The gasolinera was closed for the New Year yesterday, so no idea if it would have been open for them that early this morning.
I stopped for a coffee and pintxo of tortilla in one of the Arneguy cafes this morning. Two tables full of middle aged or older gents having what looked like big platos combinados with cheese for afters. Accompanied by Rioja and Ricard. Impressive stuff for 9:40 am!
Not much sun at Ibañeta today. What we North Britons would describe as 'dreich'.
Hunting season, I suspectI stopped for a coffee and pintxo of tortilla in one of the Arneguy cafes this morning. Two tables full of middle aged or older gents having what looked like big platos combinados with cheese for afters. Accompanied by Rioja and Ricard. Impressive stuff for 9:40 am!
I find this kind of thing a bit sad. Walking for nearly four hours in the dark..,.,WHY?
Maybe they're walking in a way that's easeful for them, who knows? Certainly none of us out here know enough to pass judgement.
When I walked my first Camino the refugios were almost all unstaffed and curfews were virtually unknown. There was no menu peregrino at typical UK hours either. So if you wanted an evening meal it was unlikely to start much before 9pm. A bit of a challenge after a 30+km day. I got into the habit of eating my main meal at lunchtime, resting for an hour or two, and then walking for a few more km before stopping. Some refugios didn't open before 4 or 5pm in any case. A very different pattern from the way things have evolved recently.It’s too bad the Albergues force foreign values…
Even at home, I usually eat dinner around 9 o’clock or later.
If it were me, I would have preferred not being awakened by someone leaving that early.
I am not sure it is "foreign" values as much as meeting "hikers needs". Most people rise earlier in the day to hike shortly after sunrise to avoid the heat of the day - so by 9pm hikers are usually exhausted.It’s too bad the Albergues force foreign values…
A very similar question could be asked about why any of us walk the Camino at all. Come to think of it, the question could be asked about much of what we do in life.
I too, have never walked a Camino in the dark, but have left a few times in early morning when the sky begins to lighten up before the sun peeks out and they were vey trnquil and special; no headlamp was needed.
Purely guesswork on my part but I wonder if the young men had been reading a guidebook or a forum like this where people are often advised to start very early to tackle the "monumentally huge" challenge of walking to Roncesvalles. Something which is wildly exaggerated in many reports I have read over the years. Most people walk the Camino Frances in summer months where avoiding the worst heat of the day certainly makes sense. Sunrise is also much earlier in mid summer. I wonder if they even considered the difference in day length in the middle of winter or understood that even someone of my substantial girth and geriatric knees can make the 24km via Valcarlos in daylight with a couple of hours to spare even on one of the shortest days of the year.
Yes, thank you for the heads up, I just edited my remarks to remove the "to slow them down..."Ultriea, onward, to each his(her, them) own journey. Fondly, pilgrim sandi
Foreign values?I’m so glad I’m a night person. I finally fit right in in Spain…
And because of it’s position in the time zone, where the sun rises late and sets late, the Spanish schedule is actually quite appropriate.
It’s too bad the Albergues force foreign values…
Even at home, I usually eat dinner around 9 o’clock or later.
As my late brother once said to me, “there’s nothing Pious about waking up early”.
It’s strange too, both my parents were really morning people, but both my brother were Definitely nice people.
On my first Camino we left our accommodation in SJPDP at 6.45am, we were expecting the day to be hot, walked around to reception to drop the keys in the box in the door, and found all the other keys already in there.
Arrived at my next destination well before the albergue opened...
Oh my! We’ll, “dude”, Obviously that little clown face next to my foreign values comment signified that it was a joke…Foreign values?
I hear judgement. Perhaps one should keep to themselves. None of your business or anyone else for that matter when pilgrim should start their walk.
I gotta say that's probably my only real gripe about albergue living. I totally get and have no problem with the snoring, the flatulence, the pilgrims getting up early, the chatting during siesta time just to name a few, but I will never understand the logic behind sitting in the dark, packing inventory or whatever one's backpack in the dark when just a short distance away is a common area where one can turn on the lights and do the task more efficiently and less invasive to people sleeping in the bunks.
I never understood this either...all their belongings strewn over a dusty floor...it totally "floored" me.
I wondered if they live that way at home, too.
LOL... I started as the Spaniards were finishing up their all night partying in almost every city - leaving around 6:30am I passed a lot of drunken teens/young adults meandering their way towards home. Was quite entertaining.
Perhaps that is why many albergues insist that one leaves one's boots outside. They also ban bugle playing.
Me also. My work nights I usually eat between 7:30 PM and 8:30 PM because I get up at 4:45 AM for work. But days off, I eat between 9 and 10 PM. I'am ready for the Spanish "Time Zone" of eating.I’m so glad I’m a night person. I finally fit right in in Spain…
And because of it’s position in the time zone, where the sun rises late and sets late, the Spanish schedule is actually quite appropriate.
It’s too bad the Albergues force foreign values…
Even at home, I usually eat dinner around 9 o’clock or later.
As my late brother once said to me, “there’s nothing Pious about waking up early”.
It’s strange too, both my parents were really morning people, but both my brother were definitely nIght people.
I don't think the issue is necessarily when they started their walk. The issue is when they got up in a shared dormitory and how much (if at all) they disturbed other people. If you get a dozen or more individuals of varying demographics and cultures in the same place at the same time, you will get disagreements. The trick (and it is a very simple one) is to learn how to accommodate others. By the way, getting up late is going to seriously incommodate the hospitaleros who typically have 4 hours to clean and tidy the albergue top to bottom, have lunch, go shopping, relax and attend to their personal business before the next batch of pilgrims arrive.
With that sort of attitude I think your going to have a great Camino! Ultreia
There's not much accommodation open just now. If they went beyond Roncesvalles their next option would be Zubiri - another 21km further on. Given the ascent to Roncesvalles that would be a very ambitious first day.
I don't remember if I ever walked 4 hours before it got light but in my 2016 Camino we certainly tried to be on the road before 6, when it was still dark. Why? We were walking in July and August in Spain. It behooved us to try and get the majority of our walking done before the hottest part of the day set in. It seemed common sense to do that at the time.
I left the albergues every morning about 5 AM. I didn't intend to but I usually sleep about 6 hours and lights off we're at 10 so I found myself staring at the ceiling in the morning dark about 4-4:30 AM range. So I just rolled with it. I planned ahead to limit making noise when I left in the morning. I found those predawn walks under the glorious stars and watching the sunrise was simply awe inspiring. It made my Camino and would definitely do it again when or if I get a chance to walk again. The only morning I didn't was in Burgos at the municipal albergue they didn't unlock the doors until 6 AM.
Instead of an audible alarm - this is when something like an apple watch comes in handy - if I need an alarm at any time while travelling and staying in rooms with others who are not part of my family - I set my apple watch to gently (and quietly) vibrate on my wrist. A rather nice way to wake up, actually!
Yes, it is hard when your biological clock wakes you up too early. I try so hard to "sleep in" - but I just can't do it! I was often awake at 4 or 5am on the Camino. But I did stay silently laying in my bed until someone else started getting up and rustling around in the room. Usually that happened at 6 - so once they getting out of bed - I quickly grabbed my stuff and left. I didn't want to be the "first" person to wake people up.
I thought walking under the stars were magical, the solitude, the alone time was like I was all alone with my conversations with God, crowning with the glorious sunrise. I absolutely, absolutely loved it
I tried really hard to be quiet, bottom bunk nearest to the door. I sometimes put my backpack outside the door and kept my papers, electronics, money etc in a small daypack in my bunk. I would wake up grab that and my bed liner and sneak out as best I could. I hope I didn't bother anyone. I did my best anyway.
I can see your points. But perhaps I should point out that this was nearly four hours before the sun rose. Which would have been hard to spot anyway on a day with 100% cloud cover and persistent rain for most of the time. Not ideal conditions for nocturnal sightseeing.
I just found I was awake anyway as I just woke up. In the beginning leaving in Roncasvalles rather then just lay there in the dark or maybe make noise and light trying to find something to read I thought I might as well just get going. I found if nothing else I loved the solitude. I do admit I didn't see some things as well in the dark so if I walked again I would choose different towns to start from to see somethings I missed it being dark. One of the most haunting one I saw was the mass grave memorial before Burgos in the dark.
I didn't start the Camino with that intent, but because I just wake up after around 6 hrs which was around 4:30- 5, it left me with lay in the dark, get out a light, possibly make noise and read, or get going. Like I said it was a amazing experience walking in the predawn dark, and yes there was mornings the stars weren't out, it was misty rain one morning. I did miss somethings in the dark I would love to walk again timing my stops differently to be able to see in the daylight, but on the other hand there was things in the darkness that was almost ethereal. I walked past the civil war memorial after Villafranca Montes de Oca, the monumento de Los Caidos, the Spanish civil war memorial under which is mass graves, it took me a few minutes to realize what it was and it felt absolutely holy in the darkness. I could almost feel the pain. I sat a few minutes in the darkness just soaking up all of feelings from them. Arco San Anton was another thing I saw in the dark that felt absolutely haunting. I want to see that and stay at the albergue the next time if I can.
I personally see no reason why you should have to defend yourself for leaving early as long as you are respectful and have found ways to be as quiet as possible. It is no fun to be wide awake and feel you must lay in bed for hours longer waiting til the lights go on at 6:00ish.
Some of us have biological clocks that are set this way. I wake up at 4am almost everyday. Before I retired, I would be at the gym by 4:45am and finish my workout by 6:00 before eating breakfast and heading out to work. I would have to be under the weather to stay in bed past 6am. But I don’t find it “sad” if someone else needs to sleep late. There is also a peaceful silence in the silent darkness which I enjoy. No crowds as well!
. I did not see others until Salamanca where my wife, Ellie, joined me for the remainder of way to Santiago.Thank you for this beautiful description. This is why I like waking in the dark… the solitude, stillness and silence are spectacular. I feel one with the earth, in a way not to be encountered during daylight. I would encourage others to try.
Yes - but beware, the result if you're wearing shorts is an important need to apply sunscreen to the backs of your legs at a very early hour!! Several days I wondered why I was getting red legs when I was applying sunscreen then realised it was about 7am in the morning early walking!!
Panic on board..didn’t think of that..of course….dumb, dumber, dumbest?
No such thing as a dumb question. Venturing my first Camino I had a moment of pure panic stood on the Eurostar platform. “What if I didn’t like it. I couldn’t go home. Everyone would know…”
