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Detours to Javier Castle, Leyre Monastery, and Foz de Lumbier

peregrina2000

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I have had several conversations on various threads about these options, and I thought I’d put it all in one place for anyone who is contemplating the same thing or who might be enticed to contemplate the same thing once they see how amazing these destinations are.

I also want to preface this by saying that I know that there are many who prefer to stick to the camino and don’t have any interest in the detours that I typically come up with. That’s fine, I get that, but for anyone who is more like me…. here goes.

From Ruesta on the Aragonés, the next official Camino Aragonés destination is Sangüesa, and the Camino passes through the town of Undúes de Lerda, for a total stage of about 24 km with about 600 m elevation gain. A fairly manageable stage for many people.

North of the Camino near Undúes de Lerda are two important historical sites - the Castillo de Javier, and the Monasterio de Leyre. Wikiloc showed me how easy it is to branch off and visit them both.

From Ruesta to Javier Castle, it is about 18 km, shown on this wikiloc track (it leaves the camino somewhere after Undúes de Lerda). The track goes all the way back to Sangüesa from the Castle, so only the first part of the track will be needed to get to the castle.


From Javier Castle to the monastery, it is about 11 or 2 km km.


Some would do that 30 km in one day (like the younger me); others would want to do it in two days to have time to visit the castle on the day from Ruesta and then have plenty of time to visit the Monastery the next day. I have visited the monastery twice and can say is a 5 star attraction, at least for those who like ancient churches. I really want to WALK there, though!

From the monastery, it’s easy to either take a trail which takes you back to the Aragonés at Sangüesa, or if you are like me and have already been in Sangüesa, you can go directly from the monastery to the entrance to the Foz de Lumbier.

Here’s a trail that would go from monastery to Sangüesa back through the Javier Castle.


Monastery to Sangüesa would be about 17 km. Then you decide whether to take the Lumbier alternative or not.

If you don’t care about going through Sangüesa, you can walk from the Monastery directly to the entrance to the Foz de Lumbier in two ways.

The difficult way goes up across a ridge, and then down to the entrance to the tunnel.


That is about 17 km and involves a difficult climb with chains, total elevation gain about 1100 m.

The route that @Vacajoe (I think) and others have walked goes from the Monastery through Yesa, and through Liedena, and then on to the start of the gorge trail. That route is here:


That would be about 18 km from the Monastery, through the gorge, and to the town of Lumbier. The tracks I linked to went further on to Monreal (for a total of about 37), which my current self would probably not do, but a stop in Lumbier is recommended by many on the forum anyway.

Once in Lumbier, you will rejoin the official camino at some spot before Izco and would have a 23 km day from Lumbier to Monreal.

One other thing to throw out — if you haven’t been to Sangüesa (and it does have a nice Romanesque portal on its church), you can easily get from the monastery to Sangüesa (17 km) and then 10 more to Lumbier. That means that going from Leyre through Sangüesa would be a 27 km day to Lumbier, while the off-camino route would be 18.

And one last thing - there is a ridge trail that goes from Leyre to Lumbier but does not go through the gorge.

Choices, choices! I am putting all of this into one post, more for myself than anything so that when I am actually ready to contemplate these choices, all of the information will be in one place. Right now I am in the dreaming stage, but this is my hope for 2025!

Thanks to @Vacajoe and others for their help focusing me on this alternative. I would love to hear from others with different ideas about this segment!
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
I wish I had this information when I walked the Aragonés in 2022. I tried going to Foz de Lumbier with the information on Gronze then, but I followed the arrows instead of going straight out of Sangüesa and missed it. I visited the Foz de Lumbier this year though on my own, and it was well worth the detour and worth the visit. Still have the monastery and castillo on my bucket list though. Thanks for the info and many others will appreciate it!
 
Yesa is between Javier and Leyre so there are other places to stop between the two places. (There's an albergue in Yesa.)We stayed at one of the smaller hotels in Javier 2 years ago and in 2018, Phil stayed at the church run facility in Javier for a hospitalero encuentro.

We have also stayed at the hotel at Leyre and it is very nice.
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Be aware that in March there will be tens of thousands of pilgrims participating in La Javierada, a romeía (mini-pilgrimage), that goes to the Castle of Javier in honor of Saint Francis of Javier. Many will pass through Sangüesa. There is a two day romeía and a one day romeía a week later.

There is a fairly long article on the Javierada on the Spanish Wikipedia.
https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Javierada
 
Be aware that in March there will be tens of thousands of pilgrims participating in La Javierada, a romeía (mini-pilgrimage), that goes to the Castle of Javier in honor of Saint Francis of Javier. Many will pass through Sangüesa.
Good tip, thanks. I hope to walk in late spring/early summer and expect there will be a lot of tourists, but I would like to avoid a romería.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Thanks @peregrina2000 I have been planning to walk tha Catalan and Aragonés beginning in April 2025. Your suggestions sound really attractive. Having completed these caminos before would you or others have a comment about how busy the routes might be in April/May?
Many thanks for all your research.
 
I managed to combine Leyre and the Foz de Lumbier, but skipped Javier. Went from Santa Cilia de Jaca to Berdún, where there was a quite nice hostal (and where pilgrims coming over the Pyrenees by Puerto de Palo on a Roman road used to arrive). Berdún to Leyre along the north side of the reservoir, and I think I was helped by the reservoir being abnormally low, so able to walk partly on the usually submerged route. Then from Leyre to Sangüesa vía Lumbier (excellent lunch) and then the Foz, and on to Sangüesa. Using Mikel Olivares' wikiloc. Loved the Foz. And Leyre.

 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
I managed to combine Leyre and the Foz de Lumbier, but skipped Javier. Went from Santa Cilia de Jaca to Berdún, where there was a quite nice hostal (and where pilgrims coming over the Pyrenees by Puerto de Palo on a Roman road used to arrive).
Oh, great, another option. Thanks, Alan!

I had decided not to consider the “north side of the reservoir route”, but your post suggests that I should.

Santa Cilia to Berdún looks like a lot of off-road, nice and short, 16 flat kms.


Berdún to Monastery is a long 40-ish kms. Relatively flat with a 300 m ascent at the end.


There is a Casa Rural in Sigüés, La Maestra, pricey but it’s better than nothing to break up the stage from Berdun to the Monastery pretty evenly.

Javier and its castle are easy to add to this routing if you want to go to Sangüesa, because the walking route from Leyre to Sangüesa goes through Javier. Then from Sangüesa take the route to the Foz that so many forum members have already done and raved about!

So that’s one more option for folks to consider. Glad I have so many months to mull it over.
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
At the Sangüesa albergue in 2019 the hospitelera told us pilgrims that there was a nearby early bus that would take us part way to the Foz de Lumbier. If you have a lot of walking to do that day this could save you somewhere from an hour to two hours of walking.

I did a bit of searching for this bus this afternoon and it appears to be the ones going between Sangüesa and Pamplona. Google Maps shows a Sangüesa bus that stops at a gas station outside Liédena. Here's info on the busline:


Use this information at your own risk but the little I have here may save you some search time on your own.
 
I took the bus from that gas station several years ago. My reason was I had not gone to an ATM in Jaca to top up my cash and I was basically running on empty. There are no ATM on the Aragones except in larger towns. At any rate, and it may have been on a weekend, I'm not sure; the scheduled bus never showed up and at one point I was ready to walk to Lumbier after waiting for the bus to show up. Suddenly a bus showed up from the road from the north and I was able to go to Pamplona to find an ATM. I will admit, I saw an ATM from the bus window in Lumbier but at that point I was exhausted after my overly long wait at said gas station.
 
We have also stayed at the hotel at Leyre and it is very nice.
I see on the monastery website that the hotel is closed for renovation. I can't find too much else about it on the internet, but see that the RFP for the first phase of renovation just went out this June. So my guess is that this will not be an option for sleeping for a few years.

So it looks like Yesa would be the best place to sleep, what a shame. I remember going to the nighttime service (completas?) and it was incredibly atmospheric at nighttime.
 
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