I know it's a year later, but someone may find this more recent (May, 2010) information useful. I just got back from walking this variante by myself, from Figeac on May 3, and returning from Rocamadour towards Cahors, but cutting into the Vallée du Célé (at Béars) to Saint-Cirq Lapopie, then to Vaylats and then Cahors on GR 65 (I had walked from Le Puy to Santiago in 2008).
- There is no walking guide of this GR46. The Miam-Miam-Dodo portion covering this portion is now available as a PDF free of charge online (
http://www.chemindecompostelle.com/vari ... madour.pdf). It does not have walking notes, but its accommodation listings are accurate and the distances are all correct. I walked that GR36/46 with no difficulty; it is well marked in both directions, but it is very desolate, few walkers, and little accommodation.
- Coming out of Rocamadour, the first available accommodation is 26 kilometres in Labastide-Murat, but a new Chambre d'hote has just opened this spring in Montfaucon (Clos des Roses, 06-28-56-79-47, e-mail:
regina11111@yahoo.fr), cutting that distance to 20 kilometres.
- I agree with the original poster's comments on some treacherous terrain coming into Rocamadour along the Alyou river; on one crossing, I slipped off a rock and went in to my knees, and found out that another walker did the same thing on the same rainy day that we walked in. In retrospect, I wish I had had someone with me for that portion rather than walking alone. But it might be wonderful on a sunny, warm day...
- Also, bring walking sticks; a Japanese doctor slipped down an embankment over 3 metres and broke his wrist and wrenched his knee just outside St Cirq Lapopie. Sticks saved my bacon more than once.
- There are some (3) incorrect distances posted on those official FFRP sign posts between Pasturat and St-Cirq-Lapopie; again the Miam-Miam-Dodo distances are accurate.
- Definitely smart to walk in from Figeac in 3 stages, leaving a third stage from Gramat to Rocamadour of only 12 kilometres, bringing you easily into Rocamadour by lunch time, which gives you the entire afternoon to explore the pilgrimage destination; tours are given by volunteers at 2:00 pm, on a donativo basis. Mass at the nuns' Cloistre is at 6:30. And you can then leave the next morning to walk the 20 klicks to Montfaucon.
- The Office of Tourism in Rocamadour (there are two) is very helpful. Made all the calls for me and confirmed there was no guide to GR46 and no closer accommodation than Montfaucon, though a campground opens May 15 in Lacomté, about 8 km before Montfaucon, if you want to camp.
Hope this helps.