Easter "wave" on Camino Francés?

[eamann]

A question to those who have experience of pilgrim habits and statistics on the Camino Francés.

God being willing, I hope to walk this spring to Santiago along the CF, starting out in mid-April from Somport. I am trying to choose a "good" date for my departure.

Would I be correct in thinking that Easter is a time when many pilgrims set off from SJPdP? Would I also be correct in hoping that if I were to arrive at Puente la Reina a week after Easter I could avoid the "wave" of pilgrims who had left SJPdP just before or immediately after Easter Sunday and so have an easier time finding accommodation? Easter Sunday this year is 9 April, I plan to start in Somport on Tuesday 11 April and would probably arrive in Puente la Reina a week later on Tuesday 18 April.

I have checked out previous threads about Easter, but they are mainly about Holy Week, processions, etc..

Thanks for your comments!

 

[J Willhaus]

A lot of Spanish pilgrims over Easter so I think they are likely to start in Roncesvalles, but some just start where they can or closer to Santiago.

 

[stevepjq]

I lived in Barcelona for a few years and many of my Spanish colleagues would walk portions of the Camino each Semana Santa. In other words, they may have walked 3-5 days starting in Roncesvalles several years ago and then the following year, they picked up where they left off to walk another 3-5 days - and so on. So, I do not believe that they are likely to start in ANY particular town. Also, many of my colleagues often visited their relatives in their native town and walk stages from there. Bottom line, I think you will see Spanish perigrinos all over the Camino in equal numbers. Lastly, my observations from last years Camino during Semana Santa, families (Mom, Dad, children) would tend to walk from town to town without backpacks either because they used transport companies, or relatives would meet them via car at the end point for that day.

 

[wisepilgrim]

I imagine that this wave will be much more focused on the last 100km. Although it is common for many albergues to open for Easter, I would not consider it a wave for the majority of the Camino as any boost in numbers will only last a week, whereupon the domestic pilgrims return to work.

 

[Rick M]

I have walked over easter four times. My experience matches what everyone else has already posted: It's a ripple of pilgrims, not a wave - although I have never been anywhere near Sarria that week. What I HAVE experienced is that this should be treated like any other long weekend in terms of accommodations in larger centers. The city places will book up with holiday makers, so make sure you have a reservation if you are going to be in a city over the easter weekend.

 

[J Willhaus]

I remember in the book "The Great Westward Walk" (translated into English by @Rebekah Scott) the Basque pilgrim, Bolitx, gives an account of how there were suddenly a lot of pilgrims at Easter and then they all disappeared again. I think he was in and around Burgos.

 

[Vacajoe]

We arrived in Roncevalles on Easter Sunday 2019 and were surprised by the LACK of pilgrims! You should be fine given that everyone will have returned home on April 10.

 

[eamann]

Many thanks to all of you who took the time to share with me your experience of Easter on the CF. From what I have read, I feel confident that 11 April is a good time to start out from Somport.

 

[isawtman]

I wish St Jean Pied de Port and Roncesvalles would publish their daily numbers like Santiago does.
Then you can see exactly what's going on.

 

[JerryStroebele]

I was shocked, SHOCKED, (pleasantly so) by the low numbers of pilgrims on the Camino between Burgos and Leon last Semana Santa. Buen Camino

 

[Ianinam]

We arrived in Roncevalles on Easter Sunday 2019 and were surprised by the LACK of pilgrims! You should be fine given that everyone will have returned home on April 10.

Easter Sunday 2019 was April 21st. That day was full house, with 216 pilgrims in the albergue.

 

[DuaneS]

I walked the camino in 2017 during easter. The albergues and hotels were so full one day that there were about 30 of us pilgrims with nowhere to go. I literally called every adjoining town and all hotels, even five stars, were packed as well. Eventually they opened the gymnasium so all of us could sleep on the floor. It wasn't a fun experience, but it was better than sleeping outside. So I think you have to be a bit careful over the eastern holidays as it can be difficult to find accommodation.

 

[Vacajoe]

Easter Sunday 2019 was April 21st. That day was full house, with 216 pilgrims in the albergue.

We were surprised since we had heard the rumors that they’d be no beds for late-arrives, Mass would be packed, dinner would be impossible to get, etc. Instead, even the latecomers had a place to sleep, food to eat, and a spot for the blessing. The lack of pilgrim crowds is relative, but we thought they’d be a lot more than the capacity for the village to handle (Zubiri had this problem, actually). From Somport in mid-April? It’ll be a ghost town!

 

[Vacajoe]

Many thanks to all of you who took the time to share with me your experience of Easter on the CF. From what I have read, I feel confident that 11 April is a good time to start out from Somport.

Be ready for possible snowy weather (or clear skies and sun!) as that region is in transition during mid-April. If the road gets closed at the pass, you can start walking from Canfranc Estacion. Also, definitely plan to stay at the donativo in Canfranc PUEBLO, a newer facility just starting it’s third year. I hear it has the best hospitaleros on the Camino...or so we like to think when my wife and I are volunteering there! . It really is a lovely stay in a very small Aragon village.

 

[Annw]

Last year we were on the last 115 km the week before Holy Week, arriving in Santiago on Palm Sunday. We had booked ahead so I don't know the lodging issues at that time; I can report that leaving mid-morning, after many pilgrims had already departed, I very often had quiet, solo walks, punctuated at times by groups of youngsters with chatting and music, something that seems to bother some pilgrims but which I found a lovely part of the experience.

Then in Santiago we experienced the colorful parades and rituals of Palm Sunday, along with the Mass and Botofumeiro. So from my view that was a perfect time to walk!

 

[Jaime Carrollo]

If I had the fortune to be on the Camino Frances for holy week, I would not miss the processions in Leon. If I had the fortune to be in Spain for holy week, I would not miss the processions in Sevilla. But that is just me.

 

[RENSHAW]

I have been thinking about this for a whole day so I have decided to post. It is probably negative though I have more experience than most , Puente la Reina has a fantastic albergue but during Easter the car park is full with 30 cars , think for yourselves . The family Ladies cook for those that are walking and one cannot get near the kitchen. It is a long weekend away?
In Logrono in another year I was in the queue for the albergue and when the doors opened it was a bun fight and I had two Italian ladies as companions and I literally pushed their bottoms with my foot and catapilitated them though the the riot so they could get a bed. I waited and got the last bed.
To be more positive I was at Ganón for Easter Sunday and that was incredible , please look at my previous posts.

 

[Isabelpilgrim]

A question to those who have experience of pilgrim habits and statistics on the Camino Francés.

God being willing, I hope to walk this spring to Santiago along the CF, starting out in mid-April from Somport. I am trying to choose a "good" date for my departure.

Would I be correct in thinking that Easter is a time when many pilgrims set off from SJPdP? Would I also be correct in hoping that if I were to arrive at Puente la Reina a week after Easter I could avoid the "wave" of pilgrims who had left SJPdP just before or immediately after Easter Sunday and so have an easier time finding accommodation? Easter Sunday this year is 9 April, I plan to start in Somport on Tuesday 11 April and would probably arrive in Puente la Reina a week later on Tuesday 18 April.

I have checked out previous threads about Easter, but they are mainly about Holy Week, processions, etc..

Thanks for your comments!

I've walked 2x over Semana Santa, once to Santiago, and once on the Meseta. It slows down after Easter, by comparison, bigger villages and cities will likely have processions leading up to Easter, which is something I found worth experiencing, if not as elaborate as in Southern Spain. Can get very loud at night. I stayed at the main albergue in Leon on Good Friday, the last procession began and ended there, went on all night. The Monday after may or may not have holiday closures. More crowded from Sarria, though admittedly, I haven't been in Navarra during Holy Week. Things change, but I will second that in the past more Spaniards tend to start in Roncesvalles vs SJPP, in general.

A question to those who have experience of pilgrim habits and statistics on the Camino Francés.

God being willing, I hope to walk this spring to Santiago along the CF, starting out in mid-April from Somport. I am trying to choose a "good" date for my departure.

Would I be correct in thinking that Easter is a time when many pilgrims set off from SJPdP? Would I also be correct in hoping that if I were to arrive at Puente la Reina a week after Easter I could avoid the "wave" of pilgrims who had left SJPdP just before or immediately after Easter Sunday and so have an easier time finding accommodation? Easter Sunday this year is 9 April, I plan to start in Somport on Tuesday 11 April and would probably arrive in Puente la Reina a week later on Tuesday 18 April.

I have checked out previous threads about Easter, but they are mainly about Holy Week, processions, etc..

Thanks for your comments!

I think many pilgrims who have a short time often do the last bit to end up in Santiago for Easter. It might pick up in SJPP after for people trying to avoid that rush. I've walked for Lent before from Pamplona to Santiago, and for Easter, also Pamplona to Santiago, but was in Astoria for Easter that time. Crowded in Mansila de Las Mulas and Leon, but otherwise not that busy.

 

[JerryStroebele]

I've walked 2x over Semana Santa, once to Santiago, and once on the Meseta. It slows down after Easter, by comparison, bigger villages and cities will likely have processions leading up to Easter, which is something I found worth experiencing, if not as elaborate as in Southern Spain. Can get very loud at night. I stayed at the main albergue in Leon on Good Friday, the last procession began and ended there, went on all night. The Monday after may or may not have holiday closures. More crowded from Sarria, though admittedly, I haven't been in Navarra during Holy Week. Things change, but I will second that in the past more Spaniards tend to start in Roncesvalles vs SJPP, in general.

I think many pilgrims who have a short time often do the last bit to end up in Santiago for Easter. It might pick up in SJPP after for people trying to avoid that rush. I've walked for Lent before from Pamplona to Santiago, and for Easter, also Pamplona to Santiago, but was in Astoria for Easter that time. Crowded in Mansila de Las Mulas and Leon, but otherwise not that busy.

Si! Carrion des Condes, April 15 last year, fantastic and moving:

 

[Richmond Gardner]

I imagine that this wave will be much more focused on the last 100km. Although it is common for many albergues to open for Easter, I would not consider it a wave for the majority of the Camino as any boost in numbers will only last a week, whereupon the domestic pilgrims return to work.

I can say, from experience, that Semana Santa is a crush on accommodations well outside the last 100 k. I had to walk short sections from Logrono to Belorado, without reservations, in 2017.

 

[Isabelpilgrim]

I can say, from experience, that Semana Santa is a crush on accommodations well outside the last 100 k. I had to walk short sections from Logrono to Belorado, without reservations, in 2017.

I was on the Meseta,. Between Boadilla and Astoria in 2017 for Semana Santa, I must've timed it right. I got into Leon early on Good Friday, and got a bed, but later in the day the city was packed. I was late getting to Carrion de Los Condes on Palm Sunday, I got one of the last beds in the albergue but it was after 6 pm.

 

[Vacajoe]

Everyone should note that the OP specifically asked about crowds while walking the Camino Aragon two days AFTER Easter. While observations of other regions in Spain and prior to Easter are interesting, the answer to her specific question is simply that Aragon after Easter will be very empty and quiet, like it is every week on that path

 

[wisepilgrim]

I can say, from experience, that Semana Santa is a crush on accommodations well outside the last 100 k. I had to walk short sections from Logrono to Belorado, without reservations, in 2017.

Right, but what I was trying and failing to express is that it is a local wave.

At the start of Semana Santa all of the Spanish pilgrims dash off to their favorite starting spots. Think places like Pamplona, Logroño, Burgos, León, Tui, Sarria, Lugo, etc. Bigger cities with transport connections to their home, logistically sensible places.

The wave starts there, at the start of the holiday, and moves west. If you start, or are passing through Logroño a day or two after the wave begins you won't find much of a difference.

The same applies for common ending places with transport hubs, as everyone scuttles back to work.

 

[dougfitz]

Would I also be correct in hoping that if I were to arrive at Puente la Reina a week after Easter I could avoid the "wave" of pilgrims who had left SJPdP just before or immediately after Easter Sunday and so have an easier time finding accommodation?

I walked from SJPP in 2010, arriving in Pamplona on Good Friday. I didn't know about the 'Easter wave', and so rather than avoiding it, I was enjoying the company of many enthusiastic Spanish pilgrims. Many seemed to leave at Puenta la Reina, and from Los Arcos to Sarria, it was a very different experience. I suspect if you do as you are planning, there will be fewer people on the CF.

 

[Anamya]

If I had the fortune to be on the Camino Frances for holy week, I would not miss the processions in Leon. If I had the fortune to be in Spain for holy week, I would not miss the processions in Sevilla. But that is just me.

I'm trying to understand if "I would not miss" means 1) you would do everything in your power to be able to see them, or 2) that you have seen the processions and meh, doesn't miss them.

I was in Cordoba and Sevilla last year during the Semana Santa. Took us +- 50 minutes to walk 100m from where the taxi dropped us to our hotel. Similar thing in Granada and Sevilla - we had to plan our walks very well to not get stuck somewhere because streets were closed.

It was incredible to see the processions, but once in a lifetime was enough for me. High respect for those who like it though, the effort into making and carrying those floats is insane! Who would want to walk for hours, kilometers, on a religious route and... oh

In relation to the original question, we walked the Portugues over Easter in 2017 and saw a similar effect that others mentioned about the Frances: bubbles of pilgrims here and there, starting at different points and trying to make the best out of a long weekend. We enjoyed it a lot.

 

[Kathor1]

Thanks for explaining this so well, @wisepilgrim and @stevepjq. There is no "Easter wave" that moves along the Camino. There is peak demand for beds at certain days in certain towns during the week before Easter and the Easter weekend. For example on Easter Saturday in SJPP but not on Easter Monday. Or on Maunday Thursday and Good Friday in Burgos but not on the Monday and Tuesday earlier during Semana Santa.

Not only Spanish peregrinos but peregrinos from other European countries walk short sections for 5 days or one or two weeks at a time. Then they return home and may or may not take up walking the following year and during the same month. They start and end in major transport hubs, like SJPP, Pamplona, Logroño, Burgos which are also popular destinations for short breaks for other travellers around Easter. Remember: The "full Camino walker" is a minority on the Camino Francés.

The reason for this: Public holidays around Easter time allow you to be away from work for a reasonable time where you have to use fewer days from your annual leave than at other times.

Fact: Good Friday is a national public holiday in all of Spain. Maundy Thursday and Easter Monday are regional public holidays in some regions (autonomous communities) of Spain - either one of the two or both. Good Friday and Easter Monday are public holidays in numerous European countries - again one of the two or both.

One year I timed our section walk so that we would arrive in Burgos for the Good Friday procession. The town was packed, all but really all hotels were fully booked, and during the last few days of walking towards Burgos it was noticeable that there were comparatively more Spanish pilgrims in the mix than "usual". In two other years, I walked with friends from work and each year we chose a time around Ascension / Whitsun because the Thursday and the Monday are public holidays for them and they could add them to the days they had to take off work.

If you want to avoid a peak day in a peak location you can easily avoid it by starting a day or two earlier and in any case, it is soon over and behind you. Is it too early to say Happy Easter?