth, so thanks! I am benefiting from every contribution.

This has been a a great thread "variation" that has provided concise, detailed information on where our two feet can take us just a bit "off piste".
 
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Scott Fraser said:
a friend who walked the Roman road said it was tough going at times
Click to expand...
Not at all my experience. It was easy very pleasant walking. But yes - if you want lots of company and food stops, this is may not be the way for you.

Scott Fraser said:
we left very early (before breakfast service) the next morning and found nothing open until Hospital de Orbigo.
Click to expand...
Yes, ditto. But the second time I went this way I found that if you deviate a wee bit at Villavante, you'll find excellent coffee.

Scott Fraser said:
It's a longer but much more pleasant route without the crowd
Click to expand...
Funny. I met more people on the Samos route than the San Xil - but then we left very early and from an alberge (El Beso) a few kms after Triacatella, so we had a head start on the mob.
 
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Camino Chrissy said:
I used to call it the Dragonte too, and actually prefer that spelling because anyone who has made it up and over that alternative beast has definitely "slayed the dragon"!
Click to expand...
I call it Ruta Dragonte because it's the correct spelling.

New Guide: Ruta Dragonte on the Camino Francés

We’ve written a mini-guide to the beautiful Ruta Dragonte, one of the three options from Villafranca del Bierzo on the Camino Francés. There isn’t much info available on that option so …
trekopedia.com
 
So then my preferred spelling is correct after all.
 
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Valcarlos is the original route, it is not a variant.
 
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Main thing is the Burgos river variant.
Superb
X
 
I have taken both routes more than once. There actually is a gas station about halfway along N-120. It now has an outdoor tent with tables and chairs. Inside, (self-service) you can get excellent coffee, croissants and typical takeaway refreshments which many service station stock…as well as bathrooms! The route parrallel to N- 120 turns right and meets the other route near the large Iron Cross. if overnighting at Villares de Obigo it makes no sense to return to N-120…but if you want a simpler and shorter way to get to Astorga from Hospital de Orbigo take the route parrallel to N-120.
 
VNwalking said:
The Via Aquitania from Tardajos to Carrión de los Condes (I'd love to walk this!)
Click to expand...


I’ve just posted something about this on an old thread, here:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/something-old-and-new-on-the-camino-francés-via-aquitania-variants.72053/#post-984839

(Sorry, I‘ve forgotten how to do a simple link.)

Perhaps I should have put it in this thread but I searched for Villadiego and found your thread of October 2021.

It refers to a beautiful Cathedral in a village, Villamorón, just south of Villadiego with only one inhabitant remaining. And an article in the Guardian online this morning:

Hopes Cathedral of the Moorland could save Spanish village with single resident

Campaigners plan arts centre for magnificent medieval church to lure tourists and new inhabitants
www.theguardian.com

​

 
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I would suggest taking the variant south of Najera to San Millan de la Cogolla and the two monasteries there. It is the home of the first written Spanish. The new monastery dates from the 1700's, the old from the 600's. dates approxinate. I have walked there twice, highway walking but not bad. The first time I walked there, I was given a gift of the royal suite, the abbot's quarters. Few pilgrims take the trouble to walk there and a few will find a bus. The town is set in a lovely mountain valley.
 
Between cacabelos and villafranca you can turn right towards Valtuille DAriba. Avoids main road walking..

going into Ponferrada there is an alternative taking you off the main road to the left.

one thing of note I rewalked Leon to O Cebreiro last summer. Most of the alternativos that used to be marked are now either signed as the main road or not signed at all. Castrillo for example wasn’t signed as you left Astorga. Only old paint on the road showed the above routes.
 
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David Tallan said:
Montejurra, near Estella - I didn't take this one, either. According to Brierley, both options are primarily natural paths rather than roads. This may take you through forests a bit more, and less villages. You would miss Villamayor de Monjardin.
Click to expand...
Álvaro Lazaga is walking the Francés now, and on his day from Ayegui to Torres del Río, he took the alternative, which doesn’t take you up to Villamayor de Monjardín, as @David Tallan pointed out. It looks like a good way to avoid a few kms of crushed gravel and pavement, you can see his video here.

The gronze map makes it very clear.

For those who don’t know him, Álvaro is on camino 47, this time walking the Francés from SJPP. He posts a daily short video, no ads, no monetization. As he explains it, he does it purely for ”ocio” (kind of a mixture of fun, leisure, and pleasure).

And p.s., he found a bar open in Luquín.
 
Looks to me like Álvaro Lazaga is on a mission to walk variants on this Francés! Today’s video shows his walk from Nájera to San Millán de Cogolla, where the monasteries of Yuso and Suso are. It’s a short 18 kms, so you would have plenty of time to visit the monasteries, though Yuso is closed on Sunday afternoons and Mondays. Suso, the birthplace of castellano, is open every day.

Monasterio de San Millán

Monasterios de San Milán: Suso y Yuso. Patrimonio de la Humanidad. Cuna de la lengua
monasteriodesanmillan.com

Tracks for the walk from Nájera are on wikiloc, though Álvaro’s video shows lots of arrows along the way.

Nájera - San Millán de la Cogolla

Nájera - San Millán de la Cogolla Hiking trail in Nájera, La Rioja (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. Nájera - Cárdenas
www.wikiloc.com

It looks like a very nice off-road walk, has anyone done this?

p.s. And the next day it’s a 25 km walk to Grañon, or shorter if you wanted to stay in Santo Domingo.

San Millán de la Cogolla - Grañón

San Millán de la Cogolla - Grañón Hiking trail in San Millán de la Cogolla, La Rioja (España). Download its GPS track and follow the route on a map. Record your own itinerary from the Wikiloc app, upload the trail and share it with the community.
www.wikiloc.com
 
When I walked this way in Nov 2021, the turnoff from the main route after Irache and the entire path to Luquin and onward to Los Arcos were well marked, so wayfinding should be easier now. I loved this beautiful walk through the woods, followed by great views across the valley.

I found the same thing at the turnoff for the river route into Burgos. A large new sign from the Junta de Castilla y León pointed straight ahead, and only some faded yellow paint on the road surface indicated the left turn toward the river.

Thanks to all who have chimed in! I'm hoping to follow some of these routes when I (fingers crossed) head out on the second half of my Camino francés in March.
 
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Thank you! Just found this and you answered my questions on BOTH variants I'm considering.
 
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