I wonder if pilgrims like me keep going back because they realise that they have missed out on a few things the first time? Then, when they find those things, they keep going back to recapture the simplicity, the freedom and euphoria brought on by a rush of endorphines resulting from hard, daily exercise.
My first Camino fulfilled all my expectations. But then, I didn't have many - and I got what I wanted out of it. It was going to be a breeze! I was an ultra-distance walker and marathon runner and was fitter than I'd ever been. I planned a 27-day Camino, aiming for 30km per day, and did it in that time - some days only walking 20km but a few of over 40km. We made few friends but at that pace out-walking most of them and finding new faces at every albergue. I didn't fancy the traditional albergues and if the CSJ guide said, "No running water, no beds, or no electricity - I said "pass" and sought out a room or a pension.
It was a long hard slog but I felt that I had achieved my goal, had enjoyed the landscape and the history. What more was there? When I got home I said 'never again! Done that, been there, got the t-shirt."
I held the first St James Feast day celebration in my home the following year. People got all dewey eyed and nostalgic reminiscing about communal meals around the table in lamplight; about sing-a-longs and special blessings (one where they even washed the pilgrim's feet!), about quirky and eccentric hospitlaeros serving pilgrims in basic albergues, some in old ruins, some in ramshackle shelters.
Whaaaat? It sounded as though they had walked a completely different Camino to me.
So I went back two years later in 2004. I had a few expectations this time as I was in search of that side of the Camino which I had missed. But I started in Paris and finished in Pamplona - then drove accross the Camino and walked the last bit from Sarria. There was practically no "pillgrimage tradition" on the via Turonensis, and Sarria to Santiago was a Holy Year fiesta!
So I went back three years later, having done my homework, read every post on this forum, asked members for a list of their ten most memorable albergues - not the most up-market or modern.
I took two friends along to walk a 37-day Camino. We stayed in every little, basic albergue on the
Camino frances including Manjarin with dear Tomas-the-Templar; the Italian, pot smoking Rastas at San Bol, and the slightly eccentric Marcel at Albergue Vegetariano in La Faba. I loved them and discovered that most memorable were the most basic, sleep on the floor, dinner by lamplight albergues which I had avoided the first time. I watched pilgrims faces as they had a look inside and then made a quick exit - off to find the nearest hotel - and thought, I've been there, done that, I hope they come back and try it this way one day!
Conrad Rudolph described the basic albergues as 'the soul of the Camino' and they probably are the closest modern pilgrims can get to the old pilgrim shelters of the middle ages. Even if you don't want to stay in too many albergues, try to experience at least a few of these very hohest, traditional places that are unique to the Caminos.
To to cope with the exponential growth in numbers the Camino has become more commercialised. When I next walk a Camino on my own, I will choose to spend a few nights in my favourite, small albergues and the rest will be in private rooms, casa, or even a hotel or two.