El Salvador started 25/4/2015

[OzAnnie]

I am relaxing in Pajares arlburgue on day 3
I've had the poncho on for days. Some light rain, some very heavy. Rain isn't so much of a problem , it's just that after so much and recent snow (Marissa at albergue) showed me a video of snowing here at Pajares on sat 25/4/15. It has made a lot of the way a quagmire. Up to my hocks in mud and slippery clay coming down mountain to Pajares today.
We were looking at guide for leaving here in the morning and I think it would be much more pleasant to wander along the green slopes if it were dry. Still sooo beautiful though.
This third day was short but felt like 30k! Climbing high to avoid a large snow cover on path was dicey with a backpack. (For me anyway). You just can't put the views into words. Magnifico!
This arlburgue is excellent. Warm and comfortable. Showers hot and clean.
Heaters are running to warm the place and Marissa okayed for us the drape washing over them to dry. Can't hang outside as rain just isn't stopping
Last night stayed in the (not) recommended alburgue in Polodura de la Tercia. As others have mentioned ,not the cleanest but it was very cold ,no warmth., but safe and out if weather . Showers were only cold as boiler not working. Electricity kept cutting out and no lights either. Naturally no one was brave enough to have a cold shower !
It had blankets though and 7 of the 8 beds were taken . We ate in the casa rural close by for E14.
Al the optimist gave me heaps of help on leaving Leon and what to expect in La Robla and Polodura. Al we haven't run into the black dog (yet!)

Oh yes . First night La Robla. A great albergue. Also had heating and fully equiped kitchen . blankets too.
Separate showers and toilets for ladies and men.
So far so good . Not many walking / about 6 in group travelling this past few days and there is also what looks like a Spanish group booking accommodation /approx 8 of them but haven't spotted them walking. Did notice tonight that they also were covered in mud and had had falls .
The water was up and fording the stream saw one of us end up like an overturned turtle . Freezing water. He had to change everything including sox and undies. Another fell in and hurt hands and knees and had many tumbles coming down . He didn't have poles. You really needed poles today.
I was lucky and retained my balance getting over the rocks but I did have poles.
Signage on 1st couple of days was 2nd to none. You would have to be blind to go wrong. This section still signed but different coming down grassy wet slopes to a marked path.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Annie, You're a real trooper! So glad that you are enjoying the Salvador despite the weather challenges. I've never been through before mid June, but I've had my share of rain. If you're a fan of romanesque, or more correctly said, pre-romanesque, the church at Santa Cristina de Lena, a few kms after Campomanes, is stunning. Even if you're there outside of normal visiting hours, if the contact person's phone number is still on the door, give her a call, because if she's there, she will come up to open up for you. A great place to sink into green grass (if it's dry anyway) and be impressed with the surroundings and thankful for your lot. Buen camino, Lajurie

 

[kellyz]

Like Laurie, I'm impressed with your grit on the wet and cold Salvador!
If you feel like Italian, check out Restaurante Yomar in Pola de Lena--go to the dining room/back and get the menu, which was one of the best meals I've had on the camino. The restaurant is owned by a young chef from Bologne, Italy. He was a very warm person, happy to cook for a hungry pilgrim.

 

[OzAnnie]

Thank you. Both ideas noted.
But Laurie i doubt sinking into the lush green grass will happen. Lol. Maybe another time. You can't have it all.
Annie

 

[norelle]

hi Annie!

I'll be following you with interest.......but please have the mud cleared away before mid-June when I start the Salvador from Leon

wishing you a buen camino!

 

[jpflavin1]

Annie:

Today will be another slog day for you as you walk to Campomanes. After that the walk turns more into Pedestrian pathways. It appears you have lots of company. I did not see a single soul in April 2013 on my walk. I hope with the increased Pilgrim traffic they will do something to repair the Albergue in Polodura de la Tercia.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[Al the optimist]

Thanks for the update girl. You have broken the back of it now. Sorry to hear about the weather but to be expected there this time of the year. I stayed where you ate in Poladura. A foot soak in a bath under a hot shower was definitely preferable to the experiences those walking at the same time had in the albergue. I was glad I had treated myself after a beautiful but wet and challenging day through those water meadows!
PS Say hello to Marisa for me. I was there Sunday June 1st last year with 4 girls from Munich (though two were Spanish) and a man from London. As two of the girls were vegetarians she kindly cooked us all a vegetarian meal. She may remember us as the the girls emptied the drinks machine of beer!

 

[peregrina2000]

Annie, keep on trekking. You'll be arriving in Oviedo soon -- I've heard recent bad reports on the Mieres albergue, but there are plenty of private pensiones there, so if you didn't want to do the whole slog from Pola de Lena, you could break it up there.

Like Laurie, I'm impressed with your grit on the wet and cold Salvador!
If you feel like Italian, check out Restaurante Yomar in Pola de Lena--go to the dining room/back and get the menu, which was one of the best meals I've had on the camino. The restaurant is owned by a young chef from Bologne, Italy. He was a very warm person, happy to cook for a hungry pilgrim.

Kelly, thanks for that recommendation, I will definitely head to the Yomar on my next Salvador. Italian food always hits the spot on the Camino, it was there that I finally understood what all my athletic friends meant by "carb loading." Buen camino, Laurie

 

[OzAnnie]

Kelly
I was hanging out for the Italian meal however I asked the hospitalero where it was and she quoted another place. Since I prefer to eat with company if possible , this time I'll go with my companaros.

Al . It was ditto the above why I opted to stay with the company in the little school house.

Joe , yes I was pleasantly surprised to find a few others. The Spanish guy was going to try for Oviedo today or Mieres Oviedo would have been a stretch from Parajes .
There are 4 of us in alburgue in Pola de Lena.

I'm finding it quite a challenge actually . Not sure I can cope with anything harder with my level of fitness. Is the Primitivo similar or a lot harder ? I think the meadows in June ; would have alleviated the ups and downs section,but watching your footing all the time ,and slippery wet rocky sections felt quite dangerous.

Laurie
Stopped for coffee and roll in Canpinares and arrived at Santa Cristina at 1,02
We had passed the lady just as we got up to it. But she didn't say she was heading out. So all locked. I called the number and asked if we could be shown but she said it was impossible at that time. Pity. One of the others had been 5 minutes before us and was shown

We had a nice rest outside though. Those steps going up are killers when you're not expecting then

Also leaving down the hill has cobble stones which slowed me down a lot as wet and mud and flowing water makes it slippery and a little dangerous on that section.

I hadn't thought of breaking the next day at Mieres but may do so depending on all things

Can you recall that highly recommended hotel or hiatal in Oviedo. I was thinking of booking that ahead. Was it Vetusta?

Thanks all

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Annie,
The Vetusta is a favorite of mine. Just outside the old core, in the modernist neighborhood, in an old stone building. Very nice people. Home made pastries in the little bar/cafe. If you're looking for a REAL splurge, check to see what the going rates at the Reconquista are. I know that sometimes at the last minute they have great deals, it's a bit over the top for the average pilgrim, but if you want a splurge and some pampering, that'd be a great spot as well.

Buen camino to you, Annie, looking forward to hearing more. Laurie

 

[OzAnnie]

Al. I meant to add earlier, that I had already left Pajares before I read your msg. Marissa is very friendly

Annie

 

[jpflavin1]

Al. I meant to add earlier, that I had already left Pajares before I read your msg. Marissa is very friendly

Annie

Annie:

Mieres to Oviedo has a few up and downs but not unusually difficult. With no intent to discourage, the Primitivo can be a bit challenging especially if muddy.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[kellyz]

I found the challenges of the Salvador more challenging than the challenges of the Primitivo. Though neither are easy, of course.
I think I stayed in Hostel Arcos in Oviedo. Typical walk up with tiny rooms and hallway bath, but clean and cheapish and near the cathedral.
Does that sound familiar, Laurie? I think you mentioned having stayed there, too.

 

[peregrina2000]

I found the challenges of the Salvador more challenging than the challenges of the Primitivo. Though neither are easy, of course.
I think I stayed in Hostel Arcos in Oviedo. Typical walk up with tiny rooms and hallway bath, but clean and cheapish and near the cathedral.
Does that sound familiar, Laurie? I think you mentioned having stayed there, too.

Hi, Kelly,
Yes I did stay there several times, but recently several other forum members have told me that their prices have gone way up. There's another post somewhere with information on other alternatives. I'll look for it and post the link.

 

[peregrina2000]

here it is -- https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/where-to-stay-in-oviedo.31639/

 

[OzAnnie]

Thank you All
It took longer than expected but got to the cathedral about 5.15pm. Picked up the certicate there for the El salvador

The first section Pola de Lena to Mieres flew by and I thought it was going to be a snack. There came some ups and downs etc after that and when you finally view Oviedo from the too ridge. It takes at least another hr and a half to reach the cathedral.

Having a rest day tomorrow for relieving sore feet.
I like Kelly's answer Joe. Hoping it's close to reality. We've had 2 days without rain. There was still muddy areas today but hoping rain will keep off when I start the Primitivo .
Should be getting a little fitter too.

It feels a wonderful achievement. Some beautiful moments

Annie

 

[norelle]

Well done, Annie!

Enjoy your rest day in Oviedo. I hope you can post about the Primitivo!

buen camino

 

[jpflavin1]

Thank you All
It took longer than expected but got to the cathedral about 5.15pm. Picked up the certicate there for the El salvador

The first section Pola de Lena to Mieres flew by and I thought it was going to be a snack. There came some ups and downs etc after that and when you finally view Oviedo from the too ridge. It takes at least another hr and a half to reach the cathedral.

Having a rest day tomorrow for relieving sore feet.
I like Kelly's answer Joe. Hoping it's close to reality. We've had 2 days without rain. There was still muddy areas today but hoping rain will keep off when I start the Primitivo .
Should be getting a little fitter too.

It feels a wonderful achievement. Some beautiful moments

Annie

Congrats Annie:

I wish you sunny pleasant days on the remainder of your walk.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[peregrina2000]

Thank you All
It took longer than expected but got to the cathedral about 5.15pm. Picked up the certicate there for the El salvador

The first section Pola de Lena to Mieres flew by and I thought it was going to be a snack. There came some ups and downs etc after that and when you finally view Oviedo from the too ridge. It takes at least another hr and a half to reach the cathedral.

Having a rest day tomorrow for relieving sore feet.
I like Kelly's answer Joe. Hoping it's close to reality. We've had 2 days without rain. There was still muddy areas today but hoping rain will keep off when I start the Primitivo .
Should be getting a little fitter too.

It feels a wonderful achievement. Some beautiful moments

Annie

Yes, that last bit into Oviedo can be trying -- the first time I walked it, it really got me. So the second time, I told myself there are three ascents and descents after Mieres, and don't be lulled into thinking you're there when you see the city in the distance! I held out the promise of a rest at the top of each hill and it kept me going.

Enjoy the day in Oviedo, Annie, it is really one of my favorite little cities in Spain. If you like cheese, ASturian cheese is the best in Spain for my money. My favorite is a mild-ish blue cheese, La Peral. Lots of bars serve artisanal cheese plates and they are YUMMY.

Hope you can keep posting from the Primitivo. Fingers crossed for good weather for you, but in any weather, it's a beautiful camino with great places to stay. If you stay at Bodenaya, I'd love to hear how Alejandro's replacement is doing in the albergue. Buen camino!

 

[Al the optimist]

Well done Annie. Enjoy your rest day and I wish you good weather for the Primitivo. I had intended to continue as you last year but the onset of my heel problem stopped me.

 

[amancio]

good job Annie, enjoy beautiful Oviedo; you have done the hardest part of the Camino, the Primitivo is a roller coaster up and down, but there are no severe long hills other than A Lastra (and the descent to the damm in Grandas de Salime).

Enjoy BEAUTIFUL and green Asturias, amiga, keep posting from the Primitivo, please

 

[OzAnnie]

Thanks guys.
You are all such good support. I appreciate the input immensely.
So all in all , for me the hardest day was the shortest one , to Pajares but also the mosy beautiful

 

[peregrina2000]

good job Annie, enjoy beautiful Oviedo; you have done the hardest part of the Camino, the Primitivo is a roller coaster up and down, but there are no severe long hills other than A Lastra (and the descent to the damm in Grandas de Salime).

Enjoy BEAUTIFUL and green Asturias, amiga, keep posting from the Primitivo, please

Thanks guys.
You are all such good support. I appreciate the input immensely.
So all in all , for me the hardest day was the shortest one , to Pajares but also the mosy beautiful

I just can´t help jumping in to say, TAKE THE CAMINO TO LASTRA. The route is one of the most beautiful sections. You will get to a café in Paradavela where the owner will encourage you to stay on the road. Do not listen, it is one of the most beautiful parts of teh Camino with as Amancio says, a short steep ascent to the top. See the discussion here: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/my-camino-primitivo.20578/#post-159299 (specifically post #57 and thereabouts) (Actually, that thread is from my dear friend SusannafromSweden, who walked the Primitivo a couple of years ago. She wrote in to the forum very regularly and I think there is a lot of good information in that post. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[OzAnnie]

Laurie
I haven't got guide in front of me. Left it in room. Is Lastra on ist stage Primitivo

I am now enjoying gratis a museum of archeology in Oviedo. Excellent
Then catching bus to Naranco sites after.

 

[peregrina2000]

Laurie
I haven't got guide in front of me. Left it in room. Is Lastra on ist stage Primitivo

I am now enjoying gratis a museum of archeology in Oviedo. Excellent
Then catching bus to Naranco sites after.

No, Annie, its a day or two before Lugo. It´s on the stage from Fonsagrada/Padrón to Cádavo, I think. Enjoy your stay in Oviedo, where did you end up staying? Buen camino, Laurie

 

[OzAnnie]

Hmmmmm. Tried municipal e5 Beds ok but had at least 20 bunks available that night. There was another roomed locked. I think 12 slept there. Bathroom had 2 showers both with clear glass door. ! So if lady , you'd have to lock the bathroom while you showered. Only 1 toilet and that was in bathroom. I would not want to be in hurry for bano!
Clothes line didn't dry clothes and nowhere warm to dry them.
Today we are in Casa Cecilia. E10 per night. Average , small ,but she said she wash and dry a small load of washing for e10. So getting that done.
Paint on walls is bad. Comes off on clothes and mochilla!!
Splurge still to come.

 

[jerbear]

Thanks for all the input and info. I will be heading out on the same trek mid june, coming up on the madrid. So You are my pull stars. thanks.

 

[OzAnnie]

Trying to put a couple of pics up. Naranco site. But only Woody Allen.seems to be here. I'll see what happens
I think I have then now.
There is a small fee of 3euro to see Naranco bldgs A guide unlocks and gives a clear explanation in Soanish. I got the gist. Lovely spot.
I didn't get up further and get pic of Cristo.